rynd2it

I have done quite a bit of soldering in the past but I've never been really happy with the results. The last layout I worked on I was using some RS 5-core 22swg 60/40 lead solder and Fluxite paste; both of these date from the 1980's when I used to build computers. I have a Duratool variable temperature soldering station with various bits. My main problems always seem to centre around the temperature which is either too high and melts the plastic in DB-25 multi-pin connectors or not high enough so I tend to leave iron on the work too long. I'd like to address these issues with a little help. Firs off, I think I need to purchase new solder and flux (!) and maybe a smaller 25W soldering iron with smaller bit. I expect I'll need a no-clean flux as some areas will be impossible to wash out. I'll mainly be soldering onto small switches and to nickel silver track; not likely to need the multi-pin connectors again as I'm going DCC. What would you all recommend to buy and for temperatures? Thanks in advance

Thanks for all that, I'll look at the ESU servo pilots although I have used Arduino before for signals. The DCC Concepts guys were absolutely adamant that twisting the bus wires would solve the Cobalt lost addresses problems - it's on their forum. But I'd never seen it anywhere else hence my raising it here

There was a long discussion on the Cobalt forum about the point motors losing their dcc addressing as a result of spurious signals and the twisting of the power bus was recommended plus having other wires cross the power bus at 90 degrees. Hence my questions above.

I was told the twisting helped eliminate spurious signals, nothing to do with shorting. I was concerned that if the bus wires are twisted, soldering droppers could get difficult. And I have looked at the MERG boards and I do like the idea of an 'analog' panel controlling dcc signals and points.

I'm planning a layout 4mm scale about 16 feet long, 2 feet wide, single branch line into a terminus and goods yard, fiddle yard at the other end. It has 8 turnouts and a couple of signals for which I am thinking servos/Arduino or Cobalt for the turnouts. 1) Do I need both a power bus and accessory bus, or will one bus do? 2) I have read the bus wires should be twisted or separated by a wide margin - if twisted how tight and if separate how far apart? Does this apply to both busses (if I have two)? 3) If the bus wires are twisted, how best to attach droppers? 4) I have an NCE power cab starter already so answers above should be compatible with this Thanks in advance David

Thanks for that piece of insight - I'll source a transformer and a DC controller. Easy enough to switch between systems with a DPDT switch. Cheers

The NCE Power Cab starter system, it seems to claim it can control DC-only locos. Is this true? I need to test both DC & DCC fitted locos on my test track and it would save me buying and wiring a separate DC controller/transformer. Thank in advance David

Hi again, starting to get settled here and now looking to at least socialize with fellow enthusiasts. Colin, if you are about text me or call on 0761265011 David

I will miss this one, we don't arrive in France until Wednesday and then it's all hands to the pumps with bank appoinments, notaires, CPAM etc. I will be in touch later though Thanks David

Thank you all for the input, most useful. Although where I'll find time for modelling with a house to do up I don't know ;-)

Thank you Colin, and good to know the line is being restored. We'll be there in September I think, maybe a meet up? David

Thanks everyone for the input - research begins

I'm about to move to France, Chabanais 16150, and being an active modeller I'm looking for any clubs etc within a reasonable distance. Limoges and Angouleme are about equidistant at 1 hour driving and that would be fine. Any help or pointers would be much appreciated Thanks David

Thank you Nigel, that is all very helpful

Good idea but that doesn't fit the operational model - unless it was an Auto-train

No I can't - see above

DCC is not an option with this layout, it's wired with a 4-CAB DC system. How small? Joueff P10 tank loco is one of the bigger ones ! Believe me I have looked at adding chips and/or capacitors; about the only way would be with a permanently attached coach or wagon and that is not operationally an option. Trackside detectors and a control circuit is probably the way to go and something I will need to look into in detail. I'm familiar with Arduino programming as I use them for the semaphore signals and for point control on another layout. Integrating this into the existing controls for reverse loop polarity change might be interesting. There is another idea I'm playing with - a switchable series of resistors and diodes in the slow-down area which would gradually reduce the voltage over a few inches of track. This is the most attractive option as it is independent of rolling stock. Much research and thinking required Cheers David

If there's no room for a chip where do you suggest I put a flywheel? These locos are tiny and the bodies are full up with motor & gears etc,

I have a couple of areas on our 009 layout (isolations at platform ends, return loop isolations) where I would like the loco to slow down rather than coming to an instant and abrupt halt. I would prefer to add this to the locos rather than the track especially on my shuttle 'ends' as the same track is also used on regular DC control rather than the shuttle module (Block Signalling SSA2) and can be switched between the two. Interestingly one of our locos - a Roco HOe 009 1:87 baureihe BR99 does have this feature but I have not figured how - it is DCC ready but not chipped. Most of the other locos are too small to fit DCC chips. Any ideas? David

Thank you very much for this, it will be a great help. David

Hi John, Cheeky question, by any chance do you have kits building instructions that you might be able to share with me. I suspect there may be some sequences and painting instructions that I'm unaware of Thanks David

Pin point bearings are a good idea, I'll follow that up

Definitely a blessing in disguise and I appreciate the tips on glue & solder - thanks. I haven't done the tender yet so I guess it's back to the Dettol, may as well get my money's worth ;-) Cheers

Update, I was misinformed, Dettol does dissolve the glue - I now have a kit of parts

Update, wear rubber gloves - my hands smell like a hospital