Caley Jim

Small correction, not UV cured, just light at the blue end of the spectrum. It causes the chemical brake-down of one of the components which then acts to initiate polymerisation. Early ( 1970's) resins were UV cured, but blue light is less harmful. Jim BDS (ret)

And you don't have to watch repeats on TV! Jim

You can always brighten the photos with Microsoft Office Picture manager. Jim

What's wrong with these test bits? That last shot of the field wall captures the essence of the prototype well. just the right amount of weathering, lichen and moss. Jim

The plastic commonly used for dentures is (was?) acrylic which requires heat to polymerize it. There is a chemically cured version, used for repairs, but neither are really suitable for injection moulding. It is also rather brittle in fine section and is not affected by the solvents used for styrene. Many years ago I produced a couple of kits for CR wagons in cold-cure, using moulds made from silicon based impression materials, but it was a laborious process, not suitable for other than private use. Having said that, i'm out of touch now after 10 years retired and things can move rapidly in the field of dental materials. Tim Watson can tell you more. I suspect this plastic, while OK for training purposes, would be totally unsuitable for the harsh environment of the mouth. Jim

IIRC from my days in Dental school, they used hickory pegs inserted in gold plates to push instanding teeth forwards. The hickory absorbed moisture from the saliva and expanded, thus exerting gentle pressure. As far as vulcanite is concerned, I never used it, but in the early 70's we used to get the occasional broken vulcanite denture in for repair. This was done by keying a section of acrylic into the break. Jim

In the dental context, 'appliances ' means partial dentures, obturators, removable orthodontic appliances,etc. Perhaps you mean dental instruments? Jim

You don't know what your missing, Alex!! Jim

You might also like Tim Watson's building undergoing demolition on Copenhagen Fields. Jim

CR water tanks were made from panels 2ft square, though of a different pattern to the ones in your photo. If you have an idea of the overall dimensions of the tank,you can work out the size of the panels. Jim

and a bank of stay alives!! Jim

I had to look twice at at that second last shot to make sure it wasn't a real building!! Just looks better and better. I think a virtual standing ovation is due to the Chairman for his skill. Jim

She must have been from Glasgow. The usual greeting when visiting in that city in the east is 'You'll have had your tea?' Jim Edited to add that that drill hall is absolutely fabulous. There are not sufficient superlatives to adequately describe it!

I like the scotch derrick crane, but it seems to be somewhat devoid of an operating mechanism at the base of the pillar? Jim

That photo of the 'Newbattle' wagon just goes to show what a pigs ear they made of the end door hinges! They should be round hoops that go right round the heavy cross member and are attached to the door on the inside. Jim

I haven't seen the article to which you refer, but could I respectfully suggest you try thinning the paint a little so that it flows more readily and will give you a more even line. I've only ever used thinned enamel with a bow pen and there is a fine line (sorry for the pun!) between having the paint too thick, stopping it flowing freely, and having it too thin in which case it flows too much and floods outwards. The speed of moving the pen comes into it too. HTH, Jim

As I've posted elsewhere , we have little snow, but very cold and it's a struggle to try and keep the greenhouse above zero. Jim

We had a couple of centimeters on Tuesday, which has partly gone, where the sun got at it. As the temperature here has gone down considerably - -6°C at 10:00 this morning - what is left is frozen hard! Jim

I haven't done much in the way of productive modelling for a few weeks as I'm currently working on a drawing for another footbridge for the Dunallander layout. this time it is long gone and we only have a few photographs with it in the background, so quite a bit of estimation is involved. Jim

Provided it's underside is well clear of the muffs I can't see any drawbacks, Valentin, but then I'm not familiar with that chassis. Jim

Or to dismiss it without carrying out a close inspection to see what exactly is causing the problem. Otherwise you might unwittingly repeat the error. The fact that there has been some minor movement in back to back's should never be discounted. I recall a one time member of our group (he since moved away) whose Association kit-built 08 jumped every time it went through a crossing. Close observation showed that it happened when the centre wheels were going through. The back-to-back on them turned out to be very slightly tight, but it was enough to cause the wheels to ride up on the wing or check rail. Opening them out by a tiny fraction solved the issue. Jim

The only way to travel is by The True Line. Sorry she's not JA or pre-raphaelite, but you can't have everything! Jim

I would make the new section slightly over long at each end and then trim back the rails until it fitted. If you're doing it in situ, then just do that with each rail, though of course then you only need to trim one end. For aligning lengths of track when laying them I either just do it by using the Mk1 human eyeball or with a roller gauge positioned across the joint, so that it holds each rail. Jim

Did he appear on a 'wanted' poster? Jim

Again, you're a bit vague, William. Are we talking about a replacement section of track, rail or baseboard? The simple way in either case is to measure the bit you take out and make the new bit the same length,or the appropriate length depending on what the problem is. Jim