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RCP

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  1. Brilliant, I'll do that. Do you have any tips on keeping them from flexing too much I was thinking coach bolts 2/3rds down the members.
  2. I am a railway modeller subscriber. So can access any article that you think is relevant. The plan is for it to be in 2 baseboards of 1100x1150mm which are joined together. I’ve taken care to not put points over the join although the Central crossing are at an angle. The size was chosen as that’s the space I have allocated under the eves… I accept it will take up the room but if it’s out then that’s all I intend to be doing with the room at that point. After it goes away. 1.1m square boards seem manageable It will be bolted together in use and packed away when not in use. Obviously I’m not expecting scenery to last that long on it, but this is an exercise in just getting going. Do you think a double skinned board with holes cut on one skin in the non braced sections for access would be superior to a single thicker sheet? My only concern is the reduced accessibility of under the board.
  3. So I'm looking at building my first layout with the idea that it will be a test bed for the getting to grips with various aspects. Its going to be in code 100 as I have a box of flexitrack and numerous other pieces of set track and a few points. Unfortunately most of the turnouts I have are streamline long turnouts and try as I might I'm struggling to get many to fit. So I'll have to buy some. To that end I'm looking at acquiring 1x SL-U76 3x SL-U77 & 3x SL-E97. This will compliment the 2x SL-97 1x SL95 and 1x SL88. These are all Insulfrog. I've borrowed the idea of using Streamline Y turnouts from the Bredon revisited thread as this seems sensible. The layout I've sketched out so far is as follows and measures 2100x1150mm: For the baseboard I was intending on using 9mm hardwood ply from B&Q (should I go thinner). Given the intention to fit point motors am I right in thinking that 46mm depth would be sufficient? Any advice on the optimum strut depth to baseboard sheet thickness would be appreciated. It will be split in two. To start with I'm intending on running it with 2 DC controllers and was planning on splitting it as follows: What I want from the layout in future is as follows: I would like to progress the layout to DCC I would like Block detection in future (yes its small and pointless but its a training exercise) I would like to end up using JMRI I'm planning on putting droppers on all the track and then grouping them as follows if anyone can suggest improvements that would be appreciated: My understanding is I have two options, current detection and optical. Given how small the layout is I presume that current detection is out the question. Can anyone point me in the direction of optical detectors? I'm happy hacking electrical items together so Pi based wouldn't be a disaster. As mentioned at the start I'm going to have to but some more points and am intending to buy electrofrog. That will leave me with a mix. If you were in my shoes were would you place the two insufrog Y turnouts on the layout? Both in the sidings in the middle? Am I missing any breaks? Many thanks in advance for any responses.
  4. Markits seems like the way to go.. The brass kits seem like fun so looking to dip my toe in and give it a go, that and seems like a fun way to spend a few hours in the evening :-). I really like the idea of P4 but the radius are just prohibitive at the moment. Give it a few years and a bit more space then that or EM seems like the way to go. From threads I understand that you can use EM wheels on 00 stuff so might down the route of re-wheeling stuff with EM compatible wheels and then change the axels if and when I make the jump. I'm trying to avoid buying multiple times, so better once is the plan. It'll be code 100 for the first layout as it'll be the fastest way to get me up and running without breaking the bank. That and there aren't any bullhead turnouts in the type I need just yet and I'm under no illusion that my first couple of turnouts are likely to be "sub optimal". Once I've butchered the track I have I'll look at replacing stuff with the bullhead.
  5. Many thanks for all the replies, based of the feedback I'm going to run with the following. The point made by 34theletterbetweenB&D that subjects that are unlikely to get a RTR model are what I would I should focus on has me torn on the way forward. Looking around at Brass kits they aren't exactly cheap or at least the ones that I've have an interest in building. With that in mind I think I'll order the Collett tender kit and if it all goes horribly wrong then its a cheap ish loss and at best I've got something that I want. I'll start with replicating a peco turnout, maybe something like the ST240 set track turnout, and try out different methods. That should familiarise myself with templot and turnout modelling. I think that's in 00-BF gauge so if anyone can recommend a good set of track gauges that would be great? I'm going to start with a Bredon style layout and will give the new PECO curved turnouts a go. This will be in Code 100, as I have a load of that track, Just need to filter out steel rails... I'll wire this with DCC and block detection in mind so I'll make another post with the proposed layout and where the insulated fish plates should go. I'll run with my idea of Hornby DCC decoders. Probably starting with the Parcel Van as there is loads of space in it so should be the easiest to convert and I can use the already available 8pin. I suspect I will have to wait for the 6pin to come available to fit them in the smaller engines. Ordered a 00neal printed 12xx body for one of the pugs which should make a good testbed for trying out airbrushing locomotives. Once again thanks for all the advice!
  6. Thanks for this, can you recommend any good replacement wheels? I’m looking to add lights to the Collett coaches so metal is a must. Preferably would work well with 00-SF if I went down that route. Accepted that it’s an expensive proposition building the kits, but the wagons aren’t particularly cheap either and the upshot is I would have one model that would be easier to convert to DCC. Worst case scenario I make a mess of the chassis kit and have to eBay at a loss the motor and wheel set. Also given the lack of layout it’s something that I can be getting on with. For the point work I’m thinking of starting out by replicating a PECO point and going for there. Again more the s**ts and giggles. Worst case scenario I end with a useless piece of metal. 😂
  7. I think there is one near ish but unsure how to get involved Mizens Railway (Woking Miniature Railway Society) and can't find an email address... I was under the illusion that 00-SF could be kept to the point work and that i could use flexitrack (say peco code 75 bullhead) for the rest? Am I wrong? Might need to look at a different gauge if that's so.
  8. Many thanks for the response, I'll add Markits to the list. I did look at the price difference but for me the running trains is secondary to the building and skills learning, I presume that a well built kit from HL won't be a bad runner and its something I can do on the kitchen table whilst I make space for a layout. The other advantage is I can space out the costs just buying the next bit when I need it. I have quite a few of the pricey bits and bobs to get going so there isn't that (airbrush/weller) just specific consumables needed. I'll take your advice on the pannier. Its a rubbish runner anyway. With regards to P4 I think my enthusiasm stops at trying to sort out the valve gear for models. I've been reading with interest the scalefour forum and it does seem like a goldmine. If I win the lottery I'll go P4 otherwise 00-SF seems like the route forward as you can if I understood chop and change to a degree between kit and pre made. I am planning on going to an Expo but this years is likely to fall inconveniently. Would be good to see a compete list of expos available through the year.
  9. I've returned a little earlier at mid thirties, whilst I appreciate that the wish list looks high, electronics are not a new thing for me and didn't disappear during the interregnum. I'm trying to structure how I reengage with modelling taking the stuff that I have applicable knowledge first hence the fit dcc comes high on the list. The other driver is the lack of space currently for a layout of any sensible proportions, so the items picked enable smaller space layouts or can be done as small stand alone projects. I'm thinking that a rehash of Bredon from the 1970s with custom point work would be a good first project given the streamline peco points by and large don't work with the layout. With that said fully take onboard that its a tall order in places. I'd just rather aim at where I want to be from the start so the direction of travel is clear. Nothing more depressing that going through the motions of something that you know you don't want.
  10. Hello All, After two decades I'm looking to get back into railway modelling and am seeking some advice. Like many I've returned after short break between being a kid and getting life setup 😁. As a kid I never managed to get beyond trackset on the carpet despite grand plans for a loft layout. The upside is that there is a small supply of stuff to get me going, a head full of ideas and significantly more skills then back then. I've kindly been let to rummage through the collection at my parents and have assembled a collection of locomotives and rolling stock. With a small child and hopefully another on the way, funds, space and time are at a premium. Enthusiasm and childlike curiosity aren't in short supply. The stock I've picked out is as follows: 2x Hornby LMS 0F 1x Lima GWR Parcel Railcar 1x Mainline Collett Goods 1x Mainline 0-6-2 T 66xx? 1x Airfix Large Prairie 1x Airfix 14xx 1x Replica Railways Pannier 1x Airfix Autocar 3x Bachmann Collett coaches Toad Slaters Saxo Salt kits Bachmann 45T GWR flatbed 2x Lima Siphon G 2x Hornby DC controllers R912 Peco code 100 steamline points various Peco code 100 flexitrack box Various curves and set track some steel... I have an long term project and goals in mind which are the following, I'd like to move to DCC, I'm interested in block detection, my grand project idea is Frome Station replica based in early 1930's (at 7-10m total length this will have to wait until I get a garden with suitable shed, if it ever happens), I like the idea of finescale modelling. I've started by servicing them so that they run, following tutorials from various YouTubers, All apart from the Large Prairie have been a successes (I'll stick that on ebay as spares/repair, its regionally wrong anyway). Some of these are not the best runners and it appears that I have a fine collection of split chassis model... With this in mind and given the limited space for large layouts the obvious way to get going to to improve and refurbish the kit I have. I noticed that High level kits do chassis for the models that are split chassis. Can anyone list in order of difficultly the following candidates? 57xx Pannier Collett Goods 66xx Small Prairie Tank If I go down this route can anyone advise on the motor I should get to go with the kit? I presume that I should go for the highest gear ratio to allow slow running eg 54:1? I am planning on fitting the Hornby HM7000 decoder as it means I can skip buying a DCC controller until I have a layout and a better idea as to what I want from it. Which brings us unto wheels, am I right in thinking my options are either Alan Gibson or Exactoscale are there any others? Can I use the existing wheel sets and upgrade later? Given I'm looking at rebuilding and new chassis I'm aware that it might be the perfect oppertunity to move to P4, however my thoughts were that it might preclude engagement by the little one as they've shown interest in Thomas & friends. If the request comes through for a Thomas train then any trainset that Dad has would be incompatible. With that said. Something a little more realistic would be good, and the PECO bullhead track for visible layout and hand made points seems like an ok compromise. Which brings us to wheels. Would the packs of Dapol wheels be suitable for PECO bullhead rail and custom points or do I need something of finer scale? I'm familiarising (or intend to) myself with Templot for custom points, and think you can print in 3d the underbit. Does anyone know of a suitable printing service for this? I have a creality 3d extrusion printer but suspect it might not be accurate enough. Apologies for the long post. Any advice gratefully received. TL:DR Q1 - Order of difficulty of High Level kits? Q2 - Which HL motor? Q3 - Which gear ratio? Q4 - Where to buy locomotive wheels? Q5 - Would the packs of Dapol wheels be suitable for PECO bullhead rail and custom points? Q6 - Where best to get custom points bases in plastic printed if needed? Bonus Question, what detailing would you do given the starting stock.
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