Keith Addenbrooke

Day 6 Step 3 (Part I) - And it was all yellow While the packing card I have cuts nicely, I was a bit concerned as to how it would take paint, as it’s not sold as modelling card, so did a small test: Top to bottom on the left: the card I’m using for the walls, the shiny side of a cereal packet, and the dull side of a cereal packet. All are painted with identical yellow paint (two coats). I think this confirms my suspicions, so I’ve marked out an outer skin of card pieces using a Christmas Biscuits box, similar to the dull side of the cereal packet: that seems to work best for a ‘painted wood’ finish. The good news is that none of my painted samples have curled when painted - and the top piece (the ‘wall card’) has been glued to double thickness too without trouble. That’ll be all for this weekend. Take care and stay safe, Keith.

Very nice. Actually having the layout gives you the chance to try things out and see what looks ‘right’ to you as you work on the layout. At first glance (I just happen to be online before lunch at the moment and saw this as it was posted), I wonder if I might share a couple of thoughts: 1. Perhaps a key decision is whether you want to model a ‘working line’ or a ‘heritage line’ ? * I’d expect the former to have more goods / freight traffic, but the latter might see more, longer passenger trains and need a bigger car park. 2. For a ‘working line’ I think the river / dock siding looks great, but I’d be tempted to swap the goods yard to the right, and have the carriage siding / engine shed on the left. Just a thought, Keith. __________ (* heritage lines are of course a type of working line, and full credit to the volunteers and staff who work very hard on them, I just wasn’t sure how to phrase the distinction: I hope it’s clear what I mean).

Fair point, and it does rather look like I’d bump my head every time I sat on (or got up from) the sofa. I think I’d still be inclined to go for a matching colour scheme - with a light colour scheme, based on experience that makes rooms look / feel larger with lighter colours than darker ones. Looks like a very nice layout in the pictures, incidentally.

Day 5 Step 2 (Part III) - Visiting the bay Slight change of plan as I had more time today. The bay window is the main reason for scratchbuilding the depot: Walthers do a fairly generic Union Pacific Depot kit with a square bay, and a very generic small country depot with a high pitched dormer roof, neither of which are distinctively Santa Fe. So I’ve had a first go at cutting out the bay today after all, as I don’t know if the thicker card I have will work here (it came as box inserts in some packaging): I’m not planning to make the bay double thickness, and if it doesn’t work I can try a folded, thinner card instead. To get the calculations right the trick seemed to be to start with a plan view, even though I don’t need one to cut to. The diagonal roof profile that looks to fall short of the 25mm measurement shown is not a mistake - that’s the measurement for the overhanging dormer roof when I make it. One thing I’ve not yet sourced is some good plastic packaging to use for windows (I’m committed to making it from rubbish). In one sense that’s a good thing - it means far less plastic packaging has been in evidence this Christmas.

I agree that would work with an American hat on, but maybe not a UK one - the key point being that I’d only expect to run one train a day on an HO Switching Shortline layout - the operating fun comes from the greater number of rail-served industries, not the variety of trains. For a UK outline layout, I’d suggest a four-track Fiddle Yard for a selection of trains (even if many branchlines didn’t see that many, it is how they are often modelled). I’m not an expert on European (or Japanese) modelling, but I think the idea of European TT has a lot going for it - the practical issue would be sourcing rolling stock under the new import rules, but it could be the ideal size. Narrow gauge would be another option with tighter curves, but doesn’t appear on the list of ideas mentioned for this possible project.

Another ‘trick’ perhaps might also be to paint the fascia of the layout / shelves the same colour as the walls of the room (particularly if they’re a lighter or pastel shade) to help them blend in?

Day 5 Step 2 (Part II) Saturday is my day off, so a chance to do a bit more this morning - not much progress to share, but natural light is better for the photos, so I’ll put this up now anyway: The key point is I’m cutting out the windows and doorways before cutting the walls to size, so I have a better surface to place my steel rule on. Cutting card dulls blades quickly, so I’ve put a new blade into the Stanley knife: fortunately I have some ‘in stock’. I’ve measured the front and back walls to be 1mm lower than the ends to allow for the protruding overhang of the roof (see original drawing). The tricky bits are next, especially the bay window, so there will be a gap before my next post. Although I’m making this up as I go along, I think I’ve managed to avoid any mistakes so far - other than making my coffee this morning with some out of date Colombian Ground that tasted rather like, well, Colombian ground.

Sharp frost but plenty of sunshine in Birkenhead this morning, by the way

Hi William, no need to apologise - it’s all part of the discussion. Whatever sized room you have it will always seem that bit too small of course, the doors / windows won’t quite be in the right place (especially for any published plans to fit), or there will be some other constraint - the ‘pillar’ intruding into the corner of your present home office, that featured in discussions last year, is a very good example of course. At the same time however, there are ingenious and workable solutions to every problem, as I found with my own planning last year: a potentially unworkable space ended up giving me several attractive layout options, thanks to help from the good people of this Forum. I think the point about alternatives for the door is still generally applicable - but this depends on what is outside the room. As you note in the post just above the diagrams, I’d agree with the argument that curves are the biggest challenge. What I’ve found most helpful is to see curves, not just as joins between the interesting / action bits on the straight sides, but rather as a key part of the design, if that makes sense (eg: extend the station onto a curve). The time spent juggling station throats and radii pays off. This would give a different solution to the block diagram just posted if space is even tighter.

Scale as a variable often comes up in discussions (not just for Coarse scale - it was discussed re: 1970s N Gauge elsewhere recently, which is where I began my railway modelling). One reason I’m sure scale sometimes varied was to fit models into standard sized packaging - certainly when it came to road vehicles*. I still have an early memory of being shocked by just how big a real tipper lorry actually was when one thundered past, being used to playing with my toy one that was the same length as a car. __________________ (* OK: toy cars)

I’m intrigued by the description of a room with measurements (9’ x 11’) where the door position is - at the same time - still a variable. I can’t work out if that means a new home and layout room has been chosen, so the measurements are fixed, or if it’s still to be decided, in which case we’re more at concept stage - where everything is up for grabs? Either way, my first thought is whether the door to said room can be hung outwards rather than inwards? I’ve seen that one change transform a small room into a decent layout space, but it may be something to discuss before moving? Just a thought, Keith.

Were the handles standard parts also used in other (more toylike) models as well? Could that be one explanation as to why they also appear in this one? Or were some models deliberately aimed at slightly a slightly older market - I guess if someone has a catalogue that might be the easiest way to find out. Either that or you’ve just got lucky

Day 4 Step 2 (Part I) - Mark your card Although I’m trying this build in card, it’s also a dry run for a planned styrene / plasticard version later. As such, I’m not trying to design parts with folding tabs (Metcalfe style), but am using double layers of thicker card for the main shape. I’ve had my first go at marking out some pieces this evening, starting with both ends (and a strengthening interior wall): I’ve decided to follow the Model Railroader plans which have the door on the side, to make it easier for me to transfer the measurements given. I can’t show the plans here due to copyright, but what I hope to learn by breaking the build down into simple steps anyone can follow is that this kind of basic scratchbuilding is something even I can have a go at.

I realise there’s a serious discussion about lighting going on, but if you’ll forgive me, I’m afraid I did starting looking for the fish when I saw this particular shot, sorry.

Operationally, I like the idea of using the middle track as the interchange - it gives a clear purpose to it, which can be a challenge on narrow layouts. The generous length spurs look great, and I’d guess are enjoyable to switch too.

Day 1 Step 1 - Board all ready: Just a reference photo for later as I don’t have an 8” Cakebox. I’ve cut my baseboard to be approx. 7 7/8” x 7 5/8: OK, I’ll admit I marked it out to be 7 7/8” sq. but made such a mess rushing one side that modeller’s pride had me recut it a bit smaller and straighter before taking the photo (hey, it was cold in the workshop)

Earlier in the thread I shared a photo of an 8" sq. 'Cakebox' diorama I put together for a BRM / RMweb competition in 2019. The competition is being re-run here: BRM/RMweb Cakebox Challenge and I'm going to use the opportunity to try scratchbuilding a board and frame Santa Fe Depot for this layout. There's an 8" sq. max. size for a Cakebox model, so I'll be trialling a smaller version than the #4 Standard Depot at Pauls Valley. I'll be using card (rather than styrene or plasticard) to see how I get on, as I've not tried scratchbuilding before. I've set up a separate build thread for the competition: Home Depot - a Lockdown Cakebox so progress will be shown there, hence this placeholder, as it is the next stage of this project too:

As an aside for anyone thinking about Cakebox modelling for the first time, the diorama I built for the first round of the 2019 competitions was the first time I’d ever tried putting together a scenic composition A late beginner : The experience and encouragement I received gave me the impetus I needed to try more ambitious builds, including an HO station big enough that my Cakebox would easily fit inside it Union Station - an HO Diorama: and this industrial building for my proposed US layout: So do have a go...

One of my projects is realising a lifelong interest in US Model Railroading. I'm assembling the pieces for a Santa Fe layout inspired by a Model Railroader Magazine Project from the 1980s: "The Washita & Santa Fe." There's isn't a readily available kit for the wooden board and frame Combination Depot and Freight House I need, so I'm going to have a first attempt at scratchbuilding one as a Cakebox Model. Hopefully it will look something like this: I have drawings from MR Jun '83 for the larger #4 Standard Santa Fe Depot used in the MR project, but even though that was compressed from 140' to 80' it is still over 11" long, so this will be a shorter, trial version. Plans for a smaller Depot were published in Model Railroader in Nov '79, along with an article about a lad who saved up the money from working on his family farm one Summer to buy that station when it closed (it was moved to the farm to house his model railroad). Those plans are just under 40' sq. (5.5" in HO Scale). It's not quite as I've drawn it here (there was no railside access door), but it gives me the key details I need to tackle. In terms of my rubbish* modelling, the post-Christmas tidy-up has provided some card, festive boxes, an offcut of 6mm cork sheet and some MDF. I realise these could all be classed as standard modelling materials, but other than the cork, which is from a roll of domestic insulation I bought for track underlay, all are being 'repurposed' for this project (there was a pile of MDF pieces in the house when we moved in). This is very much a test piece for me, but I'll see how I get on, Keith. ___________________________________________ (* if this idea works I hope that can be a noun, not an adjective)

Not recommended on a curve of that radius...

I’ve not seen the CJF write up of L-Girder benchwork, but for anyone wanting the reference who has back issues or archive access for Model Railroader, the Westcott version was explained in September 1963, pp 44 - 50. (I think an earlier description had appeared in a sister publication, Model Trains, early in 1961). It’s now widely used and described.

I won’t pretend to understand the electrics / electronics on display, but I think the photos also show the benefits and versatility of L-girder benchwork very well too, even in this small example (it just so happens that I was looking at Linn Westcott’s original Model Railroader article on this from the early 1960s over the weekend). Keith.

Thank you - I would never have thought of that: a really excellent idea.

Thank you for the encouraging feedback and additional photos - always good to see what can be done (something to aim for one day). I’m happy with how this has building turned out, it just now needs to be left for the glue and final bits of paint to dry thoroughly; signage is for another time: It is a bit more delicate than I’d anticipated, so I’ll need to be careful handling it as it is for a portable layout and will need to be removable, but no complaints at all with the kit. It just remains to wish everyone a peaceful and a safe New Year, Keith.

An idea attributed to @Northroader elsewhere on RMweb is to offer a “State of the Layouts” update for the turn of the year. I don’t have much to show yet, but with a few days off after Christmas work on my starter layout has begun. It’s too cold for woodworking in our outhouse, so I’m starting with a background building kit. The depth will determine the placement of the spur later, and it’s really nice to be building a kit with a clear purpose in mind: The kit is a Walthers’ Commissary which I’d bought to go with my Union Station model, but I’ll use as a general purpose warehouse / distribution depot here instead. The brickwork in the kit is quite a bright orange, which I’ve tried to dull with a thin wash of grey paints and white spirit. It’s not something I’ve tried before and I have been quite cautious, but I’m happy with the outcome. I also chose a dull colour for the rooftops and shutters for the same reason (actually left-over chocolate from GWR coach kits). I’ve cheated by not painting the window frames - an uneven finish could draw more attention to them and I’m not a great painter. With three storeys it is perhaps a bit tall for the kind of towns I’ve been looking at, but as I’ve managed to source a grain elevator kit for the other side of the layout I can go ahead with the rural town theme. I’ve ordered a slightly taller Feed Mill kit for the other background building on the depot / town side, which I hope will also make this look a bit smaller in comparison. I like the Walthers kits - the mouldings are good and they take paint well, and although the Feed Mill is quite a popular kit, I do like it (it has a bit more detail on it) and I think it will fit this theme. The one thing I don’t like so much with these kits is the absence of a back, but with moulded plastic I realise that would increase the price more in line with the 3-D buildings, for which my budget priority was the grain elevator. One big advantage of a rural theme is I’ll need fewer buildings - a depot is now the only major structure I’ve not sorted. I’d like a board and frame combination depot rather than a mission-style building, but the American Model Builder kits I’ve seen are (justifiably) quite expensive and very scarce, but there’s no rush. I’m going to have a lot of questions when it comes to sorting out some of the rolling stock I’ve got, but I’m thinking I may start a “Beginner’s Workbench” thread in the other part of this Forum for that when I’ve finished this building, Keith.