Nigelcliffe

I suggest finding out how fast the new controller is at reading/writing CV's, and whether it can access high number CV's (ie. those above CV256). The old 500-series units are amongst the slowest at reading a CV that I've ever used. So, any computer link will reduce button pushing, but could replace it with endless drumming of fingers on desk waiting for something to be read. I also note that Operations Mode Programming (aka. Programming on the Main) was not mentioned in the list of new ZTC 600-series features. Alternatively, for about £50, a Sprog computer interface is amongst the fastest devices I know at reading/writing CV's. Use that for setting up locos, and use the controller of your choice to drive the trains. - Nigel

If you can attach a wire to the crossing (frog), and another wire from each of the running rails of a turnout, you have the three wires for controlling the polarity of turnout crossings. You can connect those three wires to the switch contacts provided on the Tortoise motor (there are two sets of contacts, which will cover most circumstances), or you can spend some money on a completely unnecessary Hex Frog Juicers, and wire the same three wires to the Hex Frog Juicer. - Nigel

The addressing issue is an ambiguity in the DCC standards documentation. Essentially the format/numbering of accessory packets is described in a table and in the text of the standard. Unfortunately there is scope to read the document in two different ways, leading to the off-set of 4. Most commercial systems work as per your Sprog, but a handful (including Roco and some MERG designs) have the alternative interpretation which leads to the off-set. Cost sounds quite good. Its comparable per Servo to the LocoServo boards I've built in the past. LocoServo are LocoNet (Digitrax/Uhlenbrock data bus) rather than DCC track signals for the instructions for operation. - Nigel

Sounds promising, not sure how your costs will come out compared to other published build your own devices, but more designs are always welcome. Are you aware that the addressing of accessories is different on Roco compared to many other makers? Try changing the expected address of the turnout by 4 and see if it works. There is also some toggling on/off of accessory messages which may be relevant. Not sure if the board you are using can invert the power for tortoise. If not, look up H-bridge circuits/boards to act as drive, or just operate a relay which then switches the tortoise. Nigel

Hi Giles, what batteries and charging arrangements do you use ? Reason for asking is that I used to meet a micro-aircraft flyer, and he used "Lipo" cells, but was stop-watching their use on the plane, and then stop-watching charging cycles. All of which seemed a lot of precision faffing which would easily be wrong in a model vehicle (current draw on motor in road vehicle will depend on "up hill" or "downhill", etc..). I'm getting tempted to have a go at one, the DelTang bits seem quite cheap and understandable. A small motor/gearbox for drive is easy. Steering doesn't look too difficult to arrange. regards - Nigel

Don't need to limit the power supply, it will be fine at 1.5A. The Servo4 device will only draw 500mA, so you could run three of them from the power supply. BUT.... You need a setup device as well to use the Servo4, or it does nothing. The cheapest setup device is a serial lead to your computer (assuming it has a serial port, or you have a suitable USB-Serial adaptor). Once the settings have been made, disconnect the lead and done. This requires some software running on a PC to make the settings. Various options exist on the MERG website, and one day they will have the stuff properly organised so it is easy to find. The other setup device is the servo-settings box, which is another MERG kit. This is a stand-alone box of gubbins which you temporarily connect to the Servo4 to make the changes. There is another way, but only for the somewhat insane... The PIC (processor) can be programmed with the settings required directly into its EPROM. Requires a PIC programmer. The other two options are a lot more sensible and cheaper ! - Nigel

The new metric worm/wheel sets should have both 1mm and 1.5mm bore worms supplied with them, so the problems of sleeving to different motor shafts should be reduced. The specification I worked out with our Polish manufacturer included both bore sizes, and I expect the shop is sticking with that specification. - Nigel

I'm no longer on the committee, and the existance of the Langridge models came to light after the last AGM. But, I doubt that the Association could or should look after them. Some years ago, I recall you telling me that museums need disposal policies before acquisition policies. We have neither and are not in any sense set up to be a museum - we have a real problem looking after our own archives (box of stuff which never sees the light of day), let alone adding to them. Perhaps a member with interest in historic artifacts might be interested in looking after them, that's a different matter. - Nigel

I expect it will work on any ethernet connection unless Roco have been unbelievably perverse in the way its designed. I suspect the Z21 just requests an IP address from the router, much like most computers, iPads, etc.. - Nigel

The stand is not going to run out on Sunday. As I have more copies of the book than anyone else (~800 copies stacked up), I can be very confident in that statement. So no need to give Jerry more things to do and more things to be confused at the stand. - Nigel

Before you start, you may want to check the availability of spare parts. If it reprofiling goes wrong, you have wheels which don't work with N or 2FS. You've picked a difficult starting place for a conversion or re-chassis. Outside valve gear and lots of wheels usually makes things complicated. - Nigel

As Chris says, theory tells us about thrust bearings or other couplings between worm and motor. Practise tells me that in small locos it doesn't matter. My DY1 has done a fair amount of running in the ten or so years since it was built, though it doesn't do Copenhagen Fields mileages. The DY1 is on its original Faulhaber motor, worm direct on motor shaft. Other locos have similar arrangement but fewer years running. - Nigel

Could be anything on the RH side. So, do it methodically, turn the RH rod over and fit the rear crank hole over centre axle, centre hole on rear axle. Study what happens. Now put front crank hole on centre axle, centre hole on front axle. Study again. Then decide where the tight spot lies. It really is worth getting the article mentioned ! Before you cut anything check the crankpins very carefully for perpendicular to wheel and, if you can, crank throw. - Nigel

Its time for systematic checking to find where the tight spot may be. The cause could be rod holes needing slightly enlarging, or it might be a bent (or mis-aligned) crankpin in a wheel. The latter isn't common, but it is also not totally unknown in 2mm wheel production. Rod setting is covered in an article in the April 1995 magazine (backnumber archive!). I think its repeated in one of the booklets, possible the split-frame chassis booklet. The basics are to remove the rods, turn them over and refit so the loco is a 2-4-0, study whether there is a tight spot with the 2-4-0. Now repeat again as a 0-4-2. I'd expect a small enlargement of a rod hole is what's needed. But, which direction it needs enlarging is important. - Nigel

Descriptions aren't my bit. The text on the listing comes from the chief shop keeper as part of the pricelist file (product code, description, price, etc..). The spaghetti then displays the file on the website, finding any photographs or information files associated with that product code. - Nigel

Andy's description is correct. The pictures need moving.

Yes, Andy's correct on the details. - Nigel

21:1 is the 3-358. Picture looks correct to me, the highlighter on the label indicates dimensions of worm shaft and wheel bore. - Nigel

There already are "finescale Brio" couplings; there pictured on the older of the banners which accompany the PR stand, towards the bottom. Invented by one of the East Anglian Wheel Elves. - Nigel

Dave, glad to see its working with the shuffle. I might try to tweak the shuffle speed down a little further, but its a personal preference thing. Also, if you want the shuffle to work further back in the train (eg. detaching a guard's van) its necessary to increase the distances that the loco shuffles back and forwards to allow for the compression of couplings along the entire train. Final issue, anyone using a PowerCab has to either stop the train with the throttle at the end of shuffling, or alter the PowerCab's setting for when it sends stop-bits. Otherwise the Zimo loco will keep running after it has finished the shuffle. I've only seen this issue on NCE controllers. The underlying issue is complex, but if anyone really wants to know, send a PM. For under-track magnets, it needs something much stronger than the standard magnets. Magnetic fields decay at the square of distance. At track level, the gap is perhaps 2mm at most, whereas below the track, the gap will be nearer 4mm. So, that would be 1/4 the strength by doubling the distance. When I used Microtrain (Kadee) couplers on a US N-scale layout, I used Kadee O-gauge magnets, cut in half, under the track. They'd work through a thin (perhaps 1mm) wood or card base, plus Peco code-55 sleepers to the rail. Were I doing it today, I'd try a pair of modern high powered "super" magnets below the track, approximately below each rail at a slight diagonal line. One would need the N-pole upwards, the other the S-pole upwards. I'd try different sizes until I got the one which worked best. I'm not sure if a metal magnetic shunt between the two magnets (bottom faces) would assist or not, so further experiments required. - Nigel

Someone has suggested just pulling the Mathieson wheels off their axles and then pushing on 2mm ones. - Nigel

Dave, for it's next trick, program the "Kadee Shuffle" into the Zimo and a single function key press will perform the backup and pull forwards to uncouple move for the Dapol couplings.

Or, there is the much cheaper, superior running qualities and adjustments in a Zimo MX621. (Zimo is £27 vs Lenz at £35 at my usual supplier. ) With any chip there is a limit to light adjustments, and this comes in two places.... First, the lights are wired in pairs. So, turning down the "no 2 end" red lights will also turn down the "no 1 end" white lights. This can only be fixed by rewiring the loco so the lights are independently controlled by different function outputs on the decoder, and then plug-in decoders won't do the job, so its a wires and solder connection. (Situation may improve if makers move to PluX connectors rather than the 6-pin). Second, eventually at very low output levels you risk seeing the pulsing of the LEDs from the pulse wave modulation used in the decoder to dim the lights. It may be better to replace the resistors in the loco with higher values to get the worst of the light levels down. - Nigel

Ask Roco about their CAN bus. Very recently they had a survey as to which CAN to support. Their survey did not include the MERG option. Nigel

Yes there is a quick way, but it involves a fiendish machine built by a chap from the Darkest corner of Darkest Essex (I understand its called Darkest Essex because the power goes off regularly!). The machine probably breaks a few electrical safety regulations, so don't try it at home without asking a responsible person..... The machine is the hollow heating bar from an electric fire, about 2ft long, attached to a strong metal box structure. Thread rail down centre of heating element. At one end of the element is a fixed vice, fit one end of rail to this. At the other end is a vice attached to a strong spring which keeps the rail under tension, fit other end of rail to this. Pull spring (there is a lever to help with this, and a latch to hold it) so that rail is under tension. Turn on power to the heating element for a few seconds until the sprung vice is just seen to start to move. Power off as soon as any movement is seen, and the residual heat allows the rail to be stretched a little further. Release rail from both ends and use. Repeat for next length of rail. Without such a machine, then straightening is a slow process of running rail between fingers, etc.. For solder constructed track the rail needs to only be relieved of some of its curve, if the rails are soldered with the curves in opposite directions then the tension in the track is evened out. I suspect that curved rail doesn't work well in plastic track bases. - Nigel