simonjk

I've just got the RTC one and have managed to scratch a bit of the blue paint while separating the body to fit a chip. Knew I should have paid to have one installed. Going to try and touch it up, but not sue what paint colour to use. Can anyone advise ? Thanks. Like the model but not impressed with how you have to open it up.

Mine to. Along with those for my Class 50, 31 and Mark 2C's. Going to be an interesting credit card bill. Wasn't expecting them all at once.

Thanks for the replies. I have got a sound fitted 90 so suppose I could try the decoder in that. I don't have a tester but I do have the JMRI decoder on my laptop and the interface to my Powercab. I may just try remapping the function keys fist and see if that sorts it, otherwise I'll give it a try in another loco etc. Thanks again. Simon

Hi, Having issues with my Bachmann Class 90. Its 90005 with a 36-569 decoder in it. The decoder reports 145 as the manufacture and 37 as the version. Today I changed the long address and since then the DCC functions don't seem to be working correctly. One of the obvious problems was that I couldn't get the pantograph to go up. First a tried a reset CV8=8 but that didn't make any difference. Eventually I dug the packaging out for the decoder and changed the settings to the recommended defaults. Two of these were CV 181 (Function Key that controls the pantograph) to 6 from 0 and 309 to 2 from 0 (Function key that controls braking). That sorted the pantograph issue out but now F2 is braking and switching between Day / Night modes. Also Functions 2-5 look to be one out e.g. F3 is doing the Directional Lights Off (Non Panto end), F4 Directional Lights Off (Panto end) and F5 is doing nothing from what it says. I'm fairly sure before I started all this I didn't have a brake function and when I read the leaflet that came with the loco that does seem to imply F0 Direction Lights F1 Cab Lights F2 Day/Night Mode F3 Directional Lights Off (Non Panto end) F4 Directional Lights Off (Panto end) F5 Pantograph Up/Down Is there a way to do a complete/hard reset of the decoder or how do I remap to what it says on the decoder documentation i.e. F0 Direction Lights F1 Cab Lights (Directional) F2 Brake Button F3 Day/Night Mode F4 Directional Lights Off (Non Panto end) F5 Directional Lights Off (Panto end) F6 Pantograph Up/Down Or does this decoder not support braking and I should just set CV309 back to 0 ? Hope this makes sense. Thanks Simon

Hi, Can anyone help me ? I am thinking of saving up for the new Hornby DVT so was wondering about the coaches I could run with it. In BR days did DVT's run with a mix of MK2 stock, guessing D/E/F and MK3's on the WCML or was it just MK3's ? Also if they did would the coaches all be in Exec/Swallow livery or would they be a mix with some blue/grey ? I've seen lots of pic's and videos of mixed liveries around this time, but none with DVT's and blue/grey coaches. Thanks Simon

I had an issue with both cars wanting to go the same way. This post helped me resolve it. Amended the cv's on one and that fixed it. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/140221-readjusting-decoder-direction/ Simon

Hi, Just to say that I've done this using PL10's and PL15's and it works a treat. Sound on my TTS locos doesn't cut out when I switch the points and all the other DCC loco's are fine. I've just got to be careful the points are correctly set and I don't change them until a train and entered or left. Thanks again to everyone for the help. Simon

It was more out of curiosity I was trying it and I wondered if I was doing something wrong with the process I was following on the PowerCab handset. I assumed the chips were fine as they ran and the lights worked as expected. I normally don't do anything other than set the address. Although while playing around I have noticed that out of the 4 cars (I bought 2 156's) 3 run at the same speed and one runs a lot slower at slower speeds but the same at faster speed settings. I'm still running the units in so these might clear up. I'll do a decoder reset as that cleared everything yesterday when I was playing and leave it as is. Thanks for your time. Simon

Hi Ray, I believe they are ESU 53615 Decoders. When I read the CHIP is returns Manufacturer 151 and Version 255. Simon

Hi, Trying to use the Automatic Motor Tuning Feature, for my new Realtrack 156, on a PowerCab by setting CV54 to 0 then pressing F1 but can't seem to get it to work. I go onto "Programming On The Main" select the loco number and then select CV. I then enter 54 for the CV and set it to 0. I then press Escape and the number 1, I assume that's F1, on the controller but nothing happens. I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong in the process but getting fed of up trying so I'd thought I'd seek some advice. Any ideas what I am doing wrong ? Thanks Simon

Hi Nigel, I shall give option 2 ago and see if it works. If not I can always try the relay option. Going to be a while as I need to build the baseboards etc for the new loop. I'll put an update on at some point in the future as it how it's gone. Thanks to both you and John for your help on this. Simon

Nigel, Just been to check and I am using a transformer outputting 16V AC. I was going to use centre-off biased SPDT switches, like I do for the existing points, but as I've not bought anything yet I can change if reqd. Did plan on using PL11 due to space restrictions but I've had a look and I think I could use surface mounted PL10's. Again nothing yet purchased. This would allow use of something like a PL-15 Microswitch. But I think I may be happier controlling from the switch not the point for reliability, although open to suggestions. Thanks. Simon

Thanks John and Nigel. I think this looks like a great solution. The sound won't be an issue as I will be turning it off in the loops as they are for storage. I can set the route then start up the sound and sort out the lights etc before driving the train off and onto the scenic part of the layout. Also I'll only ever be driving the one train into or out at anyone time. From what I've read I'll need latching relays. As they'll be taking the power for the track I'll need one rated for up to 24V and I guess around 5 amps in case I ever upgrade my powercab to something more powerful. I'll want to control them from the switch I used to operate my point rather than adding a switch on the point. My points motors are solenoid and controlled with SPDT switches with the center being the off position. I tend to use Rapid electronics for my electrical bits. I wondered if something like this would be suitable https://www.rapidonline.com/te-connectivity-rt424f24-dpdt-pcb-relay-24vdc-8a-latching-dual-coil-54-5972 What I am not sure about is the point motor part is DC where as the DCC track power is AC and if this needs to be taken into account. Also I am not quite sure of how to link the switch and the switch element of the relay. I think I understand the DCC track part of the relay. Any advice on that would be great. Once again thanks for your help and it's really appreciated. Simon

Hi, I can move 4 further round the loops and move 1 further right so it's right by the points. But that would make 1-2 less than a train length. Which I think just moves the problem somewhere else. I shouldn't have bought that extra MK3 for my 125 set !! So if I am going to continue with this plan I need to consider Nigel's second suggestion of inverting. Can I just clarify a few points on that if you don't mind ? Cut the track on both sides at 1,2,3 & 4 and fit insulating joiners. Power the Red-Green normally from the system - Take the power for this straight from the back of the power cab track output and use as a feed to the Red/Green track. Fit main layout with one reverser - So take the power from the back of the power cab feed and into the 1st reverser. Then the output from the 1st reverser into the existing DCC track power bus I am using for the layout. This will power the existing layout. Fit storage sidings with second reverser. So take the power from the back of the feed and into the 2nd reverser. Then the output from the 2nd reverser and feed to the storage loops. just want to make sure I understand it before I spend any money on the track, DCC modules etc. Thanks for your time. Simon

Thanks Nigel, Interesting solution but unfortunately path 2 to 4 isn't long enough. Simon

Hi, I am looking to add a reverse loop with some storage loops to my layout. I’ve attached a diagram showing what I am adding. The yellow and blue lines are the rails on a single piece of track. Only one train will run at once either into or out of the loop. I’ve not shown all the storage loops in the loop for clarity. I have a NCE Powercab. The stock to be stored in the loop will include Hornby 125’s with lights and sound in the power cars. All my locos have lights and I have a couple with sound. Don’t have any stay alive fitted to the DCC decoders. I’ve no lights in any coaches. Stock is all modern. As I will be storing stock in the loop I was hoping to isolate the rails A and B. This section of track is 100 inches and longer than the length of my largest train, the 125 with sound and lights. I also believe I will need to isolate at C and D. This will be a short section around 18 inches. I have marked W,X,Y&Z as alternative isolating sections but I don’t think I need to do it this way. I assume I will need two auto reversing modules. Also I am going to be using PL11 motors for ease of access. What I’d appreciate some advice on is Does this look ok and vaguely sensible? Any advice on the best module for a Powercab ? Do I just have 1 feed in the isolated sections? A & B will be 100 inches and therefore made up of several pieces of track. Normal DCC practice would be for several feeds but I am not sure if this will affect the operation of the reversing module ? Or do I wire a connection between the end of each piece of track to aid connectivity? Have I missed anything? Thanks in advance for any advice. Simon