WIMorrison

Before this thread starts getting completely irrelevant to daily life the adapter in use has the BSI Kitemark and the licence number - both clearly visible in the picture from the OP. You can find out what this means here

The BSI Kitemark - Service Quality Certification Mark

I also repeat that I used these devices for many years, on many devices with the kitchen appliances getting plugged in and out without a single instance of the 'issues' described above. The IT equipment that was plugged in through these adapters suffered absolutely no performance issues and one router still doesn't have any issues. The power supply for my LocoNet adapter is also connected via one of these items and also shows zero issues - and it passed PAT testing at Glasgow and Warley last year.

17 minutes ago, chiefpenguin said:

I would never use one of those nastly adaptors.

I used them for many years after I moved back to the UK. Never had a single issue in all the years I used them and the only ceased use when the parent item with the moulded Schuko plug that needed them was retired.

5 hours ago, Gravy said:

 

My bad. 18V not 19.

I have attached a photo of my z21 controller and the 18V 36W Roco PSU it came with.

 

I wasn’t aware that Roco sold this SMPS in UK however it is acceptable and is also a stabilised power supply, albeit at a lower voltage and current than the normally used SMPS which o showed earlier.

The fluctuations that you show are simply down to the loco moving around the layout, and not caused by the SMPS or the z21.

Strange, because the official power supply is 20v

10851 Switching power supply 54 Watts (roco.cc)

2 hours ago, YT-1300 said:

This goes back to 2018 so I reckon those issues have most probably been ironed out.

I bought mine in 2017 and it hasn't so much as hiccupped since I bought it, the only attention it gets in when I upgrade the firmware which I would think has been done no more than half a dozen times, and that was only to enable new features. Still using same supplied TP Link router as well - again zero issues, and cannot recall ever having had an issue since it was switched on.

The only issue I have ever had was the Multimaus losing it configuration and a quick look at the manual (after having been pointed to the relevant paragraph) fixed that issue in less than 5 mins.

I can honestly say that the Z21 is the most stable and reliable DCC Command station that I have come across, and its ability to work with almost any wired throttle, many wireless throttles, phones/tablets and a fully documented computer interface make it one of the best around - even today.

17 minutes ago, Gravy said:

Thank you Iain and John, but I'm wondering if the video is actually playing for you. I have to click on it to get it to play.

Yes it was, we know how to make a video play 😉

I see nothing wrong in that video. The power supply is steady as is the track voltage, and you are not showing any load on the system - do you have any locos on the track at all, or anything that could be drawing some current?

The current shown isn’t high enough to suggest that you are actually running anything an could simply be consumption by decoders idling with nothing moving.

z/Z21 connectivity issues most generally happen when people try to connect using their home WiFi, very rarely when using on a closed system such as supplied by Roco.

The z/Z21 will work perfectly well on a home WiFi but as the protocol used is UDP you need to have a good, stable WiFi that is not being passed through WiFi extenders and finally doesn't have too many hosts using the router at the same time. Most ISP supplied routers are very, very cheap and have extremely limited processing capability and on a busy network will see lots of packets dropped due to inability to process - not an issue with TCP, but a BIG problem with UDP.

1 minute ago, jpendle said:

"corner case"

John, the term normally used is edge case because the majority of users fall within the standard bell curve, and it is very, very few people that fall into the 'edges' with problems, hence edge cases ;)

The ip address of the router will not be 192.168.0,111 - that is the address of the Z21 and you need to enter that address into the Z21 app as the Z21 address.

The address you see on the router *may* be the phone address as 192.168.0.100, and the tplink router address will be 192.168.0.1

You have mentioned the correct addresses, but not with the correct descriptions which suggests tht you have one, or more entered incorrectly.

Also, what colour is your z21?

When you say the settings look OK, it worries me because they are clearly not OK 😏

What is the base address for your router?

what address have you put into the phone for the address of the Z21?

Have you changed the ip address in the z21?

we need this to understand what “might” be wrong 

Have you looked at the instructions?

GMC WM1

🥱

Surely at the price that these devices are it is much more cost effective to use a motor with a built in switch that changes the frog polarity?

They seem a very expensive solution for something that has already been solved for many years.

The MS480 is specified as a 1w 8Ω speaker

Successfully updated 3 x DR5000 to 3 x YD7001 this evening though one was a pain in the backside and didn’t want to upgrade, but managed to make it do it in the end. 
 

Two back with very happy owners and the third is still on the bench - I am wondering if I should make an offer to the owner as I know he only plans to sell it on eBay. it would be useful as a bench system and backup for the Z21 - decisions 😂

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Domburg-Yd7001-13193723.html

Paul,

This does seem to have been a tale of woe that has been ongoing for quite a while. It might help if you provide a summary of what is wrong to ensure you get the right sort of person offering to help you.

Bill, remember that email I sent you a few months ago? Should prove useful 😉

When I use my Multimice if I press the key briefly then the key latches, if I press and hold it releases when I let it go.

There is this reference in the manual that seems to confirm the operation I see.

3.2.6 The “FUNCTION KEYS” are used to activate locomotive functions (F1– F28, e.g. the horn on a locomotive with sound or a digital coupling) by pressing the corresponding function key for an extended time (at least 1 second). The function remains active for as long as you hold the Function Key. If you press the key only briefly, the desired function is activated normally. You select the desired status using the arrow keys. Factory setting: OFF ▪ To confirm, press the OK-key. You return to the start level “FUNCTION KEYS.

@YT-1300 Completely agree, the deep-bass sounds that are heard in real-life at distance will never be created by any sound project, though a diesel model at the Scottish Model Engineers Trust last year came close to it 😊

You don't program the button on the Multimaus, you program the function in the decoder to operate when F2 is pressed.

Living around 150m from a real steam railway (albeit heritage) I am well aware of the sounds that are actually heard at that distance and the sounds are whistles and exhaust when pulling away (and the wind is in the correct direction) - otherwise you wouldn’t be aware that there is a railway line there at all.

The distance to the real railway equates to less than 2m in 4mm scale, or less than 1m in 2mm scale - yet I can often here shovels clanking from model railways at exhibitions when they are several metres from me.

Everyone is obsessed with the accuracy of their models at the appropriate scale, perhaps if they adopted the same obsession to the sound that emanates from their pride and joy - especially at exhibitions - there would be a greater acceptance of the ‘need’ for sound as greater realism would be generated.

Have you tried either contacting DCC Train Automation (in the link provided), YaMoRC, or ECoS? Seems like an easy answer to me, though it doesn't seem have worried or caused issue for the other ECoS users using the YD6016ES

One of the really good things about iTrain is the ability to switch all sounds off in a layout with a single action or button. 
 

when helping people with their layouts this is often the first thing I need to use due to the cacophony of disembodied poor quality sound that are generally too loud is most distracting.