NCB

Sorry, wrong thread!

Cambrian Coast line at Picnic Island just east of Penhelig, on the Dovey estuary, 11/2/2010

I've built a 3mm scale version of the Roxey kit, as seen below; this included an etch done by a 3mm Society member to produce a closed-cab extended-bunker version. It can make a decent model. I'd say the kit is typical of its era, with less slot-and-tab construction than you might expect to find now. It's essential to work from a good diagram of the prototype, to get things like tank length and position right. Proceed methodically, checking everything as you go, make corrections as necessary, and it should work out OK. I was building it to run on scale width track (14.2mm gauge in 3mm) and did hit one problem; the coupling rods fouled the valence under the footplate. Seemed to me on looking at the diagram that the prototype would have had the same problem. Looking closely at available photographs I convinced myself that the GWR joggled the valence out over the rods, so that's what I did; you can see it in the photograph. Nigel

Kyle of Lochalsh, 1984 and 22/5/92

Fort William / Mallaig bound train leaving Bridge of Orchy, 30/9/15

Fort William bound train north of Corrour, 10/6/97, taken from the slopes of Beinn na Lap

Later Romfords were fine, early ones had quality control problems. Once assembled a chassis (in OO) with Romfords, checking on a flat bit of track to make sure it was square. Later as an afterthought decided to check it on a piece of plate glass, supposedly the way to do it, according to the experts. Rocked all over the place. Turned out the flange diameter on one wheel was way over spec. Moral: plate glass is useless, checks the wrong thing; check it on flat track. Plastic-centred wheels vary in quality. Never tried the 3mm Society's SQ wheels (although they're supposed to be OK), but the fine-scale ones are fine. In OO I got on with Ultrascale, Gibson and a few others not so much. Nigel

Chris Thanks for the info. I've ordered the D1/D2 in extreme detail and the D4 in ultra detail so can compare them. Nigel

Romford did indeed do a few types of 3mm wheels. Also, before Romford disappeared the 3mm Society commissioned some 16.5mm (5'6") driving wheels, to 3mm scale and the latest 3mm Society RP25 Intermediate Standard. These are available from both the 3mm Society and 3SMR. With Romford disappearing the 3mm Society set about commissioning their own comprehensive range of replacement wheels, known as SQ wheels; these are plastic centred but, like Romfords, self-quartering, having a square axle hole which fits Romford-style axles. 3SMR also do their own similar range of wheels, with both plastic and cast centres.

Hi Chris I'll give them a try. Presumably the frosted extreme detail is higher quality then the ultra detail; can you give any indication of how much improvement you think there is, for these models? Difficult question I know, but I haven't heard of extreme detail before. Also, for the second link, this is for two bodies of each type? I'll pass the info onto the Society egroup, if that's OK with you, where there might well be some interest. Cheers Nigel

There was an article entitled Re-wheeling a Triang chassis by Dudley Withers in Mixed Traffic no. 75. He used Kean Maygib wheels, no longer available, but the recent 3mm Society SQ wheels would do the same and be even better. Never done it myself or even thought about it, but I would imagine that the problems are: (1) you might need to bush the axle holes; all current 3mm axles are 1/8", not sure what Triang is. (2) if you re-use the existing Triang motor and worm you might need to work out how to remove the gear wheel from the driving axle and re-use it. (3) you might need to bush the coupling rods, if the holes are much larger than the SQ coupling rod pins. (4) you can probably re-use the existing pickups. Back numbers of Mixed Traffic are available through the Society via Tim Barnard. A question on the Yahoo group might yield more information.

I've long had the Metalsmith's rolling bars, both 6" and 12". They are useful. However, these days I model in 3mm/ft, and even the 6" comes nowhere near the radius for boilers that I require, or for that matter splasher tops. I quite often start off with the 6", but for getting the radius down to what I actually need I've found that a round bar (K&S tube if small enough diameter will do, or a round knife handle, or similar) plus a piece from a typical foam camping mat seems ideal. I've tried other foam products such as mouse mats, but the camping mat is the best yet.

If you're looking for some buildings to get you started, then 3SMR have the full range of Bilteezi card kits in 3mm. With a bit of care they can make nice models. Re decals, look at the Transfers section on page 11 of the price list. FX3 BR loco & coach (Fox Transfers) may be what you're looking for. I should check with the shop, because FX3 contains a lot (so I believe, not used it) but costs £17.50, and I think there's a plan to chop it into smaller and cheaper discrete units. The Society runs a Yahoo group 3mm-scale-modelling, for members only, which you may well find worth joining, as it's a good source of information.

This statement is indeed sometimes used, but you need to understand the context. The 3mm Society finescale standards specified for 14.2mm gauge are rather more generous than say P4 is in 4mm scale (relatively speaking). This is sometimes illustrated by saying that it's rather like reducing EM standards to 3mm scale but, unlike EM, using the correct 14.2 (or, as has been pointed out, 14.125) gauge. So it's some way removed from Stewart Hine's S3 standards. Whatever, the standards work.