Dave John

452 was built 1900 to lot Y64. 

Lamp irons would be cabside, smokebox top and the rear one was effectively an extension of the centre coal rail bracket rather than the on the bunker rear face. Nothing on the buffer beam till later.  ( Caley cabside lamps  could show a red, white or green aspect via a rotating filter ) 

Just the westinghouse pipe on the buffer beam .

Front coupling seems to have been the single shackle type. 

The first question would be which scale and gauge are you intending to try ? 

Second question would be which rail profile do you want to build or buy track in ? 

It is a reduced shank that fits a standard 13 mm chuck ?

See pics 

Any use ? 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-masonry-drill-bit-16-x-150mm/6040v

Exactoscale ? used to do a kit for a screw link coupling with a threaded bar in the centre which you could actually tighten up. I made a pair once. Just once. Something of a novelty since putting them between two vehicles then tightening them up was beyond my eyesight even then. Now it is beyond my eyesight to even focus a camera on them . Nice on the front of a loco though. 

I did come up with a method for having both the buffers and the corridor connection faces in contact at all times, though I accept it would be very difficult to achieve on tight curves, 

Mine are at 44 inches, but I'm short. 

When I was first thinking about this I did a simple experiment. Bit of wood, say 4 foot by 2 foot ish and some cardboard boxes. I sat boxes on a table with the wood on top, then put an old bit of track and some wagons on it. A few old buildings too. 

Then I played a bit. Moved a few wagons . Reached over. Sat on a chair.  Tried different boxes. Squinted at it all. Played a bit more. 

That way I ended up with a height that suits me.  Everyone is different, easy to do a mock up and adjust to suit. 

I have bought many magnets from "First4magnets ".  Fast and efficient service , happy customer etc via the internet. 

I appreciate that you do not want to order online, but they do offer a telephone ordering service. 

They also show red in safari when using osx.

The issue is with safari not interpreting the colour profile from a grey scale image. 

If you want to correct it drag the image to the desktop and open it with preview. 

Generally it was decided by parliamentary advisors at committee stage in discussion with interested parties. The basis is clearly geographic, however there was much legal argument over the finances. 

I note that the Act was on sale to the public, price two shillings and sixpence. So buy  a copy, I'm not scanning all 90 pages in.... 

Would a Code 82 FB rail be close to correct size ? 

https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/online-store/CODE-82-FLAT-BOTTOM-RAIL-HiNi-Nickle-Silver-Rail-10-X-1-M-p128178198

Some very influential pics. 

Although I am  kinda determined to do 1/50 scale on 20mm track I am open to ideas about all sorts .

I always wash plastic sprues ( and for that matter whitemetal or brass ) with a drop of washing up liquid before starting.   If small they go in the ultrasonic cleaner , if large the sink with a sieve over the plughole. 

Assemblies are rewashed with a drop of cif to remove any lanolin traces before painting. 

Just out of interest

;

 I had a go recently with some wagon liveries. I found that choosing the base wagon colour, painting a sample and then scanning that into the graphics software to give a background colour for the white transfer paper gave passable results. 

Going back the idea of 1/50th scale metre gauge. Although I have never seen Pempoul in the flesh internet video and descriptions played a part in tempting me to have a go. 

I had a play with some ideas last summer. The locomotive, though freelance, has some French influence in its overall appearance. 

My conclusion so far is that  a 00 or EM tyre (and possibly wheel centre)  running on code 83 flat bottom set at the correct 20 mm gauge looks about right. 

Hmm, if the horse walks r>l then the "road on the chain?" goes l>r.

The gear at the rh end rotates clockwise engaging with a larger gear denoted by the dashed circle which  rotates anticlockwise.

Thus the thing moves from r>l so the horse thinks it is moving forward. 

Or more likely the horse thinks " stuff this, I'll just get off and pull the train"..... 

Bear with me for a moment while I approach the finescale debate from a different angle.  Consider a wheel. Let's say an old Romford one, 20 mm dia. This would represent a 5 foot wheel in 4mm/foot scale. Nobody would call it finescale, too fat and the flanges too deep. 

If however you stop viewing it as a 00 wheel and just view it as a wheel then it can become a component for a model which is much more accurate at a different scale. 

Over the summer I had a go at something different. 1/50 th scale, metre gauge. There are no "standards" All a modeller can do is find some prototype drawings and scale from them. Thus I discovered that my ancient Romford wheel had a tyre which was almost perfect for a 1m dia wheel in that scale. 

So, is that finescale?

A purist might argue that it isn't because there are no modelling standards for comparison.

I'd argue that since it is an exercise in thinking about scale and gauge and working as closely as I can to original drawings scaled to size then it could well be described as finescale. 

Certainly building that made me think about the way in which modellers approach the whole subject of  accuracy so from that point of view it was a useful project. Looking at components for what they are rather than what it says on the label has broadened my modelling mind, and was a lot of fun. 

Wooden barbeque skewers , seem to be 2.5 mm dia ish ? 

Ah, the airfix kits. I made a complete hash of building quite a few of those when I was young.  I won't even mention the country cottage one that I thought would look suitably rustic illuminated with a candle..... 

I then progressed to melting whitemetal wagons and cooking bits of brass to death. Shorting chassis out, burning out point motors and generally making a mess of electrics. 

Now I can understand folk being nervous about starting an expensive kit. I still do a fair bit of humming and harring before cutting, bending and soldering. But you never learn unless you have a go, preferably with something inexpensive. 

One thing I know for sure ( and I'm singing to the choir saying this in WW ) is that the satisfaction in making something yourself and learning from the experience is for me way ahead of the satisfaction from just buying something. 

I totally agree t b g .

A couple of years back I made an ambient sound generator. Some distant Caley engines from an  ARGO recording, some Edwardian sort of street sounds. Not strident loco sounds as if I'm stood next to them, just an urban ambience as if I'm viewing them from a few hundred yards away.  

Moot point anyway, dcc sound is way above my cost level. 

To answer Sir Douglas,  mineral bogies in Scotland tended to have a single shoe brake with the lever mounted up on the body . Must be on the other side in penlans photo, the brake block was always at the end door end. Hence no rh doors. 

There were hundreds of variations on the theme, lh doors one side , centre doors both sides,  end door only and bottom door only. 

I used the 136 RPM double shaft n20 with a 20 mm wheel on a recent project ( 1/50 scale metre gauge ) though that isn't far removed from 4mm in terms of wheel size. I was surprised by the motors, as described unstoppable. 

I chose to leave the 3 mm n20 axle in place and form sleeved wheels. 

Some traction tests ;

Look carefully at the signal lamp in that picture,  you can see a small lens on the rear of the lamp. That is to allow enough light  to be projected backwards for the blinder to act  as the Stationmaster describes. 

I have a vague memory of a cartoon of the seaside postcard variety in which an attractive young lady asks a station porter,

" Am I alright for Chorleywood? "

To which the porter replies,

"Not'arf miss.    Oi Charlie, there is a lady looking for you "

Odd memories....