SweenyTod1

Thanks very much Pete. I will do that, but I need to establish the motor failure, as without that going, I can't test it. I'm away from home for a few weeks, this week, so I may not get the opportunity to open up the body before the family visit to Scotland. I'm hoping its a simple solder job, but while I'm doing that I will attend to the gear issue. Thanks again, Tod

Oh you hero Charlie, I will do that tomorrow. Thanks very much. Tod

Thanks for your responses, most helpful, especially the info on Gaugemaster. Many moons ago, I was their Southern area sale rep, but didn't last due to a foot injury, as you will realise meant a lot of legwork, often not able to park my van anywhere near the shops I visited!! Anyway, water under the bridge, so I will start to investigate, starting with the duff gear, though with the lights working, power is getting to those from the track, a mystery for sure. Assuming it is DCC ready, there must be a blanking board lurking somewhere in the bowels of this beast. I have experienced a fault with a Hornby loco whereby the tender was rewired to bypass all of the DCC bit. It works a treat since. I may end up doing the same to this one, but we shall see. Progress will be slow as I'm heading to Scotland soon, so may have to wait until my return. More anon. Tod

On Thursday last my railbus was happily was running round my friend's layout. After several circuits I reversed it and very soon emitted a knocking sound, slowed down to a crawl then stopped. I removed the wheelsets to discover a split axle gear on one end, which would not grip, understandably. Placing the bus back on the track the lights work fine in either directional power applied, but no go, not even a hum of the motor. I have yet to venture into the disassemble procedure to see if the motor has died or a wire come off etc. The instructions show me how to get inside, removing horns to get at screws which seems to be very complicated compared with other models access procedure. So apart from the duff gear and a possible dead motor is there any other likely cause to resolve. Also does Heljan have a UK based service centre I can contact for the necessary spares or can send the unit to be fixed please? Any help and advice most welcome. Tod

Here I go again, stable door bolts come to mind! I'm looking for the single unit in its original passenger time before it was used at the test centre, ie Green with speed whiskers. Dc kits used to do a kit, but not available on their website. Silver fox does a rtr one for £150, far too much for my budget. So if anyone has a kit, in any stage of build needing a new home. then please contact me. Ever hopeful, Tod

Hi Julia and Al, Many thanks for the update, disappointing yes, but fully understand the difficulties you face. I will be patient though and wait for these to eventually appear, but not too long please, as I'm getting a bit long in the tooth!! Keep up the good work, Tod

It appears I was wrong. I asked for one and two come along at once! Thanks to a nice chap across the "Pond", we eventually completed a good deal. So D6722 and D6755 have joined my diesel stud. I'm a very happy bunny! Tod

The J70s could manage 30-40 fruit vans, so should be able to pull a crane. Luckily most of the track was flat as a pancake!! I have fond memories of the Fens, being a Littleport boy.

Yes indeed, the first two had smaller rectangular windows, also a straight pipe exhaust. The first one had no visible pipe above the casing, but was soon added. I modified an Airfix/Dapol kit and managed to obtain etched valences and cowcatchers to make a good representation of 11102, in black livery, powered by a Mainline chassis. I remember seeing them, as a small child, amazed at these odd looking locos wandering across the road. I have vague recollections of the Y6s and J70s, but don't recall the double cab Sentinels, which would be a suggestion for a project. There has been a kit (Kalgarin? )some time ago, but I don't think there is one now. No doubt someone will put me right? Tod

It appears I'm looking for the impossible, so I'm modifying my search for any make, but green livery 37, preferably without yellow ends, but not the priority. Here's hopeful, Tod

I'm looking for this loco, complete. A non runner would be acceptable as I have a spare motor. All sorted now thanks. Tod

Well I think that 50 + years of model making and the military 5 year technical/academic apprenticeship, plus the serving time, both afloat and ashore, should give me some degree of "expertise" to recommend or not, an engineering procedure. Also I used bold, not capitals. I did quantify my caution with a warning to clean off the abrasive. To leave it could wear away the bearing over time, causing more issues, already mentioned in these posts. My methodology worked for me and I put it out there gratuitously as a suggestion, not dogmatically. If it was thought that, then my apologies. So a good time, I believe, to close the subject now. Happy modelling to all, stay safe and well. Tod

No Jake, though I did work for Gaugemaster, back in the late 90s, as a sales rep for just a few months. I had and still do have an arthritis issue with my left foot, causing me to have to resign, as walking about was an essential part of the job. My knowledge and "expertise?" comes from over 50 years of modelling as a hobby. I am or was a Shipwight in the RN and RNOman for 33 years, so I can wield a hammer quite skilfully really!! My main interest is 4mm scale/00, LNER and 009 freelance. Music,(guitar, tenor banjo, mandolin and percussion) also feature in my busy life I bet you wished you hadn't asked me now?!! I have to keep the grey cells working, reaching three quarters of a century this coming Saturday. 'Er indoors would like me to do a lot of jobs around the house, but finding the time...............? Hey Ho, onward and upward I'll keep the faith and soldier on. Happy modelling Jake Tod

An update for you all. Since the loco was put back into service, its owner reports that my cure (dissolving the very thick grease) has indeed worked. He ran it both light engine and with a reasonable load on a circular layout, in both directions for over an hour, no squeal encountered. I would not recommend any abrasive treatment on the motor shaft, but if you do that, make sure it is cleaned completely afterwards. If the flywheel is effective, then its unlikely the bearings are tight. A gentle fore and aft finger pressure on the flywheel should detect a tiny movement, will also eliminate any bearing tightness. Getting rid of that gluey grease is the way to go, in my opinion and experience. The Servisol switch cleaner, sold by Squires of Bognor ( my supplier) and others doesn't harm plastics and did the job for me to free the clogged up gearbox. Too much oil is just as bad as not enough. Get it on the armature and you will have a lot of smoke and probably kill the motor! Again you can use the cleaner on the electrickery bits as well, its designed use. I rest my case M'lud. Tod

Well, the saga continued with a relapse after "treatment". I removed the axle keeper plate and saw residue of very thick grease, which was more like glue when a cotton bud was applied. A liberal dose of Servisol switch cleaner (magic in a can!) removed said glue/grease. After more testing, all is quiet, just a slight knock in reverse, but I believe they were called "Gronks" anyway. Very appropriate in this case! With body reunited to chassis, the owner is collecting it later today. It appears, as far as I can detect, the gloopy grease was the cause. I also discovered on my very short test track, that the flywheel is very effective, by running on after the power is turned off!! It certainly didn't do that before. Happy modelling boys and girls, Tod

Thank you both for your input, let's hope my cure lasts and I can resist reaching for a hammer!!!! Seriously though, I can only assume that the gears didn't have sufficient lubrication during assembly and they rub together causing the squeal. I joked about the noise level, but it really was ear splitting. I will continue testing over the next few days before returning the loco to its owner, if it remains silent. Just for the record, the loco is D3721, green with a black radiator, no yellow warning panels. Tod

I was asked by a friend who owns this 08 to investigate an intermittent very loud squeal. Removing the body, I could see the ends of the motor shaft and either end of the flywheel, to which I applied a small amount of lube oil. Still the noise persisted, so I loosened the holding screw of the weight/ circuit board which sits over the gearbox. I had hoped I would gain access to the gears, but no. However, just above the shaft there were two small square holes above the shaft in the gearbox housing. I applied a little squirt of Servisol cleaner into said holes and so far on my rolling road test, no squeal. Yippee!!! Have I fixed it, you may ask? Well with a following wind and all the stars in perfect alignment, I really hope so, 'cos my hearing is already compromised and this 'orrible noise was painful to say the least. Has anyone had this unpleasant experience with any of their locos? Do tell if you had and apart from using a very large hammer, how did you fix it? Sanity restored (I hope)? Tod

Excellent news. I'm pleased you have it running as it should again. Keep an eye on the traction tyres, as they can wear and slip if used a lot with heavy loads. If that does happen, a little drop of superglue will cure it. Use the tip of a scalpel or a small flat blade screwdiver to lift the tyre away from the wheel and apply a tiny amount of glue with a pin onto the wheel groove. Carefully remove the scalpel/sscrewdiver and ensure the tyre is pressed into the groove. Its best to leave it for an hour or so before putting the loco back in traffic, preferably with lighter loads to start with. Should you ever have to replace the tyre, you won't have a major job to clean off the glue spot . Spare tyres are available from the usual sources. Keep the A4 faith! Tod

I suggest a visit to your local library. It will no doubt have a selection of books in the transport section, which may include useful research on UK systems. Also have a look in the local history section, as there are often street scenes containing trams and street furniture, (overhead wires, support poles etc.) A favourite type of shot in Edwardian days showing people posed in front of a tramcar reveal much detail useful to historians and modellers alike. Good luck with your research and I can also recommend joining one of the tram societies, eg, The Tramway and Light Railway Society, Tramway Museum Society or the Light Rail Transit Association. Any or all are knowledgeable in all things, Tram. Tod ( Solent T&LRS member)

They did indeed build cars for the P&HLR, but they had a small but noticeable radius at the top of the side window frames, as you can see in the bulkhead window frames. Cars cascaded from the Gosport system to the P&HLR, the frames were square. No. 17 had additional framing added to the side windows, but not the centre one. No.13 is preserved and resides at Wicor/ Portchester store along with other local preserved busses and artifacts. I have 00 models of Nos. 5,8, 13 and 17 which used to run on my P&HLR layout, sadly in need of a full restoration itself!........One day? So my humble opinion is that the mystery one is not an original P&HLR tram as far as I can see. Good luck with your research and do let us know the answer when you find out. Tod

True , but that's not Waterlooville, as your quote of the address shows, 4 to 5 miles away. I used to belong to that club back in the 70s and 80s when it was in Portsmouth. It was taken over by an EM modellers group who out voted us 00 members out. However not to be downhearted, we formed the Solent Area Group of the Tramway and Light Railway Society and still going strong. So as you see Ray, I'm well aware of the SHMRC, who are also still going too. Our interests are different and that's how it will continue, new members always welcome! Tod

I wasn't aware there was a club on my doorstep Ray?

The tyres are a strange profile, in that in cross section they are pointed. Thickness of the wheel is exagerated by the spokes that stick out from wheel hubs. A most odd design. A friend of mine produces white metal kits, so I will have a chat with him to see of he can produce something better. I have three of these cars, 308 Prince Henry 1916 1:68 301 Fiat Modello 8CV 1901 1:58 306 Simplex 1912 1:76 All are made in Hong Kong So you can see that they are all different scales, though the last one is bang on for 4mm/ft. I've had them for many years and cost me 75p each, they still had the price stickers on the bottom of them. I had to remove them to give you the detail above. I will report back about the success or otherwise regarding the wheel saga. Happy modelling folks, Tod

I've got these two vehicles and considered remodelling them. Apart from a repaint, the wheels definitely are wrong to me. They sit on my windowsill begging to be dealt with, but they are way down the priority list, into that " one day I'll get around to it" department! However with my 75th fast approaching, hand/eye skills ain't as good as they used to be! Best I don't put things off for too long. Tod

The springs measure 20 mm overall including the support brackets on each end. If ok you can PM for the posting arrangement/cost etc. It will be good to finish this little project. Thanks, Tod