crazynitwit

Will this 3D Printer be a Bargain ? Aldi on sale from the 19th November. Link  https://www.aldi.co.uk/3d-printer

There are many more 3d printers for much cheaper prices. It just depends on what people are willing to pay.

From my research and photos on the net... Would I be right in thinking the Dapol HIA can be converted to a Hanson JHA with the addition of ltf bogies.. Just wondered..

I think there is already a Hanson's jha. Not entirely sure though.

I'm experimenting with different powdered stuffs like crushed slate dust, coal dust, various ashes and suchlike to use as ground cover in my goods yard. These I'm spreading in thick layers over PVA then pressing them down, and I'm currently waiting for my first trials to dry.

 

I've read that the once they're dry and I've hoovered off any excess, it's a good idea to spray the surface with hairspray in order to protect it. What's a (hopefully cheap) hairspray brand that works well for this lark, or would I in fact be better off investing in some kind of proper fixative spray?

 

Also, one material which so far looks very promising is the sieved ash from the smokeless fuel we burn at home, but it has a horrible pong to it. What's the odds on the hairspray or whatever sealing the finished surface well enough to contain a smell?

You could use hair spray but Javis do a pva type glue that once watered down 50:50 and a couple of drops of washing up liquid it works well for sealing in ground cover

The original bargain hunters thread was closed down by the moderator because it kept digressing.

 

Can someone explain to me why bent loco's are bargains?

 

Please open new threads if something you want to say isn't advice on a BARGAIN.

I guess that a bent loco can be fixed and it's at such a cheap price that its worth the risk.

Marco, unless I got hold of the wrong end of the stick, Crazynitwit made them using a 3D printer.

 

On another subject I got some photos of 'EANOS' at Moorsburger (Hamburg Harburg) yesterday. The variations are staggering. No two wagons appear the same. There are common aspects to each but it is a minefield when it comes to lettering, grab handles, steps, bogies and damage. It took these photos to help with the weathering and detailing on the ones I built earlier in the year.

 

 

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You must be thinking of someone else as I don't even have a 3d printer yet.

Why not. It's the only way to guarantee good joints especially if the layout is subject to temperature and humidity changes - and most are. I agree though that it's not a skill everybody seems to master usually due to not cleaning the mating surfaces correctly or more often using too small a soldering iron..

It's not that I cant solder track it's that I dont want to.

Ltf25 bogies... Now I needed those for something, what was it I cant remember...

Where would I be able to get some of them.

My current BLT, built to ensure simplicity and reliability, has no soldered joints except at the feeds; track is joined by rail joiners.  It has been in operation for about 9 months now and has proved 100% reliable except for one or two glitches at insulfrog points where there is a build up of carbon at the closure point of the blades, solved with a bit of scraping with a small file.  My theory is that the more wiring and the more joints you have, soldered or clamped, the less reliable things are.  The rail joiners are painted over with rail colour after the track is laid, to hide them, but I reckon this has also protected them from dirt getting into the joins.  

 

All wiring is above the baseboard, points and signals are operated by the Finger Of God, and the basic principle is simplicity of installation and maintenance.  Points switch the current where it is intended to go, and I have not found any problem with locos stalling on insulfrogs; mind, I have no 0-4-0s.  Considerable attention was paid to level and smooth track joins.

I also use a point to control the current flow and from my experience Ive had very few/ if any problems with 0-4-0s or 4wdms (I'm the case of the sentinel) and it works fine. Even on the Hornby points with the large black zones. I haven't tried it on any other style of points tho.

Depends how good your soldering is, and how many ( if any) dry joints you make.

I don't solder my track

I think I know what you mean, I reckon it goes off with time especially nickel-silver you can tell brand new track straight from the factory when compared to stuff just a few years old even if it's not been used, brand new is very shiny, when aged it tends to go duller.

 

Course lot depends on the quality of the manufacturer, I've some Hornby-dublo 2 rail at least 50 odd years old still in boxes yet it's extremely bright, yet some other bits of track have aged and now quite dull, when you run your fingers on it it's very green, must be the oxide, it's the same colour you get when dealing 2p's & 1p's.

 

Sometimes you see it on the track when the rail shifts and where the chairs where are the bright bits.

 

Course I reckon it does not conduct electricity as well so cleaning is the only solution, I just clean the tops as the dirty sides become quite realistic, same with real rail sides rusty, tops when used nice and shiny.

 

I've found when used on a layout peco track goes green quite quick within a few years so I don't bother painting mine now and leave it to age.

 

Fishplates can because problem I find using a pliers just slide them back and too seems to solve dead sections of track, inside point rails are another weak point they need more regular cleaning

Thanks.

I've never heard of track going dead, usually it is a dry joint where a feed wire connects to the rail or a dodgy point. Usually the only regular maintenance needed is track cleaning which is best done with a fluid cleaner, if you use an abrasive cleaner it causes micro scratches in the railhead meaning it will get dirty quicker and become harder to fully clean.

I made that mistake when I first got into the hobby.

Quick and simple and considering my experiance, should know !

Can ye olde Lima class 33 bodyshell be straight swapped onto the Hornby class 33 or was the fixings changed at some point ?

Thanks in advance.

As long as it's the older style Hornby class 33 there shouldnt be a problem.

Looking good

Depends what you mean by dead!

 

What sort of track?

 

Most track, if properly looked after........ will last decades!

Just some Hornby set track. And by dead I mean no locomotives work on it.

Ive just finished building a new layout and the thought popped into my head.

Does track go dead over time, obviously I don't want to be digging up track 3 months after I've built the layout.

Any help would be appreciated.

Looks amazing

How would I fit kadees to a Lima class 37

What replaced the various 'Quads' as a tractor for the 25-pounder?

From what I've seen 'quads' pulled them for the majority, but troop carriers pulled them and there were a few self propelled variants of the 25 pounder.

Unable to resist a couple of BR Warwells I have in mind a couple of scenarios as to why they may be passing through Seaton Junction in the late 50s/early 60s.

1. Equipment to/from Meldon Quarry.

2. Possible M.O.D. items to be unloadload at Okehampton for use on/having completed military exercises nearby at the Ranges or on Dartmoor. (I believe the origin of the loading Dock at Okehampton was for military purposes.

 

There are some farming equipment excuses for loads of course and the 'Wells' could always be returning empty after delivery so that I don't have to have any loads at all!

 

So, for ideas 1 & 2 may I ask for suggestions as I know next to nothing about either equipment used at a large quarry or the type of light MOD vehicle/weapon or similar that could have gone to Okehampton. I'd be happy to have ideas for anything else that anyone might know is a realistic load for the BR SR WOE main line west or east of Seaton Junction, (e.g. The Broad Clyst Sleeper Depot Departmental Shunter going to/coming from Eastleigh).

Many thanks in anticipation.

Phil

You could use 105mm field gun. I know its not much to go on but there were a few variants around in the 50s/60s.

Thanks. That will make it a lot easier to do.

Finally got another lunch hour when I could do something. Thanks to Stubby for the advise with the mock up of the Fishermens Shed.

 

Photos of todays progress:

 

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The building is too small, so it's back to the drawing board. Is there a free CAD program out there that might help with the building design, rather than Paint?

 

Cheers for now.

Try freecad, it takes a little getting used to but it's quite useful.

Glad I could be of some help , I can see from your layout blog you were thinking of using some Walthers kits , while I agree they are very impressive I would recommend you get a couple of packs of Wills sheets and some Plastruct girder and see what you can come up with . It would be a lot cheaper and results in something a bit more individual.

I ended up building a platform for the box wagons and using the backscene as the frontage to the warehouse.

Ah yeah well now you've asked the big question..........

 

The answer is that I had to guess it to some degree. The reason for guessing it is that the European wagons I build are mounted on UK OO gauge bogies, which is obviously a major compromise to start with. OO gauge not the European wagons. I did stand next to one at Onsabruck once and took a photo, then scaled roughly off my bag which was in the photo, then converted it to 4mm or sort of 4mm. The key is it has to fit the plastic waste pipe (look under your sink) which forms the core of the wagon, which is 35.6mm O/D. Then you have to add the thickness of the styrene sheet and the ribs and the tissue paper. With possibly finally a few microns for the paint finish.....

 

Massive guess work and plenty of compromise but IMHO, in the final analysis, it just has to 'look right'. Sadly I only got round to building one of this type. Then luckily some two years later along comes the Modern Wagon Drawings book, and a similar wagon is in there. Highly recommend the book. Ask Marco his opinion of the book.....,

So to build one I just need to do a lot of guessing. May I ask a couple of questions though.

1: how long is the pipe in the smaller of the two wagons?

2: do you scratch build the chassis or buy it?

I would certainly hope so...

When I posted that suggestion it seemed okay, but afterward it occurred to me that it probably wouldn't work.

Does anyone else scratch build modern wagons? I have built a couple of hundred over the years, nothing proto typical, just generic, European style wagons. 4mm ish.

 

There are numerous variations of box opens, flats, tanks and covered wagons, usually built in batches.

 

The basic build is styrene sheet, Evergreen strips and brass and white metal fittings. The bogies are Bachmann picked up in bulk on eBay some years back.

 

I've never really seen anyone else interested in this kind of scratch building. I have loads of pictures of the various wagons etc. it would be good to get some feed back and also some fresh ideas. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

Where did you get the measurements from that smaller db tarpaulin wagon.