Keith Addenbrooke

43 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

 

 

Anyway, what are your thoughts?

Hi Phil, this "two-point" layout is tried and tested, with many successful variations over the years in the field of micro-layouts. The other popular two-point approach (at no extra cost) is an Inglenook shunting puzzle. As you suggest having both passenger and freight operations I'd stick with the version you have though. It'll be interesting to see how the diagonal layout can help disguise the straight track.

It may not be possible to directly connect the Kato N track to your OO9 layout, but if you did find a way then one layout could become the fiddle yard for the other (even if perhaps only when no-one is looking). Just a thought.

1 hour ago, Phil Parker said:

If I hide this in here, maybe no-one will notice.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdJ2aYcJ1Ho

 

Full details in the August issue of BRM, on sale in a couple of weeks.

Can't wait to see more!  Personally, it reminds me a little of Welshpool Station on the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Rly as it was a decade or so ago - I think they've added more sidings in recent years.  All you'd need would be the water tower by the buffers (opposite the platform) and it I think it could class as "inspired by."*

Is there a fiddle yard?  Oh, sorry, I should to wait till August BRM...

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* From memory, their siding off the loop faces back up the running line, but I don't remember ever seeing anything in it when I was there, and there was a signal box, but now I'm heading into detail - it's the atmosphere the model has created that I love about the video.  That, and the variation on roundy-roundy...

I used to go on holiday each year to Weston-Super-Mare as a child: those donkeys haven't aged a bit in over 40 years!

Berry, I have to say, I'm impressed with the smooth tracklaying and running quality you've achieved with such extremely tight curves - if my calculations are correct these curves would be classed as excessively tight for N gauge, let alone OO.

Could I ask what type of controller you're using?  I've never owned one of these small tank engines, but have always read that they're better at fast running than slow: looks to me like your video shows a perfectly reasonable running speed (ie: not too fast), Keith.

On 22/06/2019 at 08:49, Jerry1975 said:

looking very good, I agree that the Metcalfe kit roofs are all the same, you could use some wills slate sheets but that would be an extra cost, another idea is making your own roof from a piece of plastic card and making your own tiles, junk mail leaflets are ideal for this, a bit tedious sticking individual tiles on but worth the effort.

 

Jerry.

Indeed, individual tiles are something I'd like to try with the Inn - the photo below is a Scalescenes coal office Download kit, which I made as a test piece, partly to see how the roof looked.  I followed the instructions and overlayed the rows of roof tiles.  I did "snip" part way up the join between each tile in each row, but the effect was only partly achieved (there's a giveaway curve along the length of the 4th row up), so I ought to try individual tiles.  One big advantage I'm finding with small layouts / dioramas is that these task shouldn't be overwhelming.*

As a general point - I'm very impressed with the Scalescenes model - the inclusion of rainwater goods (guttering and drainpipes) is very effective, and the kits have plenty of features that add 3-D effects.  My only problem is that I don't have a very good printer, but I think the Scalescenes designer John Wiffen is a genius: well worth looking at the website.

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* I may of course regret saying this.

On 21/06/2019 at 15:32, MrDuck said:

Keith nice work on the cobbled yard.

Thank you, but I can't take any credit for the cobbled yard - all I've done is scribe along the pre-printed lines marking each row of cobbles on the Metcalfe base, and then pressed down the side of each cobble with the reverse of a Stanley knife blade to create a small indentation (see photo).  It's a nicely printed base: the lighter area in this photo will ultimately be under an archway - there is a darker shade in the open yard area that will be exposed to the elements.

There is some quite incredible modelling being shared in the Boxfiles, Micro layouts & Dioramas Forum at the moment - every time I look there is something inspiring to see.  I'm very much working at the opposite end of the scale, but am being encouraged to try new things.

My latest distraction from progress with Short Edge - while I await the weather to improve and time to sort out the garage (the prescursor to building baseboards - even simple ones) - has come in the form of a Metcalfe Coaching Inn kit received as a present.  As one of my projects includes a brewery, it's a welcome addition, though I think it will be displayed separately.

This kit has been around a while: it's not as sophisticated as some of Metcalfe's most recent offerings, but is still worthy of inclusion in the range.  A display board is provided, measuring about 7.5" square (so it's cakebox size for reference).

An issue with card kits can be a lack of 3-D relief, and this is apparent with the pavement markings on the base.  My first task has therefore been to scribe along the pavement joints and add the simplest of weatherings (pencil in the joints).  These close up photos show the parts I've done (top photo), compared to parts not yet done (bottom photo).  I hadn't planned to post any photos, but if something as simple as this can make a visible difference, maybe it's worth sharing. 

(The solid grey area will be under the building).  For the cobbled yard, I've just scribed along each row - enough to gives the feeling of a profile).

18 hours ago, MrDuck said:

Keith thank you for pointing the weather and how slabs change colours. The working diorama does sound good. 

Would a light grey be a good base colour to work with and then gradually darken.

Hi, I'm afraid I'm really not the person to ask at this point, but it would seem a logical approach to start with a light grey / primer base coat - might be worth experimenting on a couple of spare 'slabs' to get the effect you'd like first if you can, so you can see how they look after they've dried, Keith.

About concrete slab colours, one thought is that many such slabs seem to change their shade of grey from light to dark quite dramatically when it rains, so it may help to think about the weather you want to portray. Just a thought - excellent idea for a working diorama, Keith.

19 hours ago, long island jack said:

some great photo's on this FB group

American street running

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/742351272532703/

On 12/06/2019 at 17:36, PhilH said:

Don't know if this has been on before, am assuming it's kosher and not pshopped.

I may be wrong, but when I clicked on the link to the Facebook Group in Long Island Jack's post, the picture that came up as the banner for the Facebook Group looked to me like the same train in the post by PhilH (having dropped off a 2nd box car at some point - at first I thought it might be the CN one in the photo on RMweb but on closer inspection - bigger screen - I don't think it is).

9 hours ago, south_tyne said:

Hi Keith,

 

Thanks very much for sharing that design. I was always a huge fan of Mr Arendt's website and the small layout scrapbook. If you don't mind, I will have a play about with that concept when I am doing my full-size planning and mockups 

 

Cheers, 

David 

Go for it! One thing I'm learning is that, when I'm looking at plans and ideas to modify for my own projects, it can also help to refer back to protoype photos as often as possible too for details. I don't do it nearly often enough, but there are plenty of resources to refer to.

On 10/06/2019 at 10:22, marc smith said:

Another option for you may be to use a sector-plate as fiddle yard, and add an additional siding.....
Yes, your layout then becomes an Inglenook - but with only one point. And you then have an additional road (say at the rear) to place your loaded wagons....

Let us know what you decide - and good luck with it. Have fun

Echoing the comments from Marc Smith above, a design I submitted to Carl Arendt's Micro-Layout website nearly fifteen years ago now worked on just that principle - it was designed for 4mm scale / OO gauge, not 7mm, but was intended to fit into a shoebox, with a traverser (rather than a sector plate) on the lid.

I'm afraid I didn't get very far building it and it never progressed beyond a lined box, but it does incorporate some of the ideas Marc suggests if they're of interest.

Keith.

To add to the comments above - I had a wonderful afternoon at the show: well worth the drive down from Merseyside (and back).  Thank you to all involved - the organiser (it was nice to be able to say "thank you" in person this afternoon too), all the exhibitors, some of whom had made very early starts, to the team and the traders.  To see 20 layouts (NB: more than the 18 on the programme), well presented, running well and representing a very good mix of scales, gauges, prototypes and eras was a treat, but best of all was the readiness of everyone to engage in conversation (including a trader happy to offer modelling advice too). 

In just two hours I picked up helpful and achievable tips on:

Baseboard construction (including legs)

Track and Wiring

Simple Point control

Ballasting and Weathering

Buildings and Scenery, including backscenes

Layout presentation (including use of background sound)

This may well be the only exhibition I make this year - if so, I have been both satisfied and encouraged to press on with my own small layouts and dioramas.

Thank you.

Would love to see some photos of the show on this thread if it's possible: I'd hoped to come on Sunday afternoon, but timing was very tight - and then 3/4s of a million people turned up in Liverpool city centre at next to no notice meaning I couldn't risk it (due to an evening appointment). Do we have the dates for next year?

In the last post I said my next step would be to practice with a static Dapol OO model of City of Truro kit, as I've not made many plastic kits.  The packaging explains the tooling is from Rosebud / Kitmaster kits that have been around longer than I have, so there's some tidying up to do along the way.  I've built this as a test piece, and will happily admit to making plenty of mistakes - it has stretched my basic modelling skills, however I have been able to produce a model with relatively free-running wheels and coupling rods, which for me is an achievement.

Painting is one of my many weaknesses, and there are some errors (the 'fly cranks' and axle boxes should have been red - and I know the safety valve cover, chimney cap and whistles need repainting when I have a metallic alternative to hand), but I am encouraged by how the cab detailing has turned out:

The principal learning point is that the satin and gloss paints I have 'in stock' are very shiny - the tender coal above and the close up below show this:

For a display model in ex-works condition, that will be viewed from much further away than the 'publicity shot' below when on a bookshelf diorama, the time has been well spent - these kits are a good way to practice, and I would encourage anyone to have a go (this one cost less than £10 from a local model shop).

Baseboards will probably have to wait until the summer holidays now, but in the meantime I'm planning to work on a couple of Ratio building kits, including the Castle Cary Station Building I need for Short Edge, and for which more sombre colours will be a must.

18 hours ago, MyRule1 said:

Sorry did not make clear - OO

 

Started playing with track and feel that a run round that I am happy with and at least 2 siding in the fiddle yard does stretch things a bit far. Anyway using pilot loco's on DCC's does make things operationally more interesting,

 

Thanks for the reply - I realised after I'd posted that it was my rushed reading of the opening post: it does say OO gauge shunting puzzle.

Are you including the fiddle yard within the 7' length (some do, some add on space for a "fiddle stick" or loco lift as an extra)? I agree a run round and fiddle yard for two coach trains will be tight in 7' - I've tried many times to crack that one in similar spaces. Sounds like DCC is giving you an alternative. Will be interested to see what you settle on. Keep having fun, Keith.

Afraid I don't know anything about motorbikes, but it's the display case* that's the first thing that stood out for me (followed by the quality and atmosphere of the model itself). Are you able to share anything about how the display case was made? It looks like a metal structure of some kind? I also like the way the sloping front draws us into the scene, and the suitably weathered road sign is a nice touch to finish. Thankyou for sharing your model.

* the word 'baseboard' seems inadequate here.

Could I ask what size the module is (front to back)? This will help me understand the effect of the forced perspective. It is a very effective model.

The next buildings I need are from plastic kits, for the main Short-Edge layout, and my other project: Union Station.  I have a couple of kits not assigned to a project, including a static Dapol City of Truro, which will give me some practice at assembly and painting.  Ironically, I suspect it's probably not the best loco to try weathering - my guess is that more effort went into keeping Truro clean when it was in service than most other engines.

I've been thinking further about the right hand end of my Short-Age Brewery practice piece.  The idea I keep coming back to is that of linking the two layout modules together for operation, which will influence my approach to building / joining baseboards:

This gives 5 places to 'spot' wagons, and the schematic starts to resemble a stretched-out variation on John Allen's classic Timesaver shunting puzzle.  Joining the Brewery to the Station gives the run-round needed for the kickback siding (5).  I'm still thinking about the "?" area, which now needs to fit next to the Station.

Granted, it's not realistic when set up like this - I can't think of any examples with an Engine Shed in that central position, but the enhanced operating possibilities give something to concentrate on, and when the modules are separated and put back on their shelves, they should still each look OK....

...as long as I move forwards to actually building them.  Given the pace I can work, and the practice I need along the way, a realistic deadline for 'completion' of this project (and Union Station) is starting to look like December 2020: the overall space I'm looking to cover is the size of 18 cakeboxes, and it took me three months to complete just one of those (with two practice pieces along the way).  There won't be much to show for a while yet, but I'm enjoying getting started.

Go for it - it ought to be possible in 7' x 2' (OO gauge by the sound of it) to develop a plan that offers both the run-round (1.) and Inglenook Shunting Puzzle (2.), but I would certainly encourage getting out the track pieces and some rolling stock to see what works and looks right.*

As for baseboards, I've come unstuck at that point too - I think the key to overcoming is to have a plan you really want to develop to give the motivation to push on past that point (at least, that's the basis I'm working on).

* the definition of "looks right" in this context being what you want it to be, of course

Afraid I just came across this news this afternoon rather belatedly, and like everyone who has already commented above, am deeply saddened and shocked.  As with many others, I first encountered Jack's ideas on Carl Arendt's website well over a decade ago, and was struck by his capacity to not only generate simple yet effective micro-layout ideas, but also to bring them to life: whenever I saw the name "Shortliner" I knew I'd be seeing something good.  As an earlier contributor to this thread also noted, it was a proud moment for me when Jack commented only recently that an idea of mine had prompted one of his - which led me to stretch my own thinking further too.  For me, that is the mark of a true encourager, who we will all miss.  My condolences to family and friends, Keith.

Steve, I hope it's OK, but I've referenced your layout in a post on my own build thread in this Forum this evening.  I'm including a Metcalfe Brewery Kit in a Test module I'm making, and yours is the best example I've seen as to how effectively the kit can be weathered.  I've never tried weathering, and won't expect to achieve much (my build is a test piece after all), but I wanted to point towards an example that I've been very impressed with, that shows what can be done.  Keith.

Luke, I hope it's OK. but I've referenced this layout in a post this evening on my own thread.  I've often thought it would be nice to include a small wharf / dockside on a layout, and you've clearly demonstrated there is room.  I doubt I'll be able to produce anything as effective as you've got if I do go for it, but I'm encouraged to consider it having seen how well you've made it fit into the sort of space a micro-layout offers.  Thanks, Keith.

First signs of progress – the Metcalfe Brewery Kit for my Test Piece – “Short-Age Brewery.”  The kit fits together well and is the perfect size for what I need: there is room for the siding I want between the two larger buildings.  I’ve built the kit as supplied, other than one minor modification: shortening the side entrance I’ve fitted to the small store, as it would otherwise partially obscure the ground floor window in this position.

I’ll admit to feeling nervous about further work on these buildings, especially as this kit is now discontinued, but there are three commonly recognised areas where the kits are often improved on RMweb (see Metcalfe Yard by sb67 for a current example of what can be done with this kit:  Metcalfe Yard)

1. Rainwater goods (gutters and drainpipes) are needed but not included.  These shouldn’t be too difficult but I’d like to find a “no-cost” way to do this that I’m happy with (as I have several other kits to complete in this way now too).

2. The roofs used on Metcalfe Kits are very uniform and quite obvious on my model.  They’re not as visible on all models – I made a couple of the low-relief department stores (below - not for this layout), and the dormer windows and roof detail largely hide those roof tiles.

3.The colouring on the brewery buildings is nice and bright, but not very realistic, particularly for industrial buildings in the steam-era.  I’ve never tried weathering before, but it is one of the areas where the hobby has progressed hugely in recent years (while I wasn’t really paying attention).  I’ll probably try out some test-test pieces before risking these models.

Card kits can be realistic – the real picture below is from Altrincham, and I think it compares well with the Metcalfe Department Store, though I suspect the buildings haven’t always been this clean!

Finally, even on a Billy Bookcase layout, I’ve space to play with at the right hand end of the model…one idea I'm tempted by is a small wharf behind the tracks (Marmalade Wharf by Luke the Trainspotter is an example in this Forum that shows there is room for such a feature)

What I really ought to do is build some baseboards, now I'm satisfied this Test piece will work.

1 hour ago, Ian Holmes said:

Lest anyone thinks I’m bluffing with my plans for a 1:305 scale model of the Festiniog Railway. Here’s a proof of concept study of the double Fairlie “Little Wonder” made from sections of styrene rod and strip. I think this is do-able.

"Little Wonder" indeed - amazing!