Monkeyhead

I've pre-ordered one, given I'll have plenty of time to save up for it, but I've made a mess of the email accounts - instead of it going to my existing Accurascale account, I've used a different email and it wants me to confirm my new account.  Is there a way to swap my order number to my existing account @McC or @Accurascale Fran?  Sorry for the inconvience!

Thanks for this, it’s answered my question nicely.  Have now got F2 set up on function b as latching and all is well.  Thanks again for the pointers

Thanks for the replies - I am running 3.20 so will have another look at the user manual, see if I can figure it out - I doubt I'll ever have more than 16 locos, so that should be fine.  And I'd missed the bit about the new software version, might be worth me picking up a USB module after all.

Hi, no, I didn't get the USB, and it is one of the early ones.  I thought about changing the buttons, but thought that would change them for everything - so I have a TTS sound class 20, where F2 and F3 play the horn, and then go off.  If I changed them, wouldn't I have the horn on all the time?

Or is the hypothesis that the buttons are only configured per loco?

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with a thing I'd like to learn to fix.  I've got an old Hornby 91 that I've upgraded to a CD motor, and wired it for DCC.  I also bought an Express Models lighting kit, which I've wired up and looks ok.

I'm using a v1 Sig-na Trak ACE controller, and have a programming track.

The decoder I fitted was one I had kicking around, and when I query it using the controller, it comes back as and ESU chip - cv7 shows 255, so I *think* its a LokPilot.  It's an 8 pin one.

The loco runs fine forward and back, but the issue I have are the lights functions.  On the Sig-na Track, I have a "lights" button, F1 (which is latched), then F2 which are straight on/off (plus loads of other F buttons after this).

What I see when I press the buttons is (in forward)  - [Lights] front white come on, stay on, nothing else.  [F1] rear reds come on, stay on, nothing else. [F2] front red come on then go off

In reverse [lights] rear white come on, stay on, nothing else.  [F1] rear reds come on, stay on, nothing else. [F2] front red come on then go off

So basically, I *could* run the engine ok forwards, using the [Lights] and [F1] button, but couldn't in reverse as the [F2] doesn't "latch"

What I think I should be doing is remapping the light functions to, for example [F4,5] where they could all operate independently , depending on the direction of the controller.

But I don't really know how to go about doing that with the equipment I have.

Hopefully someone can give me some guidance as I'm keen to improve my understanding of how this stuff works!

Ta

Hi all, just an update on this thread, over the weekend I finally managed to "finish" my test track, guided be the discussion above.  Things I changed:

I decided that I could forgo the second track, as I didn't really have room on my bit of board, and I'm not yet at the stage of modelling 009 anyway.

However, I did like the idea of future flexibility, so wired in a set of banana plug sockets as an AUX, which should allow me to wire in a different gauge in the future if needed.

The track set up isn't very clear from the picture, but it's basically a length of track with DCC Concepts rolling roads on, 3 either side of a central screw, held down with a length of thin aluminium.  I wanted to use perspex, but couldn't find a way of cutting a piece accurately enough.  The aluminium is well clear of the rolling road so hopefully no shorts.  I can loosen the screws to then move the rolling road pieces around for different wheel configs.

Need to do some labels for the switch box, and then it's just about complete.

It's not the neatest piece of work ever, and I doubt I'll ever find a job as a carpenter, but to say I had no idea how to do it in March when I started, I'm quite pleased with myself.  Thank you to all the people who contributed to the thread and helped me work it out.

 

Thank you John (and Grriff) - will take some time to work it through.  It's been a very enlightening thread, so thank you to all that have contributed 

Hey all, thank you for your continued input.  I've tried to follow it (like the idea about the banana plugs) and have revised my drawing based on some of the thoughts above.  It seems to make more sense to me, how does it seem to you?

Hi, thanks for the replies - sorry my diagram wasn't very clear.  Yes, there are 2 outputs from my DCC controller, 1 for running, 1 for programming.  I'd wondered whether I'd got the black wires completely wrong, but my hypothesis was that they could all be connected up together if the reds were controlled by the switches.  Glad I checked before starting!! Thank you for your collective assistance.  I shall study the diagram above carefully!

Hi there, hoping someone might be able to help me out with a bit of a project I'm planning.  I want to build a bit of a one board test/programming track, with a DC controller, a DCC/Programming controller and two tracks, one 009 and one 00.  What I'd like to be able to do is switch between the inputs and then the track.  So test a dc 009 loco, then programme a 00 loco.

I've done a rough diagram which I *think* works, but I'm struggling with the switch between the controllers.  What sort is it?  A 3PST one?  That doesn't seem right to me.  Can anyone give me any advice, or see any improvement/problems?

Thanks, Matt