barleybill

Thanks Richard that is most helpful. I am half way through making a pulley wheel and after your reading your new information will also make a top hat bush. My discipline is RF Electronics, so all of this lathe work is new to me but I must admit it is enjoyable. I am running the motor on the lath to make the new pulley wheel; bit of a lash up but I only have the one lathe. it has been interesting to observe the current being drawn by the motor when turning and it rarely exceeds 1.5 Amps, so at 24 Volts that is only 36 Watts and well within the rated 120 Watts of the motor. Regards William

Hello Richard Very interesting that you decided on the scooter motor. I had researched motors and the 120W 24V scooter motor was already favourite. Your comments finalised the selection and I have one temporary fitted to my unimat. I say temporary because it is hanging on one screw from the old motor that just about fitted. Did you fit a second screw and if so, how did you achieve drilling and tapping. I am loath to undo the long screws that appear to go right through the motor in case everything falls out in a pile of bits never to work again. Drilling into the fully assembled motor would fill it with swarf and leaving it hanging on one screw is asking for the casting to get broken. I shall be turning a new pulley wheel in the next couple of days and wondered how you did that. Did you simply make a 8mm diameter bore and ignore the flat side of the motor spindle? It looks to me as though a couple of grub screws onto the flat would hold it in position. Did you keep the pulley ratio of the two larger grooves of the old motor pulley? I can see that with the slower motor speed (from 4000 rpm of the old motor to 2500 rpm of the new one) the largest pulley diameter would be required to achieve maximum speed and that the motor input voltage can be reduced in order to get lower speeds. Regards William