RCP

Many thanks for the reply's @PMP @Captain Kernow @Miss Prism , based off this I guess 6743 is the one for me and I should then add some steam/ vacuum pipes and screw link couplings to it as the alternative is adding rivet detail, a bridge too far for my skills currently. Is there any other things that differentiated the 67xx from the 57xx that I've missed? https://www.accurascale.com/collections/gwr-57xx-67xx-8750-pannier-tank/products/6700-class-6743-great-western-green

Can anyone tell me which of the models on offer would best fit Pannier 8745 around 1934? I can see from Wikipedia that it was built by W G Bagnell but I’m not sure where I should be looking with regards to new or old style cab handrails?

Do you have a picture of this? Not sure what you are referring too.

I’m also interested in converting a pannier, namely to a 655. My first thoughts were 3D print it but I haven’t got a scooby doo as to where I would find relevant drawings and I have a replica railways pannier that could be pressganged. Also have one old Hornby 2721 in need of a new chassis although I think the axel spacing is skewed so I’m not sure of the best way to solve this. Thank you Accurascale, this can fill in the pannier number 8745. 🥳

Do you happen to know the month and year. I’d be interested in this article.

What did you adjust the back to back to? 14.4?

So there has been progress on the layout, I now have boards, track and droppers fitted. And it kinda works. More on that later Layout I ended up going with making up the boards myself, it was £100 worth of material vs the £270 laser cut ones. I went to B&Q and got them to cut up 2x 1200x2400 into 3. Simple frame round the outside with one strut in the middle. I’ll add more struts from some 5mm ply I have cut to size. I figured it was better to get the wiring in place first. I’ve used 5 dowels and 4 bolts on each join, Seems ridged enough. Despite best efforts there was a fingernail ridge between the boards in sections. I ramped the track with a couple of pieces of paper pva glued down to make this flat. Track was laid according to the AnyRail plan apart from the slight deviation on the inside left curve which I pushed out to make the curve longer. There hasn’t been much running but things work better than I thought they would. Derailments seem to be limited to the GWR parcels car, the Bachmann crocodile, and the Bachmann Collett coaches, The Crocodile seems to be fine when I add something heavy as a load. The coaches seem to only derail on the single right hand curve. I’m thinking I might push it out a bit more, by replacing the R2 with some flexible track. The Parcels might be the back to back on the wheels. I’ve drilled 8mm holes in preparation for point motors, probably MTB MP10 (requested as xmas presents). Wiring is on a Bus after biting the bullet and decided DCC from the get go. Everything seems to run round no problem from a pickup perspective. I ended up using epoxy resin on the track joins, which seems to work although I’m temped to rework some of them as they aren’t the best job I’ve ever done. Stock Autocoach A30 After acquiring the dart castings kit, I’ve been slowly plugging my way through the instructions. I went with removing everything on the underside and starting from fresh. I’ve used 1mm brass angle for the underframe. Quite pleased with the outcome although I think the queen posts(??) aren’t actually angle in real life. That might bug me. I used Halfords etch primer and then covered using Railmatch worn black paint and an airbrush. Frankly amazed it turned out half as good as it did. I used half half thinner to paint. I added all the gubbins to the ends so coupling it to the 14xx shall be interesting. I did see at scaleforum what appeared to be coaches joined together by rigged wire. So I think this might be the way forward. Still to add are some Accurascale couplings. The roof underside has received 2 coats of halfords regular grey primer and will be sprayed white before the lights and reed switches are fitted in place. The coach body is coming along, I didn’t cut anything off I shouldn’t have. Just need to decide on if I should do the door handles as well. Not sure what gauge wire I should be using for that though (0.5mm?). I also need to deciede if I’m going to go for it and repaint the actual coach body work. I can’t find any details on which coaches were assigned where, so I’m holding off until I have a plausible number to add to the side. Preferably one that ran too Frome during the mid 1930’s. Westbury and Bristol had 14xx’s so maybe from one of those directions. Following images posted by brossard I decided that the way forward would be to print the inside in its entirety. I headed over to Didcot only to find that on non steam days you can’t see inside autocoach 190… Hey ho. I’ve made a cad stencil of the various compartments and will fill it as I get pictures. In the meantime I did the seat covers as there are sufficient images available for this. The results look way better than anything I could ever hope to achieve with a brush so that sold it for me. Prize Beetle Van The prize beetle van was an impulse purchase after have a rather fruitless search for suitable GWR cattle vans. Everything seems to have one issue or another with regards to accuracy. I’ve added 25grams of wheel weights inside and this seems to give it a satisfying weight. After a trip to the scale forum in High Wickham and armed with Miss Prisms advice that I was looking for cross-cornered DCIII set of brakes the helpful person on the Scale Forum stall sold me a Morgan Designs etch kit. All I can say is that I’m still trying to figure out the brake rod arrangement and the DC3 ratchet etch has me stumped. I’ve been using 0.3mm brass wire on all of the cross rodding but I take that it should be 0.7mm.. This is definitely work in progress, clasp brakes (think that’s what they are called) images seem to be sparse. GWR Parcels Van The parcels van received a new set of wheels from peters spares, extra pickups, shawplan glazing, 8 pin harness and a LAISDCC decoder. The good news is that apparently my layout works with DCC and the conversion worked first time although the wiring needs cleaning up after completion of the running lights. Bad news is apparently with the new wheels it doesn’t like the track in two places. One is the single track curve (R2 radius) right side, and the other is the central straight at the front. The curve will be pushed out, but I suspect I might have a back to back issue. It only derails on the trailing bogie. The shawpaln glazing looks lovely however the original set of glazing had what appears to be grills or bars on the window? Has anyone addressed this and if so how? Were these bars or wooden shutters? I noticed on the Heljan model that the drivers side window had a red outline, Is this on all sides? Still to add is screw lock couplings, steam/vacuum pipes, plus any other recommended mods. I’m planning in filing down some tower LED’s and fitting them to the front and rear, Just need to figure our how to wire the DCC lighting for forwards and reverse.

Current one is missing in action. A replacement is on its way...

Perfect thank you. I'll give that a go.

I haven't got the old plug.. Hence the question what type of plug is it. I have PSU's coming out of my ears including 15v/16v ones that would be suitable. I'm looking for the dimensions or model of the the correct pug needed. The unit came without the psu.

Its 16v 1 amp and centre pin positive, its the plug type that I'm after.

No its the newer blue device that works with a DC power supply. The unit works with a 12v psu I have on hand but the plug is a little on the small side so wanted to aquire the correct plug and rewire the Hornby psu.

I've acquired a Bachmann EZ Control (DC Voltage input) that came second hand. It didn't come with a PSU however I have a couple to hand. The unit works with a 12v dc psu but this is the wrong voltage for proper running and the plug is a little loose. I have a Hornby P9300 which is probably more suitable but it has the wrong dc plug end. Can anyone tell me the correct inside pin and outside diameter for this unit?

Having followed your posts, I'll be buying whatever you ship 😁. What would be fantastic would be a set of digital drawings that could be shipped or bought separately with them. The year by year idea definitely has its upside. I'm looking to scratch build a Class 655 and 2721 No 2705 & 2799 so this approach might help narrow down specifics that that batch had.

Can you tell me the difference between the LP1/2 and 10, I can't find any description anywhere of the differences.

What gear ratio do you use? 40:1?

Brilliant thank you

Brilliant thank you.

Please, please, please 😁 I saw these, I was looking at this tower models underside to get an idea of detail under a wagon. I presume that I'm going to have to make the second V if I want a rodding underneath. The instructions are pretty cryptic or it comes with more than a few spares. I suspect its my lack knowledge... http://www.tower-models.com/towermodels/ogauge/towerbrass/gwrcoach/autocoaches/Image12.jpg

I’m attempting my first plastic kit wagon and am slightly lost as to the underside arrangement of vacuum cylinder vs what I think is called the V hanger. Does anyone have a picture of the underside for reference? Google doesn’t seem to throw anything up.

just come across this project. Is there any chance you could post some pictures of the final thing or re upload some of the original?

Ordered thank you.

This is good to know. Am I right in thinking that you are using a combination of paint retarder and ipa mixed in with your paint? Having cleaned the underside of the coach roof I’ll keep trying on that.

I’m planning on lighting the coach and having a working lamp red/white lamp on the drivers end. Still deliberating about how best to do this with regards switching, but I’m leaning towards bridge rectifiers on each bogie and two reed switches on the ceiling switching two latching relays for on/off and change of colour. I wanted the lamp to change direction automatically but couldn’t come up with a workable solution so magnet on the end of a stick it is.