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MAP66

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Everything posted by MAP66

  1. 101 uses for bindweed in a model railway: No. 2 climbing up a length of timber.
  2. Thought I would throw my two penneth in and its definitely not meant to confuse you any further Steve. Wills do a little scrap merchants kit, it might work being placed on the edge of the layout near the front edge or maybe a small coal merchants already mentioned by Simond. Perhaps even a grounded van body used for storage, could be really beaten up and overgrown with new pieces of timber repairs added over the years. Perhaps a brazier with a pile of old wood and junk to burn. Any way, keep running your ideas past us all, as we are only too glad to continue offering our opinions. All the best Mark
  3. Thank you all for your comments regarding the forced perspective. All very much appreciated, I will do my best to keep the updates coming and keep you updated on any other crazy scenery ideas I might have - good and bad.
  4. Chris, you are doing a stirling job with the Cambrian kit, the photos are evidence of that. You may have been unlucky and ended up with your kit produced on POETS day, hence the quality issues. Like Mr Wolf, I also have one of these kits which I purchased ages ago, still unopened and lurking in a drawer somewhere. We are all behind you and willing you on to get the crane completed. Don't consider the F bin, unless it stands for Finished bin which is where you proudly place your finished models ready for us all to see and marvel at. All the best Mark
  5. Thank you Keith In answer to your question on the return section of the fencing, yes the return is now longer. From the first attempt fence you can see that the return only came to half way along where the white filler is on the ground. On this fence the return now extends to the end of the filler. I've put up another image, shot from a different angle to show that the return section is up against the back-scene. You get the real illusion effect from looking head on. The fence is a scale 6' 6" tall but is only that height at the extreme end of the return, nearest to the viewer. The return section then tapers down to a scale 5' tall at the rear section of the fence to give some perspective of depth. I'm going on a bit, here's the photo...
  6. Thank you Gypsy The process for bindweed is as follows; Using a very fine detail brush, paint lines of dilute pva (slightly more thicker consistency than that used for ballasting) onto the surface of the fence. You are aiming to replicate the bind weed so apply the pva how you think the bind weed would cover the fence, but only do a small area at a time. Then while pva is still wet sprinkle on some dark green fine turf, the stuff I used is from Javis (other brands are available) leave it for a few seconds and shake off. Then continue like that, every now and again I added some scenic scatter of a slightly different colour green for variety. As you can see from the photo, I wanted some of the bindweed growing up from the base of the fence and some climbing over the top of the fence from the other side. The white flowers are simply tiny blobs of white paint applied with a fine paint brush. Hope that helps Mark
  7. I'm still messing about with that fence as I wasn't happy with the first attempt. Second version is made from very thin card painted with ordinary water colours and use of weathering powders. The fence planks are drawn on with a size 005 pigma micron pen and steel rule in an attempt to make it look like feather edge fencing. I then added the gardeners enemy (bind weed), some of which has started to flower, so it must be June as I have plenty of the bloody stuff in the garden. The section of return fencing on the left, seems to look fairly convincing considering it is flat against the backscene. I will finish this off with some weeds and grass at the base of the fence. A few more vines and creepers around the store and then some items placed in the yard. Those small pin holes in the back scene - I really need to sort those out. Updates are a bit few and far between now as getting organised for returning to work. All the best Mark
  8. The signal wiring, pulley wheels and chain at the signal box end was stressing me out, its so fiddly, you just have to be in the right frame of mind to tackle it. I walked away from it and will eventually get it completed but its going to take a few more intense sessions. So I've gone back to the yard for now and will make a concerted effort to get this small area completed before moving onto something else. Here are some images of the yard, the paper fence running along the back is yet to receive its final uniform colour, its still a bit mismatch a the moment. You will also see that some further greenery has appeared on the tunnel entrance retaining wall. That store is going to need a hasp and staple with padlock - Oh no, I can feel my eye balls hurting again.
  9. Hi Keith thank you for your kind comments and as a whole I have very much enjoyed this little project. The intention from the outset was always to construct a test track in P4 and use the project to gain further knowledge and experience in scenery making so that the track can also serve as a photo-plank come diorama when not in use. I have certainly picked up some great tips along the way from the endless supply of brilliant and creative railway modelers who frequent this forum and I really hope others who have looked in on this thread have enjoyed the progress updates along with my general musings. What was not apparent from the outset though was the level of detail to include and this has sort of evolved as the project developed to a point where the enjoyment sometimes is taken over by frustration. But that’s my own fault as I wanted to challenge myself as well as know my limits. I think the betting quote “When the fun stops, stop” rings true for us modelers too. Better to down tools, walk away, have a cup of tea, sleep on it and return fully reinvigorated – works for me (sometimes) this is what me eyes look like after I've done a stint of signal wiring! All the best Mark
  10. The next step is now done, signal wire attached to chain link at signal pulley and then running off towards signal box passing through two signal wire posts sunk into the ground. Next step will be to work back from the signal box and a bit of finishing groundwork around the base of the signal but that's enough for one day, my eyeballs are hurting.
  11. Looks fantastic Chris even at that brightness, good idea to have the potentiometer to get brightness to level your happy with. I still haven't sorted the lighting out in my signal box I'm messing about with signal wires and fine chain at the moment. All the best Mark
  12. I think I mentioned a while back that I would finish the signal next and spurred on by the achievements of Chuffinghells 'Warren Branch' I have had another stab at attempting to attach some fine chain around the pulley at the base of the signal and then the extremely testing and tedious task of attaching the fine chain to the signal lever crank. I could only do this by forming a slightly larger connecting link from brass wire which you can see in the signal photo. I have also tried to replicate where the signal wire is attached to the chain using a thin sliver of tissue paper soaked in pva and wrapped around the connection (apologies for the image quality of second photo as it is greatly magnified). I am now really not looking forward to linking everything up back to the signal box.
  13. Railway modelling at its best, wonderful stuff. All the best Mark
  14. Thanks for the mention Chris, but it is you who have produced a beautiful signal box and interior. Very exceptional modelling Sir. Just wanted to mention about the signal as well, which is also fantastic. How did you mange to attach that tiny chain to the lever crank. I have been trying to do the same for some time and had given up and was going to use MSE signal wire instead. Now I've seen its possible, has given me new incentive to give it another go - thank you. All the best Mark
  15. Brilliant work Chris, this is going to be a wonderfully detailed interior scene. All the best Mark
  16. Loving the wall clock, it may not be working but at least it gives the right time twice a day
  17. Thanks Adam I really appreciate your feedback. I think the introduction of 3D model figures in railway modeling has really helped me in these types of scenes. They seem to bring it all to life when placed with a little thought. There are endless possibilities and we are only limited by our imagination and errr budget All the best Mark
  18. Thanks Kevin, very much appreciated, hope you like the next installments. All the best Mark
  19. Thank you Sir! I have to say, if mine is Fantabulous that makes "Warren Branch" abso-bloody-lutley-fantabulously-f**king awesome. I think you are the Master of miniaturism and I continue to learn and be inspired by your work. All the best Mark
  20. Chris Superb work with the stove, way better than the one which comes with the interior kit which you can't even boil a kettle on. I managed to conceal the wiring for lighting in my signal box behind the stove pipe, if it doesn't work out with running it up inside the back wall. I am trying to simulate oil lighting and tried an orange led which looked naff when I tried it at night, would be interested to know which lighting you decide upon and are you on gas or oil? All the best Mark
  21. Lets face it, they're never going to finish that fence. So this is the last installment of this particular cameo scene, more scenes to follow. The more keen eyed may notice the addition of the broom against the fence, set square on the bench and rusty gallon tin of white undercoat paint placed on the dust sheet.
  22. Brilliant Adrian, its as crazy as the paving. Mark
  23. Thanks Chris I thought you can't have Fred sawing wood without sawdust, which is a mixture of talc and Humbrol Sand weathering powder. I flicked it in place from the end of a paint brush and it came out much better than I expected. All the best Mark
  24. As promised, here's Arthur the painter. Best nobody mentions his eyebrows or lack off, apparently he lost them in an unfortunate accident years ago when working as an apprentice gas fitter. Arthur claims he also lost hearing in one ear as result of the accident but can still hear the whistle of a kettle boiling from a distance of 75 yards. The kettle must be whistling down at the signal box, judging by Arthur's intense stare. Even though Arthur is now a painter, he refuses to wear overalls, saying that they restrict his creativity - I don't know what to make of that.
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