Yorkshire Square

But that's not what he said.

I'm not sure. RL thinks he's a creditor, but subsequently says "I didn't paid (sic) any money". Both positions cannot be correct.

Word to the wise. I’d suggest anybody who thinks they might be entitled to any money to put a written, evidenced, claim to the liquidator immediately. Don’t rely on the records of DJ Models to evidence what you might be owed. Then forget about it. Go drink beer or do some modelmaking or even take the better half out to dinner. Anything other than worrying this subject like an old bone. Whatever extra you might recover by “getting involved “ will not be worth the effort and it’s highly likely you will get no more than if you put your claim in and walk away. That, I believe is the top and bottom of it.

Nearly, but not quite right. A CVL will be instigated by the directors and approved by the shareholders. The liquidator will, amongst other things, keep creditors appraised and where appropriate involve them in decision making. If you have made a £30 deposit on a model, he is unlikely to be seeking your opinion. An alternative is a Compulsory Liquidation which may be brought by a creditor (not a debtor - that is someone who owes money) who is owed over a certain threshold. In this instance there are various criteria to be met and the credit must make application to the courts. A CVL is often applied for by a company to forestall a Compulsary Liquidation application by a creditor.

How do I give you double thumbs up?

Bravo Jan! I’m always surprised at the “should I do N Gauge or 2FS or some bizarre mix up of both?” questions that pop up at regular intervals in this forum. Finetrax is okay, certainly a step up on PECO track, but is still a substantially greater compromise than 2FS. If you are a relative novice, trying to establish your own mashed up “standard” seems like a sure fire way to heap problems upon problems. If you want a decent stab at fidelity and are prepared to put some actual modelling (rather than box shaking) in, then 2FS is THE way to go.

A productive day at Derby show yesterday. Between luring punters into 2FS, the disused boiler house was fabricated and fitted. Porch, buttressed and roof were added to the church. Next up, more guttering/downpipes and weathering.

It’s not often I spend the evening carving church windows. But I did tonight and very therapeutic it was too.

Next stage of building has commenced.

Very nice. What did you use for your tiles?

The chimney pots have been added and painted. Who spotted the misaligned buttress on the front wall? This has been fudged and then weathering has commenced. There will be a small goods type shed just to the left. But I’ll need to decide what to put behind it. Possibly some painted buildings in front of the silhouettes, but in colour.

More progress last night and tonight. Rooves all done: I’ve used the Noch rubberised tile profiles. The down pipes were fabricated from brass rod and twisted wire for the brackets , the top pieces being filed up from plastic card. The courtyard paths and rough earth are now painted and the wall is taking shape. Next up are chimney pots and weathering/clutter.

Cut n shut

I think you’re right Tim. I’m also a bit concerned that they’re too dark. I do want everything to be a bit dim and grimy, but they’re possibly a bit solid.

Just when I thought this had dropped into a black hole, my interest is rekindled. I posted a few bits on the Workbench thread, but thought I ought to move back here. The tenement style building is progressing and I’ve made a start on the backscene. I’ll either cut this out in profile and stick over a skyscene, or repaint as combined backscene and sky.

Chris, all the castings in the shop 2 listings are available. The quality of the axleboxes is pretty good, the springs slightly less so in my personal opinion. Have a look at the photos in the listings and make your own mind up before ordering. But yes, they are available if you want them.

Made a start on the roof last night. As the building is low relief, I have compressed the depth of the building to bring the ridge into the build. I think I can get another layer of card on those chimneys though, toward the rear.

If you’re concerned that your stock is 3% undersized, I’m surprised that you aren’t concerned about your track being 5% under gauge.

Which also usefully mentions using 2-047 axles for re-axling NMRA N gauge wheels.

If you do go down the Finetrax route, you can still use Association wagon kits by fitting them with 2-027 which are N Gauge wheels on 12.25mm axles.

Hi John I score the glazing using a sewing machine needle. Then paint the window with enamel paint. Once it is nearly dry I polish the paint off leaving just the residual in the score marks. Hope this helps!

Windows fabbed and painted. I managed to make the “kitchen” window undersize - it’s wide enough, but too shallow! The were all a pretty tight fit, which I think is good. A dab of superglue was touched in at the rear to ensure they don’t go walkabout.

Either those buildings at the front are over scale, or the painter and decorator hired by CF (looks vaguely familiar) is an elf...

Windows 10 to make nine windows! Measuring and marking out is so much easier in these technological days. Even if my printer is a bit wonky, I can draw the fenestration to scale and then score the thin glazing bars much more accurately than when we had to do it by hand. The glazing will remain on the template to assist placement of window frames from micro strip. They will also be painted off white to match the glazing bars.

Made a start on a tenement style building for Hull Bridge. Carcass cut and glued. First layers of render applied. Windows and doors cut.