Philou

Sorry, no photos for comparison. Is it a perception thing? I'm firmly in the OO camp simply due to having too much stock - some even as far back as the mid-60s - and being where I am HO is the norm anyway, but at least my stock will run on their track. The perception thing, for me, is being so used to seeing the 'narrow' track, EM and P4 just looks too wide!! As others have said it depends what you want from your future layout - something up and running quickly, without resorting to having to do wheel changing, or the challenge of doing the trackwork more correctly (and wheel changing), or going the whole hog and having a pukka true-to-scale layout. I think 'yer pays yer money .........................................' Good luck and happy layout making in whatever scale/gauge you choose to do. Philip

^ As an add-on to the above: Mrs Philou and I took advantage of the sun (with thunderclouds looming in the distance) and went with one of the three dogs that we're also baby-sitting (the two had already gone out). As we were on the beach I said in my sweetest, syrupiest voice possible 'Do you think we can make a detour on the way back home?' 'Ooooh? What do you want to see?' 'A petrol station.' 'Eh?' 'Yeah, it doubles up as a railway model shop.' After a bit of additional explaining, she knew the town and she said 'Yes.' What a good egg! I had already checked the site and opening times, plus the additional travel time. It'll add a few miles and 45minutes (plus browsing time) extra travel time on a road parallel to the motorway home. They seem to have stock of static grass so I should be able 'to get some in' and maybe a newer static gun as my tea-strainer one doesn't seem to make the fibres stand on end any more. The Noch ones are up to €99 - oo-er. Definitely a good afternoon from me and from her :), Philip

I'm still about and I'm boooooored!! We have been indoors for the last week due to rain and I've no modelling with me so unable to carry on for the mo'. The sun has decided to poke it's nose out today - so at least that's a Good Thing! Don't get me wrong about being stuck indoors, but we have been out a bit in between showers. This area of France (little Britain) is very nice and we're about 1/2mile from the sea that has been very agitated over the last few days. Disappointingly no worthwhile railway modelling shops hereabouts so no stocking up for me on landscaping materials. There is one on our journey home but it means a detour and I don't think it'll pass muster before Mrs Philou! Anyway, keep smiling and speak soon, Philip

An interesting question. Until recently my collecting of stock had been just about everything and anything remotely useful in the guise of GWR/LMS/BR as no particular plan had been devised plus any new 'Oooh, shiny, shiny - must have one of them!'. As time evolved and a plan emerged AND money has become tighter, my spending has become more focused. Here is my quandry: My layout has two secondary mainline stations plus two branches all within the sphere of the GWR edging on the territory of the LNWR (later LMS) and I have sufficient stock to cover the period 1900 - 2020 (eclectic me). As I happen to like the 'older' stock, then the 517 and 14xx locos will be a want/need for my branches - especially 1401 (photographed on the Gloucester branch in black), plus an assortment of 4-6-0s (5998, 5029), 5243 (resident banker), 3809 being pushed by 5243, unidentified open cab loco (either a 517 or 0-6-0 tender loco - photo not clear enough), unidentified pannier and an unidentified 2-6-0, oh, and a railcar. That's for the one station. For the other station, I shall want a 517 (1437) in green and a brown unidentified one (photographed pulling brown stock) and for the lulz, why not a choc'n'cream one as well. 5818 shall also be wanted. Plus a number of mainline locos - an unidentified 4-4-0, 3808 (could use 3809 as a substitute or vice-versa) a 4-6-0 (loco with cranked outside steam pipes - maybe a Castle or outside chance of a King as the route was cleared for them) plus another unidentified smaller 4-6-0, an S160 (oh yes, photographed accessing the munitions dump on the branch), various oddities such as 359 and 1385 (Hilda and John Owen respectively), an unidentified 0-4-0 diesel shunter in black and W^D markings being hauled 'dead loco' to the munitions dump). These are just locos photographed on what were 'sleepy' secondary main lines serving two sleepy sleepy branches - if I am to recreate (or inspired by) what was seen. Not to forget there's all the rolling stock being tugged - ranging from pre-RCH wagons, 4 and 6-wheel coaches right through to post-nationalisation stock. I really haven't the will to restrict myself to any particular period, have too much assorted stock already and there lies MY particular problem! :)))) Cheers, Philip

Living in the same part of the world as @Andy Hayter, my UK bank transfers to a branch of my French bank were free - as in free beer. A few months ago the fees went from €0 to €10 per transfer, regardless of the sum involved - so it means that transferring higher amounts costs proportionately less. Extracting cash from a local hole-in-the-wall has always attracted a fee and using my UK card here has attracted a fee AND exchange commission - not that it has any effect on the way UK exhibitions collect their 'money'. My club here is cardless, and on days we have a show it seems most of the traders are too. Bit disconcerting for me as I rarely - if ever - have cash on me, just my cards and as I'm in a really rural area, cash machines away from our local small town are very few and far between. I did note on my last visit to the UK (visiting relatives in the London, Cardiff and Yorkshire areas) in February of this year, just how many shops and eateries refused to take cash! Just my experience, Philip

I was thinking about this overnight and wondered whether @ianmianmianm couldn't send via PM a message to @AY Mod giving the name of the club/organisers? At least Andy might know what to do with his numerous contacts - even if it's only a word in someone's ear. I think it's an awful thing to have happened. @ianmianmianm, don't be discouraged and enjoy the hobby. Cheers, Philip

I use the green wood fibre underlay for laminate flooring (not the foam one - never tried that). Although it cuts readily with a sharp cutter blade, the blade will dull quite quickly. I shape the shoulders with a bit of rough sandpaper and then glue it with watered-down PVA. Whilst the glue is drying, I hold it in-situ with mapping pins. Whilst I have yet to lay any track, I'm going to try neat PVA, and hold the track with again mapping pins while it sets. Ballasting will be the tried and trusted way of 1:1 water:PVA and a drop of liquid soap. Here's one I did earlier: ^ The fibre is 5mm thick and is IMHO, about right once the ballasting and cess has been done. Good luck with whatever method you use, Philip PS: I don't know how the thin ballasting foam ages nowadays, but years ago I bought a number of rolls for the layout and when I came to take it out of stock recently, it had all turned to dust - crumbs! =:o

Hello chaps and chapesses, I have arrived at destination - took a while as I was with Mrs Philou and her sister and I chose to use some back roads to do some sight-seeing and naturally it took longer. I do have a photo for you of what I was doing before I had to pack up my things back into the railway room (I do tend to spread out!): ^ This part of the viaduct is to become a transition piece between the Dymented part and the Ledbury viaduct proper hence I've moved off dressed stone and into aged brown brick and (insofar as I can make out from photos) blue brick corbelling and secondary arch above the brick arch. The corbelling, whilst fiddly, is doable by using two lengths of 1mm thick card cut into strips 2 and 3mm wide. These are covered in Scalescenes blue brick, glued together in a stepped manner and then topped with a piece of 2.5mm thick card cut into a strip 4mm wide. This too is covered in blue brick but I enlarged it by about 50% at the print stage so that it would fit the card and look as if it was a 'special' thrown brick for the viaduct construction. In reality the top corbel is rounded and, I suspect, of a bigger dimension. This was then glued on edge above the other two pieces. I have some aged red brick infills to be inserted in the arches, whereas the Ledbury part will be open (when I get rowntuit). I have the other side to do in the same manner when I get back. The rest of the the Dymented viaduct will altogether be a simpler affair with simple dressed stone infill between buttresses. This too, will be done when I get back. I need to find out whether Google SketchUp will allow me to print in 2D. If I can, I can print the the secondary arch onto some 1mm white card and then cut around - I don't have access to a silhouette cutter - before papering. My curved hand cuts are not terribly symmetrical and I'll have 30 of them to do when I finish this bit plus the Ledbury part! I can't wait to get back to doing the modelling. The sun is shining and the weekend is nigh! Cheers, Philip

I have an Acme Thunderer - blew it just the once very very loudly - I've now got tinnitus!! :)))) @The Johnster Would you like a map with that? :)))

Hello chaps and chapesses, I hadn't posted up as there wasn't much to say - real life is getting in the way as we prepare to be off on Thursday to do teenager-sitting - a 1,000mile round trip. I was going to take the bridge with me to do the rivetting, but as the paint is fragile and scratches quite easily, I've decided to leave it here and attend to it when I get back. Progress has been slow in dressing the viaduct - bit like wading through treacle - but a little is being done daily but not enough to warrant a photo, yet. I shan't be back until the end of the month and I doubt that I shall have much to say whilst I'm away - unless I find a model shop nearby! Keep safe everyone, Philip

@railtec-models, @Geep7 and @lezz01: Merci to Steve at Rail-Tec for the heads-up, yes, they are your transfers, but I hadn't cottoned on regarding placing them in-situ and THEN wetting them off the backing paper. I did it the olde worlde way of in a saucer with luke-warm water, let it slide off the backing paper and into place (that was the very first time like a v ......... oh no, wrong thread). The second time I put it into the saucer for a much shorter time and then presented it to the part on which it was to be applied but I didn't do the table-cloth trick - too slow! It didn't help that the bridge side wasn't really secured and as it was on its back, which is curved, the see-sawing motion ....... you can imagine. The gauntlet has been thrown and I've picked it up and the challenge is on, though I shall keep it for when I'm away next week for a few days teenager-sitting. No problem Chris, no confusion regarding the make, though I felt it would have been unfair if I'd said so-and-so transfers are rubbish when it was down to me and a slight of hand. I'd already used Rail-Tec transfers before and I was pleased with the outcome, but they were coach and loco numbers and not so fine nor long. See, I've learnt something today and perhaps others visiting this thread will as well. Lez, thank for the update regarding the tube. 500mm or half-lengths will be fine - if that's OK. PM on its way. No photo today but the card faces and cut-outs are ready and waiting for their various paper coverings so the viaduct should be ready to go back in place in a couple of days time. More later, Cheers, Philip

@lezz01 I haven't decalfix, but that's not insurmountable. (Your reply came as I was typing the reply to Andy). I guessed it was more technique than anything else. It must be over 55years since I put transfers on my Airfix models! My recently constructed kits are yet to be painted and decorated so whatever I do for the bridge will come in useful later! Cheers, Philip

Hello @Andy Hayter. The problem is that if I tape then I shan't be able to release the backing paper from behind. I don't particularly not want to do it, but is it worth it due to the viewing distance anyway? It's not quite like detail on a loco where you can it pick it up and have a closer look. I'll think about it as my viaduct isn't yet finished and I can't put the bridge in place until it is done. Cheers, Philip

Hello chums and chumesses, My rivets were done in 3 minutes - I've decided that time is not on my side and following an abject failure on my part, I'm not going to rivet the bridge. Bit of a shame as I'll feel it'll be a case of 'a ha'porth of tar .....'. I cut a length of rivets to do a part of the top web, soaked as recommended and it came off the backing paper and immediately curled on itself, made a knot and folded itself lengthwise in half! Despite having a small paintbrush and a pair of tweezers, I just couldn't get it to lie flat nor unfold so into the fire that bit went and I tried again. The next bit I got to slide onto the bridge but try as I could, it wouldn't lie straight AND an errant fingernail too a huge chunk of paint off - so that too was a failure. I've repaired the paint damage and now I'm into my viaduct - I'm safer and more sure with paper and scissors! If anyone has any idea how to lay the transfers, I'm all ears - but I have no microsol or such other aids - plain water here I'm afraid. I'll let you know how I get on with the viaduct this evening. Cheers everyone and keep smiling :( - er - :)). Philip

Hello chaps and chapesses, Still no rivets as yet, but I'm getting closer. I thought that my work output was rather low today but looking at the photo for today, it's actually not been too bad. So here you are: ^ I managed to make not too much of a hash brush painting the bridge. I'm glad in a way that I did it that way as the top coat, which was a slightly paler shade than the first coat, I dragged while painting giving it slightly distressed look. The white unpainted parts will never see the light of day when attached to the pointy end of the viaduct just behind. I shall start the rivetting on Saturday as tomorrow I'm away on council business. Behind the bridge is the viaduct that has now been completed wood-wise and is awaiting being dressed up on both sides - I did the one part ages ago, so it'll be good to see this section completed too. Despite the baulks being quite rigid, I have found that they will flex very slightly and if I have enough clearance between all the components I may still try to recreate the curve through the bridge as originally intended - the curve is very flat at about 24m radius and hardly worth worrying about if it stays straight. Probably nothing to tell tomorrow so stay safe until the weekend, Cheers, Philip

Until this thread was started, I'd never heard of GWR chocolate painted locos let alone chocolate and cream ones! Bring them on! I'll have one of each colour, thankyouverymuch. I have some Edwardian photos of the branches I'm modelling and even if they didn't exist in those colours on my particular branches, Rule Eleventy-One will apply. Cheers, Philip

I hadn't noticed that bit until just now - sorry. The small compressor that came with the preudo-Badger chucks out 3bar and blows off the airline (just push-fit) and the bigger one chucks out 5bar - but without dismantling the airline on that one, I couldn't try it. I would hazard a guess that it would blow the jar apart (only kidding). On the 5bar one, there's a label on it saying 'unsuitable for use on vehicle tyres' - eh? I only need 2.8bar at absolute maximum so I don't know what that's all about. Disappointed in the lack of spray, I went back to my retaining walls and the materials are ready to cut to size tomorrow - today was bank holiday here - so no noise, ssshhhhh. I did brush paint the bridge with another coat of dark grey (one side only) and I shall do the other side tomorrow. I have to say that brush painting does not give as satisfactory results as spray - but it'll do and I'll over-spray when the rivets are done. It's all going the right way, Cheers, Philip

@lezz01 I have a pressure adjustment valve - but it's the same problem. I can connect the two quality airbrushes to it (but not the pseudo-Badger) but I can't connect the pressure reducer to the compressor outlet (directly or via the hose). I do have a third compressor given to me by my SiL (good quality with a substantial air reservoir specially for modelling) but the hose has gone walkabouts (don't think it came back when he borrowed the compressor) and I'm under the impression that when he borrowed it back, oil got into the air reservoir - so U/S until it's cleaned and a new metric threaded hose found. I may have to buy a modelling compressor with the correct threaded hose connections. None of the warehouses around here dealing with compressors and pneumatics do small scale stuff for modelling. Cheers, Philip

The problem isn't so much the airbrush airline connector itself - it's connecting the airline to the compressor. It seems the compressors I have have threads similar to BSPs and my quality airbrushes are much finer (probably M) and non-similar diameters too. The pseudo-Badger is the only one that I can use for the time being - I shall live. Cheers, Philip

Ewwww - I'll have to go and rinse my eyes now ............................. (but does look better than the Kruger) :)

^ Why? Why such a pig-ugly loco?

I must I'm very pleased with this announcement by Dapol, who are to be congratulated in what I considered to be an inspired choice, especially as I shall need, at a minimum one 517 and two 14xx/48xx/58xx for my two branches. Definitely 1401 as it saw service on the Gloucester/Ledbury branch. Now - $64,000 question: Will I see them before I peg out? ;)) Cheers, Philip

Oh quelle frustration! Rivets didn't happen as I wanted to give a coating of grey to the bridge girders, as the rivets are white I thought it be easier to see them. That was the start of my frustration. First, clear my 'workbench', then find my compressors. These I found fairly easily. Then locate the airbrushes. I have several - one is a Badger glass bottle type that came with the one compressor and two 'proper' air brushes that I have never yet used - a Hansa and an Iwata. Finally located them in an unmarked box. I didn't want to use the bottle one as it can't be used other that horizontally due to the way the paint is sucked up - and that's when the fun started - despite having many different thread adapters I don't appear to have anything to match the metric threads of the Hansa (surprising as it's German) and the Iwata. And if I use them I need to put in an in-line pressure reducer which I have, but no thread adapter either, as the two compressors deliver too much - so all a bit hey ho. I worked off my frustration by giving a quick wash of colour over the bridge girders with a paintbrush - but it's not the same :/ . I'll try again tomorrow - even if I end up brush painting the sides. Nil desperandum and more tomorrow, Cheers, Philip

Hello chums and chumesses, Forged ahead today - in second gear. Despite having no true gauges available I decided to go ahead and not only glue the transoms to the baulks, but to then glue everything up - act hastily, repent at leisure - we'll see: ^ Transoms inserted into the pre-drilled holes but not glued. They were all trimmed back to size leaving about 15mm. I had worked out that the actual length exposed between the baulks should have been ~11mm. ^ After a major ordeal and needing four hands I managed to insert the transoms into their opposite holes. Once done and glued, the pairs of baulks with their transoms were given gravel boards at each end as extra security and were then painted. The gravel boards need another lick. I haven't as this stage buffed up the railheads as I want to give a waft of grime and possibly a coat of varnish to protect the acrylic paint as an errant fingernail is enough to scratch it. How did I keep gauge? Huh - easy peasy. I had sussed that Peco track would come in very useful and I borrowed a few pairs of sleepers from a yard of Code 75. The tops of the Bullhead rail fitted into the chairs like a glove and I slid the pairs of sleepers along the rail tops to hold the baulks at the right distance apart while glueing them. And voila! : ^ Here was the set-up prior to glueing and painting it all up with the baulks the right way up and the sleepers upside down on the rail tops. Pretty neat trick, I thought, especially as I worked it all out on my own (no doubt, NOT an original idea!). The sleepers were 'recycled' back onto the Peco track. Tomorrow, rivets! Cheers everyone and more updates tomorrow, Philip

Hi, I'm just doing a bridge deck using baulks (I assume your waybeams) with longitudinal beams under the alignment of the rails with a deck in-between. You might find this link interesting as it shows waybeams and the transoms in detail: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/64f098e0a78c5f0010c6f3a0/R122020_201116_Wanstead_Park.pdf Whilst my bridge is nowhere as sophisticated as yours (I doff my hat your way) perhaps you'd like to see my construction method from about page 40 onwards: Cheers, Philip I forgot to add that you can have a clear look at the underside of the bridge via Google StreetView.