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ianjeffery

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Posts posted by ianjeffery

  1. :-)  You buy a 3d printer kit. i went for a difficult but a good one.   I actually have two of them now. 

     

    You just follow the instructions and build it ;-) 

    I have two printers of https://www.blueeaglelabs.com/ These are delta printers meaning they don't have linear axes.

    It gives them better speed, but they are much harder to calibrate then a linear one. 

     

    It's just like a stepper setup here.  It's an arduino mega with a ramps board and 4 stepper drivers.  

    Software is free and downloadable, you can Use Marlin or repetier versions. 

     

    If you can build a turntable you can buid a 3d printer :-)

     

    Bart

    Hi Bart,

     

    How much did it cost you?

     

    It looks like a kickstarter project, but do they sell them yet ?

  2. Hi Ian, 

     

    To print the thing that doesn't cost so much. in plastic this might be 2€.  It took 28 hours to print though :-).

    And it took over 100 hours to build and calibrate my 3d printer. but once it's done it just plug and play kinda. 

     

    In Designing time however this is some hours work.  Everything needs to be designed in a cad package before you can print it.

    I do it in Fusion 360. Which is one of the more intuitive ones. And it's free for hobbyists with a makers license.

     

    You can also use Scetchup from google etc. So designing it to your specific table , and to your axle and table height takes a lot of measuring and thinking. 

    You can then print it locally or print it through a 3d printing company like shapeways.com 

     

    Bart

     

    how did you build your own 3d printer??????

  3. Could I ask that you perhaps summarise what you purchased to make it work and then what code you used plus some instructions on the build and configurations to help those of us joining this thread rather late?

     

    There is a lot of advice here lasting a couple of years and I am certainly not clear on which bits have worked and which have not :( I wouldn’t want to start doing a similar project without gaining from the combined experience :)

     

    Many thanks

     

    just sent you a PM.

  4. I tried to upload the Speed Test, but got the following comment once it had uploaded;

     

     

     

     

     

    and have no idea what that means?

     

    Hi Jorgan.

     

    In the IDE, under the Tools Menu, -> Board - what is it set to? its most likely set to "Arduino Uno / Genuino"

     

    Make sure this says "Arduino Nano"

     

    In terms of sketches, PM me, or email me on support@dccinterface.com and ill be more than happy to help.

  5. In terms of stopping at stations , or sidings...

     

    you could use this module

     

    http://www.lenzusa.com/1newsite1/BM1.html

     

    which uses ASB ( i think it lowers the voltage on one rail, which you tell the decoder ( such as zimo ) to look out for, and stop when it detects it ). Once the "effected" rail gets the correct voltage again off the train goes.

     

    "A normal DCC signal is symmetrical meaning that the positive voltage and negative voltage is the same. In asymmetrical DCC there is a slight difference between the positive and negative components of the DCC signal.  This is achieved by feeding the DCC signal through a set of diodes, three diodes in one direction and two diodes in the other direction. The information transmitted to the decoder can be further modulated by modulating the time the DCC signal is symmetrical and when it is asymmetrical."

     

    you could then use something like an arduino to throw a switch/relay to restore the balance ( anakin skywalker ) and set the train off again. you could also use arduino nanos / minis and hall effect sensors to locate trains on track etc. etc...

  6. Ok Geoff, here's something to be going on with, it's not perfect yet but it will power down the motor.

     

    Add the following after:

    void backwardstep2() {

    myStepper2->onestep(BACKWARD, MICROSTEP);

    }

     

    void release2() {

    mystepper2->release();

    }

     

     

    Then after your two 'stepper2.moveTo(xxxx);' commands add:

     

    release2();

     

    Finally after 'DCC.SetupDecoder( 0x00, 0x00, kDCC_INTERRUPT ); add:

     

    release2();

     

     

     

    This will power down the motor after finding the first reference position after switching on.

    Then select a turntable road by sending a DCC accessory address. The turntable will power up and rotate to that position but the motor will stay powered while the loco is rolled on/off the turntable. Select the same turntable road again and the motor will power down.

    Selecting a new turntable road and it will power up and rotate to the new position.

     

    It's not a perfect solution but I'll work on it when I get a bit more time.

     

    Ray.

     

    Ray,

     

    Can i get clarification on this please???

     

    are you suggesting adding a release2(); after the moveTo in the BasicAccDecoderPacket_Handler method???

     

    how does the stepper motor code handle this?? are they effectively queued up as otherwise, would a release not cancel out the moveto ?

     

    Ian.

  7. Hi all.

     

    I have made my first batch and fully tested them, so for those who were interested, they are £8 + postage ( which can be a simple 1st class jiffy bag ).

     

    Ill contact you via pm for those who were interested.

     

    I have also started to create a shop on line - www.dccinterface.com which is a work in progress.

     

    I also have another design, with an arduino nano on board and headers for the ic2 interface. Not sure on price - when the boards arrive ill post a picture.

  8.  

    ........  I am increasingly being drawn to the Sprog idea too (a better investment I am beginning to think than a decoder tester) and I have used JMRI in the past via an NCE USB adapter, its just freeing up a computer to dedicate to the job that is the pain.

     

    How about a raspberry pi and a sprog - you can even get a sprog shield ( http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/pisprog.shtml ) . find a cheap hdmi TV on ebay and your almost there. The Pi3 even has built in wifi.

     

    Sprogs are great. its so easy to use and i can take it anywhere with me - so when i program my dcc interfaces ( www.dccinterface.com ) i can take a small strip of track and a sprog and my laptop and test them anywhere.

  9. I have a powercab for my main layout, and for my programming track, i have a short strip of track, off the main layout connected to a sprog. I use JMRI to program locos.

     

    i find it much easier, and there is no chance of programming the wrong train. i have to physically lift the train over to the track ( its slightly below on a shelf )

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