Dave John

Ok, I think those lamp brackets would be a job for the blacksmiths shop. Now, I'm an electrical engineer not a blacksmith, but I have had a go in my time.  At the time that the wagon was built I think lamp brackets would be from rolled iron. Welded by heat and hammer. Way before bdms. Only as square as the anvil. 

In which case the slightly pock marked surface finish is to my eye perfect, old iron does look like that. 

Though it is your eye that matters, it looks pretty realistic to mine. 

I think these are called trumpet ventilators, or perhaps double trumpet ventilators. They were fitted to some vans to provide forced ventilation. The pics are a clipping from a full wagon drawing. 

I have been trying to find a source for some castings in 4mm scale. Tried all the usual suppliers to no avail. 

Any suggestions welcome. 

I use glue and glaze to stick textures I have printed on photo paper to a plasticard shell.  Give the plasticard a good rub with sandpaper to form a key.

Nice engine Edwardian. 

Looking at the photos the first thing I'd do is take the chassis out and give the wheels a really good clean. Treads and wheel backs, polished to a shine. 

An interesting discussion. 

Compound, the Caledonian did have a van with a single sided sliding door and sliding roof panel, built with some variation of details between 1871 and 1885. They were similar to the LNWR D32 van. As built they had a single sided push rod style scotch brake located on the same side as the opening door. 

I'd agree, a good quality matte photo paper makes a big difference. They also seem to be manufacturer specific, so maker As printer works best with maker As paper. 

These were done on an Epson printer which uses liquid inks;

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/20738-some-poster-boards/

For glueing PVC try pipe solvent weld. Any plumbers merchant will have it. 

Centre detent potentiometers are readily available Miss prism. 

Using a quality stereo audio  type and paralleling up the two would reduce any tendency for wiper wear to affect output . 

Ok, I thought you were using it to both measure and current limit. 

TIP41/42 shows Ic max as 6A , so R3 should be 2R0 or larger ? 

Just a wee tip MJI, you can get the silhouette software here ;

https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/software

This would let you have a play with it over xmas before the machine arrives. 

I know you can do all sorts of importing of files, but I have drawn all the stuff for Kelvinbank with it. Most is simple wagons and buildings so it does all I need. 

A very impressive demonstration. 

It is an interesting pic. 

Just wondering if the X in the middle is a temporary construction support which gets removed once the van is planked ? 

An interesting debate. I tend to try and go for light weathering depicting an Edwardian CR loco at the beginning of a shift when it would have been cleaned well. I'm not sure I'm all that good at it, but that is what I aim for. 

However my locos would be running through the tunnels of the GC and L&D under Glasgow, a good many miles of hard underground work. Conditions in those tunnels has been described as stygian, even with large chimney vents. Locos and carriages that were clean in the morning would be a lot grubbier by the end of a shift.  It can still feel a bit grubby travelling through there in a modern emu. 

So what we need is dynamic weathering. How about a system that blows a bit more weathering powder over the train as it passes depicting the build up of soot, oil and leakage throughout the working day ? It would cause havoc with the moving parts, but what price realism? Then you would then have to sit down with a load of cotton buds at the end of a running session and wash it all off again. 

It is of course an impractical but fun idea. Maybe someone could come up with a weathering paint that darkens over a few hours and goes lighter with exposure to UV or something? 

Anyway, just a daft thought. 

My Lidl one has lasted well, I use many of the methods described above. 

When it packs in I won't hesitate in replacing it or even spending a bit more for a slightly bigger one. 

Some good photos there Mikkel. 

The capstan is interesting , I wonder if it had the dual purpose of shunting and helping handle the barges ?

Thats an impressive bath tub chained on the bolster wagon.  Well, dunno what it actually is, but it looks like a bathtub. 

Just a thought , how about glass headed pins? I used some for the same sort of task . Easier to fix in place. 

Lots online;

Interesting. I'm thinking about a printer and watching what is happening. I'm impressed with the way that has come out. 

Heh , Tony is going to wake up to a long thread about pre grouping books. 

Now , as Tony points out you cannot really understand post grouping activities unless you study pre grouping activities. The big four were short lived compared to the pre grouping companies, much of what they did was based on what they inherited and in terms of infrastructure much still exists today. 

Anyway, how about pre pre grouping ? About time I sorted out my bookshelves so I'll give you all this one. Lovely engravings in there if you get a copy . 

Darwins first attempt at designing a shunting plank was doomed by the lack of suitable rtr pointwork  ?

The original kit was of its time, I seem to remember having a lot of hassle getting it to sit at the right height. I ended up making a new rear bogie, pivoted and sprung from the body. Not ideal, but it is solid and runs well now as a layout workhorse.