andi4x4

Track Shack have these Gaugemaster 8 pin direct fit decoders at £16.02 plus postage (£1 I think) http://www.track-shack.com/acatalog/8-Pin-Decoders.html

I agree with KISS principle ! I have Seeps and decoders on my 00 gauge layout, mainly because I wanted to minimize the number of wires at baseboard joints due to the layout needing to be quick and easy to dismantle/set up, and to keep initial construction simple to speed the build. (The fact that I haven't had chance to touch it for nearly a fortnight isn't helping in that respect ! ) I was also planning to make a move from PC control to the Cobalt Alpha system to give me a more traditional control panel. I was looking at quieter options for another project I have on the drawing board, which, again, will need to be quick and easy to set up and take down, and again, am looking at a more traditional control panel set up from the outset. There won't be too much wiring to do on this new project as it will likely involve no more than a dozen points in total, but, I am thinking about those wonderful connectors that Martin (Gizmorail) has used on his Chumley End layout - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/114855-chumley-end/page-7&do=findComment&comment=2609067 - they would speed things up no end !

What are the chances of connecting these modified servos directly to a DDC Accessory decoder ? My decoders will operate a dc motor for turntables, etc, and operating time is adjustable to suit the application, so, could possibly be used to limit servo movement.

Hi Paul, Do a search for "Peco Smart Switch" - a little misleading, but, it is there ! Here's the link to the Smart Switch pages on the Peco website - http://www.peco-uk.com/prodtype.asp?strParents=3309,3337&CAT_ID=3363&numRecordPosition=1 You don't specifically need to use the Peco servos (although there may be a maximum power limit), the connectors are pretty much standard across the format with almost all servo manufacturers, but, there are a couple of differences with cable colour coding. There is one servo manufacturer who uses a different pin order in the plugs, but, adapter cables are readily available from most RC outlets, and another manufacturer who uses an almost identical plug which has an extra locating tab which may need to be trimmed off if you are using it, or, again, adapter cables are available. As Brian mentioned, there are 'Y' splitter leads to allow more than one servo to operate simultaneously (in the same direction) from one channel, and you can also get 'Servo Reversers' which, when used with a 'Y' cable will enable two servos to operate in opposite directions off a single channel. Micro servos can be picked up for less than £2 each, but, beware - I have purchased servos in the past which have cost in excess of £100 each ! Tower and JP are two brands to look out for as being cheap and reliable, and, as they are commonly used in modern 'indoor' ultralight model aircraft, they should be available at your local RC shop (probably about £6 each), or from China (well under £2 each) if you are prepared to wait.

Looking forward to this , Andy ! Love the layout, going to give lots potential for freight and loco movements ! Following with interest !

You are, Sir, without doubt, an Artist when it comes to weathering ! I can't wait to see how KX turns out !

Bit of an update guys, Final track plan as below - the red section has been laid, awaiting points for the bay platform lines, blue section still an option, but, no progress has been made towards that as yet. On tomorrows job card - Lift all the track so that I can drill the holes for the point motors on the right hand board (bay junction) Fit point motors and extend wiring where necissary Make a couple of alterations to the left hand board, then, lift track and drill for point motors, fit and extend wires, etc Make a start on the platforms. In between all that, wash all my uniform ready to a return to work after 4 months off with a back injury - should be interesting !

Somebody in a model shop in Warwickshire once told me that he would often 'decant' paint from an aerosol into an airbrush pot (or similar) by swapping the spray nozzle on the paint can for a nozzle and pipe from a WD40 can. I tried it once - it works, and you can then thin the paint with more thinners. Obviously, make sure the WD40 nozzle and pipe are clean (or New) first !

Stunning job an the 58, Trev ! I presume it is a static model, or has it got a hidden Tenshodo/Black Beetle motor bogie ? Andi

I don't think it matters which type of male-male cable you use (parallel or crossover) so long as you know what you have got - you can always wire the sockets accordingly. The pins on the cable plugs are usually numbered - crossover cables will be numbered 1234-1234 when held side by side and parallel will be 1234-4321 - mirror image. Are you fitting sockets to the baseboards and the control panel with double ended cables between ? If so, I would be tempted to go for parallel cables and wiring the sockets identically, that way, so long as your cables are identical, you wont have to worry about which cable goes to which socket, or which way round it needs to be.

I did consider using flex track and starting the curve much further back along the platforms, but, I was having enough problems trying to sort out a convincing footbridge/concourse arrangement as it was and 'softening' the curve was going to massively increase the distance I would need to put between the steps and station building, so I discounted it and went for the easier (and straighter !) option ! Platforms are never really an issue for me as I have always scratch/custom built my own, and have done curved ones successfully in the past, but, on a much larger radius. I think the current plan is the only way to go, now, as, not only will it give me room as it is for a small yard, but, it will also give me an access point for expansion along the lines of red section of the plan I posted in post #12 albeit slightly modified from that. Stay tuned, Folks !

Thanks Paul ! Undergoing a redesign at the mo ! Hi Danster, The curves under the canopy frame are second and third radius set-track - I have since ripped them out and am now in the process of relaying the tracks through the station to eliminate the curves. This also means altering the two short link boards at each end of the layout, by shortening them by about 150mm, as the curved boards now exit the station boards near the front edge as opposed to exiting at the back edge as originally designed. This could be an advantage, however, as I will also have space in the top right corner, outside, the curve for a small yard of some description. Current thinking is this , with optional yard in blue

Thanks Paul, the tanks are passable at a distance - like 25 feet ! Do you apply the powders to the painted parts whilst still wet/tacky or are you waiting for the paint to dry off completely ? I should get some powders and give it a go really, my, mostly, pristigne locos and stock are going to look pretty out of place on my dilapidated and run down looking layout ( if that ever gets any scenery done

Those PCB mounted D connectors are a brilliant idea ! I wish I had had those last time I used D connectors - I had five 50-way sockets in the back of a control panel, all wired almost to capacity ! Took me weeks to solder them all up ! Do you mind me asking where you got them from ? - for future reference !

How do you get that greasy, covered in dust and dirt effect ? I saw you did the same on the 08. It looks far more authentic than any of the weathering I have seen on commercially weathered stuff. It's the texture that really sets it off. Not something I have spent much time trying to do - all I have ever done was a rake of 00 gauge TTA's I did about 10 years ago, but that just involved a little air brushing to the tank body and a blow-over with some dirtied laquer from the airbrush, and I wasn't overly happy with it. Certainly doesn't stand up to close scrutiny, unlike your achievements !

Lovely ! It still amazes me that Dapol are knocking out rtr wagons for a similar price of a good kit - no contest in my book, unless you prefer to build your own, of course ! How long is the scenic end, Andy ? Before the straight link to the fiddle yard ?

Ha ! Yes, it was a big room ! The layout boards in the first pic are 16ftx8ft and I could have got another 2 the same size in there !

Thanks Paul, looking forward to progress ! As for the Dark Side - Been there, Done that both in finescale and vintage/modern retro tinplate (Corgi/Basset Lowke, ACE, Hornby, etc) and I have to say, I prefered the tinplate to the finescale. Not much scenery gets done with the tinplate, but, there is so much more user interaction, especially with clockwork locos ! I sold it all a few years ago when we moved out of the big house - no room for it where we are now unfortunately I have to say, I miss it hugely - it is much more about 'playing trains' than modelling, though, some of those new r-t-r models from Dapol and the likes do make 7mm look more appealing again, and affordable !

Having had a little play this afternoon, I have identified a small issue with the station platforms - well, a rather large issue actually ! Having been running the Western around, I went to run it through the new crossover in the station - the one near the canopy - and discovered that I needed to cut the left hand platform back a little further due to the massive overswing at the buffer beam. No problem, I thought, I'll trim it back a bit - So having done that, I have now opened up such a huge gap that the passengers would need a footbridge to get from platform to carriages, never mind from the station building to platforms ! So, at this point, all is on hold until I figure out where I am going next. The gap between carriage and platform is far too big to live with - a good half inch where it is parallel to straight track and over an inch with a Mk1 stopped on the curve - I am currently looking at two possibilities - 1) Straighten the lines through the existing station at the building end. This would mean disturbing the 'universal' board joint at this end and I would need to make a new short section to fit between the 90deg curved boards at the left hand side to compensate for the different position of the curve exiting the station. It would also help solve one or two of the issues I am having regarding the station footbridge/concourse issue. 2) Completely redesign the station area and baseboards (bearing in mind that I am planning future loco & goods facitities), but retain the current curved boards and fiddle/storage area as far as possible. I am working on plans for both at the mo, so will post something up when I have a little more idea whats happening.

Oooo, that Class 40 has got me drooling into my Tea ! Uh-oh, what is that strange distant sound ? What does the Dark Side sound like ??!!

Thanks Bob, Just can't help feeling that it isn't quite right, though. Your wiring will all come together quite quickly once you have sorted out the diagram and colour coding - colour coding is the key ! I usually put tails to chocolate block type connectors or miniature multi-pin connectors on everything that is to be fitted under the boards, or above boards but needing underboard power connection (point motors, signals, building lights, etc). It makes life so much easier, and you spend less time on your back working overhead ! That said, my current layout has boards so small and comes apart so quickly that I could just remove the board from the layout, flip them over and work on the underside on the workbench. Good Luck, looking forward to the updates !

Looking good, is that, Martin ! Gonna be some weight to it, too, when it's full of control gear and cabling. Will it be on legs or fixed to the side of the layout baseboards ? Neat trick with the Peco switches - not seen that done before !

Well, That was something of a marathon build ! Started this on 27th Jan and have worked 2 - 3 hours on it every night since and 5 hours today ! There's a lot of parts to this building, and I still have two side buildings and the canopy roof to do 😯 Piccies - Loose roof so that I can get in to do some detailing at a later date - And with lighting - And finally, in position relative to the roof arches and footbridge/concourse ( whichever I decide ! ) I'm beginning to wonder now - is it, maybe, a little too grand for my little station ?! 🤔

Lovely weathering ! What did you use to create the green, mossy effect ?

Thanks for all the ideas, guys. I am still no closer to a decision, though ! 🤔 I needed to take my mind off it for a while so I have been working on the station building over the last four or five days (in between bouts of coughing, sneezing and nose blowing - Bloomin' Man Flu ! 🤧 ) But we're getting there now, just got to finish off the details on the cornices, friezes and columns and tile the roof - there's an awful lot of parts to this building ! I have built it with a removable roof and base so that I can get into it later to add some details - I have fitted lights to it, so it would look a little odd with empty rooms ! Photies in a day or two when finished - man flu has subsided to woman flu so feeling much brighter this evening !