Right Away

Hi Mike

I generally use the "gel" type Superglue (see photo); it doesn't run all over the shop and is not quite so fast acting as the liquid products, giving just a little time for any adjustment. However, once it starts to "grab",

any movement can weaken the joint.

Another "Marmite" scenario.

If image manipulation must be resorted to it should render results which are convincing to the viewer; a high percentage of photos just shout "Photoshop" or whichever program has been used.

Injector "blow offs", leaks from locos in dire need of repair and coach heating connections are seldom represented and would add to the overall realism.

Do we stop there? Perhaps smoke from house chimneys, bonfires, vehicle exhausts.

The creativity and skill shown by the modeller is first and foremost what the magazine should portray, the ability within the digital darkroom of lesser importance.

Thanks fellas.

The point I should have made was that the gangways, as produced, appear to place the coaches an inordinate distance apart when coupled together.

In addition, to my eye they project disproportionately at the end of a rake.

One would have thought Hornby could have followed the same practice as with their excellent Stanier stock; providing alternative gangway connections.

Would any member know if it is possible to EASILY remove/unclip the "huge" corridor connections (gangways) on Hornby Hawksworth coaches or are they part of the coach end mouldings.

I modify my couplings in order that coaches run close coupled with a 1-2mm gap between buffer heads (I have generous track curvature) and am contemplating buying a Hawksworth but it looks from photographs as though those gangways extend as far as the tension lock hoop in its factory fitted position.

I would rather not resort to surgery on a new vehicle.

Thanks in anticipation.

Hi PW, hope this might be useful.

For my 1950-60s railway I drilled the sleepers using a small electric drill.

I made a small jig out of Plasticard with notches to hold against both running rails with an outside notch for the drill bit, thus ensuring the insulator holes are equidistant in every sleeper.

The rail was painted BEFORE fixing.

When dry, the insulators were slid roughy into position on the rail and the assembly then fixed to the pre drilled sleepers with Superglue.

When securely fixed, the rail paint was touched up where required.

NOTES:

*Rail ends require gentle run on/off ramps for prototype collector shoes.

*Pointwork requires special attention to prevent prototype collector shoes from striking the conductor rail side; ramps on the conductor rail side were used in practice in slow speed areas, gaps where speed was higher. (I believe modern practice utilises gaps only but I stand to be corrected on this.)

*Run an EMU over pointwork to check clearances between model collector shoes and the rail at these locations.

*Feeder cables and protection boards will give a convincing appearance.

Please see a couple of attached pics for the general idea.

I have been unwilling to incur the expense of changing couplings on all my stock, however still wishing to have close coupling of vehicles and having generous track curvature I elected to a compromise.

Utilising short straight couplers (Bachmann 36-061) as direct replacements sometimes does the trick. On many vehicles I shorten the NEM pocket by a couple of millimetres, cutting off the "swallow tail" to fit. I then drill a 0.5mm hole through both parts of the coupling and superglue a pin (0.5mm steel rod) to hold them together. This method must be modified where the pocket is part of the cam assembly used on some vehicles.

The vehicles are now very close, almost buffer to buffer and operate without any buffer locking on large radius turnouts.

On fixed rakes, a screw coupling on the last vehicle can give beneficial results.

Lastly, it's worthwhile spraying tension locks with a weathering tone which will knock back their conspicuousness.

Apologies if this post would be better suited to the Modelling Section.

I have searched through my books for photographs of ex-LMS Stanier 50ft BGs with a continuous footboard running the length of the vehicle (as represented by the Hornby) but all my illustrations show individual footboards beneath each door.

I would appreciate if some members could throw some light on this; were there variations in design or later alterations to the footboards on some/all vehicles?

I would not have thought Hornby would have been erroneous in this respect on such a highly detailed model.

Excellent example of the need for trap points.

What was the signalman doing? A red flag from the box may have averted this especially as it's on the driver's side.

Thank you, 45125

Thanks folks.

For reference, I've attached a photo of the vehicle, yet to be readied for service.

Just as PK says above, I have fabricated a "false" catch point from a siding onto a running line as a temporary fix.

Apart from being permanently set for permitted movements (which one can try to ignore) it looks fine and together with its associated dummy, to my mind is better than having no perception of runaway protection.

Would anyone know if the BO marking on a carriage sole bar is referring to its LAST or NEXT Body Off date?

There were also an SHO xxxx number with the BO date in smaller type; did SHO refer to a heavy works overhaul?

In addition to the above advice, I would definitely check photographs of the prototype of your chosen model if possible. It's so easy to overdo weathering without reference material.

As on the "big" railway, certain locomotives having one leading axle have had tendencies to be "track sensitive" to the extent that derailments occured whilst running on poorly laid or poorly maintained permanent way.

Short of relaying the suspect trackwork (probably the best solution) you may first wish to consider the following:

Do you have or have access to, any other locos with a leading truck which you can test run on your railway and see if these negotiate your track without issue?

Do the models concerned have any form of spring control which applies downward pressure to the leading axle? If so then maybe a slight adjustment may be possible to increase the force on the axle.

Well folks, having considered all the extremely helpful replies, I have eventually taken the plunge and acquired a new N class Mogul (Bachmann 32-165).

After test running on 12v DC, both forwards and backwards over Code 75 turnouts without engine or tender coming off the road I fitted a decoder. She runs very well indeed; now on to detailing.

Thank you all so much for your input.

My only gripe is the supplied instructions - or lack of! A wonderful "exploded" diagram is not overly helpful when you're left wondering what screws to undo. How on earth do newcomers to our hobby cope with this seemingly acceptable lack of instructions? Manufactures, take note!

Whilst trying to keep to the theme of this post, I have a query which I'm sure must have been raised many times before (can't seem to find a definitive answer quickly by searching).

It seems almost daft now as like many of us, I clearly remember travelling on Red & Cream stock in the mid 50's on the SR and LMR. Oh for a photographic memory!

In the meantime, does anyone know what shade/hue/colour of red was standardised by BR for the Red & Cream/Carmine & Cream - call it what you will, livery. Photographs and original cine show many variations, doubtless many attributed to the characteristics of the films and transparencies of the period.

Looking at recent TV footage of stock on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, there is a considerable difference in the red of their stock to that which I have seen myself on the Bluebell Railway, (the latter's almost identical to that used by Bachmann.) It would appear that there may have been variations in the cream paint used.

There may well have been slight variations in colour tone used in BR paint shops throughout the Regions but the degree of difference shown in illustrations would suggest a huge amount.

Rubbed very gently at the other crest with lighter fluid. This eventually removed the crest leaving just a shiny patch which I was able to hide by respraying the surrounding area and lightly weathering.

My entire steam locomotive stud ranging from small tanks to Pacifics has run flawlessly with Lenz decoders for many years.

I should point out that I don't use "sound" or "stay alive". In my earlier forays into DCC, I tried other makes but at that time they couldn't hold a candle to the German ones. Doubtless, things have moved on quite a bit since then.

Hi Mike

I made a couple of (temporary) signs from grabbing images from the RailSigns website at www.railsigns.uk/sect13page1/sect13page1.html

Reduced to scale (trial and error) in Photoshop Elements and printed on standard paper. Cut them out and fixed with Prit Stick to the models themselves which were scratch built using Plastruct.

Like many temporary efforts, they seem to be utilised on a regular basis until a finalised example is produced. Please see attached pic for general idea and scale against a 4mm van.

Thank you everyone.

I'll have a go at the other side of the BSK, then see if I can restore/disguise my earlier catastrophic efforts!

Hi there.

Ouch - your right!

I'd read somewhere that just picking around with the stick was all that was needed; hence the disastrous result.

I'd be extremely grateful to know the recommended procedure.

I am trying to remove the BR crests on Hornby BR(SR) coaches whilst leaving the underlying paintwork intact.

Does any member know of a process which will remove the BR crest on Hornby green Mk1 coaches which would not affect the paintwork?

I would also like to achieve the same with a Bachmann green Mk1 if possible without repainting.

I have very gently used a cocktail stick on a Hornby coach but this has left a shiny patch. The coach now requires either repainting or weathering to cover this mark - please see photo.

Thanks in anticipation.

It would appear that any concerns I may have had regarding the Bachmann "Woolworth" have in the main been addressed over time and that their latest incarnation of this most useful locomotive should be reliable.

Thank you all again.

Thanks for the info guys.

A Maunsell Mogul has been a temptation for some time, thwarted only by its previous reputation.

I may have to reconsider my choices. It would be useful to see a scale comparison of major dimensions, especially if quite noticeable discrepancies are apparent.

Check out colour video on YouTube "Britain's Railways Then and Now - Southern Railway".

After approximately 50mins, 35021 is seen passing Millbrook on the down "Belle" in 1965. Pause the video just as the nameplate goes out of view; looks to me to have a grimy red background.