outatime

I think so, these pictures have been there for a while now. Björn

According to the hattons website / New Stock, the Dapol Mogul is in Stock now.

Rails, Hornby Peckett Port of London for £79.99 https://railsofsheffield.com/products/35927/Hornby-r3679-oo-gauge-port-of-london-authority-peckett-w4-class-0-4-0st-no-74 Regards, Björn

I think the Dapol one looks very promising, a different colour in the cad picture usually means a different part. So the cabside numberplate could possibly be a separate part. What catches my interest is the fitting of both decoder and speaker and of course the compensated chassis. Just cancelled my preorder on the Hornby one, i will wait until the Dapol one arrives. Regards, Bjoern

Clearly the second one. Look at the sky on the background, in the first one it looks white, in the second light blue as it should.

The R1230 trainset looks like i could get a GWR HST for a reasonable price. Are there any additional coaches for it apart from the new Hornby ones?

Stunning layout, the backscene makes it so much wider. I found this Video yesterday, at 15:33 you can see Hembourne: Regards, Björn

Hi, i also prefer the eye-level shots you can only take with a smartphone. Although i have a proper camera and lenses, i mainly use my iphone for pictures of model railways. You just get to viewpoints you could never get any camera into. Apart from the viewpoints, i like your layout a lot, there is so much detail to spot. But what i like the most are the overall colours, which look so natural and real. Is there a special app for the iphone, which does the focus stacking or are you using some pc software for it? Regards, Bjoern

Hi Tom, brilliant result! Regards, Bjoern

Hi, please try these links for a list of Heritage Railways in Germany: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_von_Museumsbahnen http://www.eisenbahnwelt.com/deutschlandkarte.html https://www.eisenbahnwelt.com/vereinsliste.html Regards, Bjoern

Hi, i tried to open the link with chrome browser and got this error: Location not authorised BFI Player films cannot be played outside of the UKError code: geo Regards, Bjoern

Hi, it was totally worth it, now all six wheels stay on track, providing power to the loco to prevent it from stuttering or stopping. Here you can see the loco running over a small screwdriver: Kind Regards, Bjoern

Hi, i spent a lot of holidays in the uk during the last few years. Every year i brought some 00 models, the first one being a LT pannier tank. After buying some different models, i tried to look for some kind of focus, because i didn't want to end up with models which do not really fit. As a theme i chose a preserved railway, which is a great thing for me, i like the beautiful stations with flowers an all the old advertising. It is totally different from what i am used to see on german preserved railways. With this theme, i can also go for some models which could be on a visit on the preserved railway. After some time i decided to focus on locos from the South Devon Railway in Buckfastleigh, which is where i bought the LT pannier. As 6412 is one of the most used locomotives on the SDR, i had to buy one as well. Sadly though, this model doesn't run as good as it looks and not as good as the LT pannier, which has a sprung middle axle. What i decided to do was to built a 3-point compensation into the RTR chassis. I also came across the highlevel chassis, but wanted to try modifying the model first. If it would not work, i can still go for the highlevel chassis, which i will certainly do for the Hatton's 14xx, but that's another story. At first, i have to say that english is not my native language and some things may not be described in the right way. If you have any corrections, feel free to post them and i will edit this post accordingly. So here is what we start with, the model as it comes out of the Bachmann box: The loco is easy to disassemble, it just takes a few screws. As you can see in the pictures belwo, the wheels have square brass bearings, but no springing at all, the chassis is completely rigid. For a three-point-compensation, we need one rigid axle, which will be the middle axle because of the gears, and we need one sprung and one rocking axle. To decide which one will be which, we have to find the centre of gravity. Just put the loco on a small flat piece of wood and slowly roll it over the edge, forwards first and then backwards. If the loco starts to fall down the edge of the wood, this is the side on which the centre of gravity lies. For the 64xx, this was the case when it was rolled backwards, so the last axle under the cab has to be the rocking axle. The first axle has to be sprung then. Before working on the chassis, the gears have to be removed, their axles can easily be pushed out. The cutouts for the wheels are 4 mm x 4 mm in size, the axles are 3 mm in diameter. As a new bearing for the wheels, a brass tube was chosen, which had 4 mm outer and 3 mm inner diameter. Luckily the inner diameter was slightly above 3 mm, so the wheels could still turn. Because of the outer diameter, the new bearings were a perfect fit for the Bachmann chassis. The plan is to solder a 1 mm brass-wire to the brass-tube, so that this will become the fulcrum point for the rocking axle. A small groove had to be filed into the brass-tube, for the soldered in brass-wire to sit flush with the chassis. With a small proxxon milling-machine, a 1 by 1 mm groove for the brass-wire was cut into the middle of the chassis. The brass-wire will be held in place by a small plastic piece, which will be glued to the lower plastic part of the chassis. The lower part will then be screwed on the chassis frame. The rocking axle will need some additional space to move up and down around the fulcrum point, so the cutout in the frame was widened up. (Actually in the down-direction according to the picture) Here, the modifications to the frame for the rocking axle are finished. For the front axle, i simply did the same and widened up the cut-out for the sprung axle to move up and down. The spring was also self-made out of a copper wire. The longer the spring, the easier it is to adjust it, so i drilled a hole through the middle of the chassis. The spring will go up to the boiler imitation but it will not be seen later because of the wheel splashers. Here you see the brass-tube with the attached 1 mm diameter brass-wire. The same piece sitting in the chassis-frame. Later on, the exact heigh of the rocking axle can be adjusted by bending the brass-wire. Now we have to put the brass-tube pieces on the axles. I used a sharp knife to mark the position of the wheel to get the quartering right when reattaching the wheel. Here, both brass-tubes are already attached to the axles. The four Bachmann brass bearings are not needed anymore. Here are the three wheels next to their positions in the chassis frame. To let the rocking and sprung axle also go down, we have to cut out some little pieces of the lower plastic part with the wipers and the brakes. The middle axle is not modified. When the loco is completed, go for a test-drive and see if it sits evenly on the track. If not, adjust the rocking axle under the cab until the position is right. Now 6412 can go on track with an Autocoach. All the modifications could also be done by hand with a saw, a knife and some files. A milling-machine is a nice addition, but i think it can be done without it. Best Regards, Bjoern

Hi, at first i have to say that Cwm Prysor is a very beautiful layout. I've been reading your blog before, Tom, and was very happy when i saw that the story started to continue here. It really is the best example for less-is-more that i can imagine. I've also got two Hatton's 14xx Locos, which do not run well. Having looked at the HighLevel Chassis for quite a long time now, I decided to go down that route when i read the thread on the scalefour forum. I am about to order some HighLevel 14xx chassis for my locos, but i would like to know which motor was used in Davids loco in the scalefour thread. As i don't have an account there, i can't ask directly but it would be great if someone could do that for me. Keep up the good work Tom, i will follow this thread and can't wait for the layout to be finished with grass etc. It will certainly look very good. Kind Regards, Bjoern

Hi, it's actually not that bad, i also have locos with ESU Sound and coreless motors and they run fine. But i did get better results with other decoders and it did not take that long to adjust the decoder settings. If you fiddle around 2-3 hours with one loco, you will get a good result with ESU as well. That's just because there are so many possible combinations of motor CVs. And if the desired sound-project is only available for ESU Decoders, which is quite often the case for my german models, you can't choose the decoder anyway. Regards, Bjoern

Hi, i also experienced the stopping and starting issue with more than one Hattons 6pin Decoder. I tried it in different locos and it behaved the same way. The changing of CVs did not have any influence, i sent the decoders back and got a refund. My 14xx currently runs with an ESU Decoder but i don't know how common they are in the UK. If someone wants to use an ESU Decoder, try the following for coreless motors: Set CV 52 to 0, this will improve running. If not satisfied, try setting CV 51 between 5 and 15. You could also try to reduce CV 10 to values between 8 and 4. CV 53 should be between 120 and 140. This could lead to better running, possibly. But in regard to coreless motors, i would not recommend ESU decoders in general. Regards, Bjoern

Hi, try this link: http://www.rheinmodellbahn.de There is a lot of information and pictures about the St.Goar Station. Regards, Bjoern

Hi, as a base model, i would recommend the Roco version of the V60. The Fleischmann one is very old and not to scale. I have i Roco V60 here which is completely disassembled so i can measure what you will need. You can see all the bits an pieces of the locomotive here: http://atw.huebsch.at/modell/h0/Roco_V60.htm Also try a google (picture) search for "roco v60 umbau". Edit: This also looks very good to get the overall measurements: V260zeichnung.JPG Regards, Bjoern

Hello John, i already know your project from the german forum. The Kibri station building has a lot of potential, you can build several very prototypical stations out of it. Although i think you might already know my thread there, i think this link could also be of interest for others who want to build this kit. I did some kitbashing and a complete repaint into the often used combination of yellow and red brick. You can read it on the linked page and the following pages in my thread here: http://www.h0-modellbahnforum.de/t329180f54887-Bahnhof-Nieder-Ramstadt-Traisa-in-H-11.html#msg3781402 I am very happy to meet you here, because i am doing it the other way round. Over the last few years i brought a lot of 00 models from my holidays in the UK and i'm thinking about modelling something for them to run on. Regards, Bjoern

I've got the exact same problems with Hatton's 6-pin Decoders. They behave as described in post #1. I have tried them in different locos, Hattons 14xx, Heljan 1366, Bachmann 64xx but the problems appear in all these locos. It seems as if these decoders are very (over-)sensitive to slightly dirty wheels and track. Even after cleaning, the locos suddenly stop an accelerate again after some time. I'm using a small white Roco z21 and also tried arduino-based DCC++ and JMRI Decoder Pro, same problems with both of them. When i use ESU Lokpilot micro decoders, these locomotives run fine. Regards, Bjoern

This website may also be of interest: http://www.bahnstatistik.de/RAL.htm Like the article in Wikipedia, this is the other way round, but years are shown for the colours and it is stated for what parts they have been used. There are some pictures and some colours are grouped according to the livery they belong to. Anyway, just look at some pictures of the protoype and combine your trains like it. The different liveries were mixed a lot in every era. -Björn