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Mysticpuzzle

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  1. Hi all, I am slowly acquiring the hardware required for the model build. What do people use for point motors? I have 17 points in total (I think so) and buying the surface mounted or other variants is turning out to be an extremely expensive affair. Any cheaper options around which do not break the bank? Thanks.
  2. So, the progress has been slow but finally managed to get the tables sorted and installed. I am really pleased with the IKEA tables- they are cheap (£15 each sans the legs), are sufficiently sturdy (were heavier than I expected) and best of all, every leg has a disc at the end which can be used to increase and also fine tune the height of the table. My son and I spent about couple of hours getting all the tables together (he just screwed in the legs) so good bonding time away from television. I think he is also starting to understand that this whole project is going to take time, which hopefully is teaching him patience since he hasn't complained so far :D Next step is to lay the tracks and iron out any irregularities between the layout on paper vs. reality. Then to plan the electrics. I am also thinking very seriously about going DCC. Changing the points manually with 4 locos on the tracks might turn out to be cumbersome, I am guessing. Got a like-new Hornby Elite from Gumtree for less than £100 so might work. I already have a Hornby Select which I got free. Will google and read stuff about the electrics to get the basics right. @n9, you raise some great points. I see that Copydex is latex based and a lot of members advise against it. What's your experience with it? And how do you remove it once set? I am trying not to make any changes, albeit I come up with an idea pretty much every day. This is my first model and I want to take it easy, understand the basics and essentially enjoy the process. Maybe the next project, I will experiment but I will be a bit more confident too. Good luck with your project!
  3. @cypherman, that sounds like a brilliant and cost effective solution. As I am renting currently, and since I am turning one of the rooms into a train shed, I do not want to make any changes which will spook the landlord :) Some people understand, some just want a reason to complain. I will post a photo of the progress in a bit as per which the door has turned to be absolutely unobtrusive.
  4. Thanks for getting back, @Glob-Ally. I persisted and managed to understand AnyRail better which helped.
  5. Right, I forgot to mention that the under stairs cupboard also has the mains switchboard which I will have to access in case of any issue. What I will do is leave the door open fully and then set the tables. I have accounted for some space on the right hand wall due to the radiator so hopefully it should be fine or at the max, I might have to do minor adjustment to the table and layout. This should resolve the problem and would avoid any access issue and also fiddling with tracks and the layout once it is hammered on.
  6. Hi all, inspired by all the examples and ideas from other members on this thread, I have prepared the attached draft layout. I have tried to cover everything that my son was hoping for but also kept the mainline simple with 2 parallel ovals. There are no inclines or R1 curves. I have also kept the tracks on right top table to the minimum so that I can move that table with some but hopefully minimal fuss. The tracks in red need to be cut to enable removing the table. The idea is to use the GWR HST and Eurostar as mainline trains, Scotsman for connecting the branch line and Blue highlander as the goods carriage. I am open to any feedback or critique. It needs to work which is the most important and preferrable outcome.
  7. @RobinofLoxley, I am thinking of running the cables under the cork roll, and if needed create channels underneath. If it works then the turnouts on the dining table should not be an issue. All the tables are of the same height, but I will get those extenders on Amazon for any minute adjustments. Everything is on paper at the moment. I am sure I will face many challenges when I will start the model building. Keeping fingers crossed.
  8. @Chimer and @ITG, I see where you are coming from. I have still not finalised the layout yet. The ideas from other members on here is for inspiration and most likely I will end up with a much simpler version which will cover all or some of my son’s requests. I guess the real depth and dimension of any model is from the setting I.E diorama, village, people, road structure etc. So even if I end up with 2 parallel ovals, there is a lot that my son and I can enjoy by creating various scenarios. This is my thought process for now. @Chimer, my son is 6 years old but blame me for taking him to various model railway shows etc., that his expectations are far higher :) It is actually funny that he rather prefers pushing the trains on the track manually and making engine noises as opposed to using the controller. But I think he will get around to using the controller and turnout switches once we have a full model.
  9. @ITG, the plan is to run the wiring under the cork roll (4mm). I am not looking at a complicated wiring set-up. DC power to the tracks, turnouts and maybe a couple of street lights. This initial layout is an experiment and probably once I move to a permanent place, I will then draw upon this experience and maybe build something complex. Time will tell, though :)
  10. @Glob-Ally, do you mind sharing the plan with the part numbers please? Many thanks. I have come up with the attached baseboard plan by using the current dining table and getting 4 IKEA LINNMON table tops with additional legs. I plan to lay cork roll on top of the table to achieve a flat surface throughout and avoid drilling the tables. The nearer 70cm of the dining table is what I plan to utilize so that I would be able to access all the areas. There is enough space in the middle for both my son and I to sit/stand. The tables will be 70cm high so hopefully I should be able to crawl under. This removes the need for any lifting flat. And with the tables being standard size, I should be able to dismantle and re-fix them in the new house, when I move out of here. Only part I need to think about is access to the under stairs cupboard. It houses our jackets and travel bags. Will see how/what I do to achieve this.
  11. Thanks everyone for your replies. I got bogged down with work related travel but am back now and picking up the planning. I am exploring how to get the baseboard sorted. Will keep you aware how this goes. @Glob-Ally, this is brilliant. Seems to cover everything my son is looking for. I will assess how this layout fits in the actual space I will end up with, once the baseboards are sorted.
  12. Thanks @The Johnster, @RobinofLoxley, @ITG for your comments. So valuable and insightful. I get where you all are coming from. The only aspect I struggle with is creating a continous loop. The IKEA Lack tables are only 45cm high so there is no way I can crawl under it. Hence, I left that space at the bottom left for access. I know that 45cm is too low and will impact my back, but it is the perfect height for my son. @RobinofLoxley, are you able to share your draft layout with Hornby part numbers please? Many thanks again for taking the effort to design it.
  13. @RobinofLoxley, this is great work and inspiring. Many thanks. I have been fiddling with the ideas that I got here and came up with the below: 1. Use IKEA Lack tables to create the baseboard. These come in 2 sizes, 90cmX55cm and 55cmX55cm which can be fit around the room. I looked at laser cut kits but they are coming up too expensive for my needs. 2. Leave space at the bottom of the layout for physical access for my son and I. 3. Deeper top end to add depth to scenic. Now, based on the available working space, I did some work on AnyRail and came up with the attached layout. 1. Terminus at the bottom left for 4 trains. More than I need but my son can play getting the trains into various platforms. 2. One platform in the terminus to be dedicated to good delivery. 3. No 1st radius curves or gradients. I know there are 2 r604s in the plan but will have to swap them. 4. Enough scope for scenaries. Where I need your help and critique: 1. Does this layout work? Anything I should add or remove? Want to check before I move any further. 2. I tried various combinations but am unable to come up with the tracks coming into the terminus. What I would like is points so that any train on any track can get to any platform. 3. I have placed the turntable on the right bottom corner so that the engines can get into the shed. I am not 100% sure this is the best use of space. Any other ideas? Or can someone help with connecting the tracks to achieve the turntable function? I remain grateful for all the ideas I received so far. Don't think I can share the AnyRail file on here. This is my first ever layout from scratch so please be kind :)
  14. Thanks @RobinofLoxley, @Chimer, and @Harlequin. I drew a quick floor plan (attached). I will fiddle with AnyRail using these measurements and see how it goes. @RobinofLoxley, I sense my son likes "any rail with a nose" LOL so most likely era 11. But he likes a goods carriage too. It's never easy, is it :)
  15. Thanks @Harlequin. This is a great suggestion. On the other thread it was stated that you provide layout design as a service. I am keen to understand what that entails and how do I go about it please. Better than banging my head about on the details and use the first layout as a learning for future projects. Thanks.
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