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Northroader

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Posts posted by Northroader

  1. AZULEJOS POR SÃO LUCAS.

     

    A bit more has happened with the station building. It started off with a 12mm ply base, then a 5mm foamboard shell. Now I’ve covered it with a thick cartridge paper, to give it some more texture, and then a wash in white acrylic paint. One very noteworthy feature of a lot of Portuguese buildings is the use of glazed tiles, commonly white with a blue design, but you san see them in other colours. I gather it’s a centuries old cultural tradition, and many railway stations use it. The larger stations can have murals of quite heroic proportions, such as the concourse at Porto São Bento:

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    The second panel on a railway theme is interesting, as it shows Portuguese railways also used the large block bells. (See page 17) Of course, my station is too small and simple for the big designs, just having tiled panels on the lower part of the wall. I did a download of a repetitive pattern, and printed it with a reduction of 50%. The tiles come out too big with this, really it needed 75% reduction, but I found the print lost definition and became too blurred, so I’m using oversize tiles. A good tip would be to print your tiles, then design the building to fit, I was really lucky that the pattern came right for the panel sizes. The tiles were cut to size and stuck in place with UHU, and then got two coats of satin varnish. A shiny finish gives them a better look, but I find anything done on my printer always suffers from the ink fading, and I feel the varnish will help protect this. The building has raised strips round the corners and the doors, I used some card to do this, painted a sort of peachy colour mixed in acrylic, and a bit of Miliput filler under the door arches.

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    • Like 11
    • Craftsmanship/clever 3
    • Round of applause 1
  2. On 03/01/2024 at 23:29, Nearholmer said:

    Not strictly CA, but I think Edwardian and the parishioners might know the answer better than anyone:

     

    Hypothetically, asking for a friend, that sort of thing, if one wanted to buy a 00 loco, as in buy, not spend ages building from a kit or from scratch, to work an independent minor railway set pte-WW1, a bit up the ladder from an 1896 LIght Railway, other than a Terrier or the planned MW L Class, what could one obtain?

     

    I’m not well up on 00 models, but having scadded through the adverts in the RM, I can’t see anything. The pre-grouping locos that are available seem to be either very big, very modern for the period, or so obviously company specific. Maybe the Adams Radial?


    Er, Kevin, this friend of yours, you could tell him of a chat we were having some time ago, which might convince him of the way forward? (And a picture which has survived the Great Photo Crash!!!)

     

     

    • Like 4
  3. I think the 4plank job is very modellable, if only we knew what the cast plate says. The solebars look flitched, no crown plates, then there’s the vertical strapping at the ends, no corner plate or straps except for a wrap around at the top, the end isn’t a flat top but raised in the middle with tapering flanks, and no diagonal strapping, presumably the continuous top plank provides the support. Continuous top plank on a four planker? It’s got both sides brakes and levers, so it’s really quite up to date.

     

    edit: p.s. I thought the coaling operation looks good, a line of p.o. wagons James Ke??? of Liverpool, dumb buffers on the siding, and a more modern one dangling over the ship. I hope they’re going to lower it down a bit and shovel it out, no end door to open,  “Bombs away!”…

    • Like 2
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  4. Can we talk about 4plankers as well on here? If so here’s two as match wagons. In the yard of Horsehay and Dawley station in Shropshire. The Horsehay Co. specialised in girders for cranes and bridges. I can see how the girder is chained down on the bogies, I can guess that they are linked by a rigid bar, I can presume the underslung chains are for traction forces, but I’m mystified how the buffing forces pass from the wagons to the girder.

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    • Like 2
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 3
  5. 10 hours ago, Mikkel said:

     

    But the stock boxes under the table on the right really caught my attention, a reminder of the diverse and interesting stock that you build:

     

     

    So these are boxes with full length trains, or how does it work?

     

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    My stock boxes are made from sheets of 3mm greyboard, a thick cardboard you can get from art materials shops, and I think they use it for mounting pictures, Mikkel. I cut it to size with a Stanley knife, and also use this to score the corners before folding, then gluing with pva. One end is fixed, the other stuck down one side, and secured with a tag like shoe box, although I find these don’t take much wear. For 0 scale, they’re 4” x 3” section, though I find the occasional cupola or chimney will jam inside. Most of the stuff is a slack fit, but they’re kept roughly in line, and you can get buffers locking as you get them out, and sometimes as I decant them the odd buffer head will appear on its own, and I always try to keep them level. I fancy if you’re using tension lock couplers or suchlike you will find a lot of tangling as the set appears, I’m using link couplers which aren’t a problem for this. Generally there’s a made up set inside with loco and rolling stock. Using short trains they’re quite manageable, and lengths match fiddle yard cassettes, the length in inches being marked on the end, and a completed set gets a green square. You can see they’re strong enough to be stackable. If you’re a “collector” there’s great stress made of having the model packed in the original box, but as I scratchbuilt or pick up loose bits second hand I prefer having the models in blocks like this.

    • Like 8
    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 3
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