VicZA

Phil ... I get it ... like this diagram shows: Suppose (depending on the decoder) the additional wires are not used and hence not connected ... now to look for a decent decoder

@slngshotx: Yep makes sense except for two things that I am still not clear about: Remove the existing pcb, the orange & black are the supply to the decoder. Red & black to motor. Remove and discard the PCB? Decoder completely replaces it? Depending on the chip it may fit ok; however on mine I cut the metal lug off that the PCB screws too. The decoder then sits nice and flat on a bit of insulted double sided sticky or hot glue. Which decoder did you use? Must it be a 6-pin, 8-pin, doesn't matter? what considerations do I need to take into account? What are the changes of getting a SOUND decoder into this body?

Thanks HARLEQUIN ... that was easier than I thought and managed to remove everything without any damage. The photos below show the pieces apart and I think clearly show that there is no socket for DCC, so will have to do a modification - but it's a bit TIGHT in this chassis. As always, some questions: ( a ) anyone modified one of these that could share some tips? ( b ) does the DCC decoder fit above this PC board (assuming there is space) ( c ) or does the DCC decoder replace the PC Board that is currently in place? Thanks

So ... as decided I was going to open up my new (old) loco and check if it has any support for DCC (pretty sure it does not) but alos how much space is available for these additions ... and came up against the following question: "how the %$$^$^&@ do you open up this loco": I have had a look at the service sheet for it and pretty sure that the screws I need to get to to remove the body of the loco are the ones indicated as 200-014 (red square) on the diagram but how do I get to them? There are two pieces of body in the way of the screws, namely items 150-146 (blue square) My questions thus: ( a ) How do I remove these two pieces to get to the screws as they seem very delicate? ( b ) Are these the correct screws to remove in order to lift off the cab? ( c ) Are there any other screws that I need to get to besides these? ( d ) do I have to disassemble the wheels too? Please see attachments .... Thanks Vic

I will open it up a little later and put some photos up as suggested ... until later

Folks .. again ... thanks for all the info so far - greatly appreciated. A few more questions if I may ... I have just received my latest loco which is a previously owned 8750 Tand (a beauty!) but I think it is only DC, so: (a) how do you tell if it is DC, DCC or Analog bu looking at it "under the hood"? (b) assuming it is DC - which I think it is - can I run it on a DCC track using a DCC controller (I have the Hornby R8213)? © If I want to change it to DCC, what decoder do I need? (d) Does anyone have a link to a you tube video (or similar) to show how this is done. Thanks

Hi All, I must confess to (from what I have seen to date) Bachmann being my fave producer of oo Gauge models. I have been trolling through the internat looking for some info and data on models produced so would like to ask: is there an online guide that shows the models produced, what versions (numbers) and when they were made by Bachmann? I have found some competitor ones online but not for Bachmann .... anyone have a link for me please? Thanks Victor

JUst another quick question about paint ... There are definately some models that have a glossy finish to their paintwork and some are matt. My question is .. in the STEAM eras what would the finsih be, especially era 2, - most images from that era are (obviously) B&W so would be dificullt to tell. Thanks Victor

Wow! as always fantastic answers and you really take time to give a lot of detail ... THANKS VERY, VERY MUCH .... got a lot of reading to do

Hi All, Firstly excuse my lack of knowledge on all these subjects - I am not only new to Model Railroading but also new to thee UK ... so lots to learn Thankfully I can across RMWeb and have already learnt a lot. For the questions: (a) Does anyone have a list or link of the trains that were used by GWR? This may well be a long list so if anyone know a better way to get this please suggest (b) Is there a GWR "club" or category on RMWeb? © Did the GWR ever run the CLASS 3F 0-6-0T - I want to model a Coal Terminal but want it to be GWR ... just like their livery etc. (d) Would it be possible to convert this model (see below) to GWR livery. I want to get it all weathered up to - make it look like a real warhorse !! Thanks (as always) for the help ...

Hi All, I am new to the hobby so learning as I go. Reagrding DCC: is there a "stcky" somewhere that explains the concept? I amstruggling to understand the practical difefrence between locos that are sold as: (a) DCC Ready (b) DCC Fitted © DCC Sound Also, what is required in the way of wiring up and powering your tracks? Thanks Vic

Does anyone know what Locomotives would have been typically used for hauling coal in the collieries of the Forest of Dean? Also, would that fall under one of the big 4 groups or would they be something else?

All, these are great responses and provide a lot to read into and to look up. I have taken a few small steps to my understanding and knowledge of the subject: I have purchased: Bill Hudson's 'Private Owner Wagons' Volume 3. It;s very informative and a great reference. Looking into the modelling side, it seems that the FOREST OF DEAN is both a historical and much loved area for modellers. Any links to modelling of this location in the 1900-1920 era? Think I may look at that as a first attempt. Thanks everyone for all the feedback.

Guys, in case anyone else needss this info and is not aware of this product, I used De-Solv-It Sticky Stuff to remove the glue. Rub it on with a brush or similar ... let it work for at least 5 mins ... wrinse and rub (if necessary) with warm soapy water. Works very well Available from Ebay, Amazon, Halfords, Lakeland, etc ... about £4.50

Thanks everyone for the assistance and the suggestions on oiling ... I have sorted out the problem as per post #5 above .... cheers

Hahahaha ... yes indeed .......... (still learning) what does RTR stand for please?

trying my luck here .... so I assume anyone who models to a specific Era, Line or Rail Company would want to be as accurate as possible - so has anyone ever gone through the exercise of matching up the wagons available to the "Big Four" ? I was thinking of say ... "Pugh & Co = LMS or LNER or GWR or SR" or whatever is relevant. What are the chances someone has done this or seen this done ....

Does anyone know if some solvent like paint thinner or turpentine would work on this?

Thanks for the comments....very interesting and will follow up on those links. My biggest question with this post was around what plarailfan said about imaginary ones ... how do we know and how do we get information on the company? As an example....who were Pugh & Co ?

Does anyone know of websites or books where I could get some history on the P.O. wagons that are on sale. I assume they are based on real historically accurate companies....or are they not?

John, That's exactly what it was .... I managed to "fix" it ... nothing really wrong. Turns out that when I opened the tender to check on the decoder, I tightened the screws too much on closing it up again. This caused the wheels to become too tight or misaligned slightly. Qurater/half turn and they are fine ... all three sets of wheels are free-wheeling perfectly again - perfect! Thanks for everyone's quick help on this BTW: This is the Stirling Single from Locomotion Models/Rapido ... it has two fixing screws on the tender. Regards, Victor

Could you please elaborate? what do you mean by tweaking? I notice the middle wheels are also starting to become stiff. The tender has three sets of wheels. If I "flick" them with my finger, the first sets free-wheels very easily and takes quite some time to stop, the middle set turns only about 5-10 times then stops, the back ones don't spin at all really.

thanks for all the suggestions folks. The glue seems to be quite old/sticky and warm soapy water doesn't seem to help. Would some sort of solvent get rid of it? I don't want to grind it off.

I have recently purchased a new oo gauge steam loco with tender ... i have had it for about a month and only run it for about 2 hours. Yesterday I noticed that the rear wheels on the tender were not turning. These are not driven wheels (as far as I know) and should be free wheeling. If i push it with my finger then they do turn but a quite stiff. On the track they don't turn at all. Is this a case of worn or damaged bearings? Is it acceptable that this should happen so soon after purchase or should I be getting this sorted under warranty? Thanks for the help

I am not sure where this post belong so please move if not in correct/appropriate section I wanted to model the old era of around 1895-1905 and have acquired a Stirling Single model. From what I know the SS was used almost exclusively for coach or passengers. My question is: what train types would have been used for freight around that time? I wanted to have both a passenger and freight setup and am hoping to model the area around Alexandra Palace for this. Thanks for the assistance