Norton Wood

Hi John, Yes it's only my list to do, I solder the dome in place on the 3rd photo, and I have removed it as it looked a mess!! Now it looks so much better! I was thinking the joints on the tanks and around the sanders needed clean up so not to worry it's a job to do. But thanks for the help, it's all taken on board for the "To Do List" Cheers Tom

I'm back once again, This update is mainly to bring you to speed with the build... With the cab, tool boxes, backhead (removable) and other controls fitted, the loco is starting to come alive!! Sadly I have reached the stage where I have in fact made a mistake with the back of the cab(which you cannot see). However, Nothing is ever permanent and brass is so forgiving as I have found out, that I will correct the back of the cab to get the back into the right place!! It's all about learning, but thinking now, having worked on the footplate you would have thought I would have noticed this mistake, must be the lack of actual footplate work I haven't done in the last 4 months!! Once the cab was built up, I quickly moved onto building the Smokebox, the non-riveted GER early LNER type, once completed the boiler is fitted with the boiler bands and the brass strip which splits the boiler and smokebox apart...Something to paint in brass once the kit is painted!!! This then moved to fitting the top of the tanks and preparing for the cab roof and foot steps. With those things completed, a test fit was in order, sadly this was the point where I had run out of 145 solder, the cab was completed and the footsteps put in. The only major parts I could do were the white metal castings and the start of clean up!! However, I had plenty of electrical solder, this meant I could get on with getting the motor moving the loco, firstly I began with putting the loco between the lid and bottom of the box to see where the tight spots are on the wheels. I did this by loose fitting some wires to the motor then testing it, following the problems being resolved I fitted all the wiring to the pickups. After running and filing for while the loco was prepared for operation with all the axles, bearing and connecting rods receiving oil, allowing me to put the J68 on the track and ran for the first time without assistance!! I must admit for a first brass kit I was very proud, further proof will come in the form of my You Tube video's of this running in the future!! As you can see the loco is starting to look rather nice, this is how the kit now looks, as of the today ( 12/07/2020) I was kindly given the decals I require from fellow club members, which are the correct type I require for the tank-sides!! More clean up is certainly required, but I am steadily getting though it all, I should have it finished by the next part in terms of the build then it will be one big clean up job before the etched primer goes on and of course PAINT!! Anyway thanks again, Tom

It's always fun to build for friends, the good thing is we are a club, but we don't go through the formality of forming and building a club we're just a group of mates all between 23-28 so a good bunch. Thanks always nice to hear people are watching, this blog is being written after 75% of the work is completed. Right now the model is running, with all the pickup's etc I'm just playing catch up, with the blog and the You Tube video's which I am doing tied with this RM Web Blog.

Thanks John, I must admit I started with building a few wagons, firstly for friends as I wanted to get into 7mm, and at the time wasn't able to get anything in 7mm then I built the GE PO Wagon for myself. The soldering was easy, using Carr's 145 & Carr's Green Flux. If your not sure what your solder is buy some 145 from Phoenix Paints as they do the solder and the flux, I think it cost me £20 for the lot and I've not run out of flux nor solder yet although I will need to get some more solder very soon. But the 145 & Green Flux really made the job easy to do. If your not feeling confident I'd recommend starting with the Connoisseur Starter kit, reasonably cheap and the instructions are so simple. To be fair this is my first kit and it's been hard in some places and I think I have gotten a few things wrong ( In terms of the cab back wall) but it's been fine to build.

So with the last parts of my degree finished, I can give myself a few weeks before I move to pastures new... So it's worth mentioning what has happened too me since writing and planning for the Hattons A3, I had a sudden realization that getting something such as a RTR A3 would actually cause more hassle than it would be practical. Of course the original intention for the A3 would be to operate at a friends garden railway. Which is still very much the case, however, in the time since finishing my degree it has become very clear to myself that getting something smaller for a operational layout would in fact be better, the cost of owning and running the A3 would in fact be harder as it would probably spend more time in the box rather than running, in addition it has allowed me to look into investing my money into more rolling stock, as plans develop for a kit of an LNER Sundry Van or LNER Fruit Van. So, much like previous projects where I have changed my mind, which I find myself fully entitled to do! History Briefly the J68's or GER C72 Class were built in 3 Batches of 10, producing a total of 30 engines, the first 10 were built for passenger services in mind ( Fitted with Screw link couplings, Screw reverser's, Vacuum and Air breaking) and the last 20 were build with shunting duties in mind. The first 10 are where my interest lie's, as the locomotives flexibility can allow the engine to pull small passenger & mixed freight trains. The Kit What has struck me is the ability to develop these kits, looking through the instructions it is very clear that a locomotive can in fact be modified to appear in multiple different forms, in this case the locomotive can have Ross Poppet Safety Valves, Ramsbottom Safety Valves, Condensing gear and GER or LNER type Chimney's. It's very clear that attention to detail is key here, although most modelers would take this kit to the next step in development by looking to purchase extra components to adapt the model to look and perhaps operate to a higher standard. For those who follow my modelling and know my M.O. it was almost destined that I take the kit as it came and develop it further to become a better kit overall. Replacement parts This is where we begin with the first major parts that I am replacing between the kit and other small companies, in this case I have replaced the buffers from the white metal versions to turned brass & sprung buffers by Markits for GER Tank Engine Locomotives. The next major change has come in the form of the couplings, as Connoisseur produce a basic coupling for show more than anything else, however I went to H&A models and got myself some working screw link couplings. The final major part which I have replaced is from Ragestone Models, in which case we have the replacement Ramsbottom Safety valves next to there counter part and the replacement reversing wheel, regulator & gland. The only part not being used is the GE whistle which can be used for other project's in the future. Frames Any solid base for a model or even a real locomotive lie's in the frames, as per the instructions we will focus on the frames and get them to a good state before I even look at doing the body. surprisingly this was rather easy to sort out. However this being my first O gauge kit I thought right I'll take my time anyway. I am rather impressed how quickly the instructions move to get the frames together for the loco, after 4 major segments of the instructions I had the frames together and ready for major assembly. Swiftly moving to fitting the rest bar the brakes everything was rather straight forward. Body Following this the body was a pure joy to build nothing too complex other than the beading which fits into the cabsides and the smokebox but after stopping and thinking all came together rather easy. The tanks all fairly easy to put together. All in all it has been rather enjoyable to get the kit to this point. The kit is very quick moving once you reach this point Anyway that's all for part 1 I will produce part 2 tomorrow and bring you up to date as to how the locomotive looks right now... Thanks Tom

Very well done!! Always nice to see some work like that which makes a very good model look, out standing!

Thanks John, I have removed the bar, I should have realized that! But not too worry thank you that has been corrected now

I might well do, I'm certainly considering putting a realistic coal load into it. I've not seen any photographs of the wagon, but I'm of the opinion that the owner would have tried to keep it clean. As based on my own knowledge it would have made sense to keep it clean as it acted as poster for the owner and the town. As POW Sides do 2 other GER wagons I may keep them clean too. I'm honestly not sure yet. But I'll enjoy it all the same Thanks Tom

Thanks to current events,my final year at University has gone mad so work on all modelling project's has had to stop. But fortunately I can see light as I've finished my degree...Phew!! Just for a change of pace, and knowing my skill set I felt I could build and paint this all in a day, this wagon holds memories to me as it's my home town of Attleborough in Norfolk. This wagon was owned by John Park-Wick's, I managed to find a photo of him in front of his Ford Model T Pickup to take coal from the GE to the local's in the town. I believe the photo is in what is the current car park at the station, it's hard to tell but having lived and been around the station for so long I feel as if I know the station and surrounding area quite well. Anyway back to the model... The kit came nicely packed and the paint finish on the wagons sides was impressive. The kit is fairly simply to put together the only thing I had to worry about was not to damage the paint work, and to get the under frame and W Irons painted before gluing Once I had put the W Irons and wagon frame into primer it meant I could focus on putting the rest of the kit together Next was to focus on the break rigging, a fiddly but fun job, not as fiddly as the last job. And there we have it the wagon built and looking very nice! Just the buffers & couplings to go And here's the end result, I'm pretty happy with it, I need to get myself some Humbrol 100, those keen eyed will notice a few area's where filing the flash off has scrubbed the paint. Once that's finished I'll give the wagon a coat of Matt Varnish. Anyway that's it for now, until my degree is finished. Once that has happened I can begin to focus on the LNER A3! Thanks Tom

Hi Jamie, Thanks, very helpful. I have a photo of A3 2500 Windsor Lad on a Edinburgh-Aberdeen Express seen here at Princes St Gardens, I've been on the LNER Encyclopedia Forum's and a few authors to get the closest coach formation to match the photo . The last two have been more logical in there choice, as you cannot tell what they are. I ask about the A4 because I'm trying to justify getting an 0 Gauge A4 to go with the Set I am building for the A3 ( Below). Formation below: No.1 – BTK – 4 Compartment Brake - No.2 – TK – Dia 155 - No.3 – RC – Dia 187 - No.4 – CK – 1st 3rd - No.5 – TK – Dia 155 No.6 – BTK (3) Compartment Brake -

Thank you, alright I look forward to seeing what those who know far better than me have to say. I've planned to get the Hattons A3 & A4. Both planned as Haymarket engines (Windsor Lad & Golden Plover) set in the late 30's. The A4 would have done anything, as she was fitted with a streamlined corridor tender and the A3 with the High-sided Non-corridor tender.

Wow, amazing. It's great seeing modelling like this makes you feel like you are there!! I have question, what sort of duties would these engines do, for example I have an A3 ( 2500) Windsor Lad which was a Haymarket engine, I was wondering if anyone could guide me to the sort of duties and Non-corridor A3 would have been upto in the 1930's. I assume she'd of carried out expresses and worked out of Scotland into England on short(ish) out and back trips. Thank you in advance Tom

Thank you, the paint I used is, called Wood Grain. I used 2 coats and effectively painted in the grain effect. The buckles come with the kit ( pre-painted) and are based on the originals. But thanks for the comments

Wow, they look great...Not sure If I'd go into detail to make or build one of those but I am thinking of getting a larger version of the Fokker dr.1 and doing it the same way. I'll bet the Mustang looks great!

I'll admit getting the top wing and struts to the wheels connected, it was an absolute nightmare! That whole section holding the wheels to the fuselage was so hard, almost needed 4 hands to do it. But overall it's turned out really well.

Hi, The Straps come with the kit as a pre-painted/printed etching, I must admit I found it an amazing thing to see, a lot of little etching details have been added to the model. If you look at the same photo showing the straps in the cockpit you can see there's two more etched parts, at the time I had not fitted which were also pre-painted/printed Yes I look forward to getting it into the Red, my only worry is the paint may not get to every area. But we shall see how it goes! Next thing is to under coat the whole aircraft so some dam good masking will be needed. Thank you

Yeah, since finishing the build/paint job, I went with a prototypical ambush camouflage. But never-mind.

Perhaps the most famous German Ace of the Great War, Manfred Von Richthofen, or as we all know him The Red Barron! The aim is to do his Fokker dr.1 Tri-plane, in the well known Red colour scheme but there's a difficulty with painting the Red Baron's aircraft...Which one do you choose? According to various sources out there are a number of camouflages which he carried on the Fokker dr.1, too many for me to go through but for those interested I recommend a quick search on Google or look for Osprey Aircraft of the Aces No.40 ( Fokker d1 Aces of WW1) by Norman Franks and Greg Van Wyngarden. This book shows no less than 4 camouflages, it must be noted that the Baron had more than 1 aircraft as others would act as spare or to perform other duties, such as airbase visits. So with that my aim is to do the Red Baron's Red Fokker dr.1 with the white flashes on the wings, tail and fuselage. I prefer this as it split's the red on the aircraft up and the Crosses on the aircraft look far more menacing, in addition it stands out in my opinion. Anyway... To the Build; The first thing to do, was to get the cockpit together, to do this I needed to paint everything inside. Personally I think it has turned out quite well. Next was to work on getting the rest of the aircraft together which you can see throughout these photo's below. To end off the cowl, propeller and radial engine are removable so when it comes to painting it'll look the part without any issues, for those who are keen eye'd the tail rudder is not fitted, this is simply because of the paint job shown in the photo above. This'll be painted and decals will be fitted. It'll then just be painting the Baron's aircraft into Red. All for the next part. So until next time

Fantastic work, proves it can be done and it looks good. A project for me to do in the future

I look forward to your results I've ordered a Un-numbered LNER Apple Green A3 which I am using Fox Decals for so it would be nice to see how it looks once you've finished the work. Thanks Tom

Hello, Fantastic! Thank you very much! Cheers Tom

Hi, Where did you get the fittings for the correct A3 Cylinder Cocks? I've been looking and struggling to find the right place for them Thank you Tom

It can be, it's why I ended up choosing to not fill the windows with it. I applied a thin layer onto the bodyside around the window then applied the clear plastic over the top. I did find it came away in places so around those area's I applied an extremely thin piece of PVA glue not covering the window. To note at the minute I have only glazed the No.5 & No.4 coach. Thanks Tom

Maybe I can answer that question for you as I built the set So to answer your question I am using the glue, to glue in place of the glazing.

Thank you, I have 3 which are all very grubby, you can expect more grubby