Bucoops

It was a typo but I thought it was mildly amusing so left it

The N7 reminds me of my childhood, being behind 69621 on the shuttles it did when it was actually running on the mainline in preservation. I then also went behind it in the quadarts at the north Norfolk a bit more recently.

Getting the roof right is proving interesting. It's nearly flat on top with a tighter radius to the sides. And the half-etched rain gutter guides have meant that the area inside that arc are flat compared to the rest of the roof.

And just for good measure, I've only just noticed that the cab front and back walls are about 0.5mm lower than the sides so there's a gap.

Lowering the sides without taking off the fold over roof mounting tabs isn't really feasible so  think I need to raise the front and back walls a smidge. I have an idea for that.

Really need to reduce the bunker back wall height too.

hi John,

Thank you for the kind words - it means a lot to get it from such established modellers. I can be pretty dogged when it come to trying to get something. I keep forgetting to try but will keep going until I get somewhere (ref. Coopercraft refund!).

I'm quite keen to crack on with a whitemetal kit - I have the class 15 of course but don't really want three on the go (even though I have started it). Next time I get stuck on the N7 I'll be getting some more of the A1 done. No excuses now that I have wheels and brakes!

It's taking me forever to fettle the brass castings for the N7. I like that they are brass, but that does up the amount of effort needed to get them into shape.

The rear spectacle bars are rather over scale, but I decided to use them anyway as they are a lot more rugged than the etched alternative.

I agree....can we escalate it to a full scale argument...

This is abuse, you want 12A next door for arguments.

The sprue arrangement picture on shapeways is of the 7mm one - the one in my picrture and the annotated one is what you get.

These are the set A - I opted for the finer detail of the two material options:

On the assumption that the timescale was approximate for the next list I'm not too concerned I've not had one - but when someone gets one can they let us know on here? Being new on the mailing list makes me nervous lol

I have a delivery!

Not bad for £3.12

The handle is soldered to the shaft. And it looks like it would be the correct way for the N7 but I won't swap it - you'll barely be able to see it anyway.

Now I can put this in my J15 kit to make it complete again.

And I finally have all insulated wheels for the A1.

Thanks for the support guys

After burning fingers, brain cells and masking tape, I'm getting there:

What you probably can't quite make out is after some tidying there are some slight air gaps between the beading and the cab aperture. I did try re-soldering but got nowhere. I think I may try some low-melt in there instead. They are very small though so it's possible that when painting it fills it for me.

The beading is slightly over length - I'll trim when the handrails are in and the roof is ready to go on.

What would the "best" tension lock coupler be for fitting to kit built stock? As above for my purposes I need couplings that can be disconnected easily and remotely. I've been looking at Kadee but am still open as they are quite bulky?

Have you got colour film of the battle of Hastings as well?

 

Mike.

Was that the fight to keep the line double track?

I don't think credit cards pay out any more if paypal are involved unfortunately.

Ugh - been trying to do some of the cab side detail - starting with the beading around the cab side cutouts. There are little etched frames for the window but it says to use scrap etch for the opening above the doors. I have some half-round beading which hopefully will look better. So far I have very burnt fingers and wonky beading. Oh well - no pain no gin!

Couplings, nearly as good as good a bun fight as P4, 00-SF, EM and good old 00.

 

I am going to defend tension lock couplings for MY USE.

1. They look 'orrid, so do I so they are in good company.

2. They work for me. I am building a 8 road terminus station and I need to have some sort of semi automatic coupling that is reliable. As a one man band layout I don't want to be a Yo Yo and be constantly getting up and down  to uncouple and couple trains.

3. Can't think of any other reason than they work and I want to have FUN operating rather than being over worried about scale fidelity.

 

I will possibly remove the front one off some of the tender locos that will be turned, not sure about the tank locos. Diesels I won't do so because they are not turned.

 

I am going to be fitting three link couplings to some freight stock (and opening the wheels to EM) but this is to supplement the stock on my mate's layout Friday Bridge. A small shunting layout where scale couplings are more appropriate.

 

Horses for courses.

 

As for Yo Yo's here is a photo of my late Springer Spaniel called Yo Yo. 

 

006.JPG

Same as what I keep coming back to - in an ideal world we would have working scale couplings that don't need the hand of god - but I'm building not just for me but for my daughter to (hopefully!) enjoy. So if that means Thomas T Tank has a crack at pulling some Gresley teaks - crack on. I'm pretty much sold on a bar for the locos for tension locks to hook onto but still puzzling over how to do coaches etc. - I'm thinking at least NEM pockets so I can at least change my mind at some point!

I've got some of Guys springs already (For some Peter K 4 wheelers which is why I pondered it for these) - Guy recommended type A - Set B has J hangers for all springs.

I've put in for interest for a couple. How accurate would the ratio axle boxes etc be? Would the ones suggested for the 6 wheelers be closer, omitting the centre axles?

it sounds like i might be better off placing a direct order rather than through a supplier. I'll give that a go

I would say for wheels yes as Mark can give a good idea of availabilty on the phone.

I phoned up Mark Arscott (Markits) only last week to place an order.

 

He is, however, very, very busy. Which, rather suggests kit-building is still alive and well, at least for the time being. Remember, Mr Romford, who still does a lot of work with the wheels, is well into his 80s. 

I rang Markits on the 13th Feb (to follow up on several emails and unanswered calls) and placed my order. It was smaller than intended because of wheel centre casting issues. I now see I've been billed on the 2nd March so that's about 2 weeks turnaround. That in itself isn't too bad if you discount that I've been emailing and calling intermittently since September last year. I guess in other  words getting hold of Mark isn't easy but when you do the turnaround is good especially as I suspect some parts will need to have been made specially. I know I'm a very small customer but some of the parts were items that no-one would normally stock.

Now I just need the post system to catch up after the weather! I willingly admit to being very impatient once I've ordered something. I'm still trying to get used to an industry that sometimes works in lead times measured in days, and sometimes months or even years.

I should point out that I am very grateful of companies such as Markits etc - it's myself that needs to adapt to their business methods, not them to mine.

Rich

 

Quite often its quicker to buy the items from a retailer rather than direct, certainly for the more common items.  For instance Alley Pally is on the 24/25 and parking is both free and easy, the show is well worth going to in its own right with the best specialist trade presence near Essex. If you save up a few orders which you can buy on the day the saving in P&P more than covers the entrance and travel costs.

 

As for Markits items the likes of Roxey Mouldings, Wizard Models, Hobby Holidays and London Road Models hold stocks of the common items. To be quite honest for the modelmaker its in my opinion a not to be missed show

The problem is the bulk of what I need is wheels and everyone I spoke to (including Markits themselves) said there is an issue with whoever supplies the centre castings - and the other bits aren't really stock items elsewhere (e.g. GE brake standard).

Not planning on going to any shows for the time being - I'm only managing a short amount of time per week so not exactly forging ahead. And I would find it tough not to buy shiny things!

Markits seem to have taken some money so perhaps that means I'm finally going to get something!

I have been wondering how they have stayed afloat for years. Clueless (lack of training/interest?) staff, poor quality parts, hard to purchase etc. Feel sorry for those that will lose their jobs though.

Hang on a minute.... students got paid????!!!!

Medical experiments?

Why?

 

It's going to be high summer on my layout

Was just looking out the window and I see you're not far from me

Maybe we should be considering making snowploughs?

Maybe - that's a hideously expensive price! I suppose if you wanted hundreds of them it would be a more economic unit cost.