EasternO

I'm buying a resin printer in January. It's 12k with a fairly big build plate. If you need help printing big parts next year I'd be happy to help out.

How about a J15 or E4?

I've settled on a classic. I have all of the track and half of the running stock. It's made from two 1100 boards and one 700 board with traverser. After Christmas I'll order the centre board, probably from Grainge & Hodder.

Thanks. I have a few 105s and a Derby Lightweight. I'm looking for another Lightweight and a couple 101s if anyone knows of any at a decent price.

Thank you all, really good info. I don't know anything much about DCC other than what I've read and managed to understand. I'm not into sound just yet but I may be in the future. For now I'm looking for the refinement of DCC control and incorporating that into JRMI or similar. I've got 4 Bachmann DMUs but I'm looking for a couple more, so at least 6 decoders eventually. I'll probably have a pop at the Zimo MX600R as that seems to be highly recommended.

Equally fabulous. What you've suggested about through wiring is what I was thinking too. The wiring diagram seems to suggest that a second decoder is not absolutely required, just easier. Thanks.

Fabulous, thank you very much. Is the fourth function a simple on-off type of switch or variable voltage or programmable? I can't think of a use for a 4th function on a DMU yet, but it's good to know.

Thanks. I looked but nothing I looked at answered any of my questions. I'll call a DCC specialist in the morning.

I have a number of Bachmann DMUs with 8 pin sockets. I'd like to convert all of these to DCC (not sound) and to standardise one type and brand of decoder. From what I've read so far I will have 4 functions, although I don't know what these functions are. I would assume that two functions would be forward and reverse lighting and perhaps another one being interior lighting? As I'm primarily interested in motor control for smooth acceleration and slow running, can I have a couple recommendations for economically priced decoders please. If anyone is aware of any problems I may encounter converting them I'd be grateful for the heads up. I have been looking on ebay and have found listings for LaisDCC decoders quite cheap at around £12, and Rails Connect for about £20. Thanks in advance

I don't mind too much if there are one or two little problems with it, or if it has a box. As long as I can repair it or buy spare parts. I have a budget of approx £100

I love this thread. Have you have any problems with running because of lack of mass because of the plasticard construction?

I'm no expert on this particular class but it looks to me that the original version matches photos better than the remake. You've got a nice little layout there. I was hoping to build something in my loft last year but I've moved into a flat. I do have 3 metres going spare though! I emailed Steve last week as I bought a some parts of a very small Ruston diesel and couldn't work out how to put one of them together so I hoped he had an instruction manual. He told me that he does legally own the tool sets and the reproduction rights so it will indeed be interesting what's going to happen from any potential legal wrangles. I shall continue to watch your thread. It's been fun for the few months I've been following. Cheers, John

I have heard there are imminent legal proceedings regarding the Class 15 model. I occasionally email the bloke who started the Little Loco Company as I bought a few things from him a few years ago. There are definite detail differences between the models and I wonder if there are differences inside too?

I was getting quite excited about the automated loft layout. I had the space and the budget. Unfortunately the situation has changed in every respect. I'm still thinking about what I can do on a limited budget, and I'm still looking for any bargains on ebay. I'm thinking a double-slip is now essential for successful train movements The layout will be built in my bedroom, but right now that room is full of boxes. Before I can do anything I have to unpack and sort stuff out to clear space for the baseboard. I'm looking at incorporating some sort of cassette system on one spur to make it more usable as a 'normal' layout if the need arises. It will essentially be a puzzle for the computer to solve using rules. For example, each spur will be at least 4 coaches long to allow for two 2-car DMUs or one 4-car. I plan on at least five spurs, which will be wholly or part occupied. The computer will choose a formation and destination and then figure out how to move it there, clearing the space if the destination is occupied and freeing the train if it is trapped. I'm not worried about sound, but DCC is essential, and I'd like to have a softly illuminated layout so I can run it in the evening while I'm working on other things. Obviously it's not going to be built over a weekend.

I think you found what I thought was missing from these long spurs. I played around putting a runaround on different spurs and I think I've found the best one. What do you think?

Thanks Ray, I read through your thread. Very interesting. I started in O but thought I didn't have space. I have almost the same space as you did. I've still got some of my kits so maybe I'll build two layouts for the same shelf eventually.

I downloaded Anyrail to see what I could come up with using the track already I own. This is the best I could do. It's not quite doing it for me but the positive is that all the points are on the centre board. I plan on making 3x 1m boards or buying some floating shelving. The basic aim is still the same, to learn automation. Each length of track will be electrically split into two sections and each point. I'll eventually use a spare Raspberry Pi I have to shuffle trains from one siding to another. I would be very happy indeed if somebody could come up with a better design or more interesting design. I may be able to stretch to one more point, or if I could find one cheap enough, a double slip.

A lot of things have happened since my last post. I have moved into a flat so I don't have a loft anymore. I'll probably start a new post but I have a 3m length and up to 35cm depth. I'm also on a much more restricted budget so I'm looking to use the items I have already, which are Peco SL86X curved right hand, SL87X curved left hand and SL98X large Y points plus several lengths of flexi.

Great thread, I love watching it. However, you've only listed the cost of parts in your comparison. The true, fair price would be £36.45 + (hourly rate x hours spent). That would make your model considerably more expensive than an RTR equivalent model. The same would apply for any scale, and would make smaller scales less viable comparisons of value because the time spent of them is similar. Regardless, this thread remains one of my favourites on RMWeb.

Do you work off photographs or do you obtain the engineering drawings?

Thanks David, that's very interesting and exactly the sort of information I was after. Did the £125 include CAD or was it just the print? I can design in 2D fine, but not so much 3D.

Thanks above, but to clarify: I'd like to build brass patterns of wagon parts to cast (RTV) in pewter or another 'white metal'. I won't be casting whole wagons in one piece, but parts of wagons to solder or fix together some other way. Apologies for the confusion in the way I worded my question. What I've learned so far, which is critical before you start making patterns, is that most cast metal materials can shrink once cooled, typically by around 3% but can be more or less than this. So, to start the ball rolling on instructionals, I would have to decide which material I would like to cast my wagons from so I know how much larger I would have to make them to account for shrinkage. This is critical. Second, do I make a whole wagon of parts or, if the wagon is symmetrical, do I just make an end and a side and make two castings of each? There are many suppliers of parts, but would it be best to produce my own in case one of the suppliers goes out of business? I'm thinking about the obvious things like wheels, buffers, couplings, etc. Also, what sort of fidelity is achievable with RTV or any other casting process? For example, could I include intricate hinges or pin chains into my patterns or are these better added when building the model? It's these sorts of questions I'd like answered, so seeing someone do it, or reading about it, would give me a better understanding of the process. Thanks

Are there any relevant instructional websites or videos on building brass patterns for casting in pewter out there or on here? I can't find any with my search terms. Whole wagons would be ideal, but a general overview would be fine. Thanks.

That was an excellent response, thank you. Fabulous picture too!

I've looked at many photographs of Edwardian/Victorian wooden open wagons over the last few weeks. Almost all show butted planks tied together with washer plates but some appear to show tongue and groove or some other more precise fixing method. The photos are not always clear and neither are official drawings. Did different railway companies adopt different methods or were they all the same?