EasternO

Thank you all for confirming my doubts. I didn't fancy cutting out the hole and finding a mechanism for the turntable. so that a headache gone. I've included a way to cross from tracks B & C (see X) other than the main line in/out to give a bit more flexibility. Again, I'm not sure I need this but it felt right to me. I've included the baseboards on this picture so you can see my width restrictions.

At the moment, a train can depart from the storage lines (bottom right) and arrive on any line in the yard/ They can then be shunted or disassembled onto any other line to make a new train to take into storage. The storage lines are a bit longer than shown here.

I'd like to build a few 7mm scale wagons and a couple steam 0-6-0 locos. I'm not looking for a traditional scenic layout, just something to test the models and play shunting, assembling/disassembling trains, etc. I've designed the following but it doesn't look very inspiring to me. I don't mind the straight lines but I would like something interesting to look at and to play on. I'm happy to lose the turntable as I don't think it really adds anything on this particular design. This will run around two walls of a spare bedroom so is restricted in width of approx 40cm. I'd like suggestions to improve this, or maybe a completely different design please. I'll be building the track myself so I'm not limited to anything off the shelf. This current design has all radii set at 150cm. I don't really want to go below this.

I have some files for a couple O gauge locos that I would like finished and adapted for 3D printing. I have STEP files for individual components, some of which will be better combined for 3D printing, plus the chassis of each will need to be adapted to the new production method. I have no idea about payment, but we could work that out together. Please respond below or send a message for more info.

No worries. If they are half-etched a guide won't really help. The guide is great if you are making your own with no half-etched helpers. I used the die to line up with the half-etched dimples and then lever the rivets in. Always in line, as long as the etches are drawn correctly.

I have the basic rivet press I no longer use. Has some surface rust, but easily removed with a brillo pad or similar. Has all of the punches included, which are 2mm, 4mm and 7mm. I can take a pic if you're interested.

Thank you. We're almost on the same subject matter and we use the same software! I've only read your first post but I'll read the rest. Much obliged

Hello, I'd like to obtain accurate dimensioned and profile drawings of BR Mk1 coach bodies and early DMUs please. I'm learning CAD for a project so thought these would be an ideal candidate. I did hear of a book mentioned but unfortunately I can't remember where I saw the name and search terms don't bring any reminders up. Any help would be gratefully received and I'm sure there are resources out there but I'm not looking properly. Thanks

Merry Christmas all, I hope Santa managed to unload his sack down your chimneys. I started a side project yesterday. I've bought a few used models over the last few months but as I don't have a layout I'd need something to test them on. Plus I could use a running-in track, and later a DCC programming track. This is a foldaway 800mm square board, which folds up to 800x400. I plan to top it with 6mm or 9mm ply, The circle is Peco R1 double curves. External power supply, either DC or DCC.

I'm a novice at DCC, but wouldn't you only need approx 0.5-1 second of 1A capacitor power? That would depend on track dead spots like insulated frogs, etc.

Is that all it takes for the numbering? That's handy. Thank you all for responding and offering advice.

I have a Bachmann model that has yellow SYP ends but I'd like an all green version. Is there an easy way to remove just the yellow and retain the green underneath? I'd also like to change the numbering. If I have to respray, what colour green does Bachmann use? I've tried searching but only got results that say people have done this but not how. Thanks

Excuse the thread resurrection. What underframe differences where there between the Derby Lightweight and the 108 DMUs? Everything below the body tumblehome really, including buffers and MU cabling, plus of course engine, battery boxes, fuel tanks, etc. I brought this thread back up because it's got some really good info in it.

That's a very convincing result from some questionable parts. Excellent job. I recall that there is an article in a magazine from quite a while ago that detailed the Wickham units. Does anyone know which magazine and the date or issue number?

I'd be very interested to see that too

Thanks for the pics and info. I would feel very reluctant to cut up a Bachmann model at current prices but I would not have that same problem with the Hornby (which I don't have yet). Mating the Hornby body to the Bachmann chassis will be interesting as I doubt replicating the Bachmann clips will be easy.

Great picture. The roof profile is also different. Does the return slope on the cab front start in the same place on both models? The Bachmann version also has rather thick window frames. Do you have the Hornby R3146 model with four lights? This is the one I would use as a base. https://www.railcar.co.uk/images/uploads/met-camm-lightweight/800/met-camm-lightweight-1580359452-800.jpg

Yes, I noticed that too. I'm not sure if this is the thick window frames playing tricks or the windows are dimensionally incorrect. Without owning one I can't say. I've not seen a good picture of the chassis and components so can't say whether this is accurate or not. I'm guessing that it would require a lot of work, or maybe better, a Bachmann chassis?

Did you manage to complete the conversion? I was planning on converting a Bachmann 101 but they are really expensive, even used models. The Hornby model seems cheaper and easier, although the their model is much less detailed than the Bachmann.

I was very tempted with that one but instead opted for the 10". I want it to produce casting masters so the resolution is a bit more relevant than the size. They have said that crowdfunders can increase their allocation at the initial offering price, so I'll see if I get a Christmas bonus to play with!

You are almost certainly correct, I bought all the track in a bundle a while ago so it's what I have for the moment. I did have a whole loft to play with but now it's just a 3m length. It's probably the most exciting plan I can manage with only 30cm approx width to play with.

Thanks for that. I'm one of the crowdfunders on the UltraPrint 12k. It looks like it uses the Saturn 12k as a base, with an intergrated top end UI and the resin pump from Creality. It should perform really well, as long as all the hardware has been integrated properly.

It's neither of those. Out of interest, which one is the better one and why? This will be my first 3D printer of any type.

I'm buying a resin printer in January. It's 12k with a fairly big build plate. If you need help printing big parts next year I'd be happy to help out.

How about a J15 or E4?