richard.h

I agree with previous posts, take a pencil impression of the rails onto paper to get a pattern for the plasticard. The only problem is the degree of curvature and the clearance needed for your loco wheels. I recently made a concrete base for my new shed and as Andy says13mm is the correct size for straight sections but on the curves I made a template from thick card which I could then put in place and trim to suit before using it to copy the final size to plasticard.

I have bought sequencers and signals from Heathcote and I found that it was easier to ring, he is very helpful over the phone and will probably be able to sort things out for you. On a personal note I originally wanted to run the signals as a linked sequence where they changed in a pattern as the trains passed through. In practise though I found the timings difficult to set up, possibly because there wasn't sufficient distance between each on my layout so I changed to individual sequencers for each signal and just set each one up with the adjustment pot underneath to match my average loco speed. They now work correctly after I bought extra ones and Heathcotes let me exchange the linked version for the individual type.

Your modelling is superb and this is complemented by the first class photography, so much so that like many others I frequently do a double take to check that it is actually a model railway. Whilst you undoubtedly are a very good photographer I just wondered what model of camera you used to achieve this, the depth of field in some of those shots is tremendous.

Hi, Thanks for the information. I used 10mm on mine so with a bit of reinforcing, possibly a second layer of 10mm on the base where it is suffering most I should be able to stabilize it.

Glad to hear that your eye sight problem is being sorted, those rear lamps are certainly spot-on. I wanted to mention Cassettes, I followed your example about eighteen months ago and started building cassette holders, since my maximum train length is eight coaches two four foot ones will make up a complete train. As I have gradually built my cassette stock they have become more invaluable as you soon realise the possibilities of stock control and train formations that can be achieved. I also left space on the feed spur to the cassettes for a Peco Loco Lift obviously to connect locos on if needed but as an added bonus I now find that the Lift left in position re-rails anything that might have accidentally been dislodged. The problem I now have is that I built a trolley on heavy duty castors with a capacity for 60 cassettes but already with only 30 cassettes in it is starting to distort, (it was made in MDF with strengthening brackets). Obviously I can build a new one to a different spec but I was trying to find details of your system first, but with 600 pages to go through its proving difficult, if you could point me in the right direction and also let me know if you had any teething troubles with your system I would be grateful.

Hi Jamie Excellent work you seem to be able to produce top quality results in all aspects of modelling. I was particularly interested in your Newsagents Shop, as I have anglicized some Walthers Kits myself but the problem I have is producing convincing interiors. When you say you used Photoshop could you explain what you use as your source material as I imagine the programme only modifies imported images.

You can use varnish with an airbrush, usually thin it out to around a 50/50 mix with thinners or water depending on type used and of course clean out thoroughly with same immediately afterwards

Stunning work. this layout just gets better, I have just been reading through again to discover how you get that oily sheen finish on your locos. Your attention to detail is great and recreating the English countryside when you live so far away can't be easy. Looking forward to more.

i have to agree with earlier posts as I'm a fan of Walthers Kits, they are easy to anglicize and you normally get extra parts included ideal for kit bashing. The scale difference doesn't really show but it can be used to advantage if you place them at the rear of the layout to enhance perspective, also most of the factory kits can be modified into low relief buildings giving you a lot of coverage for your money. I did find when purchasing them that European dealers especially German had a much better stock range than the UK so I ordered most of mine from there

I wired up my three way point using the same method as ianh and electrically all the connections are correct and work properly. However as mine is installed in a steam depot I found that I couldn't get the slow running needed as the locos stalled on the point so I then added extra wiring to some of the switch blades ( as you do when converting Peco Electrofrog Points) and this virtually solved the problem. The main reason I mention this is that the point had already been ballasted in before the problem was identified and was a sod to do, much easier if it had been prewired beforehand

Hi Just started reading through your topic it all looks very interesting so far with a lot of good ideas. I noticed your query on platform widths, I set mine at 9cms which must be about right as I later bought some Metcalfe Canopies which are 9.5 cms wide and sit perfectly on them

Excellent layout with some great features, I'm following the progress of your control system with interest to see how it develops, I use tortoises with macro routes at the moment. I have a question regarding steam haulage on a helix. The videos show the Dapol A4s with four coaches, have you been able to assess the maximum load for the A4s on the Helix incline as I think that the Dapols are heavier than other companies models so this would give an indication of the load limit. The reason I ask is that we are considering building a new layout with a helix at each end but it would be for the Steam + Diesel era

Thanks for the advice, having gone through this thread again it seems that the Bass Reflex system would be the best option for me especially as there is the excellent step by step guide which (hopefully) puts it within my capabilities

Really looking forward to this, the speed and quality of your layout building is just amazing and I always learn a lot from them.

Not sure if this the correct thread for this post but it is an inquiry about sound fitted Deltics. In the past I have put sound into a couple of my Deltics using Sugar Cube and/or Bass Speakers but neither sound throaty enough to me. I have a third one now available for conversion and have been reading about the Zimo Dumbo Speakers, I notice that some people have already used them and wondered if they would recommend them as a significant improvement in sound quality over the older systems.

The plan at the moment is to use 10mm ply for strength and lightness and fit them on rods so that hopefully there will be a fine enough adjustment to ensure that the slope is consistent over the entire length. Unfortunately as we haven't seen one working in real life its getting the fine details right that's the difficulty.

Sorry to see the demise of your layout as although you model a different era your videos and demos have been a great source information and help to me. The upside to this of course is that when you start your new layout there will be a whole new set of videos to look forward to, hopefully! As you are the only person I have seen using the Helix system intensively I wanted to ask your advice about them. One of our group is designing a layout which because of space limitations will include a four ring helix at each end going down to a storage/return area. Based on your experience are there any obvious things to aviod regarding materials or design.

Congratulations Gilbert, your dedication in providing us with quality pictures of the daily comings and goings at Peterborough North is something to appreciate. Long may it continue.