harriermate

Hi guys, I have a Hornby digital starter set purchased a few years ago (R1126) which runs through a Hornby Select DCC controller. Unfortunately in a recent house move I’ve misplaced the wall transformer and need to find a replacement. I’ve tried connecting the Jack plug from several other Hornby transformers of various vintages but they all seem to have a fractionally smaller internal diameter on their Jack plug and I don’t want to damage the Select controller by forcing a Jack lead on. Does anyone know the model number of the correct transformer? thanks in advance Nigel

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll go for the decent decoder. As you say why simp on the decoder after spending so much time and effort on the model! I was more concerned about the cost of a DCC controller to be honest. Hence my question regarding the Hornby basic one. If all works fine then no doubt I would upgrade later. Good to know that the Hornby one will work with decent chip. I was going to use socket and harness to be able to swap the chip...but as you say I mights well just hard wire it without the connector. And Izzy, yes the G6 happily navigates the setback radii of turnouts. Ive been playing all morning (sorry... experimenting!). However, in wanting to have a single suburban coach on the layout (whether DC or DCC), it arrived this morning. And although it too can negotiate the settrack radii, the buffers interlock with the loco.... so unless I limit which track it can go on to a 'straight through line beside the shunting sidings, it looks like I might need the larger radius peco streamline anyway!! Its all about learning!!! Nigel

I’ll post a few photos of the loco in its final weathered state shortly.

I’ve recently completed an ‘Alan Gibson’ 0-6-0 G6 tank locomotive powered by a Swiss watch precision (!) portescap motor and gearbox. It runs as smooth as silk at all speeds and I intend building an 8ft (space limited!) end to end layout. Small country Stn, good shed and single road engine shed. I bought the PECO setrack starter set and with an additional turnout have a provisional plan in mind and on paper. I note that the unifrog turnouts as supplied would be perfect for DCC as I only have one feed rail which powers the entire track already…. So incredibly simple. However, I’ve never done O gauge DCC before and heard lots of horror stories. The big question… can I run the loco from my simple Horny HO DCC controller with a simple 8 pin chip????? I need no functions (lights, bells or sound) just the ability for loco addressing so I can have another tank loco (probably a pannier tank) on the layout to operate independently. Would welcome thoughts on feasibility.

Now back to my other passion …. For small O gauge British outline steam layout… still at planning stage and wondering whether I can run my ‘Alan Gibson’ G6 0-6-0 on standard Hornby HO DCC controller and Hornby 8 pin chip. Very smooth runner on DC and I would imagine draws very little current on switch watch precision portescap motor and gearbox…. No functions like lights or sound. I just want digital address so I can put a second small tank loco on the end to end (only 8 ft) layout.

Sorry for tardy reply Chief Penguin….. I gently pulled the wheels and found , as instructed, that they are independent half axles inside the isolating sleeve. Only moved them a few thousand made sure they were all the same with micrometer. Now runs absolutely perfect without more draconian intervention.

Guys, thanks for all the points. Done as instructed and they now run perfectly! Happy bunny once again. 👍

I’ve added photos below. The small brass ‘bearing/current pick ups’ sit flush vertical in the plastic axle boxes but the wheels axles have so much lateral play that they simply fall out!!! This is ‘as new’ albeit probably 15 years old and has not been tampered with at all. My thought was to place a scalpel blade behind the brass bearing strip and bend it inwards slightly so that the axles have less lateral play. But I’m concerned this might not be right given that they are like this from new. advice sought please before I start bending bits erroneously!

Thanks for your prompt response. Away this weekend so I’ll post as soon as I’m home on Mon! The strange thing is that in all other respects the coaches are absolutely’as new’ with all the additional plastic detailed parts still in sealed plastic bags as though brand new. It’s as though there are spacers missing … but on every wheel??????? I think Hampshire Models may have the same train set for sale. So I’ll check with them too on Mon and see if I can get a photo of their wheel sets/axle boxes!

Looking for help/advice. Recently purchased an “as new” Roco Berliner Stadtbahn train set. Looks as though it has never been out of box. However, the wheels on all the coaches simply fall out when coach turned right way up to place on track. It’s as though spacers are missing from the axle boxes. There’s no signs of distortion and the axle boxes have tiny metal connectors for setting up coach lighting. These connectors that the axles should run in show no sign of disturbance or tampering but the axles are simply too short! Help. What am I missing? Has anyone else got this set or had similar problems??

Just need to countersink them into the baseboard now and then cut out the centre section of the sleepers that will run along the rims. Then weather with 'soot', oil and discarded bits of coal/ash.

Progress has been relatively slow.. but lower track with exception of sidings all laid and glued down.. Been working on the inspection pits to be countersunk into the board. couldn't believe how much the Faller kit for these would be so decided to make my own from channel aluminium I had hanging a round, some brick embossed plasticard and some balsa. results in photos below......

Phil, Its 9mm and yes its supported underneath. I haven't put all the cross braces in yet as I want to work out exactly where the point motors are going first. and don't want them to coincide. It's actually in 2 pieces as well, dowelled and slotted together such that I can remove it easily. Just waiting for the cork underlay to arrive so I can start laying track properly, cutting boards for point motors, inspection pits etc. Im also thinking of removing some of the lower board sheeting too, so as to reduce weight further. Just weighing up the relative weight of MDF I could remove against the additional weight of additional braces to preserve rigidity. The lower layer is still one single 8ft x 4ft board!!! not very manoeuvrable!!

More progress with the baseboards...

I’m probably going to have to split the baseboard in half and ‘peg and dowel’ it... for ease of movement....apparently it can’t live in the kitchen forever.... and man handling up and down stairs could be awkward. The track work is arranged such that it crosses the potential join at 90 degrees in all but one place..... and all the points are clear! The upper layer will also lift off when not in use... much simpler since I took the advice to ditch the incline joining upper and lower layers.