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o gauge nut

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Posts posted by o gauge nut

  1.  its had 3 coats now  with a spot of orange and looks much better will take pictures tomoz as i will leave to harden now for 24 hours before i mask up and do the blue .

    what masking tape do you use ?.i was thinking of  normal masking tape from the local motorparts shop .

     the other loco in the picture has a zimo xl sound decoder fitted and im pleased with it but thinking of upgrading the speaker   will check out with swd   there esu L decoder in the week and get one ordered  i think so i can get it all done at the same time to save taking it all appart again after.

  2. thanks for the tip vin but already primed the loco before i picked this up

    and have done a couple of thin coats of yellow on the end so far  using 202 but still looks very yellow compaired to the Heljan model

    so going to add a very small amount of orange to the next mix and see if that will  match better  will test on plasticard  sample first of course 

    post-28282-0-68720100-1455461738_thumb.jpg

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    • Like 1
  3. Hi Terry,

    Removing one motor from each and fitting a decoder will work, as the peak current on a Heljan motor (stall current is less than 1.1A). Are you wanting them detailed and weathered or just a respray?

     

    Regards

    Vin

    hi vin  many thanks for your reply i wanted them just painted i think but i was after a faded blue effect but do not know if this is possable  or not  in the painting stage. i have have done a 4mm model using a white wash  but it was not perfect and in 7mm i think  it realy needs to be spot on  .

    i am not to bad with the air brush doing a bit of weathering on the chassis  and buffers ect  but its the faded look rather than the dirty look that im after.

    so if that means painting and weathering    numbering and detailing thats what i will have to go for .

     

    as for the sound i have a blue 20 with xl decoder fitted and it seems a little overkill  as the layout is only going to be an end to end 14 foot by 2 foot  and not going to be pulling rakes  of rolling stock about 

    terry

  4. hi i have a pair of green Heljan class 20s that i would love to be repainted in to br blue  

    does any body in birmingham do a good repaint at a good price  as i would rather send these  to some one who knows what they are doing than me make a mess of them as i have been after a pair for ages now and the blue ones just dont come up.

     

    also i have been thinking of removing one motor and using a v4 sound decoder ? would this work 

     hope some one can help

     

    terry

  5. Hi Terry,

    Thanks for the photos. Mine are now soldered in to the White metal bulkhead. It was the hole that the brass top hat fitted in to this that seems too large. As the parts are now firmly in place, it should never come out of centre in use. The hollow brass top hat type bearing that sits in to the top of the bogie has been slightly adapted on my loco to allow space for the cardan shafts.

    How's progress on yours coming along?

    not much progress this week finished of bogies and have been doing bits and bobs  and testing loco over points ect before i go any further  i have painted the chasiss and bogies  next job finish and paint tanks  then start back with the body  made a couple of errors with roof detail  thats rushing again .

  6. i hope you can make out by the pics still using the phone 

    as you can see i have soldered in from the bottom of the chassis a top hat bush female  pic 2

    and the male is atached to the body  pic 1

    and as you can see in pic 3 a perfect fit just needs screw and washer on the bottom and always just a smear of greece for nice smooth action on bends 

    regards terry.

     

    ps got the skytrex class 37 today of ebay just going to test it now dose not look to bad. might start a thread on it as i plan to repaint  detail add sound and weather it ..

  7. hi richard i have not yet  fixed mine yet to the body only placed in position

    but on mine they are a perfect fit as there are two top hat bushes  1 male fitted to the body as per yours and one female that fits from under the chassis and the slot in to each other perfect .

    just planing on using the screw provided plus a washer and a bit of grease between them. 

    yes soldered in place.

    hope this helps

     

    terry 

  8. br blue s  still looks good to me  its what i remember  when i was a kid

    forgot to add wiper pick ups so i have got to sort them tonight , i have been thinking all day best way to do it  as i whant all twelve wheels to pick up power .

    i have a few sets of djh wiper sets to play with . run the chassis in on the rolling road with two wires from controller and forgot all about pick ups  and think i have made a couple more mistakes in my hurry  .

  9. Crikey! I think it took me a week just filing the windows and fan apperatures!

    I found I needed to leave a fair distance for the centre wheel brake shoes as there is quite a bit of fore and aft movement in the wheels.

    It is really important when filing the Windows that you check constantly with the etched frames AND glazing material for fit. If you try to squeeze the glazing in, it will irreversibly crease. I know, it cost me £16.00 for a replacement set!! I have mostly cut my own glazing though as I don't like the DJH offering. However, I have used theirs temporarily in a few places.

    If you haven't bought your couplings, CPL are probably the best.

    From your pics, it looks like your cabs were a better fit than mine, which took hours of filing and faffing to get a really good join.

    It will be good to see another DJH 47 being built, there must be loads out there, but very little in terms of anyone prepared to share their experience of the build.

    hi thanks for the tips on the windows i have not started them yet but the shape looks realy good  on them 

    dont know yet wether to solder them in place or use glue looks very awkward to solder  and in a place were its going to realy show .

    i know i said just over a week but have been off work for the last week and been working day and night to get this far and the kit itself is quit an old one so the dies were better then less worn so i was told but still lots of fileing and rubbing down  but on the upside the white metal castings are very crisp.

    also bought a class 37 kit of the same person new  not touched  witch he purchased the same time. ordered the wheels motors ect last week and ended up buying a skytrex class 37 friday of ebay that i will repaint detail and add sound if its any good  if not i will hang on to the 37 kit 

  10. hi again could not get camera to upload so i will use my phone so pics will not be brilliant .

    this is were i am so far just finished  the bogies   still need to paint brakes and rigging then i can screw to chassis 

    still all the small detail to add to fuel tanks  and paint 

    started work on the cab detail and buffer beams today and hoping to get the finished today and prima  painted

    i started the kit just over a week ago[attachment and put lots of hours in and shes coming on nicely 

    post-28282-0-65079600-1453651091_thumb.jpg

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    • Like 1
  11. hi yes see what you mean just offered up the fuel tanks and bogie  catches 

    how did you adjust them  if you dont mind me asking .

    i am soldering the majority but some of the small detail has been glued with epoxy resin .

     

    if you dont mind i will post a few images of my progress  its no were near you standard but i am quiet new to kit building and realy having some fun trying to work out how every thing goes together  and without you thread i think i would have given up .

     

    i only intend to power one bogie  and going down the sound root and was wandering if a v4.0 decoder with two speaker would be ok  or would i still need the xl decoder.

    sorry for so many questions in one go lol

    terry

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