MarkK

My power supply doesn’t get warm at all. The Cab warms up with no connection to the track. I’ve only had it a few days, I will contact the supplier on Tuesday.

At a moderate speed the Cab current draw indication is cycling between .01 and .04 amps. That's 40 mA tops. Haven't tried the Cab with nothing on the rails, I will have to let it cool first. I would expect it to get warm because it is providing track power, but it just feels a little excessive to me. It could be normal.

One Bachmann pannier tank at low speed on a rolling road.

Hi I'm very new to the NCE Powercab and I have noticed that the bottom of the throttle, from the 'ENTER' key down gets quite warm in use. Do other users find this ?

I had tried them in a model with all capacitors removed. I went through all the possibilities with regards CV's. The two Lenz chips work remarkably in the two models with factory fitted capacitors left in place. What is worthy of note is that both decoders had some CV settings differing to what the factory settings should have been according to the literature supplied. On re-setting the decoder factory defaults then appeared. Which makes me suspicious that these had already been somewhere else, although i can't prove that.

I wouldn't imagine "they all do that", particularly as other members have stated that they had operated the controller/decoder combination as I did without issue. It's sad that a major retailer who I thought of better fobbed me off blaming the issue on a particular controller. Only to purchase a popular well known second to prove it wasn't.

The decoders were recommended for the model by Hatton's themselves. On both locomotives the decoder manages approx. quarter wheel rotation before stopping. Forgive me for expecting more of them. A member has posted a video to this thread of the problem.

The decoders were the recommended items specified next to the relevant model on their website. The decoder instructions confirmed that each individual decoder was appropriate for the model they were intended. Following the first communication with an advisor, I was left with the impression that my choice of controller - 'Hornby Railmaster via E-Link' was only good for Hornby decoders and, therefore I was not experiencing the performance from their decoders as advertised. I took this on board. I invested in a NCE Powercab and found the decoders exhibited the same behaviour. I operated the locomotives with Lenz decoders and the performance is remarkable. At this point I made contact for a second time and the advisor agreed that it sounded like the decoders were faulty. They agreed to take them back up to the point I advised I did not have the original packaging, at which point they declined stating it was their returns policy. The decoders were fitted to brand new locomotives, suitably run in. I tested them on both layout and a rolling road. I have lost countless hours altering CV's to no avail. Then having read other members had also experienced the same, even seeing a posted video of said decoder exhibiting exactly the same fault, they must have at least an inkling that they have sold me substandard goods.

Just had a read through their T&C's, there is a clause on original packaging. Shame really, its only £30 - going to cost them more in the long run if I never go back. The most annoying thing is that its duff gear, and I am not alone in having experienced it. I have invested in a Powercab and Lenz decoders now and have moved on.

Hatton's wouldn't have my decoders back because I didn't have the little clear packet they came in, despite having their logo printed all over them ! Lesson learned.

I have had exactly the same issue with these decoders.

I'm so glad its not just me, in the nicest possible way. Sounds like its not all down to Hornby controllers either.

I found that Hatton's decoders were unsatisfactory with both Railmaster via Elink and Hornby select. However, Hornby's basic decoder ran without issue on either of the above. I was able to adjust what CV's were available but the running was shocking. I should point out that all locomotives were Bachmann and factory fitted suppression caps etc were left in place. They weren't removed as I found this didn't make any difference in the past. I was so fed up with the inconstancies that I am currently experimenting with home made DC control.

Anybody built one?

I brought two Hatton's decoders for two different locos and had running issues with both. Hatton's also stated that the Hornby Railmaster was the fault and that their decoders were not compatible.

Hi Are you referring to the HM2000 or the early H&M? The HM2000 I have was purchased circa 2007. Edit Just re-read your post. I’m not running DCC fitted locos on DC. I have converted them back to DC.

Morning Rob. I may be ditching DCC for DC. What’s really annoying is, a few years ago a built and programmed my own decoder which didn’t take a signal from the track but instead via radio control. It performed so well, it’s only downside was it’s size for 00. It would go into a class 25 no problem, but the small tanks I wanted to run was a no go. It would have suited a garden railway with at least a 50m radio range. I dug my old HM 2000 out of the garage last night. I hardly used it as I thought DCC was the dogs bits and shelved it. I ran my new Bachmann 4575 class with it and got better performance at low speed that with the decoders I’m using. I have an 8x2 layout and will never run more than two locos at any one time, and I’m not interested in sound, so I may stick with DC if all my other locos perform as well. I don’t run any old locos so I shouldn’t have a problem. And you are correct when you say Hattons are usually very good. However, there have been a couple of occasions recently, this one included, where I would have to question the knowledgeability of some staff. Mark

Hi Pete New Bachmann branchline steam era - none corless motors. I’ve actually tried a 4575 class on the HM2000 since my original post. I was really surprised at how smooth it started off and how quiet and slow I could run it on DC. I should have really given more info in my organically post. What I’m trying to establish is wether someone has used both DC brands and which is superior. If I can’t improve over the HM2000 then I won’t invest in a gaugemaster controller. Only have an 8 x 2 foot layout with no more than two locos running at anyone time.

Hi Rob I have been through all of the CVs. I installed another Hattons decoder into a 1F and the performance was marginally better. I contacted Hattons regarding the issue and they advised it was the e-link and in a nut shell its only good for Hornby decoders. To be honest, if I am going to carry on down the DCC route I am going to have to get a decent controller such as the powercab etc. The unreliability is such a frustration. Mark

One for the stalwart DC camp, which controller offers best slow running performance, gaugemaster or HM2000?

Looks like it’s the e-link that’s not playing ball.

Thanks Ray

Hi Thanks for the reply. The other loco is hard wired unfortunately and I don’t have a spare to substitute. It does have the caps in place. Do you think they might be the issue ?

I have just installed a Hattons 8-pin decoder into a Bachmann 4575 class. Nothing complicated, just plug and play. The loco runs perfectly on DC and I ran it in for at least one hour in each direction at a moderate speed. However, after to switching to DC the loco wants to make 3 or 4 quarter wheel turns and then stops dead. If I am lucky it may travel a short distance every now and again. This behavior is consistent both on track and a separate rolling road. Just a little more background info - I am using a Hornby E-link controller via Railmaster. I have another loco with a Hornby chip that runs without fault under the same control. Does anyone have any ideas, because I am just about ready to bounce it off the wall ! Mark

With regard the attached, the two red spots represent signals. Would signals sited here be enough to protect the points for this set up?