doilum

Clock repairs??? I fear it won't be long before you are teaching us a thing or two!!

The Sheffield Corporation wagons were a larger version that was cleared for main line use to the sewage works near the M1 flyover. Being all steel and perfect scrap, these side tippers faced an overnight extinction as the pits closed.

Postwar, the all steel hudson style sidetipper was almost universal at Yorkshire pits which did not use an ariel ropeway. By the early '70s, examples of these tippers were being transferred from the Durham area to Yorkshire. The spoil lines were by their nature, temporary or medium term at best. The side tippers could be unloaded without additional facilities or teams of labour. If anyone has definite information about the prewar era I would love to hear.

If you ask three O gauge modellers, the only thing you can be sure of is at least four answers.You may be surprised at how many excellent exhibition layouts are built around Peco points and track. Find some second hand Peco, get something running, learn the limitations of the track, your stock and your skills and then plan your forever layout with handbuilt points etc.

Now you know why I do the couupling rods first! I was given the advice many years ago by an old modeller who was trying to sort out the mess I had got into.

Not sure if you have seen this on another thread Try u tube " innocent line last train"

The usual railway show. I believe the engineering event is at the Yorkshire Showground Harrogate later in the year.

Not definitely sure, but were Trabant cars made this way.

Left primary school in '66

Thinking back, we had a similar experience in primary school. The culprit was the flour based mix. Then we discovered Polycells new ready to use wallpaper paste, which turned out to have toxic antifungal ingredients. Schools did have bespoke pastes and glue but these were too expensive for large scale projects.

This technique combines well with open top baseboards. Spend your money on best birch plywood and source every thing else from the recycling bin. Can vouch for the hot glue gun. Pegs or large crocodile clips come in handy. Evosticks expanding wood glue is almost instant, but at 10 quid a tube you wouldn't buy it in specially. And, keep it away from children.

But, did you use PVA?

Mould should not be a problem with PVA. It produces an almost waterproof finish. Keep small children away from wallpaper paste. The cat is probably sensible enough to make her own decisions.

PS. Don't forget to ask the cats permission before borrowing the tray.

YES. I have made landscapes and theatrical props this way. Use the cheaper stuff from a builders merchant. Plenty of water and a drop of detergent. One method is to put the PVA mix into a litter tray or similar, and immerse strips of newspaper. Build up two or three layers and leave to dry. This may take a day or three depending on temperature. Repeat twice. Result is as strong as fibreglass and probably lighter. Carpet felt can be applied in the same way and is now probably bullet proof. It is best laid over a woven frame of cornflake box cardboard. It is good messy fun that can be shared with children. FLOOR PROTECTION ESSENTIAL.

Look on u tube for "innocent railway last train." 1968 coal . Amazing wealth of information for modelers.

I would be interested to hear from anyone with a working knowledge of traffic from Goole. Were empty coal wagons used for pit prop delveries. I gues not as it would have disrupted the original merry go round syystem

A time served engineer should have no trouble making folding bars, chassis jigs etc. A trip around a car boot sale will often turn up vices etc as they are too small to be of use to the general public. Put the money saved into a better quality kit, or in the case of a loco, into a top spec motor,/ gearbox. I had forgotten the riveting tool. That said my first drop riveter was made for me by a time seved engineer.

These days there a very few things that cause me to ponder the meaning of the tenth commandment. Finney kits are one of them.

One of my best resources is a timber scrap box. The time spent knocking up a simple jig is always rewarded. I would add to.my list good quality engineers set squares and rulers and an A4 sized piece of plate glass. And lollipop sticks. Great at saving burnt fingers.

1/16= roughly 3.5 inch gauge. Google for suppliers to this scale. If you can make the York show, there are usually one or two traders/demonstrators with finescale models in the larger gauges.

Kit building requires far less than scratch building. Some of the ancient kits demand some of the scratch builders tools and skills. Basic tools would start with Fibreglass brush / pencil / stick without which you will struggle to do any decent soldering. Small drills and a set of pinvices. Make sure the baby one is small enough for for the sub millimetre drills. Needle files. You can buy good ones, but lookout for cheap disposable sets. Small clamps and tweezers Assuming you have a suitable soldering iron ans flux, and the usual basic DIY tools, you should be able to tackle loco kits from the likes of Mercian, Judith Edge and Jim McGowan. Not sure about your preferred scale but hopefully this helps.

Have just stumbled upon a U Tube clip. Try Google for "coal and the war" a Pathe film. Note mixture of PO wagons

It would be very rare for coal wagons to find a return load. Most/all had clear return instructions painted on the side. presumably the colliery or merchant would be charged for this empty trip. A win win for the railway.

One or two of our larger local collieries had an incline to the landsale drops. Trains were restricted to two or three hopper wagons and the drops had as many cells each capable of taking a 10T lorry. By necessity, these were close to the main road and easily observed.