brylonscamel

.. brilliant! ... that might be the first time I've given anyone a warm fuzzy feeling. I might need to compliment people on their signal boxes more often ;-)

Next up .. some scrach built signal boxes. This one, based on the lovely tall boxes of the North East (i.e. Kittybrewster and Dyce Junction)

You may be unaware when you've helped motivate your fellow modellers. Can I just thank you for posting details of your delightful signal box as it got me going on my long overdue 'tall box' project!

November must be 'tall signal box month'! I must admit, seeing the lovely LNWR box in this thread, spurred me on to have a crack at another model: One of the projects I've been keen to start on is a couple of scratch-built signal boxes for our North-East-Scotland-ish layout "Braeside". I've had a couple of previous disasters (hopelessly out of scale / never made it from the card mock-up stages etc.) but I've had more luck recently with other structures so I had a go at one of the distinctive tall boxes that could be found in the Aberdeen area (i.e. Kittybrewster / Dyce Junction) One of the things I'm keen to add, once the external construction is finished is interior / lighting as the LNWR box really does look wonderful with the interior detail. Next up - a new version of the Stonehaven station box after I got the last one so badly wrong! I'm happy to share these previous disasters as well - as it might a) cause some amusement and b) show how I'm learning some painful lessons along the way.

.. and another 'watching the trains go by moment" with our Bachmann / Hornby hybrid class 40 D234 "Accra" as she passes through Braeside with an Edinburgh - Aberdeen express.

.. the same video on YouTube

.. so I have to remind myself of why it's all worthwhile. (see following videos)

argh! .. fitting the motor, filing the back of some bushes and opening up the cavity in the whitemetal body and everything suddenly gets more stressful.

Ooh .. this is my favourite new thread

Here's the latest addition to the fleet, and my first foray into brass and white-metal kit building - an ex LNER J35 from DJH Kits. I've described the process of (starting with) learning the techniques elsewhere. Lets just say that advice on this forum was forthcoming and really helped with understanding the basics - and where to go for the right materials. So I'll just leave it to a few photos to illustrate the thing coming to life!

Gosh .. that's a beauty and the weathering and paintwork has a very subtle touch - looks like a real working loco without descending into "fit-for-the-scrapyard" territory.

.. and here's the progress on the "make a covered van from a flat bit of brass" project

Thanks for taking the time to comment on the layout - the cameos have definitely proved popular! I spoke to the modeller responsible for an amazing exhibition layout ("Worlds End") and he bases his groups of figures on photography of real scenes, assembling people in poses that match the original image. You could really see the care he'd taken over it. Marvellous stuff.

.. some brass has been finding its way onto the workbench (for the first time!)

.. any news?

That's very kind of you - I'm not sure I've read it from the beginning!! - I hadn't updated this thread for a while so it's good to know people are enjoying the photos and accompanying waffle.

Here's the various stops along the way, in getting a version of 40063 that I'm happier with. Just some flush glazing to finish off, and to be mounted onto one of the sound fitted Bachmann chassis.

With the Bachmann models being at the higher end of the price range, I'd like to make a case for the old Lima moulding (now in the Hornby range) as a starting point for some extra detailing. The models can be picked up relatively cheaply and have some great potential (if you enjoy a bit of fettling!). I've included some photos of work-in-progress on one of the bodies, to make her look like a specific Scottish Region loco (40063)

.. I'm humbled by the recent examples of figure painting shared here. However, to keep the thread alive and hopefully invite more contributions, I've added photos of previously painted figures 'in action' on our layout, many of the figures coming more to life just by appearing to talk to each other or by doing some mundane jobs!

.... another 'fiddling with old diesels project' is underway - this time another old Hornby Class 29. It looks like a number of the fleet went to the scrapyard still sporting headcode discs as opposed to the 'number blinds' of the reconditioned locos. This model is un-powered - only being used to 'double head' with another class 29 - this seems prototypical as the class were reported to be very unreliable!

Our weathered and fettled class 24 finally gets an outing on the layout. A full rake of Insulfish vans and off she clatters and just like real wee Sulzers she didn't break any speed records but sounds just lovely. Here's what we did to her: Weathered (combination of brush applied washes of a black/reddish grime and airbrushed lighter sandy grime and glossy oil stains) Yellow warning panel added to an originally all green body Renumbered D5015 Handmade brass wire couplings front and rear Etched brass indicator discs Factory supplied buffer-beam detailing and white-metal steam heating pipe moulding Legomanbiffo sound project added to an ESU v4 chip - connected to an 8 ohm Bass Reflex speaker

... another first rate contribution Pete - you've been very subtle with the use of colour which makes for a very convincing 'period' look. I am intrigued as to what the track worker is carrying that's a bright red and green - he really jumps out from the rest of the group (in their collection of brown and blue work-wear)

.. great work - it's really coming together.

.. oh yeah, one other 'dirty trick' - model your loco on one that hasn't got 'rounded edges' on the yellow warning panel - this makes your life a bit easier (assuming you're keen to be as prototypical as possible!) Here's one example I found ... D5100 at York on Flickr

SYP - 'Small Yellow Panel"? .. I'm sure everyone has their own tricks .. here's mine: I think the main thing is to use a good quality fine line tape for the border, then continue with a normal width low tack masking tape (a good one from a decorator's supplier is OK) for the rest of the body - that way you get a crisp edge that isn't likely to bleed Check the seal between the fine tape and the rest of the masking tape Use a white (or very light grey) modelling undercoat spray (automotive aerosol paints are also fine) for the first coat or two. The reason for this is that yellow isn't very opaque and benefits from being applied over a light background As drying times for most undercoat sprays (cellulose paints) are very quick, you can progress soon after to applying your yellow with an airbrush Apply the coats of yellow with a fairly dilute mist of yellow. Wait until it's touch dry - apply another light coat Bingo!