Jump to content
RMweb
 

Hobby

Members
  • Posts

    2,474
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Hobby

  1. 11 hours ago, luke_stevens said:

    5. The bit were I don't prefer the Peco track is the sleeper shape! It seems "top-heavy" where as the Tillig looks more prototypical. Tempted to try and file the Peco sleeper to a rectangular shape. As a side note the Peco plastic is MUCH softer than the Tillig: Peco deformes under nippers whereas the Tillig goes "ping!"

    8-9.jpg.ebe1364ed61a20b69896295f550a0595.jpg

     

    Why? The shape would be hidden by ballast and not visible!

     

    I assume the Tillig track is similar to their H0e track which is well known for being a little "delicate", though looks very nice.

  2. 50 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:

    I don’t think your the target customer then 😉

     

    I'm most certainly not! :)

     

    My friend when we were both 18, had a 1.1 Escort, nowt wrong with them!! If I was after a rally car, though, I think I'd rather have a modern one or a genuine original, not one that has had it's heart ripped out!! ;) (Reply to 30801!) What floats you boat, I suppose, but a classic with a non original electric motor does nothing for me even if it had a sound chip!! 🤣

    • Agree 1
  3. It always disappoints me that we seem to get this sort of us vs them reporting, it's like reading the cyclists vs motorists "discussions". So much for the standards of reporting these days.

     

    Strange choice of car, I could think of plenty of others more suitable. Why choose a manual and not an auto and the complain about it! Stop start didn't get mentioned but I assume that the car would have it so was he deliberately driving it so it didn't kick in. Since when can't any car get up to speed on a slip road, I could do it in a Mini 1000, so it's just poor driving if he can't in a 1.5 petrol, you certainly don't need a 3 sec 0-60 time to accelerate to get up to speed and merge into the traffic (which on the inside lane probably isn't doing any more than 60 anyhow!

     

    Such articles (and the opposite one that made him write it) don't do either side any good, it just comes across as a petty playground squable.

     

    Pathetic journalism. 

    • Agree 4
  4. 1 hour ago, F-UnitMad said:

    BUT my point in that post was, is it enough of a difference to lure people away from N in particular? I doubt it personally, and until there's a range in British TT 120 to rival that in N, it's rather a moot point anyway.

     

    Having actually modelled in 1:120 and briefly British N I'm going off experience with my comments. However as you say until there's a range it will be impossible to tell. I think the TT modellers won't just come from N, though, as others have said its a good compromise scale, a reasonable amount of detail, not as fiddly as N, but with major space savings over 00.

    • Like 1
    • Agree 2
  5. 6 minutes ago, tomparryharry said:

    Sorry; once again, late to the party.

     

    have I got this right? This is in the right range for 3'6" Cape Gauge (1:87)?

     

    In 1:120 scale you'd have to use 9mm gauge track for Cape Gauge. If you mean 12mm gauge then yes some people do use the gauge for modelling Cape gauge in H0 scale, and they also use it for modelling Metre gauge in H0 (designated H0m). In 1:87 12mm comes out at 1044mm in Real Life so it's roughly half way between Metre and 1067mm (Cape gauge 3ft 6ins). The new TT track, though, would be completely unsuitable!

     

    Confused? You soon will be!!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  6. 31 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

    Please for the sake of sanity! If you wish to publish comparison picks....let them be of the same type of prototype! .... Not knocking you but it's making my head hurt! 

     

    To be fair that would be very difficult as there are very few 1:120 models of UK prototypes! There's another thread with comparison pics which i set up, but I deliberately allowed variation, and even narrow gauge! The point was that many people couldn't get their head round how big/small 1:120 is so by allowing the variation people could compare the scale to stock in other scales that they'd come across before. If it's making your head hurt then look away! ;)

    • Like 1
    • Agree 2
  7. 12 hours ago, NCB said:

    What I hope is that new 2.5mm models are at the top in terms of quality. And it worries me that the determination  to use correct gauge may compromise this.

     

    I don't know of any RTR that is perfect, all have compromises which 99% of modellers accept, I don't see any new TT RTR being any different, it probably won't please those who model finescale 3mm but that isn't who it's aimed at so it doesn't matter.

     

    10 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:

    I'm not so sure - there's not much difference between the two. That's not saying there's NO difference - just not enough to make it worthwhile? 

    It's where I think R-T-R 3mm on 14.2mm track might've stood a better chance, being more clearly 'in between' 2mm & 4mm scales, so possibly worth migrating to from either scale. 

     

    We've had this discussion before, if you look at the comparison photos in this thread and the other you will see that there is a noticeable difference between British N and 1:120. Regarding 14.2, that was never going to happen,  it would kill all the sales Peco are looking for in the Continental TT 12mm gauge market (which i suspect was their main reason for doing it) and even the 3mm market is split on the gauge issue so would have limited sales there as well. Best to start from scratch as they've done. Having modelled in 1:120 scale I can assure you that there is sufficient difference between N and 00/H0 to make it a scale worth considering!

    • Like 4
    • Agree 2
    • Friendly/supportive 2
  8. 20 minutes ago, tomparryharry said:

    I'm somewhat curious about electric vehicles, vis-a-vis  road tax. What will happen when the electric vehicles are the majority of UK road traffic?  Taxation on the motoring public is well-known. 

     

    Tax by mileage covered, probably higher rates for built up areas than motorways or the country. For IC engined cars that would be very difficult for the majority of older ones around at the moment but I suspect there will be something in the computers in modern cars which will make it quite easy to do.

  9. 6 minutes ago, AndrueC said:

    Toyota's HSD most definitely can drive the A/C without the ICE.

     

    https://mag.toyota.co.uk/8-things-you-didnt-know-about-hybrid/

     

    "In a conventional petrol or diesel-powered car, the compressor that powers the air conditioning is connected to the engine, meaning it can only be operated when the engine is running. In our hybrids, the compressor is connected to the high voltage battery, allowing the system to run even when the petrol engine is inactive. On Prius and Prius Plug-in models, the air conditioning can be activated via the car’s key fob to allow the car to reach the ideal temperature before a trip."

     

    That's what makes me think on the mild hybrids it's also electrically powered as the battery would certainly be big enough. I got the impression when I looked into it before I bought it that the ancillaries such as ac ran off the 48v battery but can't see any confirmation. It ran for some time when we were stationary in an m-way jam before the engine kicked in last year.

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  10. 21 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:

    The air on on ordinary ICE vehicle will continue to work even when the engine is stopped in traffic, for a few minutes and then the engine will restart depending upon the load required by the vehicle.

     

    Usually the hybrid battery is used as a “helper” traction drive of some sort.

     

    I do not know the exact way that VW have set it up.

     

    I've tried doing some digging but it seems it can vary from make to make, some mild hybrids work the ac off the 48v battery and some don't! Some also have some sort of accumulator (probably wrong word!) which stores the cold in some way!

  11. 1 hour ago, AndrueC said:

    Ah but how do you think the electricity gets into the 'big battery' in the first place?

     

    Answer: By burning petrol ;)

     

    Also by using the regen, which as I've always driven for economy, comes naturally anyhow! I think you'll find modern alternators don't use up as much fuel as you think they do either. It's noticeable when I start driving and the aircon is getting the interior to the setting I've put it at if I'm stationary it keeps the engine going, but once the engine is up to temperature the aircon keeps going and mpg stays stationary.

×
×
  • Create New...