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roythebus1

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Posts posted by roythebus1

  1. The colour pictures I've seen of them look brown, but maroon fades to brown after a few years. My GS bus i painted BS maroon, which appears to be a totally different colour when a fresh panel was painted from the same tin of BS maroon paint!

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  2. On my Mainline coaches the gangways are a clip fit.

     

    On the GW super saloons I had to file the Kean NEM adaptor down to a T shape as I've had to do on most conversions otherwise the wheels foul on curves. No need to cut the floor away though.

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  3. You can't preserve everything. The Southern 4DD group found that out, luckily they now have 2 motor coaches under their control, but they are never likely to run anywhre except behind an air-braked loco. I'm also in the bus preservation world where there's always a cry of "oh look, there's a RT <insert other bus type> in a forest in the Azores, let's bring it back and restore it. Why? there's already over 200 of them in preservation. Oh look a Routemaster in eastern Europe. Let's bring it back and restore it. why? There's still over 1000 of them in existence. I own 2 quite rare BEA half-deck coaches, I've been financing their restoration for the last 50 years. One has been completed and got a Certificate of Initial fitness, the other is still in bits in the workshop. I also have a GS bus that I bought back in 1969. That too has the certificate of Initial Fitness to run in fare-paying service. The first in preservation, but it started a trend as there's now over 30 preserved out of a class of 84. Should I let mine go for scrap if nobody wants to take it on?

     

    I feel for those who want to restore "modern" buses and rail traction. Once the electronics go pop you're stuck. when the GRP panels get broken, it's a bit of a task to make new bits. Not so difficult with olde stock made from timber and metal, make a new bit. But there is a limit to the funds and people with skills to make those bits.

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  4. That's a lot of voltage drop fro 25kv to 11kv! My point is that if you have 2 locos that provide single-phase ac ETH, the 2 alternators will not be in phase. I wasn't trained on locos and REPS on the suvvern, just EMU stock but had the basics of what could and couldn't be done when coupling up. Worked on ac electrics at Rugby and diesels out of Kings Cross as secondman. and the Underground.

  5. I cant remember if I had to cut the floors, I'll have a look later. I've just done about a dozen various KK conversions recently. My Mainline LMS coaches have separate corridor connections. I'm not happy with the small buffers on them, presumably Comet/Wizard do a replacement for them?

     

    I find a Dremel with a cutting disc saves a lot of hard work when fitting the Kean coupler units. with the Kent magnetic couplings I can get very close coupling by careful adjustment of the coupling lengths. But then I don't use curves under 2' radius and try to avoid reverse curves. I really must build a short test track to test these properly.

     

    The Kean couple units could do with some modifications in the manufacture, narrowing the baseplate would save a lot of work cutting floors out or filing the units to fit between solebars, and a T shape on the NEM adaptor would save a lot of time finding out that it fouls the wheels on most stock.

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  6. I suppose if you get one of each you could have the giraffe ducking out of the way when the sniper pops up? :). I had a Battle Space turbo car as well. on the MRC's test tracks it went so fast it launched itself across the club room! the vintage controllers they had at the time gave out about 24v. 

  7. thanks for that info, so they would have run in BR maroon as well? I replaced the wheels with Hornby 14mm metal wheels and fitted the Kean close coupling system. I presume the buffers are too small, they just don't look right and the corridor connections are too short. they look ok though. I'm getting too od to worry about a few bits of underframe missing or not being quite right. I do like close coupling though, seeing main line trains with a scale 6' gap between coaches doesn't look right. It doesn't take much effort to get them close coupled.

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  8. Rummaging through my drawers (as one does) and boxes of round tuits, I found a couple of Mainline/Palitoy LMS coaches in blood and custard livery. they have corridor connections and individual compartment doors and windows one side, and 3 doors and long windows the other side, both composites. Just wondering how accurate they are as models. They seemed to be good models when I got then in the early 1980s, along with Airfix and Lima Siphon G and Siphon H parcels vans, they also looked good for their era. 

     

    I've just updated them a bit with metal wheels, Kean systems close-coupling and Kadee or Roco close-couplings. With the Mainline coaches, I'm wondering how long they lasted in service with BR. Jut remembered, there's also a couple of Mainline GW bow-ended coaches that have had similar clos-coupling treatment. I know thy lasted will into the 1960s as I took pictures of the real thing at Old Oak Common.

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  9. 10 hours ago, Curlew said:

    Looks very much like the southern Lake District - maybe Grange over Sands area? The coaches look a bit like an LMS push-pull set. The loco seems to be push-pull fitted, I think.

    Yes, the loco has additional pipework on the bufferbeam for push-pull working.

     

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  10. 12 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

    If you use a long length you can get the draft box fitted so that is not protruding forward of the bufferbeam and looks a lot better.

    Thos couplings need to be mounted further back so the back edge of the C of the knuckle is level with the buffer face. It gives a good close coupling and should still go round sharp corners. If I get time I'll do some pics of my stock. I've just spent a couple of evenings fitting some old Mainline coaches with Kean close couplings and a mix of Kadees and Roco KKs. I've posted pics recently of Bachy suburban coaches fitted with the Kean system and a variety of couplings.My Applemac keeps losing my entire photo library when I try to post pics on the internet. Then they reappear!!

     

  11. I've done quite a few old Bachmann and others, use the medium length Kadee 147 whisker coupling I think, screw straight onto the wagon floor, drilling a new hole. The back edge of the knuckle should be level with the buffer line, that way you close up that horrible big gap to get close coupling. Just get rid of the old coupling mountings. the new whisker coupling takes the pain out of fitting the self-centring spring!

     

    I'm also fitting Kean close-couplings to my coaches and using either roco or Hornby close-couplers with Kadee 18 NEM couplers on the outer ends. Also currently trying the Kent magnetic couplings.

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  12. The 2EPBs did have a collector shoe on the outer end of the driving trailer, otherwise the unit would only have one collector shoe each side and would be liable to get gapped, something which most Southern electric drivers will have had experience of. :)

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  13. From my memory of driving EPB stock every day for 10 years, 4 car units didn't have shoe beams on trailing bogies, nor did the 2EP units either. Having said that the 2EPs had collector beams on the outer end of the driving trailer.

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