PatriotClass

I agree. Brass is and will stay the master class of 4mm modelling and it really requires high soldering skills, higher than mine too ;-) The LRM models especially their L&NWR range are great.

Yes, you are absolutely right. This has changed from a prototype question to a scratchbuilding project and got misplaced now in this section. I stop this here and open a new thread in "Scratchbuilding". Thanks

Hello Guys! A new update on this project. The Hornby Patriot chassis did a good job to get this model on rails. Here a short video showing it in motion. The valve gear is a spear part from a Schools-Class and had to be shortened. But at the end it's a shame to demolish an Illustrious, especially to mention, it's a rare model too. So I started three month ago working on a chassis. There is a long list of try and errors and now I have a cigar box full of motors that did not work. Finally I found a 5 pole motor on Ebay that has double shaft and enough torque to allow smooth and slow operation. The gear is 1:105 ratio. The drive acts on the second driving wheel pair. Here the connecting rod is a PLA print and the valve gear is a modified Hornby A1 spare. I will use for the next version a Princess valve gear, because it comes closer to the prototype. To increase the weight and stability of the resin chassis, I added brass parts. The bogie is a Hornby Patriot spare. Finally a Lenz basic decoder assures good control. To show it in motion I made a short Youtube Video - and yes - shame on me, I hooked the wrong tender to the Claughton.

Hello Guys, I hope everybody is doing fine and healthy! Has anybody got an anycubic Photon X? I am searching for a printer that features more building volume than an Elego Mars. Is the Photon X worth of its price? In the description they announce a speed of 60 mm/h ist this true? How about the quality? By the way, here a picture of my UV hardening device - my family is calling it "The Reactor" It's really effective and consits of 6 Lunsy 30 W LED UV floods in alumnium case. Thanks Cheers Chris

Oh yes, that's absolutely possible. Use a syringe (without needle) pull up some resin and you can use it like the pen. Here you have the advantage of free choyce of color. But I think, for this price I will use better the pen. I left it open whole night long. No problems next day. On resin it works better than super glue. PVC to resin or PLA to resin works good aswell. I would suggest to file the surface of PVC or PLA to make it a bit rough. Then you get the same adhesion power as super glue. The connection material is resin, so it is brittle after exposure to UV, means elasticity is zero.

Hello Guys, I hope everybody is doing fine and healthy. I found this UV Glue Pen on Amazon and I am using it now some weeks on my resin prints and I am very content with it. This glue works on the same principle as the UV resin printer. The material is transparent and stay transparent after hardening. The front end of the stick is a small needle dispenser like on the Revell glue. You squeeze the soft tube and it is possible to use it really precisely. On the other end, there is a UV LED lamp to harden the bond. There is one big advantage to Super Glues: You have all time you need to put the parts in position. The glue does not activate before you light it with the UV lamp. So be carefull working in sun light After hardening it is possible to file or sand it. So it's even possible to use it as a filler. They promise 5 seconds lighting to harden the glue. I better light 10 or 20 seconds. Better to long than to short. If you are printing resin, you can use your UV box. For a öprice of 3,15 GBP, it's really okay.

Hello Guys, I hope everybody is doing fine and healthy. I used this Covid19 time to start month ago a plan to build my first loco. It was not the Prince of Wales but the Claughton. Somehow I fell in love with this engine. See my thread at the 3D section. The Prince of Wales is more or less a product on the way, because it saved me from the problem of modelling a valve gear. I think, the major problem in scratchbuilding is not the loco body, it's the chassis and then the motor and the gear. I wanted to build an engine to run on the layout and not for the display shelf and nothing is more annoying than a bad performing model. So I took for my first Prince the easy way to put the 3D printed shell on a B12, like others did before. The old China chassis performs fairly well. Next stage was to develop a chassis of my own that is prototypical and use Markits driving wheels and axles. Here I spent hours and learned a lot about how to make a connecting rod work smoothly. The motor is the next choice to be taken wisely. I didn't wanted to spend 60 GBP on a Faulhaber or Maxxon, so I harvested the China merket on Ebay. 5pole motors with double shaft are rare, so I took several compromises that went wrong. Small 3pole are mostly to weak and tend to stall, brushless ones miss torque at low rpm and a geared motor is much to loud. Gears are special aswell. Brass is louder than PVC and Module 0.3 is too small. 0.4 gears are ideal and in 0.5 you have the best choice on the market. Here I can show you the three prototypes: The B12 Version, the custom chassis and the Tishy on custom chassis If anybody might have interest to convert a B12 to a Prince of Wales, I put the kit on Ebay. I have the LMS converted firebox-Tishy in preparation and on request I can modify both Tishys to fit the B12 chassis. Have a nice evening Chris

Yes, that's a characteristic detail. As the counterweights, I will print them on my resin printer in appx. 0,4 mm and super-glue them on the Drivers. Thanks! Yes, I printed them on my Elago Mars resin Printer.

Good evening Here an update to the project. Now the first prints are ready - well, they are really not the first, but the first that are worse to show. I managed both versions, the 650 Claughton and the rebuilt boiler to ride on the Hornby Patriot chassis of the Illustrious. The shaft of the front bogie has to be made a bit longer. Maybe I will change the driving wheels by a set of Markits and print the original counterweights. For the Caprotti version, the Hornby X-Head 1534 and 1633 are definitively the solution. I just have to find the sliderails anywhere. To reproduce the Walscheart gear I will use the Schools Class X9925.

Oh yes. That's a good hint. I will check where to get the wheel sets. The rod should work. I'd have to adjust the position of the cylinder a little bit.

I got some PMs on this thread and so I would like to give an update about this project: The Claughton body is 3D ready in four versions so far, but I am not so happy with the Patriot chassis. First of all there is a different configuration of the valve gear and connecting rod. The Patriot gear is linked to the center driver. On the Claughton it is the leading wheel set. I tried the gear set of a Schools Class, but even this turned out to long. An optical issue arises using the Patriot's driving wheels. The counterweights are competely wrong for the Claughton. And the third problem is the height of the chassis. Although I turned the motor by 90°, it is about 1 and a half milimeters to high for the old Claughton. It fits just the rebuilt boiler version exactly. I am still working on these issues. Alan Gibson offers neutral driving wheels without counterweights. And shortening the rods is just a soldering challenge. As plan B I am working on a universal x-6-x chassis that will be a combination of 3D printed frame and brass parts. It should fit not only the Claughton, but as well the Prince of Wales and the Experiment. Below the line up is the 650, the Caprotti, the rebuilt boiler and a version with these wind panels attached (sorry, I don't know the correct Englsh word for "Windleitblech" ) The original tender is ready as well. I will make a ROD and an oil burner - the one with the oil barrel on it.

That's interesting! What was the reason for this? Is there an advantage using Walschaerts instead of Joys? Did the LMS keep these engines in service? Hope, Edward Talbot has some pictures of these engines in his book. If I succeed in my project modelling a PoW with a 3D printer, a Tishie would be a nice variation on the layout,

Thanks for this hint. I just cought one on Ebay.uk! Great links! Thank you, PenrithBeacon And... does anybody know, where the Prince of Wales Class has the crankshaft axle? At the first( frontal) driving wheel set or the second one?

Hello Everybody, Hope you all are doing fine! I am just 3D modelling the LNWR Prince of Wales and the Experimental. These engines have like many others of this time a two cylinder mechanism mounted inside the frame. I would like to try to model the inside working mechanism. Now the photographers of this time were not interested in picturing a locomotive from below or catching some inside details. Thanks to Mr Essery's book of the Claughton class I have there a scale drawing of an inside drive - okay, this is a four cylinder but it should be similiar. The first driver axle is a crankshaft with the two actuating rods. This is clearly visible on the drawing. The valve gearing of the Claughton - if it's not a Caprotti - is outside (Walshaerts-System?), so the inner cylinders are compound.. Now the question: Where is the valve gear of a two cylinder inside engine like the Prince of Whales? Is it connected to the crankshaft too? So does it have four rods linked to the shaft? I searched on Google, but due to my not so good English I might using wrong words... As I visited the City of Truro at Swindon, I actually examined this fantastic engine from below, but I can't remember, how the valve gear is working there. Have a nice day Chris

Grat Thank You! And here I found these tools at Wizard Models. I love this forum

Hello, Hope everybody is doing fine. I am just 3D constructing the Claughton Classes tender using R.J.Essery's drawings. Here I found this elegant thing, I can not imagine what it's made for. Sure, I can just copy it, but it is better to understand its function. Anybody knows this part? Thanks Chris

@ianLMS I found nice parts at Peter's Spares from Markits. By the way found there all handrail knobs I need! - Thanks @Skinnylinny Great! This is a very nice sheet indeed! Just placed the order! Thanks @PenrithBeacon A very interesting link, thanks. Found there a lot of information.

Hello Mr Bear, I am also modelling this era and I am pleased with Langley Miniatures, but it's definitely a matter of taste as well. For my workers I like the range of Woodland Scenics figures. There are some sets that - as I find - matches the 20's. I like this set of Andrew Stadden's workers very much. I can add this GoogleSearch of Pics . Maybe it gives you some new trails on investigation. Or here the German Prisers -> GoogleSearch

Hello I hope everybody is doing fine! Modelling my Claughton Class 00 body shell I am at the cab interior details like the regulator, break's lever, the fire box door and all the valves. Even using a resin printer it is not possible to make raised detail of a small size like this. Does anybody know a detail part supplier, where I can order cab detail parts for a steam loco? I borrowed the picture of this bachman fowler to show what I am looking for. Thanks Have a nice day! Chris

That's absolutely, what it is, Mike! Producing bogies is an advanced job and not the project for a beginner to start with. It's really easy beginning with a simple model like a crate, a platform or some tube loads. Even a house is mostly just a collection of a plenty of cubes. The only real limit might be budget, but what do we pay for a brand new loco? For N scalers as Jim said the Anycubic Photon might be the better choice: 320 GBP on Amazon For 00 and 0 scalers I recommend to start with the Anycubic I3 Mega and PLA filament 250 GBP or the s-type 320 GBP It was a big experience for me to realise: "What I can draw, now I can model!" Merry Christmas to all! Chris

Oh, I never would do this! The tender drive Patriot is a poor performer and the big ringfield motor would never fit in the Claughton's tender. Hornby released a more rare to get series of Patriots with loco drive like the Illustrious. Here I thought about using the loco chassis and reconstruct the tender from scratch according to the drawings. Or does anybody now a better fitting model to use the mechanism?

I mean more its unique design. As I saw a picture of this locomotive, I knew at once that I have to model it. I have seen a picture of the large boiler version. Can you tell, what means ROD tender? Is it rail operation division? Do they used this type of tenders on the LMS? Thanks for this hint! I just ordered a copy at Amazon's.

Hi there! I am planning to design a 3D print of a 00 LMS Claughton Class body shell. As leading and driving wheel diameters are identical, I think using a Patriot Class chassis would suit the Claughton well. The Hornby engine driven model is a reliable runner. On the web I found just this small copy of a drawing. Does anybody know the source of this picture or even a book, where I could find a scale drawing of this unique engine? Cheers Chris

Cutting models in parts depends on the possibilities of 3D printing. I always try to avoid supporting structures that have to be cleaned after the job. Some vertikal parts may be easier to print horizontally. Details like pipes and handrails have mostly to be printed separately. And finally it depends on how the underframe and the chassis is constructed. My principle is to cut as less as possible and as much as necessary. Assembling PLA is not like our conventional plastic models, because there are very few adhesives that do an acceptable job on this material. When mechanical stability is needed, I weld the parts from inside using a 3D pen. I'd recommend to have a look on ready to run models. Usually it's divided in driver's cab, boiler with front frame and cylinders. If the boiler is to long, then cut at the rings to hide the joint.

I am really pleased about your interest, thanks! Sorry, but offering the parts to print might start more requests than I have time to answer. Printing the parts will take up to 14 hours of printing. The parts can be assembled like a model kit. You need further 6 M2 10 mm screws, some washers, the buffers, the wheel sets, the bearings and the couplers of your choice. If there is interest I can add a file of a NEM poket that fits this model.