Lancs_fus

Got the yard laid out, ten Peco medium radius I think they are streamline code 75 turnouts 12 foot board by just 12 inches wide giving 6 tracks, most with run arounds to provide some storage and fiddle yard space on the layout. This board will be under one of the main scenic boards. Control is Digitrax DCC with block detection for signalling. Track is pre soldered, every piece with its own droppers, no relieance on track connectors anywhere. All turnouts are modified to live frog with over centre springs removed for Tortoise motor installation and frog polarity switched via the Tortoise SPDT contacts.

Was suggested I blog what I am doing in my 12' x 10' Digitrax DCC controlled loft layout called High Tor built to 4mm scale set in the Peak District in 1933-35. This video is of my first DCC control drawer for the yard.

It's interesting really as I have never heard the real thing and never plan to nor will anyone who sees and hears my trains either so what does it really matter to me? I like the idea of the right sound though but frankly I wouldn't know it if it was played to me or not! The quality of the sound I can understand though so I would like a quality sounding locomotive whether the sound is necessarily correct or not is secondary. Thanks for the inputs everyone.

No thanks I am not looking to go cheap I am simply curious as to what the differences are. Thanks for the input regarding reblowing my existing LS v3.5 decoders though. I am cheap enough to look to reblow the ones I have rather than throw them out .

So a budget decoder like the Digitrax sound bug that you can at least change the sounds would be better than the LS select then? Or is that a sweeping generalisation!

Thanks for the input on this topic. Can I muddy it a bit and ask about the differences between a select and a V4 then for new purchases?

Thank you to all who responded. I have a lokprogrammer in my train room somewhere. It was gifted to me and I never used it myself. Probably had it about 6-8 years I am guessing so it is probably the right for for 3.5 version lok sound decoders I am guessing. I have Mac computers, so would need to set them up to run parallels to be able to use them I guess with the programmer. Never done that sort of thing before. Must get into it... Thanks Lego man biffo too for your kind offer. Will look into uk firms for reblown sounds as I am modelling British outline steam. Regards, Paul Hamilton, Perth, Western Australia

Hello group, Did a quick search and a trawl but couldn't find the answer. I have several old 3.5 look sound decoders and wanted to know if the major stores still will reblow these for us or not? Cheers, Paul Hamilton Perth, Western Australia

I like the Simplex. What decoder are you using for this one?

Inspirational work - I should stop procrastinating about building my 4mm ones

I live about 30 minutes drive from DCC Concepts so it is easy for me to pick up their items in person and have a natter while I'm at it.

Hello, I am using the DCC Concepts stainless bull head in point work coupled with their printed circuit board sleepers with etched pads, pre-cut to length in the post here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102234-soldered-point-work-on-lancs-fus-midland-peak-district-layout/ I am using the no clean flux from DCC Concepts and the 50W Antex temp controlled soldering iron on maximum as recommended which is over 400 degrees C and having cleaned the underside of the rail with an abrasive it takes the solder relatively easily requiring the iron to be in contact for approximately 2 seconds. In the rail attached so far I have had 4 joints that didn't take out of about 60 and simply had re-applied some flux and remade the joint. Cleaning the iron tip on the damp sponge and always applying a little of the 179 degree melt point solder has made up neat joints that allow for cosmetic chair placement afterwards if desired. For electrical connection I have now pre-drilled a 1.3mm hole through the sleeper pad adjacent to the the rail I wish to make live (such as the frog) and soldered the dropper to the sleeper as opposed to the rail underside itself. Should negate any issues with respect to direct to rail soldering. A fibreglass pen has proven valuable to clean the rail sides at the sleeper locations just prior to applying the flux which helps the solder adhere to the side of the rail a little too. Don't think it matters too much as the solder wicks in under the rail and onto the pad quite easily. I haven't made a vee yet out of the stainless as I am using up old C&L ones I already had. Hope some of this assists - so far, so good.

Hello there, love your wagons. I built this kit today and wondered what in the end was the colour you decided on? I am in Australia so would like to find out what paints and transfers I need to procure. Also interested in the vacuum pipes and where to get these too. Many thanks, Oh, I am modelling LMS period by the way!