Philou

Hi BobM, I just found your thread and I hope you won't mind me joining in, but I have a couple of photos that may put your mind at ease regarding ballasting around Peco pointwork - BTW provided it was the diluted PVA that squirted over your points and you mopped up the worst, you should be OK. As others have mentioned, diluting it with water and then drying should do the trick. Regarding ballasting around pointwork, this is what worked for me, YMMV: When ballasting around the points, greater care needs to be taken that the particles of granite or sand don't get trapped in the frog or between the check rails, nor behind (or under) the blade and especially between the tie-bar and the adjoining sleepers - it does happen and seems unavoidable, but it can be minimised. Using a suitable dispenser (I use an old plastic yogurt pot) tip a little of your dry ballast from the the frog towards the tie-bar. When you get towards the tie-bar, don't be in a hurry to tip too much at once a little at a time is better - or use the tip of an old tea-spoon to place small quantities to both sides of the tie-bar (but not on it, if possible ). With your finger, tamp down on the ballast and spread it between the sleepers adding a little more if needed. A small soft brush can help to place the ballast - though I did find in certain cases static electricity could cause the ballast to attach itself to the bristles - not what you want around the tie-bar. A soft brush is better, I found, as harder bristles may flick the ballast about. Repeat the procedure on both the through and diverging lines of the point - this time I found working back towards the frog and the heel (the part where the blades start) was easier than trying to do it the other way. As before, tip enough ballast between the sleepers to form small heaps and reducing the amounts as you get towards the blades. As there is little space between the stock rails and the running rails, if you have as I have phat phingers, you will need to carefully work the ballast into the small spaces with your brush. Now is the time to check that your points still move freely. If they stick then it's either ballast caught between the tie-bar and one (or both) of the adjoining sleepers or caught under one of the blades or just resting on a sleeper behind one of the blades. DON'T BLOW (ha ha) !!! Use a sharp cocktail stick to remove the offending particle. As you have already done: fine water mist + a couple drops of washing up liquid then 50:50 PVA:Water + a drop of washing up liquid. I missed what you used for flooding with PVA, but I used an eye-dropper - much more accurate especially for placing the PVA in and around the blades and tie-bar. Once you've applied the PVA and it's started to dry move the blades occasionally so that any PVA will not stick. When dry, look for any obvious particles that may have 'floated' - some will, usually in the web of the rail. Using a cocktail stick you can pick them off. If the blades are stuck, a little even pressure will usually break the bond and release any particles that may have floated underneath. If they won't close properly it'll be usually no more than a particle stuck on the back of the blade or between the tie-bar and sleeper. I saw you'd raise a point regarding infilling of the rails. On YouTube, Everard Junction showed how to created inset rails using plaster (there are probably lots of other 'how-to videos out there). He did the whole lot in one go, using a trowel to expose the rail tops. IIRC, he then ran an old wagon along the tracks as the plaster was hardening to make grooves in it. When dry, he chased the plaster out along the groove using a Dremel and small cutting wheel. I chickened out . I plastered to both outer sides of the running rails and used a trowel to smoothe along the tops. As I wanted to represent concrete, when the plaster was hardening I grooved the 'concrete' into panels. In between the rails, I dry-ballasted as normal but then added a layer of fine sand over the top to hide the sleepers and then wetted it as above. I think I should dirty my ballast more as its a pseudo-steam/diesel depôt as I happen to like your black - now that looks the part! I apologise in advance regarding the picture quality - a bit too close for the flash and too dark to use manual focussing. BTW, my 'ballast' is builders' sand dried in the oven and then a number of various domestic strainers to get the right grade - SWMBO never saw a thing! Track laying in progress Track ballasted - a small amount of 'ballast' in and around the sleepers and then fine sand over and alongside - really needs more dirtying. Pointwork ballasted plus 'concrete' fuel bay - plus section of mainline - the ballast there has had little colouring done to it. Inset rails - but just ballasted in-between. Close-up of the ballasting around the tie-bar. (The hole is for a yard-lamp). I hope the above can be of use to you in doing your pointwork. Good luck, Cheers, Philip

@SirTophamHatt Your e-mail is of the format that has been doing the rounds lately - it actually originates from China. There was quite a thread on it on theregister.co.uk (an IT site) a few weeks ago. If I recall correctly the solution was to mark it as 'phishing' (or if your mail server allows it, 'block' all e-mails from 'that' address) and delete it - then ignore. @Pete the Elaner Had one about 2 months ago purportedly from Microsoft saying that my Outlook account had been attacked and that possibly my password had been compromised. Unfortunately I wasn't able to view the message source (a facility that no longer exists in Outlook) so there was no way of knowing if it was genuine or not. In this instance as it was a password I had been using for over 20 years and the same one for many other sites, I did think it wise to change anyway - bit of a pain - but perhaps for the good. Cheers, Philip

Hello chums, Give my brother, Peter (of Lord and Butler), a hello from me as I can't be there personally - too far for a day trip. I shall be watching out for any videos if they're posted up. (I understand he does a mean bacon roll too - mmmmm lunchtime soon). Cheers, Philip

@taz Oo-er ..... don't want any of that, thankyouverymuch! Noted. @ The Johnster, Aw go on - just a couple of piccies. You never know, some kind soul may suggest another of doing it and be a cleaner/simpler job. I want/need to learn. Good luck, Philip

Oh............! I'll follow your advice and start with something easier - walk before running and all that - I'll see how I get on with soldering. Cheers, Philip Edited to say that Mr Mitchell seems to be a GWR man. Makes it look sooooo easy too!

@The Johnster, Any chance of a photo or three showing how you tackle the construction? I've never done brass kits and was curious. Cheers, Philip

@Brassey If No1428 is then a 'real' 14xx (ex-48xx) then it does seem to make the job a little simpler in creating a loco for the Newent branch . I'll keep in mind what you say regarding the MM kit. I think I saw a finished 517 from his stable - it did look good. Without asking you for details - what are the pitfalls? For example: Does the boiler come pre-shaped? If not, how do you roll it? Cheers, Philip Edited to make post more sensible

@Brassey, Thanks for the information regarding 1428 - 1899 onwards will do me! Thanks for the encouragement regarding brass-build - the hardest part of any journey (especially into the unknown) is the first step. I'll order a kit (need to look at what's available), all the bits and then get on with it! However, regarding the withdrawal date of 1932, I think that may be a little premature as it's been photographed in all it's glory at Newent station, sporting a very clean BR smokebox number (unless the number was recycled). https://www.gloucestershirelive.co.uk/news/gloucester-news/check-out-incredible-pictures-gloucestershires-618512 . (You'll need to scroll down to the sixth, and last, photo). Cheers, Philip

@Brassey, Thanks for the information regarding your kitbash. I think it was on your thread that I saw you were doing 1482 and I thought 'good-oh, something I can crib' but no mine is 1428 which is a different build. Did you find the kits difficult as I have never done any brasswork (yet)? Cheers, Philip

@lofty1966 Yes, I noticed that. Shapeways do say 4mm longer to fit over the existing chassis. If you look at the silhouettes of the 517 and 14xx overlain (and it depends which of the 517 you look at and YMMV), it's about 1mm at the front and 3mm at the back end that needs to be foreshortened PLUS the boiler needs lowering by about 2mm. IMHO, the bodies on offer by Shapeways are not quite what I want as the chimney is also looks too short (I suspect it's because the boiler has not been lowered). I shall investigate the two Airfix 14xxs that I have and use them as donor chassis, modify the one body to make 1428 (which is a closed cab - possibly a later rebuild) and use the other body as a base to make 1437 which is an open cab with outside trailing wheel axle boxes. The chassis block will need some removal to take the shorter body but I shan't need to touch the wheelbase (says he). Insofar as 1428 is concerned, I have to find a side-on shot to see whether the rear trailing wheels are internal or external bearings. Cheers, Philip

@Timbowilts, Thanks for the heads up. I've had look and there are two possibles. I shall do some more research regarding boiler height and smokebox length especially for No1437. Cheers, Philip

Hmmm ...... just noticed I need another Class 517, No1428 (with closed cab), that ran along the Newent branch. I hadn't looked much at this branch as it appeared to be Panniers, Prairies and the railcar, No22. I'm going to have a closer look at my two branch lines, aren't I ? Cheers, Philip Edit: Having had a peruse elsewhere, I see Brassey is working on some Class 517 locos ........

As an add-on, one of the lads at the club has a 3D printer - quite adept at it too. He's been doing n gauge loco bodies for his layout - hmmm, I wonder ................ scan a 14xx body, reduce by the appropriate amount, hack as necessary and Robert is your mother's brother. The possibilities suddenly become endless. Cheers, Philip

@Harlequin, Thanks for the additional snippet. I did see on another thread (I forget where just at the moment), that someone had overlain the working drawings of a 517 and a 14xx. If I recall, the 517 is about 95% smaller all round but the wheelbase (drivers and trailing axle) is the same, which is why the idea of using a Hattons' one seemed the way forward - especially as there ARE some good'uns around. I do sympathise with those of whom have got a duff one - and I think that Cap'n Kernow's endeavours are probably waaaaaay out of my comfort zone! I'm going to have to do some hacking anyway as 1437 is a half-cab - I'll look in my secret squirrel box and fish out the Airfix ones and weigh up the possibilities. I mean the boxes are still marked at £9.50 - so it's not as if they cost a lot, is it ? Cheers, Philip

Yeah, I saw the blow by blow saga of Captain Kernow and the chassis. As some said it may have been simpler to build a kit than do the bash. My problem is that I have never done any brasswork at all and it would be a pity to start a kit and then give up. Plastic for me is less of an issue. But thanks for your thoughts and advice. As an aside, why long gear trains? I thought that went out with the Trix E3000 and Class 52 'Western'? When I did my whitemetal kits, it was all Romford/Jackson 40:1/60:1 brass worm and gear wheel. Quite simple really and easy to set up. Plus ça change - eh? Cheers, Philip

Hello Corbs, I had a look at your thread - much impressed by your work. If I can achieve anything approaching what you do, I'll be well pleased. What I do have - and I forgot to mention earlier - are two Airfix 14xxs bought when they first came out and have never been run. I assume they have 'pizza-cutter' wheels, but could be re-wheeled. Any good as a base maybe? Cheers, Philip

Thanks for the heads up, Jason, much appreciated. I'm happy to have a bash, and a bit of scratchbuild too if needs be. Insofar as the wagons are concerned, I did see elsewhere that fine brass rod is much used - especially for brake rodding. I'll look at the small suppliers as you suggest as there are probably things like clasp brakes and the like - and I need some spare buffers as I noticed over the years some of my Airfix minerals have lost a couple. Cheers, Philip

The New Year starts with a riddle – when is a 14xx not a14xx? Answer: When it's a 517 – oh, and a Happy New Year and Best Wishes for 2019. The reason I ask the question is that I couldn't understand why the Hatton/DJM GWR 14xx class loco was not shown with a half-cab such as this: GWR 1437 http://www.ewyaslacy.org.uk/doc.php?d=rs_gdv_0019 (You need to scroll down the page). It was only by chance that I was looking on another part of this forum that it became clear that what I wanted was not part of the 14xx/48xx/58xx family but an entirely different branch of locos from a much earlier period. I have one of these: GWR 2-4-0T Metro tank. This I built over 50 years ago from a Wills' kit. It's a little worn due to a number of house moves and it's never moved under its own steam as it was never motorised. As I never completed it, I had posed myself the question as to whether I could convert it to 1437 by reversing the chassis and creating new splashers above the forward drivers. The question became a little moot as in another article I saw that Metro tanks (possibly bigger ones) were used on the main line between Cardiff and Gloucester and in my mind, for the purposes of my future layout (link: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130391-painted-myself-into-a-corner/ ), it's no major stretch of my imagination (Rule 1 if necessary) to have a Metro tank plying its trade between Gloucester and Ledbury via Newent. In any case, the driver wheelbase is completely out as it's too long. The questions to all of you who kit-bash and scratchbuild are: Which is the best way to get myself 1437? Do I buy a Hattons 14xx and hack or (if available) a 4mm kit and build one. I have never made ANY kit in brass and I haven't soldered whitemetal as all the ones I made 50+ years ago were stuck with contact adhesive (which has held good until now), so I have no idea if my soldering skills are any good. GWR 5818 http://www.ewyaslacy.org.uk/Golden-Valley/Digital-Archive-Photographs-of-the-Golden-Valley-Railway-Pontrilas-after-the-Second-World-War-Part-3-of-3-/1946-1967/rs_gdv_0021 (You need to scroll down the page). Again, in my ignorance, I didn't know until quite recently that the 48xx series outlived the 58xx locos, due to the latter ones having no auto-coach equipment. At least this one survived until the early 1950s. Regarding 5818 I wondered whether I should have got (too late now, I suspect) a Hattons/DJM and hoped to get 'a good'un'. Or get one and go Captain Kernow's route (and others), and replace the chassis and motor. Any thoughts? I also want one of these, GWR 1385. http://www.ewyaslacy.org.uk/doc.php?d=rs_gdv_0019 5 (Again, scroll down). This one I did think could be created using the Electrotren 0-6-0ST pseudo ex-TVR loco as a donor chassis and then hacking the body and various Airfix 0-4-0ST body parts with some scratch build, I could probably tackle that (in plastic). There is also 'Hilda', GWR 359 0-6-0ST (with bell!) that worked the Golden Valley line from Pontrilas during the construction of the munitions depôt at Elm Bridge in the early 40s . This needs an 0-6-0 chassis. I haven't found as yet any dimensions regarding the wheelbase to decide on what could become a suitable donor. Whether there is information elsewhere regarding Hudswell Clarke locos, I don't as yet know. Intriguingly, there was also a USTC 2-8-2 loco that went to the munitions dump but I have no info on that other than the photo that is within the third link above – I think I have enough to be going on with at the moment without contemplating an 'intruder'. Plastic kits and RTR. In addition, I have received at Christmas, half a dozen Parkside kits. I have in years gone by constructed many, many Airfix kits (aircraft and railway). At face value, there seems to be no major differences in their approach in construction. Am I correct, or are there pitfalls? I note also, on other threads, especially Wright Writes, that wagons (seemingly much unloved and only given a cursory look, usually) do need attention to detail to make them more realistic. I see mention of 'fitted' and 'non-fitted' and therefore the need of continuous braking equipment (eg vacuum cylinder underneath and pipework at each end – oh and rodding through the 'V' hangers). Question arises: How will I know what is wanted (or missing) from my kits? What do I do to all my other built Airfix kits (70-odd mostly built 50 years ago) and all my RTR wagons pre- and post- modern (approx 150 bought post-2014) to improve them? I have absolutely no literature to which I can refer and rely mostly on the t'interwebs for information. Am I a lost cause? Help! Cheers, Philip PS: If these topics have been done before, can someone point me in the right direction?

@The Johnster No. Why shame? It's for you - time and money do play their part in decision making. You can take your time and ensure both sides are well finished and if and when you come to sell on, the purchaser may well want 'two' coaches too! Happy New Year to all! Philip (ex-Cardiffian)

@Charlie, You say that Arriva Trains Wales is 'not in this batch'. Does that mean there may be an ATW in a future batch? It's the one I should like . Cheers, Philip

Hello chums, I'm still here - but I've been way-laid yet again! I did manage to get a TGV Ouigo (much to my surprise) as I was expecting a 'Nah, sorry mate, sold the last one this morning' - or similar in French. Got there just 10 minutes before the shop shut. I just don't understand french shop hours - and I live here! They shut at 5pm - yes 5pm - and still have a 2 hour lunchbreak, whilst others are open until at least 7pm. Anyway, got the set and a Tillig outside single slip that I may use on my layout if I can't get to grips with making my own. As the weather was dry (but cold) I felt duty-bound to go back to the woods to cut more logs, especially as 'Mrrrr Maaaayorrrr' (in my best Laaaaarry the Laaaaambs voice), has had the odd moan that it all needs to be out by the end of the month. With a sharpened and adjusted chain, progress was good. And so went any prospect of any long spells of modelling. A similar situation ensued until this morning when we have had lots of rain and wind and progress was made on forming some platforms (no pictures to show - just cut up cardboard shapes at the moment). In between times, last Thursday, SWMBO's brother got squished between two vehicles - yes - really. He was about to get into an Iveco van, when a car came out of a side turning and passed too close to the van and rolled him along the side of the van leaving the imprint of his rib cage in the panelling. He is alive but not kicking. Injuries so far: Bruising around the head, broken collar-bone, most of his ribs broken, broken femur and two broken knees (the tops of the tibias crushed). He was having a head-to-toe scan (MRI) today - and get this - no-one in the hospital knew he'd been crushed - he was brought in as a broken femur case - so they're looking in detail to ensure there are no internal injuries PDQ. Surprising how the body can take an awful lot of punishment as he is able to talk coherently and eat and drink. Mind you, he is a big lad 19st and over 6ft tall which probably saved him. To cap it all, we have visitors arriving tomorrow (Saturday) for the festivities. The layout was supposed to go to my daughter's so my grandson could have it for Christmas - they're away, the van to take it away wasn't available and so the layout is still here. It will go into the barn tomorrow and I can continue working on it in the New Year - so the challenge is lost. Null points for me. As an add-on, I managed to get the grandson (the one who wanted a steam loco and for whom is the layout) a Hornby 'Adderley Hall' and 3 Collett coaches in Hatton's Sale of the Century for the princely sum of £74. If he doesn't like them - I'll have them back thankyouverymuch. I know they're only the Railroad Range, but to my untrained eye, they looked quite adequate. Wishing you all a very Happy Christmas and a Prosperous New Year. Happy modelling in 2019 to you all. Philip PS: I'll start posting again after the festivities have finished.

Hello Imustbemadatmyage, I agree with Ray H, put your ideas up here and you'll get help. The chaps on here certainly helped me with my layout ideas. Phil has put it very well - it was 'normal' practice (though there are always exceptions) that trains accessing a yard or siding would have to go past the point and then reverse. Branch lines leading off a main-line is another matter altogether. Cheers, Philip

Hello chums, I didn't post yesterday as there wasn't much to tell, but today was far better. The station is under way. I decided to start with something simple such as an island platform building as I haven't done any card building for a good while and I had to re-learn some basics: Don't use a craft knife (x-acto type) with a long fine blade as it tends to flex. They're good for cutting into corners, or curves, but not too good for long straight cuts unless it's paper. A cutter (Stanley type) with a new good quality blade is best. Invest in a quality steel straight edge, even a short one is better than nothing. Aluminium is alright BUT a cutter WILL cut the edge. Do cut on a cutting mat of a decent size to avoid slipping. I got an A2 sized one for very little on Amazon plus an A4 size for doing small detail parts. If you construct downloadable models don't use spray mount glue - it does not hold very well as I found out. A glue stick is probably better AND it washes off your fingers with warm water. Once you've cut out your patterns and stuck them to the appropriate thickness of card DO wait until the pattren is dry - regardless of the sharpness of the blade it will tear - and don't cut out the openings BEFORE sticking the pattern down. The glue softens the paper and makes it darn difficult to lay flat. Cut them out when you cut the card - saves time anyway. I use a cocktail stick to spread glue from the stick onto smaller detail parts. I just daren't use superglue due to phat phinger syndrome . Here are a couple of photos: This was the result of last year's efforts. I stuck whole pages of patterns down onto the card - unfortunately you end up with swiss cheese and lots of small bits that end up being wasted. This time round it was a case of cutting the patterns from the paper, glued onto the card and then when dry, cut the card. Very little waste so far. The artistic director came to have look and said it was purrrrfect. A selection of the basic tools required. This was done this afternoon - there are imperfections but the camera lied . The next step is to construct the canopy. I'm going to cut out the trusses from thin card - the model just has thick card cut to shape. Even if it's the sort of detail that won't be seen, I'm doing it to see if I can and also I'll need to have a certain level of detail on my layout - so I may as well practice. Tomorrow will be a non-layout day as I'm going to go to the local box-shifter to see what he has in stock that I can buy for the other grandson's present. I did say in an earlier post that it was 100 miles away - it will be 230 miles round trip. But SWMBO has an appointment that is 2/3rds of the way there - so I'm going the extra mile - or three . Speak soon, Philip

I thought it was pricey too. Just had some quotes a little while ago - range anywhere from €380 to €1200(!). I am awaiting for details to arrive. The cheaper ones do not do breakdown at the door - which is essential as you will know living in the sticks in France. At least in the UK you're never far from anything (ducks quickly!) . Cheers, Philip

Bit of a 'meh' day today. The station building I had chosen is too deep for the platform at the point where it's supposed to sit. So I downloaded a couple of alternative styles that I shall now construct and maybe hack around a little - but fit it will! Then it was a case of finding this Ouigo TGV that the grandson wants - blow me! No-one has any stock. I'm a little stuck as there are no 'proper' model shops within 100 miles of here - so it's basically ordering on t'intertubes. Then it was shopping around for car insurance as management decided that we're paying just too much - £800pa fully comp for a Mondeo - is that expensive compared to the UK? Anyway, the long and the short is that nothing got done on the layout today - f-f-frustrating is the word, I think. Hopefully something to show tomorrow. Toodle pip Philip