PatriotClass

As requested, I added scale lines to the decal sheets, a vectorized SVG Version and an additional set for tender decoration. Maybe Fox Transfers is the right partner in GB to make a professional custom decal sheet.

Hi Guys, Sorry for so long not checking this thread. The many rivets on the bridges blow up the stl files over the limit of 10 MB, so I can't use the attachment feature. This time I try it with Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/22c34z9g97bwnp7udrwkz/120ton_bogie_trolley.zip?rlkey=ivgqzb6gmpsv4weoimkstda5o&dl=0 Please feel free to download!

Thank you for the interest. Yes, that's possible. Just the loco shell or also a tender? I'll contact you via PM.

Hello Guys I received some days ago messages from RMWeb members who are still remembering my printed LNWR bodies, Thank you for this! 😃 I posted this topic here two years ago. In the old thread all pictures are corrupted so I launch here a new thread. The Claughton bodies fit a Hornby Illustrious chassis. The front bogie has to be modified to fit between the cylinders depending on the curve radius you have on your layout - the only real challange building this Claughton :-) I can offer you a printed model or the stl file set, if you have a printer. The model is made to fit even small standard printers with 12 cm building volume. I include a picture how to position and support the model on the slicer software. Please make a choice, which combination you are interested in: The Standard The Caprotti The Rebuilt Caprotti with deflectors Tender choice is LNWR Standard or Oil Burner Prince of Wales - The Standard The Tichy Please note that these bodies are not plug and play. To make them fit you have to file or use a grinder. If you are interested, please send me a personal message. Below I attach a Claughton Class decal set to download. If you would like to have some custom numbering, please send a personal message! Have a fantastic day! ClaughtonClass_DecalSheet.svg ClaughtonClass_Tender.svg

This short film of 1911 just took my interest some years ago when I thought about modelling a Claughton. These pictures are stuffed with interesting prototype information. But the most exciting object is the rotating dumper. I have seen some US prototypes before on youtube and thought about the Walthers model, but I find, it looks more like a toy and produces a horrible noise. So I started thinking about how to get the Crewe dumper to model size. The key moment, when I decided to start this project, was an Arduino starter kit, I ordered for the summer holidays. To rotate the dumper and return it exactly to the starting point can be really easily solved using a stepper motor. Here the positive points of stepper motors: - No need for a reduction gear, because steppers have a good torque - No endstops. The working angle or rounds and speed can be programmed absolute exactly - In hi-res mode absolutely quiet. Listen to my video! The Arduino can control servos aswell. On this project I used two to lock down the wagon during dumping. The whole model is a two part 3D print: The revolving drum and the base. The conveyor in the background is printed and driven by a bigger NEMA stepper. The coal wagon is a 3D print on a Dapol-chassis. The unloading process starts with the engine pushing the wagon into the dumper. On the far end there is a bumper with a magnet inside, that catches the metal hook of the coupler. So the wagon is and stays exectly positioned. On my shunter, there is a Märklin DCC decoupler (This action I will show later, when the dumper is installed into the diorama). The dumping will be started by a push button: Like on the prototype the bars were lowered down on the wagon. The guy fastening the chains is simulated by two servos mounted under the track. After having locked down the wagon, the Arduino controller starts the stepper making 3800 steps that equals appx. 160°. The controller waits three seconds and brings back the wagon to its starting position. Then the servos release the bars and the engine can come back to grab the empty wagon. The rotating drum is sitting on and is driven by four gears. Just gravity was not enough to keep the drum sitting well on the gears, so I fixed two of these strong micro magnets under each of the two big rings and painted the surface with ferro-mgnetic paint. I never belived it will work, but this paint is really magnetic.^^ Compared to the prototype you might realize that my model looks a bit bigger. The small H0 scale Preiser guy in the front is not the only reason. The two servos had to be hidden under the track, so their size was the minimum factor for the radius of the drum. -> Watch it in motion on youtube.

Thanks for the interest. Below I have uploaded the STL files and a dxf-Export in case, anybody wants to modify the model. The Servo mount is made for these chinese mini hobby servos. LMS_Sockel.stl RedArm.stl YellArm.stl 1147782237_LatticeTriple.stl DogLeg.stl 1546055458_LMS_Junction1.dxf

Hello guys, I would like to populate my colliery with some workers. I am modelling the 1920 era. Does anybody know some ready to place figures like on the picture below?

So when e.g. the left arm is on, all points are cleared for the main line and if instead the right arm is on, the points are set for Birkenhead. If the train is e.g. sheduled for Birkenhead, the driver has to wait, until the right arm gets on. So this signals are not necessarely situated in direct proximity to the physical junction. Please excuse me for asking some questions that are maybe not really professional for a British railway enthusiast, but in Germany this type of junction signalling is completely uncommon. On the other hand just this is beneath many other things what's faszinating me about British Rails.

Hello guys, I am just studying British signaling to equip my layout correctly. Thanks to some nice websites I am getting slowly through it, but I am stuck with one type of signal that I saw on LNWR pictures several times. See the one linked below! I am meaning the one in the center. It's obviously a junction signal with two dolls and both arms on same height. So it should give rule for two tracks, equal speed. I learned that ahead should be a point that splits the line in two ways. But ahead of this signal, there are two tracks joining. What's the information for the driver when the left arm is on and what's when the right arm is on? Wouldn't it be enough to install just a one arm signal? I just linked the picture here, because it has copyright by the Transport Library.

Just catching the sun for drying. Here I made another one inspired by Mr Warburton's book. I wanted to try printing a lattice post and mount two arms on one post, The M2 screws at the arms are provisoric. The whole signal is one mould, exept the mechanics and arms and reaches up to 16.5 centimeters. I am just wondering if I should put in the arms colour filters or use a duo-LED that can display red and green by changing it's polarity. If anyone is interested in the STL files, feel free to write a message.

That's what I did and it works fine.

You're right! It's not a good compromise, indeed. That's possible to do so in the model, but I fear that the attatchment of the lamp may become to weak, when I give space for the strap. But I did it the lazy way: I applied a drop of super glue to fix the arm and the blinder to the shaft. When the glue has set, I removed the strap and, here it is! So I will keep the strap just as an assembly aid to fix arm and blinder exactly.

I used a three year old ELEGOO mars printer. So the print took 7 hours. I thickened just the hand rails and the safety ring at the top end of the ladder. These parts are printed in a diameter of 0,8 mm. I tried 0,6, on my Claughton handrails, but this won't bring satisfying results. To get here more prototype look, I suggest to knip off the resin handrail and replace it by brass. The arms have double the thickness of the prototype to give more stability, but I think, here it's possible to go thinner.

The Midland twin signal didn't made it to my modelling list, it took a direct shortcut to realisation. Many thanks once more to TheSignalEngineer for this inspiring picture. As soon as I am at home from my holidays, I will give it an airbrush and some weathering. Am I right that the colouring is as usual all over white? See a full description of the model, and a video here at the modelling section!

This summer I am experimenting with 3D printing 4 mm scale signals for my LMS layout. TheSignalEngineer posted a great prototype picture of a Midland twin signal here and I decided without any hasitation to use this for my second project. There are four positions on my layout, where I need a signal like this, so it makes really sense to build a reproduceble 3D model. Like most of you I used mini servos. One of them is a SG90 type from EBAY, the other is a similiar type from the Digikejis Servo Starter set. I can't recomend the Digikejis - it's very noisy and rough geared - but it works so far. The model consits of four moulds: The signal post, the arms, the servo mounting and a connection part (blue) that is for planting the signal. The control wires are 0,8 mm brass, but will look better in 0,6 mm or even less. I was not shure about printing this L-shaped hinges from resin, but they work well, although they hve to be thicker than brass. The two lanterns have 3mm openings in the bottom to fit there either a warm-white LED or a conventional lamp. I wanted to model the back-blinders aswell, so there is a non prototype connection to the arms... well, a compromise. I am controling the servos by an Arduino UNO. This 10 GBP controller can operate up to 12 servos, so using these SG90 servos (1,8 GBP) it's really a budget-friendly way to signal your layout. So let's take the model to paint shop... See it in motion on YouTube Thanks for all your information! Below I uploaded the STL files for anyone who is interested: MT_root.stl MT_ServoMount.stl MT_signalBody.stl MT_Arm.stl MT_L_connector.stl

What a beautyfull prototype picture, SignalEngineer! That one comes definitely on my modelling list. Great detail to see the mechanics too. May I ask, what's the purpose of this lid?

Great information. I just caught Mr Warburton's book on the web. So I can fit my mainline with some more modern round post upper quadrant signals and decorate the coal branch with some rusty lower quadrant LNWR types. Its also nice to see on this old picture, that lower quadrant signals due to their balance weight don't fall in "track free" position, even when the control wire breaks.

Hello Guys, I am just working on a 3D print of LMS home signal semaphores (00 gauge) with servo drive. Just waiting for the print, I surfed a little bit around and found the picture below. I thought LMS semaphores use upper quadrant, don't they? Or were they different from region to region, especially on former LNWR network?

Hello, In magazines I read about modellers who use real coal to fill their tenders, wagons and decorate their collieries. The deep black colour and the shimmer is hard to copy with any artificial material. So I bought a sack of smith's coal. I realized that it is really Hard Coal! Now my question: How would you crush it to 00 size? I

Good evening! I am just fitting my Claughtons with some illumination. One of them will be the oil fired version of the flagship 2222 as seen on a 1921 picture taken at Crewe. On my Lenz decoder there is an option for firebox flicker. Did the oil fired engines have a firebox door and did the fireman open it during operation? So maybe installing firebox lighting on such an engine is wrong, isn't it?

Oh sorry for this. I lost this thread completely from my mind. I think the hosting time has run out. I re-uploaded the Files at Tiny Upload.net

Your 3D CAD work is amazing, far beyond my own abilities. But I have to agree to Dave and have the same problem like others here. I don't really understand, which kind of kits you want to offer. Is it basically a model, like a Revell kit for a display case, or should it be a working loco for the layout? To convert your CAD designs to a printable display kit is for sure a bit time consuming. A complete steam loco can be devided into some basic parts if using a resin printer: Body, chassis, wheels, bogie, tender body, tender chassis with wheels. Regrouping and modifying the objects should be possible. It's a complete different process to build a working rolling stock. The only useful printable parts are: Loco body, tender body, tender chassis, cylinder block and some detail parts (speaking for 4 mm scale). But first there has to be a concept for the chassis and the mechanics. It doesn't make sense to use resin or PLA. I tried it myself, but this material is much too light. A good performing loco needs weight and a low center of gravity, so the chassis has to be brass or some iron casting. Then there are wheels, axles, bearings, gears and the motor. Do you want to offer these necessary metal parts? Especially in larger scale like 35 mm there are a lot of more metal parts that are needed for stability. Beeing honest, I can't imagine a 7,6 foot model of the A4 made of resin or PLA, even if it's not a live steam.

I just ordered some of these motors on EBAY, but I am not shure, it is really the same type. It's a Mabouchi 12 - 18 V motor. The size is 18 x 17,5 x 9 mm, shaft is 1,5 mm: You can check the link here. Regarding the cheap price it runs really well.

Hello guys, Compound2632 put my attention to an absolutely interesting engine, the Hughes 4-6-0. Except the great Millholme Kit of the 4-6-4T, I haven't found any 00 scale models of this class. I learned, that the 1919 rebuilt engines were assigned to heavy express service on the northern section of the LNWR, so it matches to my hunting grounds. The first thing, that has hit my eyes is the extraordinary valve gear. It seems to me beeing identical to the one used on the Crab, isn't it? So using this spare part might ease the modelling job. Now my question to the owners of a good british railway library: Where can I find a prototype drawing of the Hughes? On the web I saw several books of the L&YR. Which is helpfull to get information about this class? Thanks Have a nice day Chris

Thanks! I will decrease the radius of them, so they should not stand out that much.