Philou

I know, I know - Rule 1 always applies to my stock. I suppose I shall be in the market for a 92 and the full rake too!! Aaaaarghhh!!

This is all very unsettling - not my region, not my era - but the 68 looks gorgeous and coaches to boot ........... what to do ???????????

@adb968008

I assume the photo was of a unit destined for the AUS/NZ market if the destination blind is to be believed ...........

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_02/IMG_6381a.jpg.5fe316a6bda3d55766760bc0c24d6f17.jpg

Cheers,

Philip

PS: Why is it that way anyway?

Too right! I recall many years ago, having identified the ring circuit concerned, I pulled the fuse out of the consumer circuit (days before trip fuses - RCBs?), I put an insulated screwdriver with tell-tale neon in it to undo the feed screw behind only to find a big blue flash (must have touched part of the earth plate behind) and the end of the screwdriver blown orf! The twunt before me had wired the other end of the circuit into an adjoining 5amp  fuse.

Take care - it's an 'unseen' danger, electricity.

Cheers,

Philip

@ valleymodeller,

Curiosity is getting the better of me, and I have no intention of starting any debate regarding 00/EM/P-S4, or hijacking this thread, but why do modellers go for 18mm rather go the extra bit and just do 18.83mm gauge? It's not as if EM is any more 'accurate' than 00 - or is it?

Cheers,

Philip

Oh no ... I haven't lived in Tonteg since 1982. Google was my friend, though I was surprised to see that Bebb's weren't running the service. If Timbowilts is reading this, I should have added that he mustn't catch the services to Caerphilly/Rhymney or he'll end up miles away!!

Timbowilts  will also need to Google for the exact times of the buses as they are not spaced equally time-wise throughout the afternoon.

Be a sport, and say 'hello' to my brother Peter, the Lord part of Lord and Butler.

Have a good exhibition.

Cheers,

Philip

No 100 bus from Pontypridd to Talbot Green - not many buses in the morning but every 1hr/1:30hr or so after 13h00. Connects with train services to/from Cardiff (Valleys services)* either at Pontypridd or Treforest (stop near the Otley Arms). Google for details. Edwards coaches runs the service (it used to be Bebbs buses or the Nos 240/241 Western Welsh service when I were a lad and lived in Tonteg).

Cheers,

Philip

I wonder if someone will have a go in motorising it? (Not me! Oh ! )

Cheers,

Philip

Hello Tony,

My criticism was a little 'tongue-in-cheek' as it is a perennial problem when it comes to keeping the trackwork clean. Despite not having a layout at the moment, I do have a small module that I use for testing purposes (un-modified RTR - sorry), however, when it comes to track cleaning I use a standard track rubber for plain track and a very cheap pencil that has the rubber at the end, for working in the area of the frog. The rubber was hopeless in its intended purpose, by the way, as it was too hard.

When I worked in a drawing office, we had supplies of green 'plug' rubbers that were used in electric erasers (I have long forgotten the name of the manufacturer) and I had a small quantity of the leftover butts as they were too short to be used. They were just right for this sort of detailed cleansing but I have none left, unfortunately.

Kind regards,

Philip

Hello Mr Wright,

Just one minor criticism, if I may?  Why are the wing and check rails through the pointwork so highly polished? They are the parts on which wheels never come in contact. (It's not just on LB but on many, many other layouts, too ).

Nice layout and stock though.

Cheers,

Philip

PS: I have no modelling to show I'm afraid - waiting for 'the' layout to start - then I'll put photos up for criticism.

@adb968008

Could be what I was looking at yesterday afternoon on the SWR (SüdWestRundfunk) channel 'Eisenbahn Romantik'. A whole load of steam locos (all German - but I know nothing of their classes) arriving from the south via the Saar, the west via Luxembourg (Lützberg), and the south-east all meeting up at Trier. I missed the date of the filming unfortunately.

Showed an impressive few minutes of two of them leaving at the same time in the same direction on adjoining tracks and keeping at the same speed. The Rheingold went through too!

If anyone is interested the transmission is every day (Sundays and Bank Holidays excepted) at about 14:00 (ECT), 13h00 your time, BUT you will need your dish pointing to the non-UK Astra satellite (Astra 19.2E, channel 1114 (at the moment)).

Sorry Rob, hijacking again - perhaps I should have put this in the Continental section.

Cheers,

Philip

Hello Rob,

It's a GWR ex-TVR U1 class 0-6-2T loco body - on an R1 chassis - probably why it looked familiar!

Cheers,

Philip

Hello Rob and chums,

I fished out my old TTR stuff and took some pictures just to add to your 'We don't know how lucky were are ..... ' thread. The picture quality is not up to much - I don't have anywhere 'special' for photos and this time of year natural light is lacking and I was too close to the object so there's too much reflection (flare?) from the flash (willing to learn techniques BTW ).

These are the first two locos that I ever had, the blue one and then the 'American switcher'. I boo-booed in the earlier post - they came with three and not two coaches. The American ones have lighting inside them - very advanced for c.1955. Spot also the original speed controller - 14v AC output - click twice to change direction. (I still don't understand how a small AC motor works.)

I've also placed the 'Duke of Gloucester' with three coaches alongside the blue loco (on the box lid it shows the loco with 4472 on the side) just to capture the evolution (OK 65 years between them so one would expect some improvements.)

The next two are comparative photos of a Roco Pacific (SNCF 231E30) and the DoG .The Roco is tender drive with tyres ('euew') and is on par weight-wise with DoG. I have no idea if one pulls more than the other. Is the Roco loco really worth a lot more than DoG? The only thing I can think of is that there is far more external plumbing which presumably is is more costly to apply.

Just for comparison of 'WDKHLWA', here's my very first whitemetal kit that I made in 1966. Looking back it was the bees knees if you wanted something different. Look at it now - it's just wrong - where's the detail? (Three lamp-irons have gone walkabouts and the etched number plate). It should never have been lined - but that's what it showed on the box-lid - who was I to argue with Mr Wills as a 15 year-old PFY.

Rob, if you think I'm hogging your thread, just let me know and I'll delete if you wish.

Food for thought.

I will leave this on the table: Can you have as much 'fun' with the RTR of today .... mmmmm?

Cheers,

Philip

I'm not going butt-in too much, but when I was born .........(here we go again!) ...... there was still meat rationing and sweets were too! When the latter came off rationing I was given sweets left right and centre and my teeth have suffered because of that ever since.

The story goes that the day I was born in 1950, my father rushed out to by a train set, a TTR LNER loco and two coaches (0-4-0 'express' loco with tender, in blue). This was followed by a TTR american 'switcher' style loco (again 0-4-0 with a bogie tender plus head and tender lamp and two caboose coaches). A cut above HD as you could run TWO trains at any one time and in different directions. PAH! Who needs DCC eh?

I still have them and they're awful - but it's what was available at the time (Hornby might have been a tad too expensive in comparison), expectations weren't very high AND we were happy and had FUN. That to me is the important bit - fun.

I am glad that Hornby and Bachmann have upped their game because we can have something straight out of a box and, with one or two exceptions (sorry Rob - I saw you had a recent spate of duff ones) expect them to run without fuss and, minor details notwithstanding, be a fair representative of the original.

At this point in time - we are lucky!

Cheers,

Philip

Well, there you go Rob, you looked much younger in the photo! I'm sorry to hear about your bad luck regarding the motorbike crash. Unfortunately, I know three people whom had bikes and crashed - fortunately without the awful consequences that you have suffered. Me? Four wheels from the start .

I've seen plenty of your photos and 'shops' - much power to your elbow - and if it gives you pleasure - so much the better. IMHO, it IS a form of modelling whatever others may think or say.

I really daren't point you to the other thread where RTR is viewed 'differently' shall we say. 'Nuff said on the point from me.

Cheers,

Philip

I'll try and post tomorrow on here if I may, comparative photos of a continental loco (Roco) and a UK one (Bachmann), just to ask, or make the point, are we better or worse off value wise than our European cousins (arguments of HO v. OO notwithstanding)?

Get orf my lawn! I'm in the same age group (excepting perhaps robmcg above) having just had my 68th birthday recently. I'm not so worried about seeing models that in preparation before I shake off my mortal coils - rather am I going to be able to get the layout started before then!

I agree with all that been said regarding the quality of RTR.I know from 1965 onwards, I used to sell HD and Tri-ang and then Wrenn and Tri-ang/Hornby. (Johnster probably recalls the shop in Cardiff.) The stuff was dire!! Remember knurled wheels, for goodness sake. I was always a Trix man but even they went down tubes eventually (I think Courtaulds took them over just before they stopped).

Those of you looking after the pennies should consider that you (we) in the UK have been very, very fortunate price-wise. Over here (in France) a Roco loco will set you back over £350 with sound - the same (not the equivalent), the same loco was on offer in the UK for £175 (with sound!), and I don't think there is that much more detail to justify the price difference.

Coming back OT, I have noticed on another thread bemoaning that the quality of RTR has been to the detriment of kit-built locos. My kit-built stuff of 50 years ago is quite honestly carp when compared to what is available straight out of a box today - long may it continue!

Eh, ah r'mber when tha' 'ad a clip around ear and were grateful ........

Cheers,

Philip

Hi chums,

Just found this thread.

In addition to the comments by Welsh Wizard and br2974 (posts #126 and 160 above) and OP's request regard overhead and traction poles, here are a couple of pictures from Google showing one of the two Cardiff tram depôts - Pendyrus Street/Clare Road. The second one that was at Roath, was demolished a good number of years ago.

Pendyrus Street was the original electric tram shed (1902) and when trolleybuses arrived, some were stabled here until 1953 when the depôt closed to electric traction. Roath depôt was opened in 1903, to trams, and then after 1953 the whole trolley bus fleet. The Roath shed was also close to a special siding where the trams were unloaded on arrival by train. It also adjoined the Cardiff Tramway Electricity Generating station (with twin cooling towers too) - but now long gone. The power station was demolished in about 1972 and Roath depôt around 1983.

When the trolleybus fleet was concentrated at Roath, the Pendyrus Street shed was used by other Corporation services and when they stopped, it became (recently) a discotheque - appropriately called 'The Tramshed' in one part. If I recall correctly the other part is for start ups. Until recently, there was a fan of rails leading into the shed from the junction of Pendyrus Street with Clare Road. These too, have now gone.

Here are some pictures and descriptions:

CardiffTramDepôt.pdf

Cheers,

Philip

@9793

Oh go on ...... do tell how you achieve the rust finish. The only other way I've seen is using the 'salt' method. Looks cracking and I should like to learn.

Cheers,

Philip

@NoelG (and with apologies to Benny Hill),

I came over all wubbery regarding your nostalgic comment in respect of Hornby Dunlop .

(Well, I liked the typo anyway).

Cheers,

Philip

Hi all,

Just on a point raised above regarding colour light signals and the position of the red light at the bottom, my understanding was that it was so done to avoid any build-up of snow on the lens hood obscuring the light above. Red being at the bottom = no hood below. YMMV and I stand to be corrected.

Cheers,

Philip

Hello BobM,

I saw our posts crossed yesterday and I'm so pleased your pointwork was OK.

Just for guidance using your point drawing as reference, the order of ballasting was:

1. From the frog to the tie-bar, right to left (in the opposite direction to the blue arrows) ,

2. The short section of the through line towards the tie-bar, left to right,

3. One of the two 'arms' of the point again right to left, and;

4. The remaining arm right to left.

Once all tamped and brushed, wet and glue (in no particular order).

Cheers and good luck,

Philip

Edit: I got so caught up in ballasting between the rails I forgot to mention the outer edges. The only area to take greater care is in and around the ends of the tie bar. I chose to dry ballast up to the end of the tie-bar when in a closed position and then open the point. The tie-bar would clear its own path in the dry ballast - any excess I cleared with the dry brush and tamped the rest with my finger. Same procedure for the other side. When happy, wet'n'glue. It is inevitable that some PVA will find its way between the tie-bar and the sleeper - so don't be tempted to flood too much in one go. When the PVA is going off, work the tie-bar back and forth to keep it as free as possible. When dry, check its movement and look out for those pesky particles .

And a re-edit: I did the pointwork ballasting in two stages - between the rails and then the outer edges (the order isn't important). What I found helped was to let whatever was done first to 'go off' (hard but not necessarily fully dry) before continuing. When you get up to speed a point can be done in an hour's worth of work as you can part-do one point and get started on another as the PVA is going off on the first.

Hi BobM,

I just found your thread and I hope you won't mind me joining in, but I have a couple of photos that may put your mind at ease regarding ballasting around Peco pointwork - BTW provided it was the diluted PVA that squirted over your points and you mopped up the worst, you should be OK. As others have mentioned, diluting it with water and then drying should do the trick.

Regarding ballasting around pointwork, this is what worked for me, YMMV:

When ballasting around the points, greater care needs to be taken that the particles of granite or sand don't get trapped in the frog or between the check rails, nor behind (or under) the blade and especially between the tie-bar and the adjoining sleepers - it does happen and seems unavoidable, but it can be minimised.

Using a suitable dispenser (I use an old plastic yogurt pot) tip a little of your dry ballast from the the frog towards the tie-bar. When you get towards the tie-bar, don't be in a hurry to tip too much at once a little at a time is better - or use the tip of an old tea-spoon to place small quantities to both sides of the tie-bar (but not on it, if possible ). With your finger, tamp down on the ballast and spread it between the sleepers adding a little more if needed. A small soft brush can help to place the ballast - though I did find in certain cases static electricity could cause the ballast to attach itself to the bristles - not what you want around the tie-bar. A soft brush is better, I found, as harder bristles may flick the ballast about.

Repeat the procedure on both the through and diverging lines of the point - this time I found working back towards the frog and the heel (the part where the blades start) was easier than trying to do it the other way. As before, tip enough ballast between the sleepers to form small heaps and reducing the amounts as you get towards the blades. As there is little space between the stock rails and the running rails, if you have as I have phat phingers, you will need to carefully work the ballast into the small spaces with your brush.

Now is the time to check that your points still move freely. If they stick then it's either ballast caught between the tie-bar and one (or both) of the adjoining sleepers or caught under one of the blades or just resting on a sleeper behind one of the blades. DON'T BLOW    (ha ha) !!! Use a sharp cocktail stick to remove the offending particle.

As you have already done: fine water mist + a couple drops of washing up liquid then 50:50 PVA:Water + a drop of washing up liquid. I missed what you used for flooding with PVA, but I used an eye-dropper - much more accurate especially for placing the PVA in and around the blades and tie-bar. Once you've applied the PVA and it's started to dry move the blades occasionally so that any PVA will not stick. When dry, look for any obvious particles that may have 'floated' - some will, usually in the web of the rail. Using a cocktail stick you can pick them off. If the blades are stuck, a little even pressure will usually break the bond and release any particles that may have floated underneath. If they won't close properly it'll be usually no more than a particle stuck on the back of the blade or between the tie-bar and sleeper.

I saw you'd raise a point regarding infilling of the rails. On YouTube, Everard Junction showed how to created inset rails using plaster (there are probably lots of other 'how-to videos out there). He did the whole lot in one go, using a trowel to expose the rail tops. IIRC, he then ran an old wagon along the tracks as the plaster was hardening to make grooves in it. When dry, he chased the plaster out along the groove using a Dremel and small cutting wheel. I chickened out .

I plastered to both outer sides of the running rails and used a trowel to smoothe along the tops. As I wanted to represent concrete, when the plaster was hardening I grooved the 'concrete' into panels. In between the rails, I dry-ballasted as normal but then added a layer of fine sand over the top to hide the sleepers and then wetted it as above.

I think I should dirty my ballast more as its a pseudo-steam/diesel depôt as I happen to like your black - now that looks the part!

I apologise in advance regarding the picture quality - a bit too close for the flash and too dark to use manual focussing.

BTW, my 'ballast' is builders' sand dried in the oven and then a number of various domestic strainers to get the right grade - SWMBO never saw a thing!

Track laying in progress

Track ballasted - a small amount of 'ballast' in and around the sleepers and then fine sand over and alongside - really needs more dirtying.

Pointwork ballasted plus 'concrete' fuel bay - plus section of mainline - the ballast there has had little colouring done to it.

Inset rails - but just ballasted in-between.

Close-up of the ballasting around the tie-bar. (The hole is for a yard-lamp).

I hope the above can be of use to you in doing your pointwork.

Good luck,

Cheers,

Philip

@SirTophamHatt

Your e-mail is of the format that has been doing the rounds lately - it actually originates from China. There was quite a thread on it on theregister.co.uk (an IT site) a few weeks ago. If I recall correctly the solution was to mark it as 'phishing' (or if your mail server allows it, 'block' all e-mails from 'that' address) and delete it - then ignore.

@Pete the Elaner

Had one about 2 months ago purportedly from Microsoft saying that my Outlook account had been attacked and that possibly my password had been compromised. Unfortunately I wasn't able to view the message source (a facility that no longer exists in Outlook) so there was no way of knowing if it was genuine or not. In this instance as it was a password I had been using for over 20 years and the same one for many other sites, I did think it wise to change anyway - bit of a pain - but perhaps for the good.

Cheers,

Philip

Hello chums,

Give my brother, Peter (of Lord and Butler), a hello from me as I can't be there personally - too far for a day trip. I shall be watching out for any videos if they're posted up.

(I understand he does a mean bacon roll too - mmmmm lunchtime soon).

Cheers,

Philip

@taz

Oo-er ..... don't want any of that, thankyouverymuch! Noted.

@ The Johnster,

Aw go on - just a couple of piccies. You never know, some kind soul may suggest another of doing it and be a cleaner/simpler job. I want/need to learn.

Good luck,

Philip