teetrix

For all those who struggle with MDF: There is a stuff named "Kraftplex", made entirely of wood fibre. https://www.laserbeest.nl/wp-content/uploads/09_pdf/kraftplex_productinformatie.pdf http://shop.kraftplex.com/epages/61603095.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2F61603095%2FCategories%2FProdukte%2FKraftplex Their T&C said they sell only to businesses, but when I asked, I was told they sell to individuals too. Additional this company was mentioned as dealer: http://www.formulor.de/material/kraftplex Formulor is an interesting lasercutting company itself - they allow you to create your design in a browser window or upload Adobe Illustrator, Corel or Inkscape files. For all those who haven't got their emblaser yet http://www.formulor.de/ Michael

I was a little bit disappointed too. I would like to have a class 1 laser device very much, because the german authorities are going mad about class 4 lasers since some idiots have targeted their laserpointer beams to airplanes... But I only need an A4 working area, I don't need a 3D focus, and my budget as well as my space are limited. If the price is near 2000€, a german competitor is Mr.Beam (note the "m" at the end to avoid confusion ) http://mr-beam.org/ I would second Giles on Glowforge. I'm fed up with cloud solutions, since I have to work with Office 365 every day. And their teaser video looks to much like a teaser to me... Sorry, I'm allergic to those smooth salesmen . Additional, I can get a 40W CO2 lasercutter with A4 working area, chinese origin, reworked and technical upgraded in Germany, plug and play, certified class1 standard, for 2500 €, including demonstration and short training at the seller's premises. So, much depends on the price... Michael

Jason, I would blame it to the brackets or another mechanical part. It looks as you have a little play at one end of the working area, and at the other end not. I hope it become better when you have replaced the brackets. Michael

Hi Milkbar1, I second Chris - the darkly labs forum has a wider approach and can surely answer your questions better. With a lasercutter you will always have the risk of burn marks or smoke traces. And the emblaser will not scan your image, it only cuts. The silver bullet seems to me to fit your purposes better. You can have a look at the Brother "Scan and Cut" range and the Pazzles "Inspiration Vue" too, but I don't know if they can handle the thickness of your cardboard. Michael

Gentlemen, I'm amazed... :good: Congrats! Obviously those (relatively) low power diodes allow much more fineness as a bigger CO2 laser. My lasercutting partners achieved 0,6 mm width in 1 mm MDF: and 0.5 mm in 0.5 mm acryl: by using expensive trotecs, and they were (rightly) quite proud of it. But it looks rather coarse compared to your results. You can see even single "laser shots" at the MDF part, I think it's impossible to turn the power even lower... The black cardboard seems indeed to absorb the energy better and let it stay at a small point. Michael

@ Giles: Maybe you become a trendsetter @ Trofimow: You can get complete exhaust kits from merchants specialized for the needs of a "growing community" : https://www.growland.co.uk/Extraction-Kits But activated coal filters will only last minutes if exposed to MDF fumes, so you will need some more robust filter mats before them. Here are some inspirations for complete DIY-units, unfortunately only in german and made for much bigger CO2 lasers, but maybe useful to get the idea: http://wiki.fablab-muenchen.de/display/WIKI/Selbstbau-Absaugung Michael

Sometimes it's good to haven't enough money yet... Michael

I had this problem when designing coaches with interior. My solution was: One part for the outside, one part for the inside, glued back to back. I made the openings for the windows bigger at the inside, so the windows could be inserted from the inside precisely and neat. Michael

Hi Simon, my point was to "rescue" the already existing parts... My very first laserkit (a tramway loco) had 17 mistakes, but it turned into a built model after manual reworking of the parts, because I had paid for them... The second attempt on this kit was much better... Michael

Hi Simon, those sheets have rather coarse toelances, maybe they are thicker as assumed? It can be a scaling problem too. If you cut an rectangle 100x100 mm, do the dimensions exactly matching the drawing? Maybe you can cut the slots a little deeper with a sawblade? Very interesting thread btw. Michael

... instead of turning people into skeletons and dust? (like mentioned in the very first posting )

Simon, AFAIK cutting lasers are pulsed (at least in engrave mode) and "fire" very short impulses. The more impulses per second, the more energy is applied, resulting in more or less deep engravings or cuts. The 700 V you have calculated may be the average value resulting from working and idle times. But I'm not an expert, so open to corrections... Btw, which make/brand of laser are you using? Michael

Btw, there is even special plywood for lasercutting out there, i.e.: https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials/wood/laserply_124_15_56/3mm-laserplylite-new-product-p-1014.html Look for "Laserply" or "lasergrade plywood" Australian source: I've found lasercutting company in NSW selling plywood sheets. Although "laserable" is not mentioned, it's worth a question, I think they sell the same stuff they're cutting: http://www.lasercutkits.com.au/product/basswood-ply-300x900mm-sheet/ Michael

I've found ViaCAD very intuitive and useful (much easier as turboCAD) , and it's available for Windows and Mac. Although it is a powerful 3D-CAD I've only dabbled in 2D so far. http://www.punchcad.com/p-27-viacad-2d3d-v9.aspx You can download a test version and evaluate if it works on your computer and if you can work with it easy. I recommend the "2D/3D" version: http://www.punchcad.com/trial.aspx Prices are reasonable, and older versions are still available quite cheap. Michael

Hi Giles, I've found this at the darkly labs forum: http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/150/stops-cutting-without-error Btw I would contact the support anyway... Michael

Hi Monkeysarefun, It's worth to have a look at arts& craft stores and Architect's suppliers. And look for fiberboard/fibreboard or laserboard also. Thin MDF is grinded down from 3mm standard thickness, therefore it's rare and (relatively) expensive. In Australia I've found this, maybe it's suitable, at least worth a question: http://www.artscene.com.au/shopping/boards/chip-board/crescent-chipboard http://www.artscene.com.au/shopping/boards/boxboards--strawboard-/boxboards--strawboard- My german suppliers are: https://www.architekturbedarf.de/katalog/showarticles/162000/1/mdf http://www.modulor.de/en/mdf-thin.html Btw: It would be nice to know your given name... sounds surely better than "Hi Monkeysarefun" :-) Michael

... and thanks to you for the fast answer! Michael

Just a question: How intense is the smell? When I open a package of lasered wood (MDF and plywood), I always think someone has started a barbeque I wonder If this thing needs a casing and some kind of exhaust? Btw this round window looks superb... Michael

Thanks for this review and the whole thread! I'm in designing kits for lasercutting for several years, but used professional partners because I couldn't afford a laser for myself ...yet Some ideas, thougts, hints, corrections etc... It's the structure of the wood. There are harder and softer parts in the wood, some absorb more energie as the other and burns darker. To get rid of this, use MDF or wood with only little grain. While styrene isn't recommended for lasercutting, PVC/polyvinyl chloride/Vinyl is even much worse. During lasercutting it produces hydrochlorid acid, which is a) not really healthy and b ) destroys your machine through corrosion. I wouldn't even try it. And, btw: Trotec is an austrian company, not an american. Maybe relevant for shipping and custom costs etc. But even their entry level laser is a good bit over 10.000 Euros anyway, IIRC. Michael

Let's face it: The ghost was summoned, maybe he's not very well at the moment, but still alive... Michael

Balvenie Double Wood 12 years old for me... the character a single malt has to have, the rich flavour of six years sherry cask and the smoothness of six years in a bourbon cask. And, of course, in a nosing glass. Maybe a "ladies whisky" for someone, but those "paint removers" (like I usually say to banter my friends) are not for my taste... Michael

Great modeling... I had to look twice at the Deutz to find out if it's model or prototype! Like the other locos also and the depressed flat car. The small traces of snow on the loco and everywhere are very convincing. Michael

Clever modes makes a Clyde Puffer as a card model download (little bit to scroll): http://clevermodels.squarespace.com/models-gallery/ A card model of a bigger freight ship by scalescenes: http://scalescenes.com/product/t030-cargo-ship/ A train ferry drawing at Gilbert Gribris homepage: http://www.gilbert-gribi.ch/GGribi/pdf/Ferry1.pdf Michael