Keith Addenbrooke

Very true - the interchange between nations is one of the appeals of Continental modelling: plenty of legitimate variety on through Services, certainly in the period I'm interested in. At the moment my small collection of Austrian, Swiss and German H0 rolling stock is all 'in waiting' though, Keith.

Thanks @nathan70000 - my Geep is an Atlas (Classic range - certainly comparable to a Proto 2000 in my view). While the track plan is simple, I like touches you’ve included such as the team track spur going behind the Depot, and the railings between the double tracks at the Station, as well as the autumnal trees. All good points in my view, Keith.

Nicely done @nathan70000. Can I ask how big your layout is? I’ve also been drawn towards the railroads of Maine, although in my case initially because of the Maine 2’ narrow gauge lines, Keith. (The front handrail is a loose detail to fit in the box, it’s not missing)

The most expensive coach I’ve ever bought - and maybe the most expensive I ever will…? I factored in the cost of two packs of Preiser figures as they came already fitted, and I personally think Panorama coaches look very empty without passengers. Nothing unusual about the model (a second hand Roco from a very reputable supplier), it’s just that I don’t have a Swiss layout. After dabbling with Bemo H0m (FO) last year was still missing having Panorama coaches - now sorted 😀, Keith.

Additional vertical bracing (including the “Cross” detail) has been added using coffee stirrers. The horizontal and corner bracing and spacers come with the kit, including the rather substantial roof beam (1/4” sq. section). Have a good weekend, Keith.

I’ve made more detailed notes than usual in case they’re of any use to anyone trying this more traditional type of kit for the first time, as this is a “getting started” thread - hope that’s OK. Compared to more modern kits, the instructions are far more text based than pictorial, so careful reading is important: I also spent quite while sorting out the bags of bits - as mentioned previously parts are unnumbered as they come: Measurements are also in 32nds or even 64ths of inches, meaning more double checking: I decided to put together the small bell tower first as a test. The first piece I tried to cut did split. To avoid splitting them all I tried holding each piece against my steel rule before cutting - this worked and no more pieces split: Two coats of acrylic white paint covered the relevant window frames quite nicely: The corner posts provide quite good bracing: (Looking closely at the photo, I think I glued the bottom left corner piece in the wrong way round - too late to change now). I’m keeping all the pieces I cut off in a separate bag just in case I need any replacements for spare or repair: Some pieces need chamfering - helpfully the roof has a 45° angle making it much easier to line up pieces for cutting: Time to leave the glue to set: I’ve painted the front door - picking out the door handle in black and door knob in steel was a bit fiddly, but worth it I hope: All good so far I think, Keith.

I had a good chat with the guys from White Rose model works at a recent exhibition - they had some boards on show and I agree they looked very good. The guys seemed to know their stuff too. As for the launch of Chapter 2 - I’m just happy to be here, and looking forwards to the ride. Hope that’s Ok, Keith.

Looks like a really nice layout - with a lovely backstory too. Do let us see more - and a track plan (or overall shot) with dimensions could be useful if that’d be OK. Look forwards to seeing more, Keith.

Thanks @JZ - really helpful. Looks like it may be a better idea to brace the walls before painting - although I think the walls are balsa (which I understand sucks up paint), the braces in the unopened packet look like basswood to me: The roll incidentally is the roof shingles - exactly the type referred to in the article you linked on painting them, thank you. I’d not realised Campbell Scale Models had still been trading, so good to know they lasted as long as they did, Keith.

Moving back to HOn30, the other building kit in my designated Narrow Gauge stash is a wooden kit for a small Lutheran Church made by Campbell Scale Models (an American company I remember being mentioned back in the day). This will take a lot longer to complete, being more like a traditional ‘craftsman’ kit: I originally bought this kit for use with my Standard Gauge HO. I ended up with too many buildings for any layout I might try, so it made sense to pass this on to the CAL in case I decide to fill in the hole in the baseboard with scenery at some point. I do rather like the way the stained glass windows have been done, using celluloid film. Very clever: First task is to sort out the pieces, which aren’t numbered or anything like that: The scribed balsa wood sides are quite delicate - this one came out of the packet needing repair: Once I’d worked out which piece of the walls was which, the first bit of modelling was to cut out the arched windows, which come scribed on the front only: Just doing this took me an hour. The two thin pieces (bottom left) split and needed gluing. The bell tower is still to do: Next step will be to paint these pieces. The instructions say to paint the inside of the walls as well, to help reflect light through the stained glass windows - I think painting both sides may be wise anyway to reduce warping. I expect this build to take me into June, but will give me something different and in keeping with the ‘mood’ of the CAL I think. have fun, Keith.

The smaller points and a long crossing also seem to be available now too, Keith.

With over 100 individual brick ‘tiles’ to attach, it seemed wise not to attempt them in one go, so. I gave myself a breather when I was half way through: Technique for fastening them was quite simple: I cut the pieces from their sheet two or three at a time, put a small dab of glue onto some scrap material and then, holding a piece in tweezers, wiped a small amount of glue across the plain back with a sewing pin before putting it in place. Seemed to work: I can’t see any stray glue globs, and no pieces have fallen off! Trickiest bit turned out to be adding extra framing and some thin 1mm brick strips to the sides of the wider part of the building - the instructions said to do this after the walls were finished; with hindsight it might have been easier earlier on: With six thin strips to add, I managed to get five on OK, but the one that I mashed up is the most visible: I took solace from the condition of the brickwork outside my own front door and pressed on to finish: As a timber-framed brick and tile building, I personally think it looks a bit more north German than Austrian (Schönberg is in the former GDR, though I don’t think this is a prototype model…?). It’s definitely made to 1:87 scale (not a hybrid 1:100 scale), although as a modern laser cut building also sold for Standard Gauge use I was confident it would be: I also think it scales well against my other recent buildings: A neat little project build that I’d be more than happy to use on an H0e layout. Have a good week, Keith.

I mentioned in my last post I’d ordered the styrene sheets (Evergreen) I need to build a trio of scratch-aid HOn30 boxcar kits I’ve had for over a year. Needless to say, I stocked up with other bits and pieces too. This is my narrow gauge stash now: While I’d planned to pause my builds and move to layout planning (post above), the weather remains unconvincing for baseboard building, so I’ve made a start on the HOe Faller cut Schönberg station I spotted on offer. My only previous experience with a laser cut kit was the platform I made at the start of the year (see page 9), so this is a beginner’s build: The main challenge looks to be fitting the individual brick sections to the framed walls - it’s why this small kit has over 100 parts! I like the colours the kit comes in, so the only weathering I’ve done is gently rubbing pencil over the roof to break up the uniformity and add some ‘dirt’. As it is, the left side of each roof section (viewed as below) came out of the manufacturing process a bit darker than the right side, so I may weather the right hand piece a bit more before fitting: Assembly is quite straightforward - I have some Noch laser cut kit glue left over which I’m using: Note: although I gave myself a new knife blade and some clean sandpaper before I started this kit, I forgot to clean my modelling tweezers, hence the mark on the lower step in the photo above. Another lesson learned! The inner shell is thick card, as I’d expect, but I think these fine wooden frames are especially well done by Faller: As with other European kits I’ve made, this small model also comes with paper inserts to cover the windows and stop light bleed. I had to trim this one to line up the window covers properly after dry fitting test showed a problem: I should have painted the top layer of the platform after all, as it does look too much like a piece of regular card. I went for a darker colour than usual as this seemed in keeping with the model: You can see the ‘pips’ where I cut the wooden frames from the sheet they came on, but I had to be careful when sanding not to take off too much and remove the wood stain too. I also caught the bottom of the door when painting the platform, which is the predictable consequence of painting it after assembly. This will now be left to dry. The only other bit I’ve pre-assembled is the chimney - which is a bit more fiddly: The cruel close-up isn’t too bad though (no big glue marks). This particular kit is not currently in the Faller catalogue (except in N gauge), but seems ideal as a generic narrow gauge haltepunkt building that I hope to complete in just a few days. Have fun, Keith.

Two interesting pictures, thank you @Wendell1976: The five unit head end lash-up may appear to be more power than the train might need (it’s not that long by modern standards), but I note from the caption that two of the units are helpers to assist with downhill braking - given the 3% grade noted by Wendell that makes sense. And what struck me with this one was how clean all the locos are! Interesting modellers’ note. Thanks as always, Keith.

Thank you @Stefan88 - very informative and some good pictures to help too. My next step is to see if I can plan a simple scenic layout for the space I have, so I can see some trains run. Keith.

Thank you @Stefan88, some useful information. I appreciate the confirmation that the red / black livery was introduced quickly from 1987 - it fits with my observations so it is helpful to know they’re correct. For anyone who may be interested (particularly in the UK), I notice Gaugemaster have just taken into stock three different Roco coach packs with both orange and red / black HO coaches for the ÖBB EC60 Maria Theresia (1989), listed as follows: Roco 74043 Set 1: red / black Bmz, orange Bmz and orange BDmsz (£180) Roco 74044 Set 2: orange Amz, orange Bmz and red / black dining coach WRmz (£180) Roco 74045 Set 3: red / black Amz and orange Bmz (£120) I don’t need any more, but nice to see they’ve been released. Have a good weekend, Keith. Edit (10th May 2023): The following YouTube video in German is an unboxing of the 74043 set: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXOI4iZPYRg&t=29s

Over the past couple of months I’ve been playing with the idea of a European Narrow Gauge / Standard Gauge interchange station, and having created a layout space I’ve been able to do some proof of concept testing. This taught me a number of points I thought might be worth sharing here. My obvious concern is that adding larger, standard gauge trains will destroy the illusion of distance it’s possible to create with a narrow gauge layout in the same scale: (My apologies for the poor photo - it was actually a very bright day when I took this, which my iPad camera doesn’t like). First task was to take down those baseboards, which are too narrow for a standard gauge circuit. First learning point: even with just two unscenicked boards to move, the ‘faff’ involved showed me I don’t want to be doing this too often - so the alternative idea of separate Narrow Gauge and Standard Gauge layouts I can swap in and out when the mood takes me is not such a great idea - it is worth looking into the idea of a combined layout. I then set up the IKEA tables I have with a pair of simple test circuits - one using 4th radius N-Gauge Setrack for the H0e circuit, and one with 2nd radius OO / HO track for standard gauge trains (I’d want a wider SG radius, but 3rd rad. overhangs the edges of the tables): Second learning point: it looked better when trains were going in opposite directions - although they obviously met more often, each train appeared to be making its own way in the world. When they were going in the same direction, the Narrow Gauge train got lapped too often, and that was what destroyed the illusion, so minimise parallel track in design. Third learning point: (this only applied to the Standard Gauge train) while we usually avoid straight track in layout design, the close couplers I have on these European Standard Gauge coaches work really well - the coaches close up really effectively on straight track, so there is a case for some straight track here: Fourth Learning Point: I think a six coach Narrow Gauge train looks to be a decent length, even with five four-wheelers. But I also wanted to do some analysis of Standard Gauge trains. I think four coaches are OK for a regional train, but if I can squeeze in just one more in my restricted space and get a five coach train then (to me at least) it starts to look more like a model version of a (secondary) mainline train: I think that looks quite different. Fifth Learning Point: Something was still nagging at me, and I finally worked it out. As a fan of Narrow Gauge modelling and an enthusiastic supporter of standard gauge modelling in smaller scales (TT:120, N and Z), full-size standard gauge American or European HO trains are as big as my own collection goes. Trains have weight and presence. This is not news. But it took me a while to realise I need to be looking at them close up to get the benefit of the extra detail, and to mitigate the effect of the more dramatically shortened trains. My tables were too low. More testing: (I kept the carriage in its box just in case). Much as I enjoy close-up viewing of Narrow Gauge trains, with H0e / HOn30 I also find the ‘helicopter view’ from above helps me accept them as small scale models. Switch to standard gauge trains and the opposite applies - a helicopter view (as with the test circuits) just reveals the toy train size of my space. Of course, others will have different thoughts (and I am only talking about my own home layout - not an exhibition offering). As I think about developing this idea however, it’s helped me see the way I apply design criteria does vary between Narrow Gauge and Standard Gauge modelling in the same scale. It probably means there may be a bit of a gap now in my Narrow Gauge ramblings while I put on my design hat, although I have also ordered the styrene I need for the trio of HOn30 freight car kits I still have to build (Page 6, Nov 27th 2021 post). Those freight cars are the final item on my ‘getting started in Narrow Gauge’ project list. Until then, have fun, Keith.

Episode 4 (part II) - The Leaky Bucket List and the Rule of Two In the first part of this double episode, I described the number of layout projects I’ve tried to start over the past couple of years as being like having a Leaky Bucket List. Each time I thought I was getting somewhere something changed, so I started again with a new idea. I want to break this cycle now I have a layout space I can use for longer, so I’m using this episode of my blog to review my options. I’ve already reviewed ideas for a layout following either British or North American outline, and I do have a future project for a TT:120 GWR Branch Line in mind. For North American modelling, I have plenty of HO to play with but less space than I’d like. I have a freelance narrow gauge mini-layout with an American flavour, but applying my Rule of Two tells me I’m not wanting to develop this further. The Rule of Two is my home made guide to interest in a project - while I own just one locomotive I’m actively exploring an idea, but when I buy a second I could start to run a small railway. More than two means I’m thinking “this is it!” Stopping at two means I’ve paused. I have two HOn30 locomotives (adapted 009 kit-built models) and two HO diesels (plus an old one awaiting repair). I don’t currently plan to buy any more of either. I don’t yet have any TT:120 rolling stock, but that’s OK as it’s a long-term idea anyway. What about Continental modelling? I’m interested in German, Swiss and Austrian railways and model railways, and spend hours watching videos of them online (prototype and model). My entry point was through Narrow Gauge, so this time I’ll start there: Project B3.1 - Continental Narrow Gauge When I reawakened my interest in Narrow Gauge modelling I was keen to explore American HOn30. With little available commercially to get me started I turned to Austrian H0e, as it also runs on 9mm track. I’d dabbled in H0e a decade or so ago, so my choice of locomotive was easy: a Liliput O&K MV8 0-4-0 diesel - the type I had before. Beginning with a Peco Setrack 009 Starter Set, I dived in: I’m still keen on H0e, and while various trades in and out mean I don’t have a large collection of rolling stock, I do like what I have: All rolling stock is second hand, and I have the budget for a third loco if I see one I want. As the photo shows, I also have some of the Peco ‘mainline’ narrow gauge track and points suitable for the kind of Austrian outline 760mm gauge trains I have. I initially looked at a layout inspired by the Zillertalbahn, but at the time found I got enough enjoyment doing the research and so didn’t progress with my layout plans. This taught me an important lesson: while I’d like a layout that doesn’t stretch the boundaries of plausibility too far, and follows a recognisable theme / prototype, I’m not wanting to commit myself to strict prototype modelling - impressive though it always is. Almost by accident I found myself looking at Swiss metre gauge railways, and in particular the network of routes run by the Rhätische Bahn (RhB), the Furka-Oberalp (FO) and the Brig-Visp-Zermatt (BVZ). A year ago I was fully intending to build a small 1990s FO layout in HOm (12mm gauge). I built up a decent collection of very good Bemo models (including, note, four locomotives). A new squeeze on space however placed a limit on my ambitions, as is partly shown by this photo - taken when I had just two locos: both Furka-Oberalp Tunnel Motors (the complete class of two, as it happens. They were not actually used with Panorama coaches): The problem is this - to run proper length trains I needed space for four or five coaches, not three (as here). I’d seen a very good exhibition layout running shortened trains. It was excellent in many ways - and much better than I could ever do - but after having watched a lot of prototype videos online I decided that short trains weren’t something I wanted to model in this way. On top of this, I wouldn’t have space for my HOn30 layout as well (seen propped up in the background). I wouldn’t be able to easily run my H0e or HOn30 stock. I decided that was my priority. It meant parting with my H0m, which was a difficult decision I’ve often thought about reversing. As it stands, a project including H0e would be very attractive, while a return to H0m now looks increasingly unlikely. Project B3.2 - Continental Standard Gauge When I was growing up, I saw Continental Standard Gauge railway modelling as the epitome of the hobby - but well out of reach for me. Having experimented with H0m, I was happy to try European TT - part of my response to the launch of TT:120 for the UK. I liked the feel of 12mm gauge track and bought some building kits and a bit of modern Tillig stock (incl. two locomotives). However, I couldn’t find a plentiful supply of second hand coaches for the ideas I had, and when I needed to cut back on the projects I was trying to start I scaled back my ambitions here. I still have the kits and am slowly working on a diorama as part of getting used to the scale: To solve the problem of also wanting to run 9mm gauge H0e trains on occasion, I’ve looked at late 1960s German N-Scale. When no-one is looking I could run any 9mm gauge train after all (minimum radius curves wouldn’t be a problem, as I set myself a 4th rad. limit). I can still work with the ‘chunky’ Arnold-style couplings, and I think they don’t look too obtrusive on close coupled European coaches. The quality I remember means that ‘retro N-Scale’ stock is now affordable. I almost got to three locos, but the third one I bought (a BR Class 50 with Wannentender) turned out to be faulty. As I want to be run North American stock as well, and had concerns about their couplings, I didn’t pursue N-Scale. Oddly perhaps, I remain fascinated by Z-Scale. I think I’m less concerned about any detail I can’t see because I’m not trying to look for it! Z-Scale brings a whole host of technical challenges, but I’m impressed with the models and layouts I’ve seen: (My photo - comparator above is 1:160 N-Gauge. The freelance Z-Scale livery is from a Christmas set) While it’s unlikely I’d start a Z-Scale layout project, I may still have a dabble with some building kits to see how I get on. There’s certainly room for something scenic, and while the couplers look huge, they fold together quite nicely and don’t look too bad (to me). This just leaves HO to consider. I hadn’t planned to buy into European HO, until I saw this Roco HO ÖBB Taurus (c. 2000 - 2005) on sale: I knew from my N-Scale and H0e adventures just how good Roco products are, and this has not disappointed. Before ordering it, I tried to persuade myself numerous times I didn’t need it, but it resisted all attempts to ignore it. It has been followed by two more locomotives (yes, I have three), plus fourteen assorted coaches and a few wagons. I’ve also been building a large 400 piece station kit (pictured in a previous blog post). Another important lesson: at this stage I’m following some helpful advice I was given when starting out in a new scale. I’m buying items I like even if they are more loosely associated than I’d ideally want. I can then refine my collection later, as my ideas crystallise. In my narrow gauge thread here on RMweb I’ve considered an idea for a Narrow Gauge / Standard Gauge interchange, inspired by Zell am See where the Pinzgauer Lokalbahn meets the ÖBB. Mainline trains see a variety of Swiss, Austrian and German rolling stock, so it ticks that box. The catch is the space needed - a full length European coach is 26.4m long, which is 303mm in H0. Even a five coach train needs 175cm (69”). Platforms can be lower, making it easier for them to be curved (the overhang / gap is less obvious). As with American outline, I’m well equipped to start a project in H0, and could incorporate both H0 Standard Gauge and H0e, but the space constraint I have limits my layout design options. I want a continuous run, but not just a tail-chaser! Conclusion - How to Not Build a Model Railway That final point sums up my dilemma. At the end of this first series of posts, I hope I’ve explained my desire to ‘break my duck’ and build a scenic model railway larger than my current HOn30 mini-layout. I’ve described the kind of operating pattern I like - why a continuous run is essential - and noted that building kits (esp. of structures) is the practical part of the hobby I most enjoy. Narrow Gauge obviously works for me. For standard gauge, HO is the scale I feel gives the best combination of affordable product availability and ease of modelling, but a smaller scale would make a layout easier. On the other hand, I find some aspects of detailed N Scale modelling / operating too small for my eyesight (so the same would presumably apply with Z). You can see why I’m an advocate of TT, but product availability is an issue with my preferred prototypes. How I might resolve this and develop a layout plan I’ll stick to will provide the material for my next series of posts. At that point I’ll be starting to build a model railway. Until then, have fun, Keith.

When I opened up the outhouse to begin baseboard work after the winter break, I realised I’d just piled up everything and left it last time I packed away. I also discovered I’d never actually fastened the tops to the L-Girder frame I was making. With forecast rain not materialising, this afternoon I remedied that oversight, screwed down the baseboard tops and tidied up: Looking through the door, behind some cork sheets along the back wall we have (from right to left), the final pieces of my old 12mm ply baseboard tops, some 9mm MDF packing sheets I was given (they held a tall mirror in place - see page 5), the remnants of last year’s 9mm ply baseboard tops not needed for the L-frame boards, a bag of sand (used as weight), my bag of ballast, and finally some thinner MDF pieces left by a previous resident that I cut up and use for odd bits and pieces, including plotting curves for track laying. I also have a box (not shown) of offcuts of 44mm x 18mm softwood framing - in other words: all the bits I may never use but are too big to throw out! The drawers hold spare tubs of scenic scatter as the cellar is too damp. While this outhouse has limitations as a workshop, it’s still very useful - as long as I don’t let it get too cluttered up. After taking the photo, I took the completed pair of L-girder baseboards inside and set up them up in the spare room, just so I could get a feel for what it’s like having baseboards in the room. I obviously wouldn’t recommend building baseboards just for this test, but as I had them it made sense to use them. It may not look much, but it’s a sign I’m still more of a beginner that even after two years this is the first time I’ve got as far as running a test train across bespoke boards like these (my CAL mini-layout just sits on one tabletop, so effectively takes up no floor space of its own). Edit: the total baseboard weighs 11.0kg (excl. joining bolts), being 5.3kg for the nearer piece and 5.7kg for the farther one with the wider station board. Heavier than the lightweight baseboard kits available commercially but lighter than a solid top with 12mm ply would be. Each half is 1.0m long and 0.8m wide. Hope that helps, Keith. In terms of modelling, I’m currently working on some American HO Standard Gauge kits - there are parts from three different kits in this photos from this morning: Compared to typical Narrow Gauge buildings, the painting challenge comes from the sheer size of the components, so I have resorted to spray painting some bits. While it’s not difficult, I could do with some more practice to get better results - the learning point for me is that spray painting happens so quickly I should probably have done some dry passes first: (Spray painting is done in the garden, standing upwind). Have a good weekend, Keith.

Note: This final instalment of my Introduction and Background has been split into two episodes, to keep the suspense up (???) a little longer. Some content has been discussed in other RMweb Forums / threads: Episode 4 - The Leaky Bucket List and the Rule of Two In this double episode I’m looking at possible project options, to draw this first series of posts to a close. I don’t have a permanent modelling space, but I do have use of a room that has become spare, with the proviso that I can clear it out when the house is full (once or twice a year). I need to build a removable layout, though it doesn’t need the full flexibility of an exhibition layout. So let’s go… Project A - Workbench The first piece of advice I often share with folk wanting to build their first layout is to start modelling. Make a kit or a small diorama while planning the dream layout. Build some experience. It’s something I wish I’d known years ago, and is something I do now. So I’ve learnt that the first thing I must have is a workbench, not a baseboard. This is the space (the 31.5” arrow bottom right is the door): …and this is the easiest way to fit in a workbench by the window and a layout - the baseboard can cantilever over the bed (which is not moveable). A layout space of 9’ x 4’4” isn’t huge, particularly for a continuous run layout, but is more than I’ve had to play with before: The IKEA Kallax storage unit is not mine and access is not required. The sink is useful, but could be blocked off (or reached from the operating well). Other arrangements can be considered, but permanent shelves / wall fixings are not an option (several reasons). Project B - Layout Options (the Leaky Bucket List and the Rule of Two) A second piece of advice is to look more closely at prototype railways (important, as my primary influences were other model railways). Once I stepped back from the idea of an OO Gauge GWR Branch Line, I had complete freedom to explore any prototype in any scale or gauge. Through 2021 and 2022 I had great fun trying new things. Each time I thought I’d cracked it something changed: my bucket list of layout ideas leaks! The gift of this space means I can now settle down. So I’ll tackle my possible projects list in prototype order. One final thing before I start - what is my Rule of Two? It refers to how many locomotives I have for a potential project, and is something I’ve established to show my level of interest in an idea: while I have one locomotive an idea can be classed as a novelty, but buying a second one means I have a relief engine as insurance against loco failure / maintenance. From this point on it can start to feel like I’m running a small railway. So, what are my options: Project B1.1 - British Outline Standard Gauge In my case this would still mean a GWR Branch Line. Other than a couple of items of sentimental value, I’ve finished selling off my OO Gauge collection, and only have these incomplete Ratio kits for a country station (Castle Cary) and platform awning (Generic): I started it in 2020. Close up, I was making a decent job of it until I left some trademark glue marks on the awning glazing, something I’d now feel confident I could fix. But with nothing else in my stash, I can’t see me returning to British OO Gauge for a layout. Until Peco announced their TT:120 range I wasn’t sure I’d return to British outline modelling at all, but I was taken by their range of kits and have bought a set (I also have more Flextrack in storage, not shown): My plan is for this to be a future project, once suitable rolling stock is available, so it’s not the layout I want to build now. With TT:120 now an option, I can’t see me going back to British outline N Gauge. Project B1.2 - British Outline Narrow Gauge As a Member of the 009 Society, I’ve seen the delightful models now being produced by Peco, Heljan, Kato and (especially) Bachmann close up and running. With the promise of more to come, r-t-r 009 is becoming an established commercial option. While I’ve modified some 009 items for my American HOn30 layout however, I’m not tempted to build a British Outline Narrow Gauge layout at present. Project B2.1 - American Outline Standard Gauge The American influence on my modelling is clear. With my Dad still modelling in American HO, it’s a natural option for me to consider, and I made a fresh start around the turn of the year. I have some building kits ready and waiting: And a selection of pre-painted freight car kits to build too: A couple of diesel locomotives (plus one awaiting repair) and a total of around 40 freight cars (including these kits and some needing new couplers) means I have all I need for a c.1970 freight based layout. What’s the catch? American HO Scale needs space - I’ve looked at small switching layouts, and while I enjoy watching them, have never quite persuaded myself to follow through on the layouts I’ve designed to actually build one. I’d like to run trains at least 15 cars long, but with the four car train in my header photo measuring 44” my space and my ambitions don’t meet. I’m going to keep American outline modelling, but will it be this first layout? Not sure at the moment. I have looked at North American N-Scale. This KATO ‘Gevo’ was the smoothest and most impressive locomotive I’ve ever owned: (I like lights - this is DC too). For test running it was superlative, but I found I could no longer read some of the detail on freight cars, and couldn’t properly see the couplings (far right in the photo below): Not a problem on an unscenicked test circuit, but I think I’d find it too fiddly / frustrating when anything broke / fell off on a layout, so I went back to HO. I didn’t buy a second locomotive. American TT (also 1:120 or 1/10th of an inch scale) is impressive but has little commercial support, and modellers also seem to prefer the same N-Scale couplings. A variant of these is used for North American Z-Scale, so I think HO is the smallest viable scale for me. One advantage of North American modelling worth noting before moving on: depending on the choice of prototype, it’s possible to dispense with station platforms (certainly high level ones). This can save a lot of space on a model layout, something I’ve learned over many years while trying to convert American plans into impossible British outline layouts! Project B2.2 - American Outline Narrow Gauge One of my favourite all-time magazine articles was in the November 1981 issue of Model Railroader magazine. Modeller Bob Hayden was designing a new basement-sized freelance 1940s HOn2 1/2 (now called HOn30) Carabasset and Dead River Railway. It was my inspiration for returning to Narrow Gauge modelling in early 2021. My modelling space at the time had moved up into our attic room, and I didn’t fancy carrying large Standard Gauge stock boxes (and buildings) up and down steep stairs when visitors needed the room. But HOn30 hasn’t really taken off. On30 became popular when Bachmann introduced a range, and every On30 layout I’ve seen is wonderful. But with limited space I’m not sure I’d want to move up to O-Scale, and with the Bachmann range now rarely seen on sale, a more realistic option would be to extend my existing HOn30 CAL. I could do this of course, but with just a few freight car scratch-aid kits left to build I’ve found I’m content with what I have. I have the two locos I’m happy with, and am not planning a bigger layout. …to be continued. In the next and final part of this blog post, I’ll look at the Continental European prototypes and models I’m interested in, then draw my conclusions for this section of my journey towards a model railway layout. Until next time, thank you for your patience, Keith.

Thanks @swisspeat - your end result looks really good. I just happen to have a tube of that UHU that came with a Noch Platform kit as well, so I have a choice now: watered down PVA (interior) or the UHU as per your demonstration. Good stuff, Keith.

It appears Hattons listed a couple of hundred packs of HO scale figures on the pre-owned webpage today, just in case it is of interest, Keith,

Thank you - that’s helpful. I have another build on my workbench at the moment, but when I get round to it, this will be very useful. Fortunately, I have some spares to experiment with too, Keith.

That is exactly what I was just thinking about - well remembered, Keith.

Noting that the centrepiece of any U.S. ideas I have is the Walthers Concrete Grain Elevator kit (933-3022) it makes sense to have this as my next build: it will help me visualise my possible layout space better than 2-D drawings, added to which I have more room for building big kits at the moment as I’ve not yet made any baseboards for my current space. So, here goes: Perhaps best described as large for a kit, while admittedly small in prototype terms. Should be fun to tackle. First step is to paint the parts on their sprues. Blue is recommended for some bits. Keith.