ianjeffery
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Posts posted by ianjeffery
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Hi, it was not on this forum, and i dont know whether this individual is part of this forum or not - im not going to go looking ( or say who it was ) - thats not fair. The threats were to post on various online spaces things that "would make sure no one buys your devices again". Im not out to screw money out of anyone, im not out to make shoddy goods, i genuinely found something i could do that i loved. I think i was just naive that everyone would be nice, id get to know them , build a relationship , it would be fun, wasnt out to take advantage of anyone and share a common interest - so its shocked me alot and i dont think i deserved it - obviously everyone has their opinion and viewpoint and i must respect that too. I guess i just need to figure out if i went back to it in the future, would i approach it the same way - as a friendly operation as apposed to a hardnosed business ( which isnt me ).
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hi all.
just a quick update. i decided to stop selling turntable related products due to a recent amount of abuse/upset and i just dont feel it was justified. I was making them cause i love doing it, solding boards together, writting code, interacting with customers, helping them to write arduino code, but i feel like i have just had my nads repeatidly whacked with a bat ( Boyle style from B99! ) and the amount of rudeness and upset doesnt justify going on. Never really understood why people are rude and nasty and threatening to people. dont want to be part of it.
If anyone wants help with code, or writting, or help with problems, still available to help.
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On 30/04/2019 at 17:28, bigal10 said:
Help !!!
I've got as far as Step 4 on Ray's first page, and i'm struggling.
I have Uno, and Adafruit Motor Shield V2.3 and wired that to 5v, Grnd, I/o 2 and I/o 3 as per Ray's diags, ... I have not wired Reset, it didn't seem neccesary?
I've got the Stepper Test to work fine, and I've made the DCC Decoder board, (on BreadBoard) following the diagram and Ray's photo, and all i get on the serial monitor is four rows ending in zero....
I've double checked all the bits on my breadboard using my multi meter, and all the connections seem to be ok, all giving full responses as far as i can detect, my Sprog is sending instruction to a loco on my small length of track, which is connected to the breadboard, but all i'm getting is scrolling rows of zeros on the serial monitor.
I suspect i've got the libraries and/or scripts in the wrong folders, or i'm missing bits of libraries. - for example where on earth should 'Wire.h' be? i can't find anywhere on my PC...
Any suggestions, anyone?
I could add a photo of this temp setup if required.
Regards,
Alan.
Did you get an answer to your questions ?
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On 30/04/2019 at 17:28, bigal10 said:
Help !!!
I've got as far as Step 4 on Ray's first page, and i'm struggling.
I have Uno, and Adafruit Motor Shield V2.3 and wired that to 5v, Grnd, I/o 2 and I/o 3 as per Ray's diags, ... I have not wired Reset, it didn't seem neccesary?
I've got the Stepper Test to work fine, and I've made the DCC Decoder board, (on BreadBoard) following the diagram and Ray's photo, and all i get on the serial monitor is four rows ending in zero....
I've double checked all the bits on my breadboard using my multi meter, and all the connections seem to be ok, all giving full responses as far as i can detect, my Sprog is sending instruction to a loco on my small length of track, which is connected to the breadboard, but all i'm getting is scrolling rows of zeros on the serial monitor.
I suspect i've got the libraries and/or scripts in the wrong folders, or i'm missing bits of libraries. - for example where on earth should 'Wire.h' be? i can't find anywhere on my PC...
Any suggestions, anyone?
I could add a photo of this temp setup if required.
Regards,
Alan.
Did you get an answer to your questions ?
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you paid £10.80 for a Nano ?
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On 05/02/2019 at 22:23, Simond said:
Just playing with my turntable control, as I’m installing i2c remote control, and whilst I’m at it, I wanted to stop the damn thing whining, so I started to look for the data sheet for the A4899 driver.
found this in case anyone else is searching
http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/338780/ALLEGRO/A4988/2974/10/A4988.html
It’s not ideal (at least I couldn’t download it) but at least explains the not-enable and not-sleep pins, which I have now connected to the slave Arduino that controls it. More in my Arduino thread linked in my signature.
atb
Simon
if you upgrade to the slightly more expensive TMC2208 driver, its almost completely silent, and no longer requires to disengage the "Enabled" pin...
the downside to turning off the "Enabled" pin is that the bridge can jump back/forward to the nearest whole step, taking it out of alignment. Plus its free to move, so the controller no longer "knows" where the stepper motor is.
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blocksignalling does a dcc reversing module.
http://www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/dcc-autoreverser-rev1
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just emailed you Alan.
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ah, even easier if your putting it together first - as you can drill the holes easier in the base.
if he plans on motorising it, either with DC or DCC then www.dccinterface.com have a good kit on sale.
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Just thought id share this as i had not found an easy way anywhere else...
I have a sound loco and i wanted it to remain powered through 360deg rotation of the turntable. I did start from scratch with a new build turntable, but i wanted to adapt a built one, as that is what most people would have.
The plan was minimal adapting, and all non-visual.
Sorry if this is teaching you to such eggs....
Here we go....
the first thing is to make a grove in the top of the plunger section for the wire to sit in. ( also drilled a hole to make it easier for the next stage
then i drilled a into the main plunger post at the side, into the inside of the plunger
it looks messy, but remember it will be hidden.
next, i feed some of the turntable wire in the pack down the plunger and out the hole on the side i just drilled. its best to give yourself plenty of length.
then feed the end you just passed through the new drilled hole, up and down what should usually hold the spring loaded brass thingy. Make sure the wire does not go all the way through - i still have some poking out the plunger.
you should then have this...
next , take the brass spring loaded plunger thingy and solder the end that came out the rail side of the bridge to the flat end. The idea is we will reinsert the brass thing upside down.
should look like this...
then reinsert the plunger, wire down, nobble up into the hole below the track.you can see it upside down in the hole...
now we need a 4mm brass rod, and solder the wire that comes out the main plunger part.
once done, file any poor soldering down ( :-) ) and insert into the plunger hole - helping the wire to feed out the drill hole on the side. I then used some insulation tape over the wire as it comes out from the bottom of the springy bass thingy.
Then you need to amend the collar on the table - so i then used a craft nice to cut out the bit of plastic that is usually between the two sides of the split ring - this is so i can solder the two together and not have it too raised.
i then placed a small bit of solder on the ends of one split ring, then placed the other side ends over the top ( to maintain a true circle ) and joined the two together by reheating the solder through the top one.
Then i placed if back in the turntable.I then found a 4mm ID brass collar, and soldered another separate piece of wire,
then inserted the turntable bridge in to the well, and slipped the collar on to the brass rod. Its not 100% fit ( a little bit loose ) so use a 4mm ID spring ( one the same as supplied in the kit ) to keep the collar against the stepper coupler ( not shown ).this is the end result...
i tested it and it worked really well for me.Let me know if this is useful. -
is it between the two small diodes at the side of the board?
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i cant really see where its soldered to on the picture. do you have any more?
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The positive is the blue wire. (don't ask me why, but this is standardised on all decoders)
100uF will be a little low to see an effect. I normally use 1000uF or 1500uF and if there is space enough I even put some in parallel to increase capacity. Old Lima's were a perfect place for stay alives - first they really need it because of bad performance, second there is enough space above the dummy bogie.
Try to find 25V types on the internet, for instance at Conrad (called Rapid electronics here on the island.). Look carefully at the size, there are quite some differences.
for instance 1000uF radial 25V 10x21mm 16pence (min quantity 5). For my experience it is easier to find space for 2 with 10mm diameter than for one with 14 or 16mm diameter.
By the way - no space for capacitors? See what I did 15 years ago... This was an Austrian page, but no fear it is in 2 languages...This was with a Zimo MX63 - this decoder model is long time gone and replaced by others. But my loco with the MX63 runs today like on the first day. Hats off to Zimo.
so the negative lead goes to the two small pads on the chip, and the positive connects to the positive blue wire ?
ok, that sounds easy.
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that would be fantastic.
what size caps do you use? how do they actually attach....
the manual on page 7 says "makeshift ground terminal if required between the diodes and the capacitor"... so the negative goes where, what about the positive leg ???
I have a load of 50v 100uf ones lying around.
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does this mean i can add stay alive caps to my mx600R's ??????
have you got any pictures?
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does it happen when ever you do a 180?
so, if you created a new "index" position, say 12oclock and 6oclock ( if you catch my drift ) does it still mis align?
how does this turntable work? motor / stepper motor / controller / indexer ?
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oh dear, no i feel sad again..... :-(
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Just ordered R3632 from Rails.... ( BR, Merchant Navy Class, 4-6-2, 35024 'East Asiatic Company' - Era 4 )
seems to be the lowest pre-order price so far..... £137 !
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nice write up. i cant wait to see the finished product :-)
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was the cause for the failure ever discovered? I read all the posts but might have missed it...
i swear i saw a post once about the lighting effecting the dcc signal and causing massive interference.......
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Whilst you've made 3, so you're winning, well done! There is so little being captured to which GDPR applies it's not really an issue. Sure you can exercise your right to be forgotten though!
Still perplexed by the whole thing, but intrigued by the results nonetheless!
oh my word - my work has gone CRAZY with GDPR..... !!! worth while from a customer point of view though
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i have to clean my track almost daily too - but then mine is in a garage that gets quite cold ( and a little bit damp depending on the weather )
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nice.
how are you going to control it?
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DCC Controlled (PECO) Turntable Project using a Arduino Uno
in DCC Discussion Topics (not questions)
Posted
looking at a new idea last night... instead of a physical controller, what about a web interface - so the controller connects to your wifi ( or ad-hoc wifi if you are at a train show ) and you interact with the turntable using your phone/tablet/computer. means you can have the controller far away ( these a re small, those are far away! ) but controll it anywhere....
and configure it anywhere too.