SweenyTod1

Thank you for your advice/ suggestions for improving the Minitrix unit, the motor goes well, the wobble seems to be generated in the wheels/valvegear area. In a collection I inherited from a deceased friend's estate and amongst a box of spares, there I found an N scale Arnold 5510 0-6-0 tank. It looks brand new in its box and sleeve. Despite the fact it is probably 20+ years old, it runs very well, quiet and doesn't wobble!! Comparing it to the Miintrix chassis, though the wheels are slightly smaller and with minimal valvegear, I think, with care, my Hunslet could be Arnold powered! The pony wheels will be straightforward to transfer on to a scratch built chassis extention. I may consider a strip down of the Minitrix chassis, once I have the loco working to my satisfaction. I also have a complete Lilliput 0-6-2 loco, from the same estate, but I understand that Shapeways do a "British" looking body that it will fit. I have done a search for another Parkside Hunslet, but no luck so far. It's a nice looking loco and being whitemetal, plenty of weight for traction. So onward and upward, plenty to do to exercise the brain, along with all the other projects, long, long overdue!! Stay safe and well. Tod

I've had this kit many years and it sits atop a Minitrix chassis. It has been in storage most of its time, but during a big clean up and redecoration of the mancave, it has resurfaced. I put it on my test plank track, but doesn't go very well. I gave it a squirt with some switch cleaner and oiled the bearing surfaces and though improved somewhat, it wobbles and slow speed control less than I would like. Is there a better quality r-t-r chassis that would be suitable and more reliable? I doubt if there is much I can do to improve the Minitrix unit, or is there? Any advice most welcome. Tod

As promised, I managed to solve the slipping gear wheel, but it wasn't easy. After two unsuccessful tries, I dismantled the valve gear, keeper and pickup plates. I was then able to lift out the centre driver with the offending loose gear. Under a magnifier, I looked for a split or crack, but found no issue except that splines on the axle were not very prominent allowing the gear to lose grip. After cleaning off oil and grease residue, lining up the gear centrally over the splines I applied ( very carefully ) some superglue. Once re assembled I gave a go on my short (90 cm) test track, back and forth several times. Smooth and quiet as it should be, thankfully. When I'm allowed out into the world again it will get a full workup, but for the time being, its back in it's box. I hope you will find this useful, if you get a similar problem. Happy modelling, Tod

Thank you both. As yet I haven't had chance to remove the keeper plate and if necessary the pickup plate as well. I hope its not a cracked gear, it was running nicely before the aforementioned speedo link failure. It just seems odd that they both happened at the same time. Once I get to do some surgery, I will report back with my findings and hopefully a happy result. Thanks again. Tod

Recently during a running session, my co operator noticed the speedo drive was hanging down. On inspection, I could see that it had become detached from under the valence. To return the loco quickly to service, I removed it from the crank to sort it out later. Back on the track it went a few inches, motor still going, but no traction. I found that the loco was free wheeling. Later on the workbench I found that the main drive gear had slipped sideways, therefore not engaging with the gear train. These two anomalies are purely co-incidental (I think), but has anyone else had similar issues, either one or both? What advice would you give regarding the gear misalignment? Once re-engaged will a spot of cyno secure it? I presume there are splines on the axle that are supposed to grip the gearwheel? Your thoughts (nice ones please) would be appreciated. Tod

Thanks Nile for the info. Not surprised about the warning about feedback. A friend recently killed a 00 loco motor, not realising that it was coreless. Luckily I was able to source a replacement motor. All is well now, but told which controllers are safe, so his GM "D" is ok. I use GMs combi or W. Also H&M controllers, ensuring those with "half wave" can only be used "full", a piece of tape preventing an accidental move of the switch!! Tod

Has anyone tested these new replacement chassis to power your railcars etc? I would presume they are better and more controllable. Feedback controllers, yes or no? Any advice welcome please. Tod

On the news today it was reported that many companies worldwide are affected by the Coronavirus. Many of our consumer goods, including our model supplies originate from China. Perhaps UK retailers are experiencing delays now and certainly in the near future, so we will have to be patient, tolerant and understand the bigger picture. Closer to home, we have had a severe battering from the recent storms and subsequent flooding (still on going), so again, deliveries will be affected whether there are problems in your area or not. Let's hope normality returns soon for ALL concerned, mail order being way down the list of priorities! Tod

You don't need to cut the wire. I desoldered one end, pulled it through and rethreaded it once the cams changed over, then resoldered it. I'm sure you must know someone who could do the wire bit for you if you can't. I live in Hampshire and would be happy to do the conversion for you FOC. PM me if you want me to do that. I'm away in Scotland ( Perthshire) just now but I'll be home at the weekend. Tod

I had a similar issue with a detailment of one of the originals. I got replacement cam/NEM socket types from A C Models of Eastleigh, Hampshire. Very easy to swap over. The cause of the derailing was flash on the cam catching on the sharp corners of the cam recess. I still have one car as made, but is ok, so I will leave it as is. No more derailing of my 8- car set. Tod

Thanks for that. As you can see, I have managed to sign in here. I'm in Pitlochry and the family schedule pretty busy, so I doubt I can escape to venture up to Strathspey. A pity, but we visit family a couple of times each year. Hopefully it will still be there next summertime. Cheers Tod

Agreed, I have just tried an 18, the smallest I have at present, so I will get some 17s to try. Just a thought though, could N/009 versions be able to fit the pockets and still engage with the larger ones? Another thought (painful!), I have some of the original types that fit in drag boxes. I can have a go at modding the tail of one into a "fishtail". It might work or not, nothing to lose, but I am away for the Hols, so must wait until I return. In the meantime, I may not have access to these pages, near the Cairngorms, so:- May I wish you all the very best of Seasonal good wishes, good health and fortune. Let's hope that 2020 provides us many tempting goodies to spend our hard earned dosh on!!! Best Wishes, Tod

What a great idea, I hadn't thought to do that. No. 18s should do the trick. I wonder how many Pullmans it will shift, as they are the only stock I have fitted Kaydees so far!!!? I've got two of the wee locos, so double headed perhaps? Tod

I have to disagree about the B12 tender. The frames were too deep resulting in the buffer height was wrong at 16mm instead of the correct 14mm. To achieve the overall height the body sides were reduced by 2mm. I hacked one about some years ago, by cutting and shutting and got a reasonable result, but nowhwere near the current model standard. To be fair though, the Triang/early Hornby versions were easily recognisable as GER and the flaired tops not bad. An A1 body awaits its conversion with a Crownline kit in my "to do sometime" box. One of these days.................! Tod

Aberfeldy had one very similar, but the main difference is that the steps were on the other end. Those that have started/made the kit, is it possible to modify it to be "left handed"? It was also not as tall, but that would be easy to change. I have a project in mind based on Highland theme. so this cabin is on my shopping list, even if it can't be changed sensibly without major butchery! Tod

Hi Robert, I did PM my email to you, but not received your drawing yet. I have had to buy a new laptop recently and it doesn't recognise much of my details' I still am in the process of updating, changing passwords etc. I hope RMweb knows who I am now???!! Please try again to PM me, if that doesn't work, flag it up on the usual pages, then we can go from there. Many thanks for your offer, I look forward to seeing it. regards Tod

I fell under its spell and the little red one arrived today. It still has the wagon attached, but not for long! Once again a superb runner, even over some uneven trackwork on my test plank. I really must sort that out! Tod

As a member of the GNoS society I am aware of that M7 conversion by Des Byrne, the modelling guru I have been in touch with him about this loco. I seem to recall he used the old Triang chassis, not the latest version. When (if) I get round to making one, I'll produce a compensated chassis with a Hi-Level gearbox. They are so good, which I have used on several remotor projects. So back to the here and now, the list gets ever longer, which includes at least two small layouts in both 00 and 009 and as we say, one day..............................!? Tod

Sometime back in a previous life, I posted up about 12-wheeled Pullmans, now rare as rockinghorse pooh. They were China made, so the moulds must still lurk somewhere? I have aquired three brake cars that have the full width vestibule ends during production time and later, but cannot get the Kitchen car No.45 (?) that was in one of the coach add-on packs This also had the full width ends. Again, the tooling should be hiding somewhere. There are so many early (between the world wars and indeed later) train formations that could be achieved with just those two mouldings. So come on Hornby, please please, PLEASE!!!! let me tick off one of my bucket list, before I kick it!!!!! Tod

Are you aware that Modelmaster (decals fame) advertise some resin NBR loco kits for 2020 release? You may find their website useful as they describe (no photos yet) that they will have detailed fittings. Your projects are coming along nicely by the way. looking forward to seeing the finished result. I have some basic drawings for a GNOS 0-4-4 Tank (LNER G10) they used on their "Subbies" out of Aberdeen along Deeside to Ballater. Its very similar to an M7, but the chassis would be difficult to correct, so a scratchbuilt chassis would probably be the easier way to go. Its definitely on my "when I get time/wish list/ a long way down my dreams list of projects priorities", notwithstanding the "domestic Managements" lists, which somehow are more urgent and important!!!? So keep the faith and crack on. I will follow your progress with interest, if not a little jealously. Tod

I looked at Rails website today and its listed as "in stock", £71.99 and free postage! Got the first one already, but seriously tempted to get the Dewers one. They really are cracking little runners (without the wagon in tow, which is a waste really) with so much potential. Small, but perfectly formed!! Tod

When Hornby brought out thr LNER Sandringham loco, The artwork on the box was superb, BUT the model's artwork was anything but. The misaligned cabside number and tender lettering was all over the place. After two returns to the box shifter, phone calls to Hornby, who sent me a replacement (still no better), I redid it myself and renamed it in the process! So Hornby's QA/QC department still does not have the required knowledge and skillset they should have. I am very wary about what I buy from them now. Exhibition prices may be a bit higher, but at least you can see it in the flesh first, before you buy. Tod

I'm not a DCC user, but I have to concede that if there is any doubt what can be achieved, to convince someone starting a new layout project, this demonstration is overwhelming! I did a calculation of an estimated cost to convert all my locos etc and as a pensioner, £3-4000 is way beyond my resources. However, having a distillery based small layout in mind, I could be tempted, depending on the cost of a control system and the components to put in my Ruston. I have no idea at all, what that would be. Getting that kind of control and sound out of such a tiny loco is impressive indeed. I could be tempted, but don't tell the wife........!!! Tod

In all the pages on this subject, apart from DCC and analogue control, I haven't seen any comments about feedback control and whether it would be good or bad for this delightful little loco. Today I had access to both types, but was wary of running it with feedback (Kentrol) controllers, but ran it a couple of feet both ways. Later, on a friend's layout with Gaugemaster normal controllers it was given an extensive workout and in both instances, without its wagon. The latter layout's code 100 set track is not in the best condition, so not surprised it stalled once or twice at very slow speed. So, feedback or no feedback, that is the question, whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the smoke and nasty smells, or be safe amongst the DC normality ( apologies to the Great Bard of course!) ? Tod