Softvark

Hi Brian, could I ask what sort of Kadees you are using? There seem to be so many! I've been using buckeyes on my JLTRT Mk1s but they are a fiddle and I think that Kadees would be a better solution. Julian

I'd be interested in learning about your experiences if you do this and what would be involved. At the moment the only options for a 27 seems to be JLTRT or to wait for the MMP kit to be available. Depending upon the work involved a conversion may be another option. Julian

Interesting - both my Mk1s (bck, sk) had the floor plan etch. Perhaps they were just omitted by mistake in the kit for your other ones? Julian

Looks really good Brian I agree about the HMRS lining. For the covers over the corridor connectors I had the same problem. Someone recommended using latex so I sprayed a latex 'examination glove' with nearly black paint then cut out a rectangular strip and lightly glued in place. Works well for me. Julian

I remember seeing it at Colchester zoo, I guess it must have been the mid to late 60s. Every 10 minute or so the lights dimmed to a night time scene before coming back on again. As a child I thought it was the greatest thing ever and far better than the animals in the zoo. Julian

Yes please - that would be great! I've been looking for something similar without success in 7mm. The closest things I've found which would be suitable for the lamps are some buttons which can be covered with fabric and have a push fit insert. They are almost the correct shape if you remove the insert - but not quite. Unfortunately I don't have a lathe but any insights into how you've done it would be fantastic. Julian

I love the rust under the window of the 06 - what technique did you use to do that? Julian

Good idea - I've got a box of 'examination gloves' that I use when I'm spraying which would be quick to try. SWMBO is not too impressed with me keeping them in a kitchen drawer... Julian

That's what I did - blue plus a bit of green and grey until I got a slightly dirty off blue colour that seemed to work. Julian

They are on the windows. Julian

Thanks - good suggestion. Julian

Thanks - I still need to add a cover over the top of the corridor connector. The JLTRT instructions suggest a piece of small rubber but I've not found anything suitable yet. What I did was use handrail knobs with the pipe wire soldered to them. The handrail knobs are a tight push fit into holes drilled in the body and roof so can be pulled out if necessary. The spring of the wire holds them against the white metal water filler connection in the roof. I think I had to drill into the end of the white metal by 1mm or so but that is just enough if you bend the wire correctly. It was fiddly but I can remove them if I need to get inside. Coincidentally I've just finished the MMP 35.5 ton tank - your photos are great for reference and confirmation I've got it about right! Julian

Certainly - although the build quality is not comparable to yours, Brian Here is the BCK behind a Heljan class 37. If you look closely you can see the letter rack in the guards compartment. I still need to add some weathering to the underframe but I'll do that next time I've got the airbrush out. I've added internal lighting using the warm white LED strips from Rapid Electronics which are very effective with the room lighting turned down a bit. Julian

Seconded. I've just built a JLTRT BCK and an SK and I don't think I'd have contemplated it without the HMRS lines. I did paint and line the sides before assembling though. I'm interested to see what you do with the windows as, in my opinion, they are a weak part of the kit. Julian

Fantastic - thanks very much! Where do you find this information? I've been looking for SO numbers too and it all seems very thin on the ground. Personally I prefer "In a rut" Julian

This is a fantastically useful and interesting thread. I've learnt a lot so thanks to everyone. Extending the OP question a little does anyone know where to find details of SC Mk1 coaches (particularly BCKs) that made it into the blue/grey era? I've read Parkin's book but there's only a small selection there. Julian

I've not done this in 4mm but I have in 7mm using whitemetal lamps. I drilled the lamp through the lens into the body and then drilled upwards from the base until it met the horizontal bore. I used an SMT LED and soldered very fine enamel wires to it. I passed this into the lamp through the base hole until the LED appeared in the lens hold. It was glued in place with super glue and when dry the base was filled with Milliput. I then over filled the lens hole with Carrs Liquid Glass so it formed a slight dome which the red LED shone through very clearly. It works very well and I've now made several. The only problem is the liquid glass dries clear but I guess you could put a very thin coat of red acrylic over it which will still allow the light to shine through. I'll try and take a photo to post later. Julian