digger62

Hi I have a DCC layout with around 60 locomotives and until now have been happy to just run them with minimal tweaking to CVs as I am only just coming to grips with which ones do what to the characteristics of the running. Rather than sit each locomotive on a test track and individually check each CV variable and record it on an Excel spreadsheet is there some software that will interrogate it and display all the relevant CVs on my PC. I'm not looking for computer control, but just to form a database of my rolling stock so that I can better understand and alter the CVs. As always many thanks for any help you can provide. Regards Mark

Many thanks for the prompt responses. I'll check Jamesed's suggestion and failing that I'll go with Peterm1 and check out Digitrains. Mark

HI I've got a Bachmann Next18 decoder (36-567) which I believe is made by Zimo and is the same as their MX618N18 and I was wondering if I could fit a stay alive to it. There appear to be some solder pads along one side, but I can't find any images explaining what they are for. I'm sure they're out there I just can't see them! As always many thanks for any help Mark

Hi Andy Apologies I've only just got to this. Many thanks for the useful diagram. Mark

Many thanks for that. I'll give the sponge a go and make sure that the body is firmly located. I'm guessing that the mechanism is ok as it runs fine without the body.

Hi I've just got some of my N Gauge stuff out of storage and all runs really well apart from a Graham Farish Class 31 (371-111). It is really noisy running in both directions, but when I take the body off it runs quietly. There doesn't appear to be anything rubbing (although I can't be sure). I don't think it is just the body acting as a sound chamber, but has anyone else had experience of this? As always many thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give. Mark.

Thank you both. I'll explore both of those options.

I've got some N gauge rolling stock and a 4 X 2 board that I thought that I would put some track down to run them on. I fancy the Kato track as I tend to keep chopping and changing the design and this appears to be fairly robust and the points offer electrofrog or insulated along with the point motor built in. As I will have to store it on it's side when it's not in use I wondered if anyone had come up with a way of attaching it to a board, but with the ability to take it up if needs be. I can't see how it could be pinned and did wonder if double sided tape might work, but not sure if it's strong enough to hold it. Any ideas would be gratefully received. As always many thanks in advance for any advice. Mark

Thankfully mine is ok, but maybe Hornby should be holding these back to replace all the damaged ones winging their way back to them! Also those that have paid silly money on auction site must be gutted.

Thanks for that. I'll have a look and check it. Worth bearing in mind.

Many thanks for that. It's settled going for the ordinary set.

Many thanks for that. I think I'll go for the ordinary set which seem to be a good purchase.

Hi I'm looking to get a rolling road and am looking at the DCC Concepts one and notice that that they also do a premium gold version. Does anyone have any views on whether it's worth the extra investment or not? As always many thanks in advance for any advice. Mark

Thanks for that I'll give it a go. If I hear it creaking I'll give up before I damage anything. At least it's working and looks good at the moment so I don't want to ruin it!

I've got a Hornby Schools class loco (R3311 Westminster) and I'm trying to get the body off the loco to give it a service. I know this sounds simple a simple task, but I'm struggling. I've removed the screw as indicated in the instructions and tried to ease the chassis down from the front, but it's not having it. Am I missing something. I don't want to pull too hard as there is a lot of delicate parts that look as though they'd be quite happy to come away given the chance. My only other though is to take off the underframe to look at the gears from underneath, but I'm not sure if that will help. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. As always many thanks in advance Mark.

Just to let everyone know that I fitted the decoder yesterday and it works really well. I upgraded the speaker and I'm really pleased with it as I haven't tried anything like this before. Normally just plug in a decoder and away I go so this has given me the confidence to try other projects. A big thank you to all who contributed and helped me to complete it. Mark

Thanks Izzy and RAF96. It's a class 47 and I've plugged the TTS decoder into a class 31 set and matched the address, acceleration and deceleration to the decoder in the class 47. I take what you say and will not bother with the resistor. Does that mean all I need to do is connect the red and black power pick up wires on the TTS decoder to the ones on the motor decoder? Once again really appreciate your kind help and advice. Mark.

Many thanks for your very informative response. I'll have a think and decide which way to go.

Hi. I'm looking to fit a Hornby TTS decoder to a Heljan loco and understand that it is likely to fry the chip. However I have read that you can use the TTS decoder to piggy-back another decoder so that it just provides sound and the original powers the motor and lights. My question is around the resistor that is required on the TTS decoder to provide resistance against the motor wires. I have no idea what value it would need to be. Does anyone have any idea? As always many thanks for looking. Mark.

Many thanks for your reply Nigel I'll have a look. I must admit I am using Zimo myself now, but found I'd got this one and was hoping to use it. Mark.

I've got a Gaugemaster dcc93 Ruby 6 pin decoder and I was wondering if I can solder a stay alive to it. It seems to have solder pads and appears to be the same as the Digitrax DZ126IN which does mention that it has solder pads. However I have looked at various instruction sheets on the internet, but cannot find which is the ground and common (if indeed they are). Can anyone point me in the right direction or put me out of my misery and tell me that I cannot fit a stay alive to this decoder? As always many thanks for your help. Mark.

Thanks Grriff - sorry for the delay in responding, but will definitely have a look.

Many thanks Nigel - I'll have a look at the Zimo.

Many thanks Trevora and Crosland for your responses. I'm looking for an alternative decoder now. Do you think the Zimo MX617 Direct would be ok? If so can I just connect the stay alive to it's solder pads?

Hi I am looking to fit a stay alive to my Bachmann 64XX (31-637) which currently has a standard Bachmann 6 pin decoder. As this type of decoder doesn't have solder pads is it possible to hardwire it directly to the wires coming from the pick-ups? As always many thanks for looking. Mark.