Norski

Its a little bit better on the mini ruby decoder but its a decoder with go and no go.....not much point for loco driving realistically. I haven't given up on the 56 yet. Its taunting me, possibly conspiring with the MGR hoppers its jerking along !

Merry Xmas to you to Jerry. Have a good (safe) one !! Steve.

Thanks to all who replied. It answered my question perfectly. Ive ordered a nice selection of Lifecolor paints to get me going. Track weathering was top of my list but i hope to use the airbrush elsewhere to make it cost effective. John - that track is stunning. Your ballast mix matches one of my test samples. Thats made me a bit more confident I'm on the right track, no pun intended. Ian - im going to give the enamels a miss anyway. I have ordered the lifecolor thinner. Will give that a go first but I've also got IPA here as well. Mick - fantastic - im already memorising that process. If your new to airbrushing these simple steps aren't obvious. Cheers all !

Thank you Colin. Looks Im going to have fun experimenting with mixes and layers "off line" where it doesn't matter. A few things to learn on upkeep as well. Cheers.

First, thank you for the quick reply - i really appreciate that. Hadn't seen the Lifecolour product. Just had a quick look and they helpfully tell you where each colour suits on the layout. I know that sounds daft to more experienced modellers but these tiny things do help us new boys. You got to start somewhere. Noted your comments on thinners and Neo. If im spraying long sections of track im assuming the paint would be in the cup for longer than a couple of minutes but if its being operated the agitation is preventing drying out ? 3 Velux windows in my train room and i ordered the mask (3M) and the airbrush at the same time. My track record on home DIY H&S is not great. Not taking any chances with this stuff. Me and the soldering iron are only just on speaking terms as it is. Cheers again

Hi all In the new year i expect to have finished ballasting and be in a position to weather my track. I have never used an airbrush before (i have a Neo Iwata coming from father Christmas) and id like to practice on some separate pieces of track before committing to my layout. I have seen a bewildering array of paint colours from familiar names...Railmatch, Vallejo, AMMO, Tamiya etc I appreciate that everyone has their favourites and some paints may be suited to certain tasks. My question is what would be a good brand for me to use (as a first timer) and what paint colours would be suitable (subjective that one....late 80s, early 90s layout, tail chaser with station). Any advice on thinning and not poisoning myself also welcome (I'm thinking stick with acrylics). Thanks

DY444 + Rover 90.....yes i gave him a grilling on the strip down and to be fair i do trust him. I specifically pointed out the issue with the drive shaft worms - well documented. In fact he had two goes at it for me (FOC). I don't have DC capability so can't tell how it would run. What i thought was a Ruby decoder (ref TIM123 above) was actually the even smaller 2FN.....I put this in and there's no judder at all now, unfortunately unless I'm uber-sensitive it goes off like a stabbed rat but once its up to a speed it runs smooth. There doesn't seem to be any setting with this decoder other than go/no go and lights. It makes me think that the 56 really doesn't like acceleration settings on the other decoders etc.... Therefore, I might still try the next decoder up and also have a go at the CV setting on the ESU sound decoder I've now got spare. The legoman sound is to good to be sitting in a box. Im enjoying it running smooth at the moment but my inner tinkerer will get the better of me soon....

The logo in the link looks like the scale model scenery logo. Interesting.

Dagworth + Andy7.....yes id taken it off the older loco and new one (DCR livery - will be resprayed) doesn't have it - fans are stationary. Will have a look at CV54 on the Loksound - cheers chaps

Thank you for that...ive got a Ruby in my box of spares. Seems a step back from the Zimo and the ESU but right now i will try anything. Cheers

Hi all I own two Hornby Class 56 locos. Both run on my DCC layout. The first 56 was purchased used on ebay. I noticed quite pronounced judder at lower speeds which stopped the faster the loco went. It was fitted with a legomanbiffo chip (amazing sound out of this loco - wake your neighbours). Tried adjusting CV's....no joy. I tried a gauge master decoder and a DCC concepts decoder. Same result. I took it to my local shop who stripped it down and serviced it. Same result. I really like the 56 and its an important loco for my era but the judder was driving me crazy. Its not huge but its there. I chalked it up to it being a loco of unknown origin, lesson learnt. Or so i thought.... I purchased a brand spanking new 56 a couple of weeks back. Put a Zimo MX600R decoder in it and off we go.........nope. Same judder (after a long run in). I have adjusted CV's in line with online documented comments and it does appear to improve but not enough. Im beginning to wonder if my eyes are seeing things or is the 56 just not a great performer ? Would love to hear from other class 56 owners or an optician....

They are fantastic. You've been inspiring me lately. Im building my layout (first since i was a little boy) and i scratch built a bridge I'm quietly chuffed about. Been using some weathering powders on it today (also first time). Im really pleased with how it looks. Only a bit to start, cautious not to over cook it. Scenery im happy to have a go at (repercussions are generally low cost).....loco weathering i will be coming to you !

Until this day i never knew i could get so excited about exhaust colours. Superb.

That penny black..... stop teasing me. its cruel. Loving your work, the difference between models and toys...

Hi - not sure if this would be of any use but last year I spent months priming badly varnished pine skirting and door frames (a lot of it !!) - i used a shellac primer called Zinnser BIN. It was very much recommended by the trade decorators on screwfix as the best there was to cover knots, stains etc. It is bonkers expensive but i can vouch for it. Like I said, may be of no use - new to model railways but I could take a degree course on painting skirting LOL (I'm never doing it again). Steve

Taken the plunge - just ordered 59113 set for £398. I think i would end up going round in a circle otherwise (apt for railway modelling), i know what I like just need to make sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree. Thanks to you and Ron - help is very much appreciated

Ron Ah thanks for that, I didn't know - all new to me at the mo. The cheapest I can find on ebay (from Germany) are approx £340 inc shipping. I can buy it from a UK shop for £347. I don't think I'm getting anywhere near £220 (well done on that). Ive had a look at the German train set packs and they are around the £450 mark but as you say i have to recoup some money by selling on or my layout will take on a very continental theme Cheers Steve.

Ok i will have a look at that, will try and give business to local shop if i can as the advice is free there as well ! I don't ride as much as i used to either, spent more time lying in the dirt next to it even then. Im getting to old now to be rearranging my skeleton.

njee20 - Ive been 'away' for so long I'm just impressed with how advanced control has got (not to mention everything else). Id be fibbing if i said i didn't have to google JMRI ha ha. Appreciate the recommendation, gonna speak to my local shop on the weekend and see if they can source failing that there are stocks still on line. PS - Like the profile pic, one MTB'er to another.

Ron - brilliant - thank you for taking the time to write a detailed and very clear reply. I think I will take the plunge on the PIKO rather than bank on an ESU launch - it just depends on what that power output means to me. If anyone wants to chip in on PIKO performance then that would be great. Thanks again Ron Steve

Hello all Returning to hobby after 'short' break of nearly 40 years so forgive any lack of knowledge re DCC (it was zero1 when i left)....Im building my layout this year and currently working out what I like and what I don't like - I am a relentless planner. When it comes to control it will be DCC but I don't want a fixed DCC controller position - i do want a traditional style knob / dial. I was quite taken with the PIKO 55040 when I found it on line but being new to the hobby I could also see it wasnt the usual DCC controller people were opting for. I could also see that the PIKO and ESU product were identical. I have checked ESU (as best I can) product releases and can see no mention of their version (50310) being released outside of USA / Aus. The PIKO is available in the UK now. So after all that...please can someone with far more experience tell me if they are the same thing ? does anyone have any experience of the PIKO ? Am I missing other products that tick would my box on mobility and having a dial? The room is nearly 18ft long so i want to operate from different locations and I still want to 'drive' the locos. Many thanks Steve.

Thank all you so much for such detailed responses to my very first post, I would have been gutted if no one had replied. Just goes to show what a nice bunch railway modellers are. Keep the hobby strong by passing on the skills to the new guys. Some absolutely great advice (some of it seems so simple but you just don't see it - novice excitment). I have clicked the thanks icon to all. Much appreciated. IanLMS - I gave myself a begrudging 5 out of 10 for my first effort and I don't want to post a picture until I figure out how to get my finger print off the station room. I followed your link then wished I hadn't LOL - I got a long way to go mate. Thanks again to all

N Gauge card kits ! Id take my hat off to you but it would stick to my glue covered fingers. I don't know how you do it my friend, I'm working in OO and it felt like had 10 thumbs at one point.

Andy Ironically had ordered Swann Morton blades and knives (one scalpel type, one not) last night after checking on google for hobby knives (the company I used will ship both knife and blade). You mentioned a curved blade whereas I had previously used what can only be described as a blade in the shape of a triangle. My replacement order last night included both types as I was unsure (i forget the codes but remember the shape) as I suspected the triangular blade ship was tearing as opposed to slicing. Your point on having to do multiple 'passes' for 2mm is duly noted (beginners optimism on my part). Thanks for taking the time to reply Steve

Hi - 100 at a time - wow ! thats a lot so I'm assuming you'd got through 10+ on a kit at least ? I used a basic self healing cutting mat Steve.